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Honda Odyssey Engine Problems



  • yeekyeek Posts: 18
    I have a 2010 EX-L with 1500 miles on it. Noticed when weather is in the 90s, the engine makes a weird moaning noise at 1800 to 2100 RPMs. Noise pulses in a pattern as if something is going in and out of phase. 2 seconds of noise, 7 seconds no noise, 2 seconds of noise , 30 seconds no noise- repeat. Doesn't matter what gear it's in, or if ECO light is on or not. Even between moaning noises, engine seems much noisier. In the evening, when weather is cooler, noise goes away. Haven't called the dealer yet. Wanted to know if anybody knows what this is. Also, need a really hot day for dealer to experience it.
  • dougsunnydougsunny Posts: 1
    2003 Odyssey 160 K miles has begun to act up. After engine gets warm and when driving in city (lots of stops) the normally smooth idle 1100 rpm will progressively increase between each stop from an idle point of 1100 rpm to higher levels up 1500 2800. This forces me to go to neutral at EACH stop when it happens. Two out of town trips were cut short.

    I have observed the cruise control throttle cable not retracting 100% and have tightened up the cable as it was a bit loose.

    Honda service looked at it twice. $550 in the hole later they say spend $650 and replace the throttle body. Sounds reasonable to me if the idle was rough or ramping up or down....

    Please respond if you have heard of this happening. - Thanks
  • I have a similar problem with my 2002 Odyssey EX - very high idle in stop-and-go traffic, usually in hot weather. The idle progressively increases from 700 rpm to 1700+ rpm. The idle drops back to normal when the driving conditions return to normal. I have spent $100's over the past few years with mechanic diagnostics, but no solution yet. Latest failed fix was replacing the power steering pressure switch, which was solution recommended by another poster.

    OHare Honda dealer service has not experienced this problem. HELP!
  • bobcop9bobcop9 Posts: 1
    I'm having the same problem with the engine revving to very high idle on hot days. Have replaced the idle air control valve but the problem seems to have gotten worse in that the rpms now go to about 3000-4000 rpm. Debating replacing the throttle body (complete) as there is a sensor of some type on there and another electonic control that you can't buy seperate from the entire throttle body. I will look at the power steering sensor/wire but don't think that is the problem. This problem definetly is linked to heat. does anyone out there have any stories that actually report a permanent solution?
  • Hi - wondering if your case was ever solved.... Our 2005 Odyssey burned to the ground on the side of the interstate last week. We had just started out on our vacation and was just a few minutes from home. No word yet from fire inspector.
  • ilwu23ilwu23 Posts: 5
    No!!!!!!!! They still deny anything is wrong. Starting to think it my be tranny.

    Sorry to hear yours caught fire. Do you know where it started?
  • vsalvsal Posts: 4
    I had similar issues with the manifold exploding when I started the engine. The problem was attributed to a leaky fuel injector. I have since replaced all my fuel injectors and have not had any issues.
  • I have a beloved 1995 Honda Odyssey 4 cylinder 168k miles. Recently on 100 degree days when it idles for 15 minutes or so you start to smell fuel real strong outside which ends up inside if sitting still. I haven't noticed any leaking gas on ground, nor does it smell like gas when I make a short trip, or basically anytime it doesn't idle I don't smell fuel. I need to fix because I know it can't be good for my 3 babies 4 & under and their developing bodies. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated because my husband wants to get something else :cry:
  • orestorest Posts: 1
    Was running fine everything worked pulled into the driveway turned car of went inside for 5 mins came back to start it nothing... it cranks over good, battery is new figured out gas is running to injectors but seems they arnt working spark plugs are dry after cranking for a minute. could it be something with computer or what i need help
  • the Idle Control Valve needs a thorough checking, may even need replacement to make the car working and running smoothly again.
  • hondaodd2010hondaodd2010 Posts: 2
    edited November 2010
    I have the same exact car. When it's hot like that @ 90 degrees the cooling fan on the Radiator comes on to cool the engin off in Idel when you have the A.C. on. I don't see this issue when I am driving for sure !
  • I have a 2010 Touring model with 12K. I drove 400 miles to Northern Virginia, my check engine light started to blink and the VSA warning light came on. I took it to Miller Honda in Winchester. I believe all they did was reset the computer. When I pulled out everything worked. The following morning I only had power on three cylinders. I shut off the engine, turned it back on and had full power. 10 miles later the check engine light started flashing again and the VSA came on. It was Sunday so I couldn't go to the dealer. I started for home on Monday. No flashing lights. At 88 miles into my trip the check engine light came on, but did not flash. In the next 312 miles I never went into economy mode. Took the van to Hendrick Honda in Charlotte. They worked on it, checked for foul plugs and did a computer update. The van ran fine for 16 miles. Same flashing engine light and VSA. It has been at the dealer for two days with no solution. Any ideas??
  • Just wondering if you had any solution to the engines odd RPM while driving speeds? I have that problem with my 2000 odyssey and its typically slower speeds while in overdrive usually no more then 45 mph. It stops when I move to D3. Thanks
  • My daughter has a 2006 Honda Odessey. It all of sudden started rough and idling at 3000 rpm. We took it in and they work on it for weeks trying to find the problem. First they changed the oil pump as it was showing an 80 psi. The 2nd go round they changed the ECM thinking that may be the problem. Nope, still run rough and idled high. Then they found a problem. The spill valve was staying open. They changed the spill valve filter and she now runs better than before. The cost of all this was just over 900. Thank You Honda! Job well done.
  • Just thought this might help some who are having problems with rpm problems. My daughters 2006 honda Odessey was running rough and idiling at 3000 rpm. The Tech found the Spill or Spool Valve filter was clogged. Once they changed the filter, it is running better than before.

    VTEC, the original Honda variable valve control system, originated from REV (Revolution-modulated valve control) introduced on the CBR400 in 1983 known as HYPER VTEC. In the regular four-stroke automobile engine, the intake and exhaust valves are actuated by lobes on a camshaft. The shape of the lobes determines the timing, lift and duration of each valve. Timing refers to an angle measurement of when a valve is opened or closed with respect to the piston position (BTDC or ATDC). Lift refers to how much the valve is opened. Duration refers to how long the valve is kept open. Due to the behavior of the working fluid (air and fuel mixture) before and after combustion, which have physical limitations on their flow, as well as their interaction with the ignition spark, the optimal valve timing, lift and duration settings under low RPM engine operations are very different from those under high RPM. Optimal low RPM valve timing, lift and duration settings would result in insufficient filling of the cylinder with fuel and air at high RPM, thus greatly limiting engine power output. Conversely, optimal high RPM valve timing, lift and duration settings would result in very rough low RPM operation and difficult idling. The ideal engine would have fully variable valve timing, lift and duration, in which the valves would always open at exactly the right point, lift high enough and stay open just the right amount of time for the engine speed in use.

    VTEC was initially designed to increase the power output of an engine to 100 PS/liter or more while maintaining practicality for use in mass production vehicles. Some later variations of the system were designed solely to provide improvements in fuel efficiency, or increased power output as well as improved fuel efficiency. In practice, a fully variable valve timing engine is difficult to design and implement.

    The opposite approach to variable timing is to produce a camshaft which is better suited to high RPM operation. This approach means that the vehicle will run very poorly at low RPM (where most automobiles spend much of their time) and much better at high RPM. VTEC is the result of an effort to marry high RPM performance with low RPM stability.
  • Here is the URL to the VTEC System Summary (Variable Valve Timing and Lift Electronic Control)
  • Good Read. My daughters 2006 honda Odessey was running rough and idiling at 3000 rpm. The Tech found the Spill or Spool Valve filter was clogged. They had changed out the Oil Pump and the ECM only to find it was a filter problem with the Spill or Spool Valve.Once they changed the filter, it is running better than before.
  • you dont need the throttle body [non-permissible content removed].... all you need is the idle control valve and make sure that you radiator is full since this valve is control by the temperature of the coolant
  • I have an 03 Acura cl type s M/T, with Identical problems as you do. The worst events I had is @ 6000 rpms. changed EGR, Idle sensor, O2's. no effect.
    did you resolve yours?
  • I have a 2011 Odyssey with 16K miles with a similar incident. I was traveling for the first time in the Blue Ridge Mountain area. The engine light came on, would not accelerate... The dealership says it's a failed spool valve. I picked it up today. Honestly, I don't want to keep the van now. When you spend 30K+ for a vehicle, the last thing you want is to be stranded and having it towed...especially when it's less than a year old.

    I hope you have better luck.
  • About three years ago when the engine would get warm it would start knocking or tapping when it got warm. Now it does it all the time. When you rev the engine it gets louder until about 2000 rpms when it blend in with the engine noise. When you are waiting at a stop light you can hear it. It is on the passenger side and I do not know it is is the power steering or the valves need aqdjusting. Any help to figure it our would be helpful.
  • wilkerwilker Posts: 1
    While driving along smoothly, why did my 2007 Honda Odyssey spit out the middle front spark plug and coil? It has 70000 miles on it and no one has ever removed or replaced the plugs.

    Mechanic checked other plugs - all were in tight. Put coil in head (in place) and replaced plug.
  • Hi, I've got an 06 Odyssey with excessive valve racket on one or two valves, but the noise stops @ 2500-2600 rpm on the way up and starts @ the same rpm on the way down. Does the spool valve activate the VTEC @ a set rpm or does it vary according to engine load. Once VTEC engages is it possible that it would eliminate the noise?
  • zarcyzarcy Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 Odyssey with 116k miles. It's the 6 cylinder model. While driving suddenly the Malfunction Indicator Lamp started flashing and the engine started running bad. The check engine lamp and on as well as the TCS. We scanned the codes and came up with seven. P0300, 301, 303, 304, 305, 306 and P1399. Cleared the codes, started the engine and it still was misfiring, no light immediately. We erased the codes, drove it 10 feet and the lights came back on, except the TCS. Read the codes, got 5 this time - P0300, 303, 305, 306 and P1399.

    When we opened it up, there was evidence of a mouse nest under the cover, but can't find any evidence of them chewing on anything. We are guessing it's something they did or maybe it's just bad plugs. (Due to be replaced anyway.) We don't think it's likely it's the ignition control module.

    Any guesses, theories or ideas?
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