GMC Yukon Small Problems and Aggravations

tidester

Radio knob missing? Glove compartment door stuck? Paint peeling? This is the place to discuss those problems and irritations that don't impact safety and operation of your Yukon.

tzrbug

I bought my '07 Yukon in June, clock has been missing for months now, Dealer has no info, can't find a fix online. Any help?? Thanks

greggboston

Have an MP3 disk in the CD player? Remove it, wait a while (an hour or less with the truck off) and viola the clock will reappear. Apparently if you have a disk with too many MP3's on it (there is a limit in the manual, it's somewhere around 300 songs I think) it takes the memory for the clock or kills the clock somehow. Don't worry the clock will return after the disk is removed. I have reproduced this a few times and now don't load a disk with lots of MP3s on it. It may take a little while after you install the disk for the clock to disappear. Let us know if this was the issue. GM probably needs a software update for the Nav radio to prevent this from occurring.

-- Gregg
Boston, Mass

pos07yukon

I have about 4000 miles on the vehicle. About one month after I bought it i was washing it one day and I had the radio on for about 45 minutes. I went to move the yukon and the battery was dead. I took it to the dealer where I had baught it from and they checked the alternator and battery and it all checked out fine. They told me they could not replace anything unless it tested bad. About a month later the same thing happen so I took it to another dealership and they also said they couldn't find nothing wrong with it. I payed 39000 dollars for the vehicle and I shouldn't have this problem with this yukon. Both times I made sure the key was in the auxillary position. Does anyone have any suggestion about my problem. Suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Dustin Harvey

awf_axis

I have an '07 Escalade, and have the similar issue. If you watch a movie (while in acc position), or just play the stereo for a CD or two, dead battery. Also, I was able to determine that if I press the "Load All CDs" option, but only load 1 or 2, the CD drive motor will keep running until the battery dies. (The "Load All" is when you hold the "Load CD" button down for 5 seconds, and it beeps. It keeps accepting CD after CD without re-pushing the button). Same for Eject, (without running down the battery). Pushing the Eject for 5 seconds will cause it to spit out all the CD's in one session.

Anyway, there must be something wrong with the computer's "run-down" protection, because it doesn't preserve the battery very well. Also, once a battery (starter type, not deep cycle) has been run down, it's reserve and life cycle is reduced greatly.

I have a feeling that the BOSE system, with AMP's is just too much for the battery system. It must draw a ton of juice.

I've now had 3 dead batteries, and 2 near failures. I used the GM roadside for one incident, while camping.

Dealer would not do anything about it. Also, it said the battery was not damaged enough for replacement. But its weak.

Dave

luv2skidoo

Hi folks, I just purchased this truck about a month ago and love it so far. I have noticed a strange popping sound that seems to be coming from the heater on two occasions now, almost like popping the lid off a can of pringles or something, has anyone else noticed this? thanks.

princetonriver

My '07 Denali RainSense windshield wiper does seem to work properly. Besides no adjustment on the level of sensitivity, it does not work consistently during driving under raining condition.

Does anyone have similar experience?

rsht

Dave, in all fairness, listen to a CD equates to about an hour of battery usage... When you have the ignition key turned to ACC, not only your Stereo system is on, but also all other electronic devices that are tied to that circuit are draining the battery as well. I am with you about the Battery Run Down Protection System can be improved, at the same time we can do a number of things on our own to save ourselves hassles. Best Wish.

Oh BTW, the batteries that are in our cars are generally not Deep Cycle batteries, so, a few discharge and recharge cycles will decrease a battery life by a huge percentage.

rsht

princetonriver, my 07 Yukon Denali RainSense at first had the same problem like your's, not working consistently. I later found out the problem was with the Rain Sensor Unit (a small black square box next to the center rearview mirror) was loose, not tightly against the windshield. It was caused (sorry I am not sure how to describe this exactly... but here I go) by the loose plastic "slider", which can be pushed Up in to (or dwon from) the overhead lining to secure the sensor again the windshield. After I done that, the system has been working 99.9%. As far as the sensitivity adjustment, I thought its related to the wiper delay (interval) adjustment, the shorter the delay interval the more sensitive it is... I could be wrong as I only had my Denali for a couple of weeks, still in my "smelling the new car" period, LOL. Hope your's is as easy to fix as mine, good luck!

lmg0910

I have the exact same battery problem with my 2007 Yukon and I bought it in June. We had this problem the day we brought it home. We were listening to the radio for only about 20 minutes (with the key out of the ignition) and when we went to start the car, it was dead. GM roadside sent someone out to jump start it (after waiting about an hour), but we have had this exact problem at least 4 times since then up to about a week ago. The dealer replaced the battery, but that did not seem to fix the problem. We are afraid to turn the car off sometimes because we do not know if it will turn back on. (The car still dies after less than 20 minutes of battery use, and sometimes even no real use of the battery). This really is a great car, and many other people that have it have little to no problems, but the amount of problems we have had since June with our car is really worrying me. :lemon:

Whenever the car "dies" and we jump start it to get it back going, the check engine light, transmission, and tire pressure monitoring system all show failures. One of the times this happened, we did an OnStar remote diagnostics by pressing our blue OnStar button. They saw all of the problems the car was reporting to me, and more. When we took the car to the dealer the next day, the failure lights eventually turned off. Luckily OnStar sent the dealer a report of what was going wrong with the car (because the car was now reporting no issues). The dealer, however, was not able to find anything wrong with the vehicle, even with the OnStar report. When we were supposed to pick the car up at 4:00 PM that day, they went to start the car and could not get it to start. They then replaced the battery, which seemed promising, but we still have the same problem.

The people at the dealership right now are doing all they can do. The service person I work with told me that this may be an issue with using remote start (because he said that drains the battery). -- My kind response to that is - 1. we rarely ever use remote start, and 2. remote start is something that is built into the car by GM, so it should be serviced by them. If there is a problem with the remote start system in the cars they put it in, they need to fix the problem and recall all of the cars that have it.

The remote start was not an add on, it came directly from the factory. Blaming the problem on remote start is almost like blaming something on cruse control. I mean, you can drive with your foot on the peddle as much as you can turn on your car with the key in the ignition -- but why not put cruse control on, or start the car remotely from your key chain? These were all installed by the manufacturer, so they should support any and all issues with it.

If anybody from GM is reading this, why not address any and all major issues with your 2007 Yukon, Suburban, Escalade, and Tahoe now before they are even bigger issues in the 2008 and later models.

We have 3 newer GM SUV's right now, but because of the experiences we have had with the 2007 Yukon (in customer service at our original dealership- which we have now left, our new dealer is ok - and with the vehicle itself), this will be our last one until some issues are resolved.

mbailey2

I have a 01 YUKON XL that has a ghost in the electrical system. The locks randemly lock and unlock on their own while driving and parked. The factory alarm or panic system will occationally go off as well and will do so for hours. The keyless remote has not been unlocking the secondary doors at times and will only unlock the drivers. I pulled the battery from the remote to see if there was a problem with that and the problem still persisted. Does anyone have any suggestions? I do have an extended warrenty but Im unclear if it will cover this issue.

rsht

Electrical problems are not always easy to locate. I would suggest if your 01 Yukon is with all OEM equipment (no add-on after market devices) the sooner you bring it back to your GMC Service Department the better, as your extended warranty is ticking away each day goes by... Good Luck!

patshe

We have a 97 gmc yukon, great vehicle until lately. We are on our second battery in 6 wks. when we try to start the vehicle it is absolutely dead. when you open the door to get in to try to start it, there is a faint ticking sound the moment you open the door, without the key in the ignition. the ignition switch appears to be in the off position, we don't find that lights have been left on, sometimes a jump start works but only once and at that time we must replace the battery. someone must know what is shorting out our batteries. our mechanic says the alternator and starter checkout fine. the cd player recently stopped working, gives an "err" message when we try to play cd's. any suggestions?

gmcguy03

unlocking front doors, & not the back 2 or hatch? I had it too. I checked the fuses in the drivers end of the dash & there is 2 square black small block looking fuses.One is for locking, & other for unlock. I swapped them with each other, & there it was. Dont change just one, it worked for 2 or 3 days. Change both & enjoy the back opening again, lol. I was frustrated. Oreilly had the fuse for 15.00 a piece, where Autozone was 28.00 a piece. Good luck buddy!

mcj318

I also have experienced this problem in my 2007 Denali. After letting my 3mo XM satellite radio expire, I was renewing, which requires the radio to run for 15-20 min while the satellite sends info to my vehicle. After about 20 min with radio on (key out of ignition)I tried to start my vehicle and it was a no go. Totally dead battery. Lucky I was just in driveway and was able to put charger on battery. Took to dealer and battery tested OK. Told me about all the electronics that run with key in ACC, which I was aware of. Only problem is that only radio was on (I even turned the fan off) with key out of ignition. Since, I have experimented with how long the battery will last before dying. Seems like 15-20 min will do it. Obviously the run down protection system is worthless since the thing won't even turn over with 15 min of radio listening. If anyone has had a smart dealer mechanic figure out what the problem is or come up with a good solution to the problem (other than not listening to the radio) please post. This is very annoying and would really stink if it happened somewhere other than my driveway. I also now have a battery that likely is weak, but not weak enough to test bad at the dealer. I'm just waiting for it to go out in the middle of my next family vacation. Mark

rsht

There has been a recall by GM with ID #07007, which is about the Battery Rundown Protection basically to re-program the on-board BCM and a number of other modules on your Denali. I had mine done by my dealership, it only took about an hour. You may want to have your's done if not already, so you can verify the fix before your next family vacation. Best Wish!!

mcj318

Thanks for the info, it is going in ASAP for the "fix" (hopefully). The dealership should have caught this recall the first time around. It is nice to go in armed with info this time around.

rsht

No problem.
Below is the exact description of the fix on my recall service receipt (just found it in my folder last night...):
PERFORM CAMPAIGN #07007
PROGRAM BCM, RCDLR & RKE MODULES PER RECALL
VERIFY BATTERY VOLTAGE AND CONDITION.

Not sure if you are a registered member of the "My GMLink". If you register (totally free) then enter your Yukon VIN number, it will tell you about any existing recall for your particular vehicle. The register, visit:

https://www.mygmlink.com/main/US/en/gm/home

krjhomes2007

I'm glad to hear I'm not the only one who thinks this Yukon is crap. I purchased my truck in October 2006 and since I have jumped started it 5 times, everything rattles in it. The back panel on the lift gate is coming completely a part and for some reason the radio, onstar system, dvd player door chimes etc. stop working at various times. I have gone to the dealership over and over to be told everything checks out fine. I will never buy GM AGAIN. The sad part is the dealership does not seem to be too concerned. I have gone to 2 dealerships only to be told "The battery is good" and the radio works. Does anyone know why this is happening(battery and shortage on radio/onstar/dvd)? There are no recalls in Houston, Texas related to these problems

K. Johnson

wbmcowan

I had the recall done on my 2007 yukon xl after it wouldn't start and the rear cargo door would not open. 3 weeks later it has done the same thing. Both times I have had it towed to a dealer. The first time it happened the vehicle had be shut off and locked for 30 minutes. The second time it was shut off for 4 minutes. Rear cargo door won't open and the vehicle will not start. I have a hard time believing the battery went dead in that period of time with no acc. on.

nortonjco

Hi,

I have an 02 Yukon with a very similar problem.. Did you ever get yours fixed? If so, can you tell me what they/you found and how you fixed it?

Thank you

rsht

Oh wow! Sorry to hear that. I spoke with my dealership about your encounter of the situations after your recall repair... I was told that the re-programming of the modules may not have done correctly/properly (the mechanic needs to make sure that the re-programming was accepted and done successfully by the on-board modules, otherwise he/she needs to re-program the modules again...).

midas1

We are the owners of a 2005 Yukon SLT. We absolutely love it. The DVD player works flawlessly but the wireless headphones don't. The video continues to play but the headphones quick working after ~5mins. I have replaced the batteries in the headphones and tried again. But Both sets of wireless headphones quite at exactly the same time...after a few minutes. I am suspecting it may be a problem with the infra red message being sent out from the DVD player. I am hoping someone else has figured out or at least encountered this problem before. Please send a response if you can shed some light on this problem. Thanks to all.

smiller65

Dustin,
I had the same exact problem and took it to the dealer and got the same answers. I fixed the problem though. I replaced the stock battery with a DieHard SUV battery that has twice the amps as the stock battery. I have yet to have this problem arise again. Also if you really want to beef up you battery problem, the 2007 yukon is set up to carry 2 batteries, an addition area is the flat metal battery plate on the drivers side. You can purchse a cable kit which is around $50 which runs the batteries in paralles. This space was put her because gmc has plans to place a diesel engine which require more amps to start. I havn't put this on mine but my neighbor is a fire chief with the same vehicle and was outfitted with the second battery. He has been able to run the stereo and all of the emergency lights for over 4 hours with the engine off.

Hope this helps.

Steve Miller

jvcii

My 2000 Yukon's ignition is locked and the security light is blinking. The steering wheel is locked and the key will not turn in the ignition. How do I get the security system to disengage so that I can turn the key in the ignition and start the car? This latest issue is the worst of a string of related problems.

The wireless opener failed a long time ago. Then, I could not open any car doors with the key - except the hatch. When I opened the hatch, the alarm would sound but I could start the car with the key and it would turn off. The mechanic fixed the car so that the driver's side door would open with the key but the alarm would sound. This wasn't so bad since I could start the car with the key and disengage the alarm. Over the last month the horn failed. Now I have this problem. A quick response would really help, since I don't want to pay to have the car towed. Thanks.

jumms

Denali. It came with xm radio Navigation system, but the cd did not come with it. Is there a way for me to get the for cheaper than what I would have to pay from the dealership?

Thanks,
Maurice

brewboy

Your best bet is on Ebay, I got mine for $90 after the dealership told me $600. Also you can check www.gmnavdisc.com or www.GMPartsDirect.com

agholden

Steve - What can you tell me about the cable kit to run the batteries in parallel ?
Where'd he find it? Homemade or pre-packaged? etc. Thanks.

I asked at the dealership's service department today about the problem - they agreed that battery use life is short, but the parts department said GM had no auxiliarly battery set-up or adaptor kit.

Arnie.

smiller65

Arnie,
Sorry to get back to you late on this one. The kits can be purchased online or can easily be fabbed up at most custom car shops. The kits online are usually sold for RV's since they pull a lot of amps. I looked online and had a hard time finding one. Here is how the wiring system went. A second battery is added on the right side where the flat plate is at. The bracket that holds down the stock battery can be made to fit here to hold a second battery which you can purchase the bracket at the dealer.(Even though a kit is not sold for the dual battery you can hold it down here) A red positive cable is run from the second batterys positive terminal to the primary battery (stock one) positive terminal. A black negetive cable is run from the secondary battery's negetive terminal to the primary battery's negetive terminal. The original primary negetive lead cable then is spliced and re-run to connect to the secondary batteries negetive terminal. This type of wiring system can be installed at some car audio stores because some stereos require a lot of power to run everything. Unless you are an electrician I would recommend taking it somewhere to make sure it is wired correctly.

Steve

agholden

Steve - Thanks ! In the meantime I've checked around and found that there are a number of ways to solve the problem. Your approach sounds good. There are a number of isolator systems too, from good ol' JCWhitney to high-end systems with indicator lights and toggles. And then I could just pay the bucks and go to a gell-coil (Optima) battery.
Haven't decided what to do yet; right now I'm just making sure the lights are off and the key is out.
Thanks again.

Arnie

mlongoria501

I have an 03 Yukon and the ignition switch at times seems to be sticking.
When you first start the vehicle and you turn it over and then let the ignition key
turn back to the original position the starter is still turning over. Happens at
least twice a week. It will stop and then you can turn the key over again and the engine will start. Can anyone help me with this?

21ert11

I hope I get some constructive feedback as the dealerships service is lacking in some areas. I do like this vehicle but the problems are, the headlights flicker usually when going around sweeping lefthand turns, 40 mph or more. This isn't more than 5 miles per hour over the speed limit so it's not like I'm pushing the vehicle beyond it's limits. They also flicker when going over rough roads, this isn't as noticable as the sweeping turn problem. I've had the truck in for service, they replaced one of the headlight brackets and it helped some. But the problem is still there. I had the service dude drive it one night and he didn't notice anything, not surprised. So here I am with a light issue that I really want to put behind me.
Another issue is when driving up my driveway in icy conditions the headlights again flicker and also when I break and the antilock breaks kick in. I mentioned this to service and the response was, the vehicle is getting hit with a 30 amp surge and this is normal. Come on, I'm sure this is not normal and this would have been figured in as the vehicle was being constructed.
Plus I'd like to know where I can get a replacement knob for the radio.
Hope you can help.

agholden

I am a real expert on these things because I listen to "Car Talk" on the radio at least 6 times a year.
My guess is that you have a short that only comes into play when the vibration, or side force, on the vehicle brings something (probably a wire, probably with worn insulation), into contact with the frame or body (or maybe another wire).
I'd say follow the wire back from headlight (do both flicker, or just one side? on low beams or high?). A wiring diagram in the shop manual will help you find the color of the wire(s) you're looking for. Look for any bare wire. Then tape it.
--- Good luck. Electrical problems can drive you nuts! Arnie

nuttydriver

Could start and drive the Yukon as long as it was driven every day. If I let it sit for a day or two, the battery would die. After trips to several mechanics and dealers and several batteries, I (not a mechanic) discovered that the vanity light on the sun visor was coming on and staying on! It's not easily noticed. After the light was disconnected, the problem went away. I too had mechanics use test equipment and was told "we found nothing wrong". These days it seems mechanics can't fix anything unless test equipment tells them what's wrong. I sure wish I could find a real mechanic.

I'm posting this because I looked for a solution on the Internet and found people were not getting help from dealers and they were also adding equipment in order to keep their batteries from going dead. I hope this post helps somebody save a few bucks.

sffullmoon

I have a 2007 Yukon (purchased 9/06) with factory installed remote start. Until recently the car would respond to the keyfob from about 100 ft. Now it will only respond when you are within 5 ft of the car. This happens with both keyfobs. I have replaced the keyfob battery (which the manual says should last 4 years) but have gotten no improvement. This kind of makes having remote start useless if I have to go out in the cold to make it work.

Any ideas?

rsht

Have you tried it at different locations? In my case with an EX-car of ours, any time within ~5-6 miles of our near-by mall parking lot, our remote controller becomes useless until we are about 4-5 ft away from the car. We later found out the cause was a new radio towel with RF interference... FYI, the 2007 Yukon Remote Control Start Antenna and assembly is located at the Driver side rear D-piler near the tailgate. You may want to check the connections there...

rsht

Have you tried it at different locations? In my case with an EX-car of ours, any time within ~5-6 miles of our near-by mall parking lot, our remote controller becomes useless until we are about 4-5 ft away from the car. We later found out the cause was a new radio towel with RF interference... FYI, the 2007 Yukon Remote Control Start Antenna and assembly is located at the Driver side rear D-piler near the tailgate behind the interior molding. You may want to check the connections there...

bigchuckwagon

The Keyless Entry feature on my 2007 Yukon XL has quit working correctly. I've changed to the spare keyfob and made sure that the DIC was programmed to original factory settings. Neither tactic helped.
The entrance door must be opened manually......but once inside, the keyfob will actuate the Keyless Entry system (it'll unlock or lock the doors). When I park the Yukon, the Keyfob will lock the doors as I leave......but will fail to unlock the doors if I'm gone for more than a minute or two. In other words, the system fails if I don't use the Keyfob for a minute or two. So long as I actuate the Keyfob every 15-seconds, it'll keep on working. Anybody got ideas?

rkg1

Anyone have problems with those plastic covers that are used to cover the bottom of the seat frames? Ours all seem to be coming off.

1)We have one that covers the floor frame of the seat on the center row (between the seat that folds down behind the passenger side) and the center seat. It kept coming loose and we took it out. Now my kids catch their feet on the exposed bolts.

2) There's a large plastic cover that was on the floor below the seat, (behind the driver) that my kids tripped over everytime they got in and out of the car. The cover looks like it was meant to cover the seat floor bolts. Anyway, now it's thrown in the back of the car with all the other plastic covers that are coming off.

3)I had one under my driver seat that came loose, and would get stuck whenever I moved the seat forward/reverse.. i finally took that out too.

Anyone else have this problem??

bubblebass

04 Yukon XL. Had the battery problem thing that was fixed a year ago. What a pain!

Anyway....the voice that comes on when you put it in reverse just stopped working one day. About once every 2 months it comes on now for no apparent reason.

Then last week, it beeps exactly 20 times when I first start it in the morning. Not the same as when the door is open, but a loud BEEP coming from around the cluster area. Does this every morning now. ??? Ideas?

brewboy

I have a 2007 Yukon Denali and both of the front dash power outlet (cig lighter) plastic covers broke off the first time I used them to put my cell-phone power cord in. The dealer wont fix under warranty and says its abuse! I see many others broken off on Tahoes, Yukons and Avalanches. Has anyone else had this problem? If so does anyone know of a TSB on them as they are a very poor design.

hovmatic

i have a 02 denali and i wanted to if any one knew where to get that small piece of the side molding that is by the back wheel and back pass side door on the bottom.the dealer wants $115 for it n its not even painted.so if anyone know a store/website that sells this plz post lol thx.

rsht

Not sure if the place below carries just that one small piece, you may have to call them to find out; otherwise, hove you checked with your local salvage yard? Good Luck!

http://www.car-stuff.com/store/?D=molding&Ntt=molding&Dx=mode+matchallpartial&Nt- k=Main&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&N=1623+4294967263+10570&Nty=1

tampapi

I have a 2007 Yukon that I bought in March 2007. From the beginning, I have had dead battery problems and the dealer has been unable to fix the problem.

The problems I am having are:

1) The CD/Nav disk motor constantly runs. No matter how long the vehicle has been off, the disk motor can be heard running or reading the disk. Dealers says this is normal. But wouldn't that run the battery down?

2) I have a home office, so I do not drive the truck every day. It would not be out of ordinary to have the truck sit for two or three days without being driven. Now keep in mind that I unplug all cell phone chargers, radar detectors etc, so there is nothing drawing current except for the CD motor. After just one day, the battery will die.

3) The battery meter in the dash is all over the place. A correct reading should be just about 14. Mine will read down around 7, then jump up to 12, then back down to 3 or 4 and abck up to 14 or 15.

While the vehicle was in for normal maintance last year, they replaced the battery under a recall. I did not know this until yesterday when I dropped the truck off at the GMC dealer. The advisor told me that they already replaced the battery, so there shouldn't be any issues. After working on the truck all day, all they could do was replace the battery again. Guess what? Went out this morning, battery was nearly drained already. The CD motor is still running of course. There is no DVD/CD in, just the NAV disk.

Carl Black GMC in Sarasota has no idea what could be wrong. They have tested everything and get normal readings.

Anyone experiencing this problem and has anyone figured out why?

And I see someone posted about the cig plug covers. Yes, mine broke off the first week I had the truck. Never bothered to get new ones since I'm sure they will just break off too. Plus it's a lease, so if they want to replace them when I return the vehicle, fine.

agholden

It's broke. Make 'em fix it.

The engine-off electrical system is pathetic. I've had to jump my 2007 Yukon four times because of doors left open, radio played, ice chest pluged in - all for absurdly short lengths of time. I always check at the dealer's service department, and GM still has no remedy, though they're apparently beginning to notice the problem.

However - mine does not go dead just sitting (like 2 weeks at the airport). Yours is not right. I'm sure they'd like to fix it if you ask nicely (or threaten to terminate the lease.).

Good luck.

rsht

"The CD/Nav disk motor constantly runs" is not right. Mine shuts totally off as soon as I open my driver side door (with the ignition key already turned off of course). Perhaps ask your service department to double check the CD's wiring? I have an 07 Denali, I must say that I have been very lucky, it can sit in my garage for 3 weeks (the longest I have ever tried - due to an over sea business trip) and still starts just fine when I got back.

BTW, has your Yukon been through the recall service called "BCM Reprogramming for Battery Drain"? When I had mine done just more than a year ago, my service department also reprogrammed the the RCDLR and RKE Modules...

cch2

I am having the same problem with our 2007 yukon. Have you been able to find the problem?

tampapi

I just called the dealer and asked if they did the BCM - they said yes, it was done during my last oil change earlier this year. However, they did not repro the RCDLR. Since you mentioned it, I did some research and see that this was a big issue on the Vette and Tahoe, but I didn't see a bulletin regarding the Yukon.

I called them back and they said they were not instructed to repro the RCDLR on the Yukons. They didn't understand what it would have to do with the battery run-down issue. But from what I'm reading, it's more of a software issue. Do you think I should make them do this?

I was under the impression we have run-down protection anyway, so if something such as the disk motor is running, why isn't the run-down protection kicking in?

rsht

When I visited my dealership for the BCM re-program, they told me that since I was there and there is a newer version of the software available they might just as well re-program the RCDLR all in one visit. I am not all that sure what each re-programming does and to what extend the sensitivity level in the new software is (if at all different/adjusted from the previous version) as far as detecting the electrical drain and etc... All I can tell you, since the re-programming, I have not experienced any issue with the battery running out of juice, even I have parked my 07 Denali for 3 consecutive weeks.

tampapi

What does your battery meter in the dash read normally? Before they did the re-program, were you experiencing flucuations in your meter? From what I understand the normal reading should be around 15 volts. Mine has been resting at around 11/12 but will flucuate down toward 9 volts. When I'm stopped, it will go lower, when I'm moving - especially on the interstate, it will go back up to 15. So there is obviously an issue with the output from the alt. Did you experience any of this?

tampapi

I just found another message on the board regarding the CD reading noise I've been hearing - I think this pretty much explains that issue, so I don't think that has anything to do with my battery running down.

#10 of 50 What's the noise I hear when I open the door? by 10mikeymike Jul 25, 2007 (3:46 pm) Save | Reply
I just took delivery of a new 07 Yukon Denali. It has the navigation system and every time I open the door, I hear a faint sound like an autofocus camera focusing. The only thing I can think it is would be the navigation system rreading the disc, but the vehicle isn't running. Has anyone else noticed this?

Replies to this message:
valvestud (Jul 25, 2007 7:25 pm)
mikestgerm (Dec 08, 2007 2:59 pm)
gaserup (Feb 22, 2008 9:06 pm)

#11 of 50 Re: What's the noise I hear when I open the door? [10mikeymike] by valvestud Jul 25, 2007 (6:25 pm) Save | Reply
Replying to: 10mikeymike (Jul 25, 2007 4:46 pm)

Anytime you open a door on the vehicle when it's been sitting for some time, the NAV unit spins up and gets ready to do it's thing. It will also run for a while after shutdown.