Honda Civic Brake Questions
sramachandran
Member Posts: 6
in Honda
Hi- I have a new 2007 Honda Civic. I have a question regarding the brakes. When I press/release the brake, sometimes, I hear a mechanical noise. This typically happens when I'm waiting down a slope, and release the brake slowly. (Somewhere near the half play position). The noise comes from the front. Is it normal because of the disk brakes/ABS?
Thanks.
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I noticed another possible problem with the brakes. Right after I start the car and start driving, brakes booster does not seem to work for the first 5~10 seconds. After that everything is back to normal. Did any body else notice this?
Turning rotors is commonly done every-other brake job or when they need it (pulsing/slight grab of the brakes on gentle stops indicates warped rotors).
I used to "clean" the glaze off of my rotors and pads when I noticed grabbing instead of assuming they were warped, but newer metallic pads don't seem to have this problem. Glazing really makes 'em grab! metallics tend to increase warpage, tho.
do you brake with you left foot? This is a common cause of premature brake wear, since there is a tendency (albeit unintentional) to let the foot rest ever-so-slightly on the pedal.
Aftermarket performance oriented brakes are generally much better, but usually noisier (from a little to a lot) and often produce more brake dust, since there is often no such thing as a free lunch. I've been pretty happy with PBR/Axxis ultimates (fade critical at 1000 degrees), but they also make a premium line that offers slightly better than OEM performance for almost no penalty over OEM pads. Other companies like Hawk, also make pads like the HPS (fade critical around 800 degrees), but I've put these on family member vehicles and noticed the warpage issue, especially after the Folks moved from Kansas, with few hills, to N. Kentucky with lots of hills that require a lot of braking.
$41.00 a set.
also definitely bleed the entire brake system, get that old fluid out of there if it hasn't been changing in awhile.
Most rotors can be turned to remove the warp. Some newer ones are made too thin to be turned and must be replaced, but that is more common for rears which wear slower. Even if you don't need to have it turned, when you replace the pads you should at least remove the glazing that forms on the surface. Just the glazing can cause noise, sticking and squealing. I remove it with a fine sandpaper.
Make sure the pads and rotors are compatible, some rotors (solid in particular) just don't like metallic or semi-metallic pads.
You just may need to get some better rotors, solid rotors are the cheapest available, weight less (=higher mileage) but are more prone to warp; ventilated rotors are a major step up. They will cost more but should last longer. Avoid slotted or drilled, they're mostly for show on a Civic and just cost more.
Replace the rotors and upgrade to a high quality pad. I like Axxis/PBR Ultimates, but the XBG are probably a little more street-friendly. They can take the heat generated by having too much front weight bias and too little front brake for the vehicle weight. I dislike Hawk HPS intensely because they a not much better than stock and they never seem to fit right (i.e., you have a hard time using the OEM brake shims with them).
Replace your brake fluid too. Valvoline Synthetic DOT3/DOT4 is very good for the money and c an take the heat generated by the brake system so long as you change it the recommended two-year interval. Lubricate the slider pins on the calipers, as sometimes these get stuck and make the brakes hotter than normal, warping them.
I just re-read your post and I would note that the rear ratcheting calipers that act as parking brakes sometimes act up and stick, reducing their effectiveness. You may need to replace them and you can buy remanufactured calipers just about anywhere and these, IME, are the same as what the Honda Part Dept. will sell you, but for more money.
Another suggestion is that you replace all four sets of pads with same compound as this will increase rear brake bias, since Honda uses a less aggressive pad in the rear. Why? Because front biased brakes are generally safer than those that are more balanced, but Honda leaves too much on the table and you can pick up a little better braking with no loss of safety by using the same compound on all four corners.
Solid rotors and pad material compatibility is a new one for me. Never had a problem. Where I have had an issue is using two different brake compounds on the same rotor. Brakes work mostly by adherent friction rather than abrasive friction and this requires a layer of pad material to be deposited on the rotor face, which is where the conflict in compounds comes in.
I wouldn't even think it would be possible to get solid front rotors for this car, just ventilated. The rear rotors are only going to be solid.
I would advise the poster with the '94 Civic to also be careful about breaking in his rotors and pads carefully and according to manufacturer directions to get best life and performance from them. The rotors perform best with gentle stops for the first 100-200 miles, then the pads need to be bedded-in with a number (5-10) of medium effort stops from around 45-50mph, with about a minute in between, followed by 5 minutes of driving, then 5 hard stops with about a minute in between, during which time the brakes will start to get hot and smell bad. Not to worry, as this is cooking out the chemicals that may outgas under a hard stop otherwise and reduce brake effectiveness. Keep driving and try not to make any complete stops (do this in a rural area) for 20 minutes. Park the car (at home is fine, you don't have to just stop somewhere) for at least 3-4 hours to let the brakes cool and you're good to go.
1. the problem about the rear tires are for 06 only orfor 07's too?
2. my car ALWAYS skids in snow even tho im rele careful drivin.. do i just need snow tires or theres a problem with the car..the abs always kick in..
3. im considering buyin a set of 16's steel wheel from an 07 ex with snow tires just for winter.. would it fit 07 si sedan? i think they have same bolt pattern but i dunno bout the offset, width stuff like that... need help..
Let's say a "home run" price for this car is $5000, for a really nice clean one--so you'd deduct accordingly for what it would take to make your car clean and ready to roll.
Thank you!
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So it's more like "agrees with the condition it is working under".
The booster should not affect the pedal in that way. If the booster fails, you'd get a pedal that is very hard, not soft.
The only way a booster could do this is if it sucks all the brake fluid out of the master cylinder and burns it (through a vacuum diaphragm leak).
Ah, you've modified the car...well, that could mean it's a free for all, in terms of causes.
It wasn't me who modified the car, it was that way when I purchased it. The car originally had abs, but when they installed a different motor, etc.., the car now does not have abs. Could this have anything to do with the issues I am having?
I think what I would do if I were you is bleed the master in place by removing all the lines and plugging the holes with the right metric or ISO brass plugs.
Once it is bleed, at least you know THAT'S right.
As for what else can cause the pedal to drop all the way----maybe the wrong thickness of rotor, the wrong pads, etc--what i'm driving at here is that the caliper pistons, or rear wheel cylinders, are extending out too far.
What I meant was, if it wasn't clear, is that when the car is off, the brakes were nice & firm, and when I started it, the brakes go straight to the floor. So yes to what you asked.
Very bizarre.....I'm scratching my head here.....maybe there's a bad check valve in the brake booster?