Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Older Civic Maintenance and Repair



  • Hi, I recently bought a 1992 civic 4cyclinder, hence heading, and was wondering what the price was for repairing/replacing anything that needs to be done. Any input is appreciated,

    -D15B4 series SOHC 16 Valve
    -about 195,000km on it (not miles)

    I bought if off my mate for $1000 AUD, Unregistered. To get it registered, I brought it to the mechanics to get a Road Worthy Certificate, RWC, ( According to Victoria Laws, coz I live in Melbourne ). Problems/expenses that I've encountered so far


    -Alternator, got that replaced for $100 - parts and labour included
    -Needed a Unregistered permit from VicRoads in-order to drive the car around, 10 days for roughly $50
    -VicRoads inspection $50
    -Some lightbulbs such as brake lights/parking lights/front lights replacement $10
    -Needed to replace my whole front windscreen, since the mechanics would not let me get a RWC because of a scratch smaller then a $1 dollar coin, I had no insurance cover so it cost me about $185-the guy came down to my place and installed it.
    -Road Worthy Certificate cost me $120, fair price since the mechanics need to take photos of every car before issuing a Road Worthy Cert.
    -Gasket cover valve change $150, got this done at the same mechanic which issued me the RWC, knew this was a rip-off since they get the part in for 20-30bucks or something, Wasn't going to do it, but it had to be done to prevent oil leak, and pass

    the RWC.
    -Petrol $50bucks
    -Power Steering container replacement $20
    -Bought some minor accessories for $20
    -Registration at VicRoads $610

    Thats how much I spent so far, and now I need the following to be done:

    Just got a quote for $650 which includes

    -full tune up
    -full service
    -water pump replacement
    -timing belt replacement
    -adjusting the carby choke due to car having a hard time starting up
    -brakes bleeding due to the car Stil going abit when I step on the brakes

    I told the mechanic I also have these problems:

    -acceleration problem- there's a kick especially when you slow down or idle and press the pedal to accelerate, happens at corner turns as well as normal simple accelleration to increase speed,
    -and some rattling sound when your driving on a 80km/hr road

    Anyone know what these problems are and approx how much to fix ?
    -worst case scenario or easy fix input would be greatful
  • I have no certificates when it comes to working on Honda's, but i can tell you that cleaning the IACV is just a temporary fix, i can't tell you how many times I've taken that valve off of my girlfriends '99 Civic and cleaned it, i'm willing to bet i could do it in complete darkness. My advice: replace the part as i'm having to do, i did happen to find a a website and they have the IACV for our Civic's for $75, which is at least $100 less than the national auto parts people.
  • 97 civic LX sedan 176,800 miles....In the past 5 years I had the main computer replaced and cracked manifold replaced by the dealer. Now in the past 2 months this is the third time my speedometer has gone haywire while driving down the road or accelorating at an intersection. I need to disconnect the speedometer sensor to be able to drive the car. I have had the computer replaced with a used version twice and the speed sensor replaced once and all connection cleaned. Now I need this fixed again. In past 2 months as it had before ithis intially started it has felt like something was holding the engine back while trying to eccelerate . sometimes at high speed 50+mph engine hesitates and then rpms will jump way high then it wont speed up. It also feel like there is something holding back the engine at low speed. About 1 year ago the oxygen sensor was replaced. The fan for heat/ AC has gotten much noisier.
    Could there be a short somewhere? Is there a warranty still affective for the manifold or ECu computer beyond 150,00miles.......

    Also about 5 years ago the SRS main unit had an internal failure isn't Honda responsible for replacing it The dealer has refused to pay to replace it from the get-go.

    I would appreciate any advice.. Thank you!
  • cmruffcmruff Posts: 15
    Where is the fuse for my (dead) front power socket, the socket that is NOT in the center console? Is it #28 in the fuse box by the steering column? I looked in the manual and that's the closest thing I saw and I'm at work so can't look under hood yet.
  • cmruffcmruff Posts: 15
    2006 Civic EX sedan, sorry, meant to have that in post
  • My husband replaced my drivers door lock actuator since my remote would no longer lock or unlock my doors. The manual switch in the door worked fine. Now, once I close the drivers door, it locks automatically, and it is very difficult to open with the key from the outside. Wondering if there is some other part we should have replaced along with/instead of the actuator? I cannot manually lock the drivers door from inside since the replacement, and the entire lock seems very stubborn and near freezing up. Please help!!
  • 1998 Honda Civic LX with 116k on the odometer, while driving I get a vibration while my foot is on the accelerator happens while on expressway and while driving local. Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks
  • michkkmichkk Posts: 1
    did you find out the problem ,because I have a 2001 honda civic and it does the same thing and I cant figure it out .I will check in to see your response thanks mich
  • abckatabckat Posts: 2
    edited January 2012
    my battery was 3 or 4 yrs old. I replaced that. The light occasionaly goes dim in the area between 40-60mph on speedometer and the whole fuel level. sometimes one or the other are dim a or both are lit up normally. There doesn't seem to be rhyme or reason to it.
    after changing the battery Its only had the issue where the car "stalls" when when trying to speed up about 3 times since the battery swap. Its been about 6-7 weeks ago?

    I haven't had any problems with the whole speedometer going crazy and having to disconnect it to drive the car.

    When I swap out my winter tires in April I'll have the lights/electrical checked out that light up the dash.
    There has to be something corroded and shorting out there... and just need needs to be replaced from age. I can hear a loud click sometimes when the light comes on. a friend said he cleaned all the connections from the distributor going to the speedometer the ECU and dash area.

    The only other thing I did was replace my headlight bulbs they were visiblely dimmer due to be at least 10 years old.
  • Hi, I have a Honda Civic 2000 with about 108,000 miles on it. A little while ago the "check engine" light come on even though the car was running fine. My mechanic said it had to do with the oxygen sensor. They reset some codes, and the light went off, but my car began shaking while at a stoplight and even stalled once--something it has never done before. I took it back, they ran some tests, then said it needed a new oxygen sensor. With labor and parts, it came to almost $500. A few days after that, the engine light came back on. I took it back, and the cycle was repeated--engine light reset, car shaking at stoplights. The mechanic told me to come back again and have their specialist look at it again. I have used this garage successfully for several years, but they have to bring in an outside mechanic to do this job, and they can't answer any questions about the work themselves. Advice and info is welcome. Does it sound to you like I need a new mechanic?
  • maldo2maldo2 Posts: 1
    My son has a 95 Civic 1.6L D16Z6, and while doing a tune up, we basically found out that whoever did it last before my son bought it, stripped the #4 spark plug. We decided to take the head off to rethread the spark plug hole. I keep on hearing that this is the safest way to do it. Well, for the TDC, #1 piston is high, the alignment marks are lined up on the camshaft sprocket. The rotor is pointing towards the #1 spark plug wire and the timimg marks by the belt are lined up. the only thing the haynes book, it says to align mark in the flywheel/drive plate with the notch in the pointer.... I cant find this. so will it be ok if I continue to take the head off as long as all the other stuff is lined up???????
  • I've got a 2010 civic lx with the stock steel wheels and hub caps - and looking at Civic alloys being sold on Craigslist - one set is off the 2012 EX and the other is off the EX 2010.

    both look like nice upgrades, but my impression is that the rims from the 2012 model look less substantial in the amount of metal used - Consumer Reports really slams the most recent edition of the civic and I was thinking they cut costs in many areas including the rims.

    anyone else think that?
  • Hi everyone.

    So I am inheriting a 2002 Honda Civic EX with 65k mi on it. I know I'm going to take it to the mechanic and have it checked out and replace what it needs.

    However, I'm pretty sure I'll need new tires.

    Any tire gurus out there? Mostly need decent comfort, low road noise, and decent tread wear. I was thinking of going with Costco Bridgestone Ecopia EP422 when they have a Bridgestone discount. That or go to Discount Tire and get either the Hankook Mileage Plus II or the Cooper CS4 Touring. Which would be best?
  • anosleranosler Posts: 1
    edited October 2012
    In the middle left of this photo there is a short, hardened hose sticking out of the engine bay wall. On my 1996 Civic Hx that hose is leaking what seems to be water... Anybody know what this might be? image
  • Likely lat answering this, but at about 110k miles the timing belt MUST be replaced. If it breaks, you lose the whole engine. Prices vary by location and mechanic, but that should be around $350 atop other maintenance. As for the suspension, I have never experienced this in any Honda I have owner (owned them constantly since late 80's) so I cannot address this. If you push down hard on the car then quickly release if it bounces hard a second bounce, or does a 3rd bounce after you release it, the shocks or struts are likely bad (learned this clear back in the 60's, it's kind of a rule of thumb). That's the best I can advise on suspension.
  • The most common cause of this is the in-tank fuel pump (Civic has 2, one in the tank and 1 near the engine, both electric) Either the pump is bad, the sensor, or the attendant wiring. In any event, that has happened to my 2x on Hondas since the mid 90's. Both times it required both a pump and sensor as both were over 180k miles.
  • Hello everybody,

    I recently encountered a problem that I'm a little confused on what the cause might be.

    I was driving the other day with no problems and it was raining heavily. As I was enter the freeway, the engine stalled for a second and would no longer accelerate, it would just idle at 10-15MPH. I pulled to the right shoulder, shut off the engine to check under the hood. Nothing seemed out of the ordinary, but I am no mechanic, so a glaring problem would go unseen even if it sticks out like a sore thumb.

    However, after having a quick look under the hood and not finding anything. I tried to start the car and it would not start. It could not be the battery because all the lights etc were on. Needless to say, I called AAA and had it towed back to my house.

    The following day, it started and ran normally without any problems thus far.

    I was talking to a friend who was looking under the hood at the same night while it was raining and suggested maybe too much water gotten onto the engine and caused it. I am no expert truth be told and unsure how accurate that is.

    My question is, have anybody experienced a similar problem and have found out what was the cause? I drive pretty long distances daily and having a car die out like that would get pretty dangerous on the highways with traffic.

    Thanks in advance for the responses, I hope I can have an idea of what the problem might be and suggest it to my mechanic if he can't find a definite answer.
  • On a car that old, it is possible that old wiring can lose it's seal, thus letting in water. It's not hard to use a silicon gel to reseal connections, but without knowing the right wires to check, this one is probably best left to a mechanic IMO. You may wind up having to replace a harness, but a good mechanic might be able to reseal bad connections. A harness can mean big bucks, so I would get a second opinion if your mechanic says you need one.
  • Quick update, I was driving home from my daily commute, made the drive up with no problems, but ran into the problem several times coming home.

    Engine loses power won't accelerate when I pushed on the gas. Eventually pulled over to check, again car won't start. It will crank but would not start. But after 20 minutes it would start again. At this time I have already called AAA and they have already sent a tow truck.

    I had it towed to my friends body shop for him to look at and he said that the problem seem to be the coil/distributor. I really hope its that simple.

    Has anybody have a similar problem and if replacing the coil or and the distributor fix the problem?
  • olddustofferolddustoffer Posts: 16
    edited December 2012
    Clearly an electrical issue. Best of luck, but the last time I had a large electrical issue, it cost big (However, this had to do with my son shorting out the wiring harness under the dash trying to install a big stereo). Wasn't something I could blame on Honda. The other thing possible might be one of the fuel pumps acting up. Please let me know what they find.
  • brutellabrutella Posts: 3
    edited December 2012
    I just talked to my mechanic this morning and he said he replaced the distributor and left the car running for about an hour and it didn't shut off.

    Before he installed it he left it running for 20 minutes and it died.

    I haven't had the chance to go pick it up and actually drive it around but it seems that the problem was indeed the distributor.

    However, I still have my fingers crossed until I drive it around.
  • Thanks for the info. I may need it for my 2001 Civic
  • abhipabhip Posts: 1
    Hi All

    I am really confused and would appreciate any answers / help you have to offer. So here is the issue:

    I bought a 2003 Honda Civic Coupe EX for $5000 in August 2011. Then took it to 3 mechanics to get 3 different opinions, in order to get it completely fixed. My idea was to drive the car for atleast 5 yrs. So in order to fulfill that idea, I spent close to another $5000 on it.

    The fixes included:
    Replaced timing belt and 2 drive belts and valve cover gasket
    Replaced both lower control arm units
    New water pump
    Replaced all front seals, cam and crank seals
    Replaced thermostat and gasket
    Replaced both front and rear struts
    Replaced new spark plugs
    Serviced Automatic transmission fluid flush
    New battery
    4 new Honda tires
    replaced clock spring behind steering driving air bag

    After 16 months of driving, it turns out that the engine has ceased on me because of a chipped camshaft and compression problems. It will cost another $2000 to get a 75k mile engine as replacement. This time as well I got 2 opinions and both stated the same problem.

    Now the predicament is whether i should sell it or spend more to fix it? If I look at the numbers, I have already spent $10k on the car and if i sell it, the max i will get is around $2500. But if I chose to fix it by dumping another $2000 in it since majority of the parts in it are close to new, I am not sure how long the car is going to last w/o major issues and whats the guarantee that I wont have to spend more? I am really confused at this point.

    Please advise.
  • olddustofferolddustoffer Posts: 16
    edited December 2012
    Am I to understand that you bought it THEN took it to mechanics?
    Never a good idea. Without a warrantee, you should Always have a Mechanic look at it.

    Too late now. What I am seeing you had done was at least 30% overpriced at 5k More like 50% Timing Belt/Water pump $300, Struts $1200-1500 Seals <800.

    It's your call, but if you buy a 75K miles engine, you are looking at Timing belt/water pump(always do them together as it saves taking the front of the engine off again) at 110K engine miles, You didn't say how many miles on it, but a new Tranny is likely at @200k-250K miles if automatic.

    Personally, I would take the $2000-$2500 and buy one off the lot for 17k or less, depending on what you buy. For what your mechanics are charging, I'd find new mechs after the Warantee on the new one wears off. You either bought a rare Honda lemon, or one with a TON of HARD miles on it.
    Please Please take any used car to a trusted (prolly Factory) Mech BEFORE buying. If they won't let you, walk away. You cannot afford any deal you can't walk away from.
    BTW, I'd buy some cheap used tires and stick em on B4 selling as well. Save or sell the good ones. It's not going to affect the price on a broken engine car in my experience.
  • bigfurbigfur Posts: 649
    Driving the wife to work nothing seemed wrong, took a right hand dies. I pop it into N and it restarted for about three seconds then died again (for good this time). Pulled it home to my garage and hooked up the OBD2 scanner and to which it read absolutly no problems. This car was my brothers wifes before i bought it and i know she isnt the brightest bulb but my brother says he has never had any issues with the car. Im stumped, its getting fuel, the battery is almost new and no trouble codes. Anyone have any ideas?
  • You didn't say what year or how many miles on the car. without knowing that, I have no book to look at. Has it restarted since then? When did you last run Fuel System cleaner through it? If over 100k miles on it, has the timing belt been changed? If that is overdue, you may have a serious engine rebuild coming.
  • Yes on the mechanic. at 108k miles, you are due for a Timing Belt change at 110K, so if they have to dig into the car at all, that should probably be done. I always have them replace the Water Pump at Timing Belt time as they already have the front of the engine torn off, and it may save some serious money later. Since your shop has to bring in an Import Specialist, it would seem unlikely that they have the required Diagnostic computer as well. The shaking most likely is at least 1 cylinder misfiring, and may be solvable by running Fuel Injector cleaner through it. I recommend doing that about every 7-10 fill-ups, but others may well disagree. it depends upon what grade/type of fuel you buy. Some already have additives, but cheap "convenience store" types do not. Please keep me updated, so I can add the results to my knowledge.
  • At that low a mileage, you shouldn't have to baby it on uphills at all. Is it Automatic or Standard transmission? My 2001 with 185k miles (Standard) pulls serious hills with only going down to 4th (there is a hill on I-25 between Albuquerque and Santa Fe where you go up 3k or more feet in 4 miles, which I do in 4th). IMO you may have a fuel Pump issue. Most Hondas have 2 fuel pumps, one inside the fuel tank and another up at the engine, both electric.
    As for the noise, is it constant rumbling like a bad muffler would be? or is it intermittent? Does it pop loudly on deceleration? If so, you either have a bad muffler or exhaust leak somewhere. Does the sound come from underneath or from the engine box? If underneath, may well be the muffler, especially if you live in an area where they use a lot of salt in the winters. Any noise coming out of the engine box is more serious.
    IMO, while a dealer is more expensive, unless you have a mechanic that specializes in Imports, you may have to go to a dealership. You have 2 problems at least in my experience. The slowing down is the most serious. It is possible that the noise could be caused by an exhaust manifold leak (which could also cause power loss) but you say it has always been weak uphill so I doubt that the 2 are related.
    The first thing I do when I buy a (used) car, is have a few little things fixed by a mechanic, so I know if he is honest, then I establish a "Rapport" with him so I can trust him with bigger items as they come up. I still view even the dealership Mechanics with a wary eye, and frequently get second opinions. I suggest that on any high dollar item, that you also get a second opinion/estimate. Even my regular mechanic occasionally tries to add a few "less than necessary" items to my bill if I don't pay attention. Unless you are carrying a heavy load, a civic should never slow down more than 2 gears on most (highway) hills.
    If it is slowing down to 30 on level ground, it is certainly no exhaust problem. It could be anything from a bad fuel pump to a dropped valve or worse.
Sign In or Register to comment.