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Chrysler Sebring Starting and Stalling Problems

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Comments

  • I have a chrysler pacifica 2006 model, at when i try to accelerate the car will be jecking.
  • secondly my tank vomits fuel, when i am re fueling, please you help me solve these two issues.
  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Posts: 5,091
    The fuel vapors and air that is in the tank when you refuel get pushed out through the carbon canister in the evaporative emissions system. The canister has to vent the air to the atmosphere through the NVLD (natural vacuum leak detection) valve and then through a filter. The filter may be clogged, or the NVLD may be sticking. You need to have this tested and diagnosed.

    The same with the misfire that you have described, it needs to be diagnosed by someone familiar with the manufacturer.
  • I have a 1997 Sebring jxi also and had same problem with fuses the fuse for starter alt and one more thing that fuse goes to then it was blowing fuses few times a day a friend told me to try a 25 amp fuse but nothing bigger then that slowed it down .then I decided to buy box of 25 fuses cause I was going through them so fast.now haven't blown one fuses kinda strange.my car has always had a mind of her own.
  • Sounds like you have a wire somewhere grounding out.And a shop wants a lot of money to go through to see what might be causing that everything on this car cost a lot 5-6 hours to put in water pump.tune up about 200.00-250.00 makes me miss my Toyota.LOL But got good deal on new top back window broke so friend found one at pickurpart for 120.00 top looks new.every where else wanted 2500.00 and they told me I couldn't just put a window in and yes you can.But now car won't pass smog she is burning oil.smog place said MIT be my CAT I don't think it is plus another 300.00 for that I THINK NOT
  • alans1970alans1970 Posts: 1
    my wifes 2002 sebring conv. runs good cold but after it warms up it will start jumping like running out of gas and the warmer it gets the worse it runs till eventually shuts off at low rpms to the point of not starting (still turns over but wont fire). then after it cools down it starts and runs fine till warming up again. engine light is on. what could cause this. a crank sensor or egc sensor?
  • chaos64chaos64 Posts: 1
    Hello all! I also have a Sebring convertible 2.7 nickel and dimmer myself. Same issue. I am a retired tech. I'm going to throw a few things not mentioned and I see many people having the same frustrating issues and spending a lot time and money. Don't always replace what the scanned trouble code states. The trouble code stored in your cars memory only tells you that the sensor(s) are operating out of their normal range. That sensor is part of many other systems and all it's doing is communicating ( tattle tailing) to you that something made that sensor operate out of its programmed bounds. If you are lucky, if many codes pop up when the car is scanned its most often simple to pinpoint and I would investigate the system that's in common with those sensors. Okay! What I have found with the hard start on theses engines is one of three common fixes. #1. Vacuum leak. Loose or swollen vacuum hoses either cracked or oil soaked. The cheapest fix. That's the most overlooked item and I find that as the number one problem. #2. Mass air flow is dirty and needs cleaned. Believe it or not..you can buy the spray can for about 6 bucks at any auto parts store and you can do that yourself. If you can't remember the last time you had it cleaned then do it. That probably will fix your issues. #3. This is the big one and also overlooked. The timing chain tensioner needs replaced. That gets pricy because of the labor involved. All 3 of what I have mentioned are the top items that I have experienced with my 2.7 engine and customers that I have helped get their cars back to running top notch again. I really hope this can help everyone. Thanks.
  • I have a 98 Sebring jxi convertible that the tach works intermittently. I watchedaa video on u tubeaaboutresoldering some cconnectionson the ccircuit board, tried i, andtach started wworking but ssuddenly stoppedagain. Is tthere anything else I should b looking forto rresolve this issue?
  • My 1999 Sebring convertible was stalling regularly with no warning, and at any time - as describe in these discussions. I read through things, and noted the single best solution seemed to be to replace the Crankshaft Position Sensor, so I did. Took an hour or so, but the place on the engine isn't too awkward - just need to remove the ECM computer, the EGR tube, and get the cruise control out of the way. Once replaced, the car has run without any problem, and it is fun to drive again. Thanks to you all for sharing your problem and solution!

  • I replaced my crankshaft position sensor, map sensor had the plugs and wires changed on my 1998 Sebring JXI convertible and am still having a stalling problem. It doesn't do it all the time, but I can be sitting a traffic light and the rpms will drop and the oil light will come on and the car will die. It starts right back up, but this is really annoying. Has anyone else had this problem and if so how did you fix it.

    Thanks James
  • So I have a 99 lx with the 2.5l and the distributor went out so I replaced it, but it still wont start. I haven't had time to see if there is spark, but I am assuming not. Any suggestions? In desperate need to fix it.
  • tplankatplanka Posts: 1
    Hi all,
    My husband and I bought a 2002 Chrysler Sebring convertible about 3 weeks ago, didn't have it checked out before hand, knew I should have, DARN!
    Love the car, however, for the first two weeks it drove perfect, however knowing that the struts/ball joints need to be repaired. Since then, the car wouldn't start, had a friend of mine, mechanic check the fuses, it was the starter/relay fuse, replaced it, car starts, but the fuse would blow every two or three days.
    Now, when I drive it, 35-40 mph, it dies, it will restart in neutral, but then it hard shifts to drive.
    I've looked at the forums and thinking that it may be the Crank sensor?
    I'm actually going to call the small dealership where we bought it and tell them what's going on, only paid $2100 for it, AS IS...Not sure whether they can and will do anything, but if they don't I will check with the Lemon Law here in Florida. Any ideas, comments welcomed.
    Thank you for looking
    Teresa
  • 2004 sebring convert.. sometimes (not always) the speedometer will peg when the car starts then drops to zero and all is fine. ... also sometimes the car will run rough for a second and stall then start right back and run fine. today the car stalled after being driven a block and filled with gas .. it ran rough the block home and died in the street .. about 10 minutes later i got in it .. it started (kind of) hard and idled rough/fine ..i drove it into the driveway it died half way in .. started right up and went into the garage .. it idled fine but when given gas would rev then upon taking foot off gas would drop idle and die .. (once or twice) then start back and idle fine. after about 5 minutes of sustained idle it ran well enough i drove down the street no prob, around the block no prob, to the store about 10 miles no prob, back home no prob used it to do some running around errands no prob. ...so... yeah!!! no problem (until next time) .. the speedometer issue makes me think a ECM but i hate to think in that price bracket when i'm guessing. .. i've read about the EGR,, Crank and MAP sensors and i'm going to clean the mass air flow sensor .. (should be done anyway) but i need the car to be reliable any ideas will be appreciated. oh and BTW it has a new fuel pump and filter. .. all that seems to check out. it has done this for years but maybe once a year and never for any length of time .. today was a wake up call.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Get the car scanned so that you aren't working in the dark. Guessing can be more expensive than paying for a diagnostic.
  • Hi so most of you know that car come with the top post battery if it's in your vehicle it must be changed to a side mount or they make a kit for the battery to be moved to the back that vehicles top post battery touches the hood it's a common problem shortens the battery out cause rpms to drop car to stall etc 
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