Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Ford Explorer Air Conditioner and Heater Problems



  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    You are probably on the right track. I'm thinking a blend door in the dash isn't closing properly, or not opening properly. This is a tough and expensive fix as the whole dash will likely need to come out. I had this problem once, and just ran it on normal rather than fix it. But that was just me. If you want to pay to fix it, you need to take it to a mechanic who knows how to do it.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    You have some sort of debris, paper towel, carpet piece, etc, trapped in the cabin air intake behind the glove box. Sit on the passenger side and move your right foot up and to the right as far as you can and your foot will be over the intake duct.
  • Thank you so much. That was the exact problem. The first day it happened, I felt up there a little, but I had NO idea that something could be sooo far up there. It ended up being a produce bag from the grocery store. Problem solved and it didn't cost a penny. You rock!
  • I haven't used the a/c in quite sometime. When I had turned it on it was making an odd clicking noise and made the engine sound very rough, and no cold air. Being the woman I am, I asked a couple of the guys what I could do rather than visit the mechanic. I was told to buy the can of freon and one of the guys put it in for me. Wonders of Wonders, it worked beautifully, lovely frigid air and no more clicks and the engine ran GREAT.....for 140 miles one trip. LOL loved that. The mass conclusion is that i have a leak....really?! LOL Anyways, any suggestions on how I can home fix this? Thanks for your help and this is really a Godsend of a forum! :shades:
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    You probably do have a leak, but it could be anywhere from the seal on the compressor shaft to the evaporator, to the condenser, to the hoses and anything in between. It needs a leak detecter installed and a close inspection to find it, then some part will need to be replaced or fixed. You can't easily do it at home, unless you know a pretty competent shade tree mechanic who does A/C routinely. Could be expensive, or cheap, depends upon what it is. However, it's not a big problem to charge the system once a year, if it will run all summer with the one charge. If it were mine, I would wait until it runs warm again, and if that's next year, I'd not worry about fixing it, I'd just charge it again for the summer. OTOH, if in a month, it's broken again, you'll need to have somebody look at it. Good luck!
  • sss914sss914 Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer. Recently I noticed that the air conditioner will automatically rotate the output of airflow from the dash to the floor to the windshield every 30 seconds or so. It doesn't matter if the A/C is on automatic or on manual and I am attempting to tell the A/C to blow out of the dash, the floor, etc. What could possibly be malfunctioning and what $$$ am I looking at for repair?
  • bayouboy60bayouboy60 Posts: 1
    edited June 2011
    I have a 2005 Ford Explorer, XLT 4wd. About a month ago my A/C pumped out cold. Now its jut blowing air with hardly any pressure. Although I can hear the fan at full blast the emitting air has low pressure, and the air is ambuient. Could you please give me a possible whats going on.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Mouse nest on the A/C intake air fliter..??
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Depending upon whether the blend door that controls the direction of the output is electric on that model, or vacuum driven, you either have a bad switch, or a vacuum leak that is letting the door cycle. Neither are a really simple thing to deal with, unless you get lucky and find either the switch on the dash, or a hose leaking under the dash that is easy to find and get to. Otherwise, you may need help.
  • rogbakrogbak Posts: 2
    Did you get this resolved? I may have a similar problem with my 2005 Mercury Mountaineer. Air is loud when fan speed is turned up to 4 (max), but it doesn't seem to blow out as strong as one would expect.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    How many miles on the Mountaineer?
  • rogbakrogbak Posts: 2
    edited June 2011
    70K miles on the mountaineer. I did not notice a filter in there.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    There is no filter on these cars. What usually happens to these, because of the ABSENCE of a filter, the evaporator coil clogs up with dust and grime from the airflow, although not usually until a bit later in life. Some cars, you can get a hose in there and clean it out. I dont' know if that's possible on these or not, I never tried. My 03 did the same thing, but it had 140,000 miles on it when I sold it, still running strong, by the way. It's also possible to have a blend door not functioning properly, or an obstruction in the intake.
  • clwill82clwill82 Posts: 1
    CLUSTERBUSTER IS RIGHT!!!!! Pop the glove box down and look at the vacuum cylinder (brass or aluminum) in the upper left part of the void left by the box. There should be a lever attached to the plunger of cylinder, THAT IS THE FLOW CONTROL VANE OPERATING LEVER. Moving the lever changes the flow location. The CRAPPY TIN METAL LEVER ARM on the flow control vane broke and wasn't attached to the cylinder, SO I ZIP TIED IT THE CYLINDER PLUNGER (it has an eye at the end) AND VANE LEVER TOGETHER, ran some tests, adjusted the zip ties some, and VIOLA!!!! $200 MY [non-permissible content removed] SUMMERVILLE FORD!!!
  • dstumpmandstumpman Posts: 1
    edited July 2011
  • vato03vato03 Posts: 1
    You are correct again. I read your post and the other guy/lady's question and response about the ac. I had the same problem with the ac not working. My wife and i had a argument about taking it in. She just wanted to take it in this afternoon and i wanted to wait and think things out. i wanted to think things out because there are other things we need done to our 2K Explore, brakes, and transmission checked. She had a jerk reaction and i told her i wanted to think about it, the big picture not just the ac. She set up an appointment and I looked on line and you had the solution and saved me some money!! And my credibility!!!! Thanks.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Sounds like a vacuum leak in the control system. A reduction in vacuum when you accelerate is allowing a blend door to open to the hot side of the system, and overcoming the cool side. May be a little hard to find, listen for a hiss, may lead you to it. Could also be the actual control panel leaking air as well. However, I THINK these controls are electric on this car. Could be wrong.
  • acv123acv123 Posts: 1
    I have an 02' Explorer and the ac works best while driving down the road. Once I stop the air gets just barley cool. any ideas what this could be? Thanks.
  • I have a 2003 Ford Explorer XLT V6 4WD, the front air blows cold but the rear only blows air. The heat works in the rear, just not the a/c. Does anyone have a clue what could be wrong?
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Most likely low refrigerant.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Easy clue. This car has two evaporator units, one for the front, one for the back. The expansion valve for the rear unit is plugged. Not a hard, or expensive fix. If one knows the location of the expansion valve. It's in the line somewhere before the evaporator.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Often when you have two evaporators but only one compressor there is an EPR valve in each line to prevent a single evaporator from "stealing" all of the liquid refrigerant.
  • Hi - Seems like a popular problem, but I haven't been able to find the solution, hopefully someone here can steer me in the right direction.

    I have a 2006 Ford Explorer 4x4 Eddie Bauer IV Generation 6cy with rear aux heating and cooling. The A/C is only blowing out the defrosters in the front. Rear AC works fine. Temperature control is working, I have both hot and cold air with no thumping or clicking noise when I turn the control knob. So it doesn't sound like the blend door. I checked the blend door actuator on the lower driver side and its working. I checked the vacuum lines behind the vent control knob and behind the glove box and all connections seem ok. I can reach through the vent and push the door open that blocks the front vents but but it's not opening or staying open on it's own. I also checked the metal arm that attaches to that flap from the vacuum reservoir in the back and it's intact. Seems like maybe a vacuum issue. I'd appreciate any suggestions. Thanks!
  • I found the leak - it was a hose under the hood.
  • drew89drew89 Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 explorer and two days ago when I went to drive it the ac would only blow cool air when i was moving. When I was stopped it would blow hot air. Then yesterday it wasn't even blowing cool air when I was moving. I don't know what the problem is. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Engine is tending toward overheating at idle or refrigerant leak.
  • willjkwilljk Posts: 3
    Thank You albert911, without your knowledge I would of never found my same problem as you found with your Ford Explorer. I fixed mine a little different. I puled on the actuator and was able to get all vents at once with air coming out. So I took off the vent control knob and replaced that with a piece of plastic that I made round to fit in the space and velcroed it so that I will never turn the control knob and loose my air vent again.
  • I have a 2006 explorer Limited, same problem. dealer wanted 600.00 to put in a new blend door. I decided to check the vacuum diagram for my explorer. I found a vacuum hose on top of engine near the firewall, it was melted and had a hole in it, I started the car and turned on the air and then i held my hand over the hose and the blend door opened and now it works great. just needed a little duct tape. Its worth a try, hope it works.
  • mariamflmariamfl Posts: 1
    edited August 2011
    I have a 2003 Ford Explorer, and the AC after driving for 5 minutes, starts blowing minimal/warm air, and then cools again. Have taken to repair, and they replaced the compressor, but continue to have the same problem. Have taken back to the repair shop many time, but they cannot find the problem. They checked for leak with a blue dye, and indicating it's not leaking. They did fix some seals, but still, the problem persists. Any suggestions, before I continue to spend more $$$ on this SUV without fixing the problem. Ive already been advised that I may wish to seek a 2nd opinion, as they can't find the problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    That sounds just like a faulty, or dirty Expansion Valve in the line. It should have been replaced with the new Compressor, however, lots of shops don't bother to do that. So: If they did replace it when they changed the compressor, it's likely bad. IF they didn't replace it, it's likely plugged with debris from the lines. Either way, I'd have it replaced. It's very cheap part, and half an hour to replace. Not a big deal.
Sign In or Register to comment.