Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

2008-2009 Chevrolet Malibu



  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    I don't have exact link for TSB relating to 08-09 Malibu, but it is easy to find. A couple of them are for hybrid only, but the others could all be related to damage caused by the missing diodes.
    I saw a picture at dealer that showed the fix which was simply disconnecting the plug at the fan motors and then plugging in the short jumper harness that contained the diodes.
    Since mine does not have the diodes I can not say exactly where they are. I did get the page showing the wiring diagram with the cooling fans circuits. The way it was drawn seemed to indicate that the diodes should be located near or right at the connector plugging into the fan motor. With engine off and cold so there would be no power sent to motor, I unplugged from the fan and used a diode checker across the two pins in the connector. An ohm meter should be fine for this. Put the two probes, one in each socket (pin) and look for resistance. Then reverse the meter leads and check again. One direction should indicate an open, infinite resistance. The other should indicate some resistance, maybe about 10K ohms, certainly more than a few hundred. There is no danger to system because the relays feeding the power will be open.

    Clowns at jiffy dumped wifes tranny fluid. She declined the change and they did not refill. It still had enough fluid to work fairly well, for awhile. By time she discovered an issue the damage was already done. And sometime passed before she revealed what happened at Jiffy so that I was able to put the situation together so as to explain the missing 5 qts of fluid when there was no leak.
    I'd check it before going back for service, just in case.
    When it goes to 5K, is it upshifting at all. I assume vehicle is moving, so is it sticking in low or some other gear? Does the RPM change substantially without any change in speed? (couple of hundred RPM or more)
    As to 2K RPM, you are still not clear. Shift points vary widely with the amount you push the accelerator. With mild to moderate pedal, from a stop you should see at least one upshift, depending upon final speed. Not sure on 4 speed but it seems that before 50 MPH you should have shifted into fourth gear and acheived TCC lockup. If you are not able to feel the shifts, find a safe area, no traffic, keeping one eye on road and the other on tachometer. Slowy accelerate and watch for RPM drops indicating a shift. RPM will again rise to the next shift point. Abandon eye on tach if the road needs your eyes!
    Another test you can do which will determine slippage in low gear or reverse clutches is check stall RPM. Test should be limited to under 30 seconds with at least a few minutes between to allow cooling of fluid.
    Set brake and push brake to floor. If any vehicle movement happens, immediately release accelerator!
    Push accelerator to floor with previous instructions. RPM should come up to around 1000 RPM or slightly higher. This is the stall speed of the torque convertor and I don't know the exact stall speed for this vehicle. The RPM should hold steady at that RPM indicating no slippage in that particular clutch combination.
    It is suggested that be done in all available shifter positions. The stall RPM should be very close for all ranges. If that passes, you have at least eliminated some alarming conditions.
    You might even want to run it by a transmission shop that is reputable as a rebuilder. Believe it or not, quite a few dealers farm tranny work to such shops. It saves them the extra training and equipment necessary to do the job themselves. And most warranty jobs would be a tranny swap. Also a reputable shop will have a hand held unit that they can monitor while driving to pick up on problems that might not set a code or check engine.
  • ohgeezohgeez Posts: 12
    With 5100 miles my 2009 1ls out of no where has developed a front end wheal/tire vibration noticeably pronounced at 60+ mph. Does feel like a worn wheal bearing buzzing vibration. Just can't believe it on a new car, bringing it in to dealer. Has anyone experienced this and what was the fix? thanks.
    Oh by the way also have that clunky/knock noisy suspension.
    I do love this car otherwise. :cry:
  • ohgeezohgeez Posts: 12
    With 5100 miles my 2009 1ls out of no where has developed a front end wheal/tire vibration noticeably pronounced at 60+ mph. Does feel like a worn wheal bearing buzzing vibration. Just can't believe it on a new car, bringing it in to the dealer. Has anyone experienced this and what was the fix? thanks.
    Oh by the way also have that clunky/knock noisy suspension.
    I do love this car otherwise. :cry:
  • To recap from an earlier post
    I was was getting sluggish shifing. Also at 5k RPM , it wont shift gears . Same goes for 2k, no pep on acceleration and wont change gears .
    The Check Engine light came on .I called On Star . They confirmed the engine misfired . Later on. SERVICE TRACTION indicator came on.
    Its most noticeable when I first start out in the morning .I brought it into my dealer (13,600 k on the car). After I described the situation, he said he had other cars with simialr issues and it was a cat converter .
    He ran tests an confirmed my cat converter on the manfold was bad ( he said there are 2 converters on this model). He said the part is on a national back order because of the high demand . The high alcohol content ( GOV EPA RATING ) in the gas caused it to go bad . So I have the car now , still driveable and I have to wait for the cat to arrive . I wonder if GM will modify the cat beacuse of the alcohol content in the gas ? I'm located in the NE
  • Regarding the suspension noise you mentioned, I had a similar noise develop in my 2008 Saturn Aura. It clunked on turns, driveway transitions and when I reversed direction. It was a worn pitman arm bushing. Car had 15,000 miles on it. Service tech told me that he has seen bad bushings in cars under 1000 miles. It took only an hour to replace the part and totally eliminated the noise.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    First I"ve heard of anyone loosing a cat because of alcohol content. 10% is not very high. The alcohol should make your engine burn cleaner, oxygenated fuel. The main reason for the cat is to burn excess hydrocarbons, burn CO turning it into CO2. If for some reason you were running very rich, that excess would be taken care of by cat but it might also be so much that the cat basically melts inside. GM was on Christmas shutdown till the 5th. I checked at GM parts direct and they only show one cat and it is a special order only item.
    Did you possibly mean O2 sensor? There are two of them. A front and rear or position 1 & 2, ie pre cat and aft cat. GM parts shows an updated one for the rear, but Rock Auto shows two different ones for the front, for A4 or A6 tranny. They too are special order, non-stock items.
  • The service manager clearly said cat. No mention of the Co2 sensor . I guess I just have to wait and see what was written on the service ticket when its replaced . I , too was a liitle skeptical about it . But who knows?? What scares me is , if its is the cat design , and nothing is done to change it , I may have to get it replaced several times . If I see a pattern happening ,I'll get rid of the car before the emissions warranty expires . The cat warranty is 8 years, or 80k miles. I never had a cat replaced with such a low mileage . I only had a cat replaced once , years ago with my Chev Cavalier and that was right before the warranty expired ,50k . The only symptom was it was making a rattling noise .
    Time will tell . He did clear the computer codes and told me not to accelerate hard .I will keep you informed when its finally replaced
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 879
    The 2.4 has 2 converters, 1 at the manifold and one just forward of the resonator. So 2 converters, 1 resonator and 1 muffler. Lots of junk on the 2.4.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Having the service TCS is interesting. I can easily see how that could cause the other issues. I'm uncertain of it being the other way around.
  • I found out that the 4 cyl engines use a closed-coupled converter system (2 converters) Apparently other car companies use this system on 4 cyl engines as well. If you do a search here on this site (search forums ) for closed-coupled converter , someone had similar issues. I also did a google search and found a 2005 Cavalier owner with the same issue that I have .. High rev , , not shifting
  • sligg1sligg1 Posts: 1
    2009 Malibu, LTZ. 3064 miles in 17 months. Seldom use the car.

    I parked my 09 Malibu LTZ, shifted trans to park, left key in ignition, engine still running, exited car. Back in a few minutes and all four doors were locked. Had to call roadside service. Same thing happened two days later.

    I have not been able to recreate this problem at home.

  • This could have been a good time to use OnStar to do a remote unlocking of the doors . I decided to renew my subscription for 1 year after my initial year when I got my car ! Even though I have OnStar , I still made a copy of the key and hid it somewhere on the outside of my car where I can gain easy acess to it . The $50.00(with coupon ) I paid for an extra key ( done at Home Depot ) was well worth it !
    Was Roadside assistance covered ? I would think so .
  • Just over 47,000 miles, my Malibu has recently been "stuttering" at low speeds (40 - 55 mph) / low RPM (1,000 - 1,500), while at a consistent speed (no accelerating/de-accelerating). This seems to happen more often when going up a hill, and is "cured" by accelerating or shifting down to "I". Does this sound like something typically fuel related (pump, filter, injectors, etc)? Electrical (sensors, plugs, wires, coil, etc)? Emissions (o2, cat, etc)? Or could it be something in the transmission? Any guesses / theories / hypothesis / troubleshooting tips would be greatly appreciated and helpful.
  • Well, I finally got My 08 Bu going again .The issue was getting worse . I had also been getting the ... engine power reduced display .. right when I was cruzing on the highway. Coudn't go more than 40 mph . Had to turn off the engine for a few min and start up again to get it back to normal operating speeds . Luckily , I had the use of another car while my BU sat in my garage for 2 weeks.
    I had to wait 3 weeks for a "Special Order " Exhaust manifold gm pn 12618546. Apparently , it also includes the Front Cat converter . I googled the pn and came up with Saturn 12618546 MANIFOLD ASM-EXH (W/ 3WAY CTLTC CONV_.
    WOW, want a difference in acceration ! The mechanic's note mentioned , . removed O2 sensor , found high back pressure . plugged (I assume CAT ) RR
    Lets see what happens in the next few weeks.

    FYI see
  • I am having a slight steering clunk whenever I turn the wheel to the right from a slow speed or from a stop. My 2008 Malibu is a V-6 with 26,000 miles. Has anyone had a similar problem, and if so, what was the fix?
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 879
    Spray it here with GM Super Lube, WD40 or PB Blaster. Don't even need to remove a panel.
    Your car should be under warranty.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    That appears to be a bearing just below that and if so, definitely do not spray such stuff, it can ruin the bearing. If under warranty, let GM be responsible.
    And if it is a greased bearing, it is important to know what type of grease was used in it, if you attempt to lube it. Lithium, often white grease, and molybdenum are not compatitble. You might be able to find a synthetic grease that is compatible with either but again, oils will not be compatible.
  • I agree. Don't lube ! If you do and it still does not solve the issue , then you stand a chance of voiding the Warranty ! Just take it in for warranty service . Let GM handle it ;)
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 879
    This is from a GM TSB, you really should not post if you have no idea what you are posting about.
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 879
    This is from a GM TSB, you really should not post if you have no idea what you are posting about.
  • It's just common sense....not rocket science. If there is a TSB, let the GM service department take care of it....if still under warranty . If the car is brought in for warranty work, the dealer willl have a history of repairs done to that car ... just in case you need documentation for any future issues.
    BTW, I worked in the service industry for many years.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    I ran across a thread where a GM guy was conferring with his friends about the idea of adding a grease jerk to the intermediate shaft because of its know problems and then just pump it full of grease every so often. That was his idea!
    Ok, where does all that excess grease end up at? On the carpet?
    And just what grease do you use that will stay stable and not liquify running all over the place with the wide range of temperatures? And stay firm to take up the slack from wear over the same conditions? And how do you ensure that the same grease is used all the time?
    A major problem with suspension joints back in the day of grease jerks was the imcompatibility of greases and some mixed together would harden into a clay like material which wore the joints out and often made it impossible to pump more grease in.
    By all means, use great discretion if you decide to try a fix yourself. You may not have all the necessary knowledge. Even us more experienced people make mistakes so I would say a lot of people would do much worse.
    But some of us will chime in with advice and our experience which may be useful.
  • I took the car into the dealer, and they lubricated the intermediate steering shaft under warranty. They said they only replace that shaft if they find damage. This did fix the problem.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Interesting, do you know what lubricant they used and exactly where they place it?
    It has occured to me that there may be universal joints in the shaft and the clunk may be occuring because the bearings in them get dry. Especially if there is a great angle at the joint.
  • I have a 2009 Malibu LTZ V6 and I have a humming and vibration I think coming from the front of the car when it goes over 65+mph. You can feel the vibration. It sounds similar to your issue. Was the dealer able to fix it?
  • vanman1vanman1 Posts: 1,397
    I had the intermediate shaft lubed on my 2000 Intrigue under warranty also. So far after a year and a half no issue with the Malibu.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Technically, your vehicle does not have a Pitman Arm. They are used on vehicles that have conventional steering gear boxes, not at all on rack and pinion.

    The closest part in resemblance would be the steering arm attached to the steering knuckle and I certainly hope they have not reverted to the joint on that.
    At one time, some designed the moving joint to be on the pitman arm and when it wore out you had to remove the arm from the sector shaft on steering box. Later, most put the joint on the drag link which lessoned the chance of damage to the gear box during disassembly. Gear box very expensive!
    Even during the day of that being the prevalent steering system, the movable joint would have been on the tie rod end and so it is with every rack and pinion setup I've seen.
    That really brings into question a serious problem if it was the steering arm. They don't have wear points. The possibilities of it going bad are: it was bad from day one because of machining errors and not caught during assembly. The attaching bolts were loose or became loose. The outer tie rod was not properly tightened to it or it became loose.
    In all cases you have a great danger. If they had become loose they had a great chance of becoming totally disconnected causing total loss of control. When loose you stand a large chance of the part snapping, breaking, and again total loss of control.
    Perhaps you should think this something for NHTSA. About half of those killed in the Toyota thing were passengers of the other vehicle.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    First, from your spray point, you don't seem to know what you are doing since those two pieces move as one so what are you lubing.
    Two, are you saying these three products are the same? Not sure what is in GM super lube and never heard of third product, but WD40, although it has some lubrication, it was mainly designed as a water dispersant, hence the WD. I hope you don't have water at this location because you have serious trouble if you do.
    Again, the cautions apply as I wrote previously. Unless you really know what you are doing, you can cause more damage in the long run. And that might not show up until after warranty or be blamed on what you did.
    I have not disassembled or seen details indicating the exact parts at that location. That is, if there is a bearing located just below the spray point, bearings always get grease and to short cut with those products will likely remove grease from the bearing.
    GM mechanics are not always fully knowledgeable and likely looking for a quick fix, right or wrong.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    Exactly. But do keep spreading it. It is valuable to plants.
Sign In or Register to comment.