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Ford Explorer Air Conditioner and Heater Problems



  • shannaoshannao Posts: 1
    edited July 2012
    i have a 1996 explorer and when i turn the heat or ac on i can only get it out of the defrost nothing wont blow out of the vents can someone please help
  • fsaund752fsaund752 Posts: 2
    I just had the same problem with my 2010 Explorer. It was a problem with the vacuum hose. Luckily mine was still under warranty.
  • I have a 2012 Explorer that is blowing water vapor that smells like hot engine coolant from the defroster and dashboard vents. I've had it to the dealer twice. He ran a pressure test on the cooling system and said there's no leak. Supposedly, Ford is aware of this issue with multiple customers and is coming up with a fix in the 4th quarter (2012). Has anyone else had a similar issue and if so, where does it stand?
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    There is a vacuum driven servo valve that absent a source of engine vacuum will do this.
  • Had a similiar problem with 07 explorer.turns out there was a blend door actuator on the drivers side of the have to look hard for had 3 screws and 1 plug going to it.a small gear was stripped out resulting in a "clicking" sound.40 dollar part and not too hard to can manually open the door in the 2007 on the right side just look for the lever.the blend door was stuck shu8t only letting cold air in.this worked.hope it helped.
  • akolkerakolker Posts: 1
    edited October 2012
    I have an '05 explorer and the heat and a/c would only come out the vents so i took a saturday ( today) and put in a new door actuator in thinking that was the problem.. get it all back together and now it all comes out of every where and the a/c wont work kinda frustrated any suggestions????????? :mad: :confuse:
  • bells5bells5 Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 ford explorer with 3rd row seating that the a/c and heat work in the front and the rear bottom vents but only the a/c works in the rear top vents,when I turn the heat on in the rear top vents the air stays cold and never gets hot.What could be wrong,any suggestions?
  • Fixed my problem perfectly. Only difference I did was used a zip tie rather than a screw! Thanks saved me some money
  • rdeleonrdeleon Posts: 1
    edited November 2012
    I have ford explorer 03, both hoses going to heater core are warm , replace pump and thermostat , flush heater core, could any body help
  • I have a 2002 explorer -- had the blend door replaced because it was making a thumping & wouldn't flip over. Now I have heat but the guy at the repair place told me I would have to "play with the dials" until it flips over.... IE.. I hear a loud THUD as the thing flips & then I have heat. I've been doing that, but now it doesn't want to flip so I am back to no heat... fans, etc. work fine... Took to the dealership they want to charge me an insane amount just to look at it & have no idea as to what it may even be... Help.
  • I have the same problem. How do I fix it?
  • Yes! The work is huge. I went ahead and changed the Heater core as well!
  • I believe the "Guy at the repair shop" was pulling your leg. There should be a more definite installation at the repair shop. Before installing the blend door actuator on my daughters 99 eddie bauer, I found that the door was more sensitive to the A/C position. I opened the actuator and set it to that position and the door cam and actuator mated easily. For 99 Eddie Bauer Explorers, you really need small hands and tools. I had the small tools and really struggled on the installation. But, I saved a heavy shop bill!!
  • It would really be nice to know what the NEW blend door actuator module is set for so that it could be adjusted to match with the blend door cam. On a 1999 Explorer, I played with the plenum actuator and found that it would return to the A/C position. I opened the new actuator and set it to the extreme A/C position and it matched easily with the plenum door cam. I hope this info helps. On 1999 Explorer Eddie Bauers, the actuator is mounted on the top of the plenums just behind the glove box. I hope this info helps somebody in the future!
  • I have a 2008 EB Ford Explorer that has two issues. First the heater/air conditioner was clicking loudly unless it was in the exact right spot, but now it clicks all the time and the heat doesn't work at all!

    Also, the engine light came on and we took it in the diagnose it and it says a gas leak (??!?). This happened before and we took it to the dealership when it was under warranty and they said they couldn't find a problem. The light came back on so we took it back. I don't know what they did, but we didn't have the problem again for about a year and now the same issue is happening again. Ford says we have no warranty now (another story - they have been so disappointing and I will NEVER buy from them again).

    Are these two issues possibly related and what needs to be fixed? I know nothing about cars so I am nervous to get ripped off. :S

    Thanks so much for any help!
  • Took the Explorer in for testing. Turns out that we have the model (Eddie Bauer, 2008) that has no gas cap and the valve (?) has gone bad so that is where the leak is located. Ford says we have to replace the whole line all the way to the gas tank. Awesome engineering, Ford, thanks for the junk you sold us. We will NEVER buy Ford again. This car has had problem after problem. :(
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Nothing is wrong, that's the way it was designed.
  • The radiator had a crack, changed it out.
    The valve leaked, replaced it
    The seal of the level control replaced.

    It was determined today after the radiator was replaced, that the vacuum hose is not working on the heater valve. The hose was left disconnected and the heater is now working.

    The heater valve was purchased and installed by Kaufman Tire Service. The radiator was installed by a referred mechanical service. When the heater did not heat, the mechanic checked out the heater valve and determined the trouble was with the new heater valve system.

    I would like input regarding how confronting Kaufman facility that performed the work. This was a cost to me in the amount of $218.00 and it's only been 11 days from repair/replacement.

    Thank you for your time.
  • heat only in rear of vehicle how do u repair actuator for heat door
  • If it did not cost you any more money when the mechanic found the issue then your only course is to contact the Kaufman, talk to the manager/owner tell them what happened. Tell them that you can get a written signed notarized document on what the mechanic had to do or they can call the mechanic themselves. Tell them that you want some money refunded on the 218.00. If they do great if they do not and you paid by credit card, dispute the charges on your credit card. Not a hard thing to do, normally you have 60 days from the time that you charged to dispute a charge. Your credit card company will have instructions on how to do this. If you had to pay the mechanic more money to fix it, then you still need to contact Kaufman and you still need to dispute the charge.

    Plus, please put your comments on what happened on Yelp. People do go by Yelp in getting services.
  • I had almost exactly the same issue come up. Not the check engine light so I doubt that I have a gas cap leak issue, but the climate control system was clicking if not in the right spot, followed by total failure. I saw your follow-up post about the gas cap valve leak. I'm confused how that would have contributed to heater system failure. That sounds like a separate issue. What was the final outcome / repair for the climate control system? Thanks in advance.
  • I have a 2005 Ford Explorer that clicks whenever I turn the a/c or heat on. The click comes from underneath the dashboard and I believe it's a climate control actuator problem. I was wondering if that is indeed the case and how much it would cost to correct the malfunction. Additionally, just recently, the heat stopped working.

    Any solutions, or ideas? Thanks.
  • I have a 2002 Ford Explorer. When I try to turn my heat on it makes a loud thumping noise and only cold air would blow. I had a "friend" look at it and he was able to reach in through the glove compartment and move the stick to heat. The heat worked perfectly fine and was hot however once the truck was turned off and then back on the stick was stuck again and I only got cold air. I took it to a mechanic who just told me that he was able to move the stick back to hot but the heater core was shot and needed to be replaced and that until it was replaced I can either have air conditioner or hot air but not both and cannot switch back and forth. He said it would cost $1,000 to fix the heater core. I obviously don't know much about cars but it seems that if the heater core was shot I would not get hot air when I turned it to hot. Does this make sense to anyone and do you think the mechanic is correct. I feel like I am being taken advantage of. Please help.
  • hash_pennihash_penni IndianaPosts: 13
    ">Hello, We also have a 2002 Ford Explorer. We had the same problem and our problem was not the heater core. It was actually the blend door gear, and alot cheaper than the heater core (about 35 bucks), and its easy to check. If you take off the panels underneath the steering wheel and the center console and its a little bit of a tight squeeze but lay on your back on floor board and look up towards the radio (on your back it would be the left side) and stick your hand up there and feel for a box, you will see it, its probably white. The blend door is hooked to the box and if you pull it out (the box) (you will have to unhook wires and you can open the box, look at it and tell if the gears are striped, (which is what our problem was) go to auto zone or online, and order a new box (30 some dollars) replace it and voila! your truck will work :) and as a quick fix you can pull the rod hooked to gear out of the box, and put it back into the slot (hooked to the blend door) and leave the panels off your truck and each time you turn the car on, reach under there and flip the gear manually. Super easy! once you get part just replace it all and your good!

    If you google 2002 ford explorer blend door gears, you will see the box im talking about, and you will be able to tell which part you can "temporarily" take apart and stick back into the truck to have a quick fix if they have to order the part.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    The diagnosis sounds correct. The cost may vary though. Depends upon which door is sticking, and where it is. I would say $450 to $1000 is the range.
  • 98 Explorer , you can start it, turn air on and it is cold, drive a bit and as car heats up or if it is really hot outside, will start to blow warm (not hot) air (like freon is low). Then after a bit it will begin to blow cold again. For the last year we have not had to change the Temperature selection knob to get heat, just change the air/heat selection knob. So, Blend Door or Cycle Switch? Also, rear air fan makes awful noise if on, how hard are these to change out?
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    OR, (and likely), a bad expansion valve. Not a difficult fix - does require an evacuation, obviously. The part is about the size of a nickel and doesn't cost a lot more than that. Certainly not a big job, other than the evac and re-charge. Usually you need an equipped tech for that.
  • Thanks, will check out the part, get it and see about getting my mechanic to fix it. He is good to me when it comes to labor, so hopefully will be an easy fix.
  • imcglynnimcglynn Posts: 1
    So would the climate control actuator and "blend door actuator" be the same thing? My 2008 is having the exact same issue.
  • My 1998 explorer sport only blows out hot air. I charged the A/C with refrigerant yet it hasn't solved the issue. I'm not very great with cars so any help would be much appreciated!
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