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Honda Accord Coupe Electrical problems
I have owned my 2003 Honda Accord Coupe EX since January 2003, until 2005 I had no significant problems. I haven't seen any discussions related to this, so I am checking to see if others have had these types of experiences:
First, I started having trouble with the rear defrost failing. Each time I took into the dealer, the problem was fixed, and shortly there after, it would fail. Over the course of the winter this occurred a couple more times, however it now seems to be 100% resolved. The oddest thing was that when the rear defrost wasn’t working my heated seat light for the drivers seat worked, but when the rear defrost was working, the light was not.
In early 2006, the passenger automatic door lock stopped working. The dealership replaced the regulator. When I asked why this happened, no one was able to answer, other than “sometimes this happens”. Approx. 6 months later the driver side regulator failed. Again, no real response on why this is occurring. It seems unreasonable to me that a vehicle that is 3 years old would have two regulators fail.
Starting in the summer of 2006 my stereo controls on my steering wheel have been inconsistently not working properly. Sometimes when I press the volume down – it goes up. To change the station, occasionally causes the volume to change. Since the problems are inconsistent, I can’t be guaranteed they won’t be working when I take it into the dealer, and therefore I have not reported the problem to date.
It should be noted that I do not have any after factory installations. Any ideas or similar issues out there?
J
First, I started having trouble with the rear defrost failing. Each time I took into the dealer, the problem was fixed, and shortly there after, it would fail. Over the course of the winter this occurred a couple more times, however it now seems to be 100% resolved. The oddest thing was that when the rear defrost wasn’t working my heated seat light for the drivers seat worked, but when the rear defrost was working, the light was not.
In early 2006, the passenger automatic door lock stopped working. The dealership replaced the regulator. When I asked why this happened, no one was able to answer, other than “sometimes this happens”. Approx. 6 months later the driver side regulator failed. Again, no real response on why this is occurring. It seems unreasonable to me that a vehicle that is 3 years old would have two regulators fail.
Starting in the summer of 2006 my stereo controls on my steering wheel have been inconsistently not working properly. Sometimes when I press the volume down – it goes up. To change the station, occasionally causes the volume to change. Since the problems are inconsistent, I can’t be guaranteed they won’t be working when I take it into the dealer, and therefore I have not reported the problem to date.
It should be noted that I do not have any after factory installations. Any ideas or similar issues out there?
J
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Comments
Thanks
Ideas?
Car: 2003 Honda Accord 4cyl 2/dr coupe
NOTE: Should be the same for any model Accord around this same generation.
Primary Problem: Wife's car will not shift from park. Button on the center console shifter depresses maybe half way, but will not release the gear lock. Car is stuck.
Secondary Problem: Investigation reveals that all three rear brake lights are not working. (previously worked fine) All fuses checked and are fine.
Diagnosis: A part called a "break light switch" or "stop light switch" has gone bad. This part tells your car when you press your break, thus activating your lights and also telling your transmission that the car is in a braked positioned, and is safe to be shifted out of park.
The Fix:
Step One: First, if you need to move your car (like I did from Walgreens parking lot). There is a small plastic tab on the upper left side of the shifter face. (just northwest of the "P" for park) This is the shift lock override. Use a piece of cloth to protect the plastic and stick a flat screwdriver in the open slot and pry the plastic tab out. Now, take your car key, shove it in the hole, thus releasing your shifter. Now put the car in neutral and depress the brake (obviously). Now put the key in the ignition and start the car. Put it in drive and go. (have someone follow you. remember, you have no break lights which is a major safety hazard, as well as a traffic violaion)
NOTE: If the shift lock overide doesn't work you may have a bad cable running from the shifter to the tranny. See a trained mechanic for this.
Step 2: Get under your steering column near your pedals. You'll need to pull out the plastic protective cover (pretty easy, it's just snaps in and out of place)
Follow the brake pedal's arm up. About 3/4 the way up, you'll see a plastic piece with a plunger on the end, that depresses when the brake is un depressed. It's about a 2 inch part with a fat end that a wiring hub plugs into. Unhook the wires (press tabs and pull). Now grab the fat end and twist it (clockwise *I think) about 1/4 of a turn and it will release from it's plastic mounting piece.
Step 3: Pick up or order a "stop light switch" from your local auto store (cost me $11.88+tax at Advance Auto Parts).
NOTE: The ordered part may look different that the original, which worried me at first too, but it's fine as long as you order the part for your car's specific specs.
Step 4: Back under the dash, pop out the plastic mounting piece from the metal part that sits in front of the break pedal arm. You new part has a round "female" part that will insert into this spot. It just snaps into place.
Step 5: Plug the new part into the wiring hub. The part recognizes your breaks are activated when the plunger end is out (natural position). So with it just plugged and not installed your brake lights should be activated and if you start the car, it should shift. I'd check this before going farther, to make sure it works.
Step 6: Insert the male plunger piece into the female part until the plunger is fully depressed by the brake pedal arm (do not touch the brake pedal, just leave it alone) With the small plunger thing depressed turn the part about 1/4 of a turn (counter-clockwise now *I think) and it will snap into place (with plunger depressed)
Step 7: Have someone check your lights while you hit the brake and test the shifter. Assuming it works, put the cover back on and you're good to go (not to mention an extra $150 in dealer labor plus towing charges in your bocket)
Cost: $11.88+tax
Time: (Had I not had to do 2 hours of research to figure all this out) about 45 minutes from taking out the old to installing the new
Difficulty: Easy (and worth it). I'm no mechanic, but consider myself fairly handy, especially with simple tasks. This really wasn't that difficult. Hardest part was getting under the dash in a small 2/dr coupe.
Hope this helps. Good luck.
Thanks for saving me the research! I will try that. Just found out that my brake lights weren't working last night and I have been checking fuses and bulbs this afternoon.
I have an issue with a 03 coupe accord the sts light keeps coming on, can this be because the brake light switch needs to be replace if so hiw come? or what's the reson for this?
please help
Now, for the past 2 days the wipers have stayed on constantly. They only stop when I turn off the car
Any ideas ?
I searched, but found nothing. Be easy on the newb
the lock/unlock does not work for the driver side and intermittently unlocks the passenger side (it does not lock the passenger side)
the power locks only work for the passenger side
the horn doesn't sound when i hit the lock button
i can only lock the doors by pressing the lock button down on the driver side.
is this worth fixing? i.e. is this a fuse or an electrical problem that could be costly $$$?
anyone else have this issue and can you give me an idea of what's causing it so I don't have to hear the honda mechanic tell me it's the blah blah blah that costs $500 to repair.
stacey
Now, I'm noticing an occasional light "typing" sound that seems to be coming from my steering column that started about two weeks after I had the above repair completed. Have you noticed anything like that on your Honda?
I would like to know what options do I have.
Thanks.
Thanks, B
I tried replacing the master door switch which the dealer said was defective (power into switch, NO power out) but that did NOT solve the problem of the locks not responding either via the key remote NOR from switch on drivers side or passenger side switch.
Remote DOES operate the trunk lock OK.
Anybody else? Any fixes?
any ideas?
THANK YOU