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Dodge Grand Caravan Steering



  • I had the same whining and groaning sound on my 2002 voyager. The shop said they needed to flush the power steering system and replace the fluid. That made it worse.
    I made them aware of the reservoir problem as they were not aware of that fix. I asked them to put a new reservoir in and they did bingo problem solved. They were glad to find out the fix for that problem. I am very lucky to have a really honest and upright shop. One of their mechanics thought about it and agreed it was causing cavitation of fluid.
  • we have had a whistling/whining noise in the steering when stopped after traveling 60 miles or so at highway speed. Has Dodge had a problem with the rack and pinion?
  • I have a 2001.. I replace the power steering, then the rack and shortly thereafter the noise kept coming back. I 've been reading all the postings about steering problems and several mentioned cleaning/replacing the reservoir. Our local auto part dealers said it was a dealer part only so I decided to clean it out. I blew it out w. an air compressor then sprayed it clean w. brake cleaner. When I put it back it sounded worse but the next day I checked the fluid again and it must have went down slowly bc it was low again. I added more and it is completely quiet. Its been 4 days now and no whinning. They get glogged and deprive the pump and rack the fluid required. Wish I had tried this before the pump and rack was replaced. Probably never needed it done. ...and my husband said I was crazy for reading these. But it worked.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,925
    Crazy?! You were crazy before you read the posts, and the van drove you there! There is all sorts of knowledge acquired through shared desperation. ;)
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • akindyakindy Posts: 1
    I have a Dodge Grand Caravan 2006, when ever we drive on the highway we get this loud noise in the engine, very annying humming noise, does not stop even after getting off the high way. It does not do it if we just drive on local roads.

    Our mechanic said he is going to replace the steering wheel fluid and if that does nto work he will have to replace the pin and rack.

    any suggestion will be helpful.

  • If the noise is coming from the engine, then it's not the rack and pinion or steering, it's in the engine block.
    It does seem to be a steering problem though and the noise may be coming from the steering pump and not the engine due to the humming noise.

    Replace the power steering reservoir first before replacing the rack and see if that fixes your problem, if not have another mechanic check it out and see if it's something else. :shades:
  • Hi Bill,

    Sorry been away from this site for a while. I found this website on the error code P1494 and I'm guessing it has to do with the gas cap being loose. Tighten it up and drive it around for a few days until the computer resets it's self or you can clear the codes by disconnecting the negative battery cable for 30 seconds to reset it's self.
    Check out this site for more information:
  • I know, that larger hose is a real pain. Mine looked like it was fused together and looked melted on the reservoir, but after a screwdriver and a trusty air hose, it came off. I did not want to try the WD-40 trick due to the steering fluid and rubber hose not co-operating with each other and breaking down over time, so I stuck with my air compressor.

    My hose does not look that great at the reservoir and I wanted to change it when I did my power steering reservoir, but looked to be too much work so I passed and lucky for me it still does not leak.

    I have to try that beer thing though next time.

  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    Are you sure it's coming from the engine and not the front tires? Maybe your CV joints?

    Does the noise change depending on whether you are accelerating, maintaining a steady speed, or decelerating?

    Does the noise change when making a turn?
  • I can honestly say the '01 Caravan has been a good one except for this. As for crazy... for taking it back to the mechanic that swapped the steering pump out twice before giving up and the 2nd mechanic shop for diagnosing the rack and pinion only for the noise to return a few weeks later. He said it was defective too and wanted to swap out again. Before I did that I started looking for answers myself. The reservoir replacement or cleaning was a inexpensive trial process. Now tell me what could be causing the faint popping in the rt front wheel after hitting a pothole. Changed tire & rim (warped it). Still pops from just turning the wheel even when the vans not moving and no visible boot damage so not pay'n for a cv joint just yet. It's AWD. Any suggestions? It driving me CRAZY not knowing. but don't want ot get taken for a ride again. :confuse:
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    Ball joint or tie rod end???
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,925
    That is my thought as well. I was getting occasional "popping" sounds coming from the front end of my '98 DGC, usually over rough roads. No such sounds after replacing the ball joints. I also replaced the front struts at the same time, but I cannot figure how the strut could create such a sounds under the conditions sbradshaw described. The ball joints on mine were toast. :surprise:
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • I have the same issue with my 2007 Chrysler T&C. the dealer ship has replaced the power steering resivor and filter as mentioned by others in the forum. but the issue still persist. if you find an answer please let me know. You are not alone. it is very dangerous and annoying. No solution yet? help
  • I have a 2007 Chrysler Town and Country, similar to most of the post I have steering whine. the dealer replaced the power steering reservoir and filter, but the problem is still there. the steering also seizes/stops while driving. it will kick back in, but is dangerous during turns. I took it back and the dealer says they cant find anything. I need help soon before we crash and someone gets hurt! please respond if you have any help.

    #22 in the forum has the same problems also. Please help.
  • I've had a steering whine on my 2004 town and country for more than 4 years. The wheels had no problem to turn but the sounds was becoming horrible. I bought a used power steering pump thinking the problem was coming from the pump. While I was getting ready to change the pump I saw all thoses post about the reservoir and I decided to give it a shot. I have changed the reservoir an the whining is gone. It is like driving a new car :) When I looked at the was not clogged but many debris were on it.
  • I have a 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan. If im sitting still and turn my steering wheel I get a pretty good vibration thats rather loud. When im driving down the road it acts as it should, even in turnes. I have the proper power steering fluid in the resavour. Another thing that occured at the same time is the steering wheel wont lock when I turn the key off. Anybody have any ideas?
  • in the winter time when it is below freezing i have problems with turning the steering wheel to the left only. i have only two options to resolving this problem in the morning either wait for the car to warm up or to forcefully turn the steering wheel until i hear a pop and then it starts to work normally. i only have this problem durning the winter time when it is cold. do you have any advice how to fix this problem? thanks
  • Dealer item #4743012AA.....Should cost $26.45....Chrysler offers discounts for emp's & other suppiers......Chris
  • scurvscurv Posts: 1
    05 GC, power steering leak. We can complain all we want about our leaky rack and pinions...paying $1000 ect..but I would encourage ya'll to file here.
    This should be a recall!! :mad:
  • The problem with your whiny pump is caused by the power steering hose breaking down internally and clogging the internal filter inside the reservoir. Inspect your hoses as you replace you reservoir. Some that have posted on other forums have reported finding chunks that look like black paint flakes inside.
  • chod52chod52 Posts: 1
    The fan only working on high is caused by the blower resistor. Its a $16 dollar part. It is right behind the glove box. Flex the glove box inward to move the arms out of the way and it will fold down so you can work behind it. Unplug the wires to the resistor and remove the 2 screws. Put the new one in and you are good to go, takes less than 10 minutes.
  • Hey, I am having the exact same problem with my Van. Did you find out what was causing yours?

  • sgk1sgk1 Posts: 1
    Do you have a part number for the blower resistor, where did you get it? Will it fix both front and rear blowers?
  • I replaced the pump 3 times then rack and pinion and it started again. I read someone said the reserve tank you pour the fluid into will get clogged. It has 2 or 3 bolts that hold it on. The one beneath it is very difficult to get to and i think it was a 10mm. You dont have to completely remove that screw, just loosen so you can pull the reserve up and remove it. Once I removed the tank I cleaned it with brake cleaner. When I put it back and refilled it, it sounded worse than before. I went back the next day and it was quiet as a mouse. I guess it took a while for the fluid to fill the lines and the air bubbles to go away but it was fine since. I read an article that the line in the back needed to be replaced with a larger one. I probably never needed to replace the pump or rack. It was just starving for fluid.
  • I don't have the part number but remove the door on the glove box. You can see where the blower plugs into the resistor. It is attached to the dash be only 2 screws. My plug had gotten so hot it had melted to the resistor and didnt want to come out. I had smelled a "burning wire" smell for months before it finally quit. It takes about 3 minutes to install but I'm sure they can find a number on it at the part store. I think I ordered mine from Auto Zone b/c not everyone can get them. My rear blower has never given me trouble so I dont think thats your problem if you are having trouble with it too. Odd that they both would go out. Did you check your fuses?
  • bobv7bobv7 Posts: 1
    I have a 06 DGC. Like many others I have the whine. In addition, there is fluid leaking from the rack & pinion boot. Does this mean I need to change the rack and pinion? What is under the boot?

    Thanks in advance...
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    Underneath the boot on each side is a plastic or thick rubber seal that keeps the high pressure power steering fluid inside the rack. One or both of these seals are leaking, if you are seeing fluid leak out of the boot.

    You can live with it for a while - just keep adding PS fluid - depending on how much it's leaking. But eventually, it will be leaking so bad you have to replace it.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,925
    The rack is not too terrible in terms of expense - probably about $250 - but the work itself is a real pain in the rear..... :cry:
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • Hi i just bought the Dodge Caravan with the same problem, i am wondering is this problem fixed with your van, from where you fixed that and how much it costs. thanks
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    Yes, I know. I replaced the rack on my '87 BMW 4 or 5 years ago.

    With that car though, being pretty well balanced front to rear, I was able to drive it with the power steering pump disconnected (hose removed). On the road it was fine, but parking required some arm strength - like back in the old days :P . I don't think I would do that with any minivan!
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