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Older Civic Maintenance and Repair



  • I have a 93 Honda Civic and have no issues with it until warm weather comes along.
    The car will not start. Starts in the morning no problem, but once it has sat all day in the warm temp you come out to leave and the thing won't can wait till the temp goes down and car starts fine. We have had it in the shop NUMEROUS times and they can't firgue out whats wrong. Everything checks fine - fuel pump, lines, alternator, battery. Had the disp.cap replaced...going nuts. Can someone give me a clue?
  • lloyderlloyder Posts: 1
    Hi i bought my wife an auto civic 1600 1993,its started to slip gears now 101,000mls and i wondered given the age i do not want to spend thousands of pounds fixing it can i change the gearbox easy enough for a reconditioned unit.I am good with spanners but by no means a qualified mech.I just wondered if i could do it easily enough.
  • tmickeydtmickeyd Posts: 1
    I have a 98 civic LX. When I turn my headlights on my dashboard lights go out! Also i think this problem is causing my radio not to work. Any ideas as to what the problem is? Thanks.
  • paulbrpaulbr Posts: 3
    Hello all,

    I have a 2002 LX 4 door 5 speed with 85k miles. When I am accelerating quickly (merging onto the interstate) or traveling around 75 mph, the engine hesitates and lets out a very short squeak. It only happens between 3000 and 3200 rpm.

    Any idea what this is? It hasn't gotten any worse since it started 3 or 4 months ago, but I don't want to ignore what might be a serious problem. I figure it's some sort of belt issue, because that's what the squeak sounds like.

    Thanks in advance for any help.
  • enverenver Posts: 4
    It probably is a belt slipping. Is the AC engaged when this happens? It might be the AC clutch providing a bit more load to a loose belt which slips and squeals. Try tightening the belt. ;)
  • robert141robert141 Posts: 1
    I have had the same problem and I have found something that seems to work so far.. even in humid 85+ degree days!... just fill the tank with the highest octane the gas station provides.. a little on the spendy side but I have not had a hot start since then, sometimes a foreign car needs that extra octane to start up. If that doesnt work then i dont know what the issue is with your car.
  • tigeriiitigeriii Posts: 5
    My steering wheel sounds like it is rubbing against rubber when I turn it to the right. It is also a little hard to turn. Any ideas what is the cause?
  • Hi I have 2008 honda civic with 12,000 miles on it and I have been seeing that wiper blades have been streaking when they are used. It has been happening for couple of months probably around 9,000 miles. I don't usually use them that much only when there is raining and I clean them up whenever I fill up the gas at the gas station. can anybody tell me how often should these be replaced? I live in midwest.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 18,387
    The rubber that Honda oem uses is quite durable when cared for. However if ignored, a 6 mo change will cure what ails it.

    I had to finally change a set after 5 years (80,000 miles) because one wiper blade started to tear ever so slightly.

    There are a few tricks if you are interested. If not, I don't want to bore folks.
  • crazyflycrazyfly Posts: 61
    In my experience the very cold weather shortens the life of a wiper blade rubber to less than a year. Mileage doesn't matter in this case becaue it is the weather that makes the wiper blade brittle after which it starts streaking. I've lived in midwest and northeast and experienced this first hand. I now live in the south and the wiper blade lasts a few years.

    I would recommend replacing the wiper blades inserts every year before the winter season. They cost less than $15 a pair and you can install them yourself. The replacement inserts come in a plastic wrapper that has instructions printed on it. Takes less than 10 mins of your time with no special tools.
  • lmoreno3lmoreno3 Posts: 21
    My wife's Honda Civic EX AC went out recently. I went and bought a new compressor with clutch, expansion valve, the whole works. Had it all replaced at a shop. But the AC now working, does not really feel cold, or cool the car interior down. Took it back to the shop, they rechecked all of thier work, vaccumed the whole unit and recharged it with the same effect. I later checked the AC Charge, and it marked full of freon (134A). Is there something else that I can check or replace? Any help will be greatly appreciated.

  • My 2001 Honda Civic
    Lx has been overheating at random times. I put anti-freeze into it at least every 2 to 3 days. Yesterday I was playing around with it and was letting the engine run while the radiator cap was off(adding fluid letting it work air out). I placed the funnel in the radiator started the car, and by the time i had the cap off the anti-freeze the radiator was overflowing. The pressure caused it to back up. My father told me the Thermostat was bad so i bought one and put it in. But it overheated on me again today. What is the deal? ****Side note: mostly it does it when the car idles, but it will do it when in motion as well, just not as much*****
  • uga91uga91 Metro AtlantaPosts: 1,065
    Hello. I have a cousin who has had a 1994 EX Sedan since new. She's going to break down and buy a new Honda this fall and she's willing to sell it to me for $1000 because she doesn't want to fool with trying to sell it in the paper or haggle with a trade-in on a 15 year old car.

    This car has about 45,000 miles on it and--knowing her--it has probably never been driven over 55 mph. It's been dealer maintained and the upholstery almost looks new--especially in the back seat. My question is, what are some issues that may pop up with a car this old? My daughter is almost 13 and I'm thinking I may buy it, maybe drive it some the next couple of years and then let her learn how to drive on it/be her first car. My only fear is that by the time she turns 16, it'll be 18 years old. At the current mileage, I would think the car has about 100,000 miles left in it. I know it's old, but it has sunroof, air, automatic, power windows, etc. Those are some nice features for a first car. Thoughts?
  • thegagethegage Posts: 13
    Neither pressure nor a bad thermostat caused the coolant to overflow the radiator. The reason it overflowed is that liquid expands as it heats up; it will do this on any car, and very quickly after start-up.

    Is your fan running when the car is overheating? If not then either the fan or the circuit (including the temp sensor) is bad. This type of failure is most evident when stopped or at low speed because not enough air is flowing over the radiator.

    However, you say you're losing coolant at a fair clip.

    Can you see cooling leaks?

    If the fan runs and you don't see any leaks you could have a failing head gasket or a crack somewhere in the cooling jacket (head/block)--which is why coolant is disappearing but you don't see any leaks.
  • thegagethegage Posts: 13
    You could easily buy it and resell it for about three times what your cousin is asking. That car has another 200,000 in it. There's not a lot to worry about. Belts maybe. A full fluid change. Drive it and enjoy--or tell me where your cousin lives and I'll buy it!
  • usf813usf813 Posts: 8
    I think. Looks like the top of the radiator has cracked. Had 2 hoses replaced three weeks ago but i've had a lingering coolant odor. At stoplight last night temp. needle started creeping up but returned to normal when I started driving. Today I poured some coolant in the radiator and reserve and turned on car. Could see where it was leaking along the top edge of the radiator. Tomorrow i'll drive (carefully) to my families mechanic to see what he says. Considering having it towed but I think i'll be OK. 120k miles so I guess it's time for a new rad...
  • nyc2k7tsnyc2k7ts Posts: 1
    Upon going for a routine oil change, my mechanic told me that my 2000 Honda Civic EX coupe needed new Rear Torque Mounts, front sway bar bushings and an emissions system cleaning. The car has 74,700 miles. I do not hear any symptons from the car when hitting bumps or making corners. I've never hear of these parts needing changing before. I've never even heard of an emissions system cleaning. He wanted to do all this with a coolant flush for 800 bucks. These seems like excessive and needless repairs, especially since the car isnt showing any abnormalities. Has anyone come across these issues and have any advice, I asked another mechanic and he told me "what the hell is a rear torque mount" he used to work in a honda service shop with a dealer in NY. thanks
  • Hi, I have a friend who is leaving the country. So he wants to get rid of his Honda Civic 09 sedan which is on lease. The car is in good condition 27k kilometres. The car is on lease till the end of 2010 with a monthly payment of $260. Can someone tell me if this is a good deal to take?? and also how much do i have to pay to change the leasing agreement from his name to mine? and the approximate residue value of the till the end of the lease?? Thank you very much.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    You might try running this by the folks hanging out in this discussion: Purchasing at the End of Your Lease. Good luck!
  • dfwlovadfwlova Posts: 1

    the brakes lightd on my 92 civic vx hatchback stays always ON, no matter what, car turned on(started), turned off, with or without the keys, they are just always stays on! :(
    does anyone have any tips or help to provide on this?

    Thanks in advance!!!
  • rga1960rga1960 Posts: 1
    I own a 2005 Civic VP. I absolutely love the car and it has been extremely reliable even considering that it has 220,000 miles on it now.

    The "Battery Light" came on indicating that the car wasn't charging properly. I feel pretty certain that it is the alternator because I can run up the RPM's and the light goes off. The belt is tight...maybe 1/4 inch movement.

    My question is for someone with limited mechanical experience how difficult is this to change in one's driveway? Is there a website that I can visit that will offer step by step instructions?

  • You can see the edge is detached and the bottom bent; I'm more concerned about getting the edge hooked back under. I found a replacement bumper for only $50 - repair places are quoting $500, which is my deductible. There's a picture at 2004 Civic EX. Thanks!
  • My 1998 Honda Civic barely turns over when starting ... But not all the time.
    Sometimes it starts up just fine. To me it sound like a dying battery but I took it to AutoZone and the battery and charging system are just fine. The guys said maybe the starter is beginning to go ???

    Any suggestions woudl be greatly appreciated !!

  • Hi Everyone,
    i have a EK3 - 2000 Civic (D15Z4 Engine), Automatic. It has done 104,000 KM. I bought it about 3 months back.....

    Changed the timing belt, tension, oil seals, filters, shocks, cleaned the injectors, tune up .. all from the Honda Agent. But it not doing great on fuel economy.......Only does about 7.5Km to the Litre...

    U.S. 17 Miles per Gallon
    U.K. 20.42 Miles per Gallon

    By the way.. the tyre size is 185/65R14 .. Stock size was 185/70R13...

    When all of the above failed... the agent plugged the computer & checked the ECU & other settings.... the guy who did the test said the Injectors are open (when idle) for about 3.4 to 3.5 ms... he said that looks to be the issue and the normal range should be 2.6 to 2.8 ms.......

    I need your help..........
  • I have electric locks and the passenger side will only unlock when I use the key--not when I use the automatic lock/unlock on the driver's side. In fact it is really hard to manually lock or unlock it using the post/button whatever it is called. Any ideas?
  • mark19mark19 Posts: 123
    you might want to look into the door lock actuator. That had problems before on previous civics i've had from the 96-2000 model range.
  • Hello , maybe somebody can help us out a bit here.
    My daughter just got herself a 2000 civic (vp) .

    The key gets stuck in the ignition and can only be removed with the battery disconnected ? I checked the ignition fuse is good. maybe a sensor or? Dont have a chiltens manual yet so looking for advise.

    Also it doesn't lock in park. Im assuming its supposed to. are these related?
    Thanks for any help.
  • I cannot think of any connection disconnecting the battery has or would have on the removal of the ignition key.....well maybe. In park with the car "off" and key removed the transmission should lock in the park position only being able to be moved into reverse-drive with the ignition key in the start position (car running) and foot on the brake pedal. There is a mechanical/electrical connection in play here so maybe that is a cause of your problems. I think the brake light switch also doubles as an interlock of sorts telling "the car" you have your foot on the brake so it is OK to shift out of park. This is a safety feature designed to keep people from slipping the car into a drive function without being in a position to keep it from "unintended acceleration" i.e. a foot on the brake.
  • Got it. It was the actuator pin in the shifter. actually was a service bulletin i found for an adjustment of the shifter cable.
    Thanks for the response though.
  • teestees Posts: 2
    Got into an accident where two air bags deployed and my fender needs to be fixed. No engine damage or transmission damage. My windshield fluid container needs to be replaced. How much do you all think this will cost plus labor? I have 104,000 miles on it and I think kbb is about $3500 under fair condition. If the fixing price is close to the cost of the car, is it worth fixing? The car has been rock steady since I brought it new. Zero maintanence needed besides the usual changing battery, new tires, brakes and oil changes.
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