Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Jeep Grand Cherokee Transmission Problems



  • I've a 95 Grand Cherokee that sat for 2 1/2 years. With a new battery it started right up but was low on transmission fluid and the trans was slippling. Added fluid and it ran great for two days then started slipping again. Checked and fluid was low again, refilled. Did not see any leakage.
    This cycle went on for about a week - can not see any leakage. Now it won't go forward in any gear and the fluid is again very low. I can't figure out where it's going . Any ideas??
  • boazbezboazbez Posts: 14
    Leakage could be from the tranny, the hydraulic hoses from the tranny to the radiator or in the radiator itself. I'd check the hoses and the radiator. (I had the hoses leak on me and had to replace them.)
  • Very strange. Has the vehicle got a sealed bellhousing? If so try cracking a few bellhousing nuts, see if the tranny fluid leaks out the gap, as the seal between torque converter and box may be gone. If not, and there is no smell of burnt tranny fluid, it is a mystery for sure where it's going.
  • justus8justus8 Posts: 1
    I've got a 1995 grand cherokee 4x4 with a 5.2 liter V8 that needs a transmission what I need to know is will a trans. that's behind a straight 6 or V6 work?; is it the same trans?; and will a later model work also? :confuse:
  • In a word, Nope, you need that same box
  • gwangegwange Posts: 1
    Hi,Anyone know what is causing the engine to run with less power.Engine light comes on when starting and turbo dies until i`ve driven a couple of miles. turned ignition off and back on then it`s ok.Can anyone help
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    I believe check engine light always comes on briefly when you start so that you can verify the the bulb is not burned out. You need to buy a code reader and see if you can pull any trouble codes out of it. Some codes have to persist before check engine light will stay on, but you can still retrieve them. Obviously if the light stays on there will always be a code you can retrieve. See if the turbo charger has any electrical connections. Inspect the wire and connector. The whole problem sounds electrical.
  • I am not a mechanic, I am a single mom. Feel like I'm getting the run around. Took 2006 Jeep Laredo to family mechanic...told me codes and sent me to dealer convinced both covered under warranty.
    Dealer said not covered under warranty but possibly under extended warranty. One code is ATC sensor. So took it back to mechanic to fix under warranty but mechanic having problems getting parts. Warranty is talking about ATF parts but mechanic said there are no ATF parts because car is so new BUT THEN mechanic got national bulletin from Chrysler on how to fix the problem tried it but didn't work. Does anyone know what I'm talking about or what I should do? Planning to go back to service manager at Jeep Dealer.
  • killeenkilleen Posts: 1
    I have just purchased a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee when i first drive it its fine but after a few miles the speedo stops and the transmission is stuck in one gear it does rectify itself but not for very long what could be the problem any ideas please
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    Please clarify ATC and ATF if I am wrong. I assume ATC is automatic temperature control so it is part of climate control system. Without the Chrysler shop manual which probably costs $200 or not available, it will be very hard for independent mechanic to trouble shoot climate control system.

    OBD codes don't always directly identify what's causing the problem. Frequently it only reports the first symptoms.

    If you don't pinpoint the problem, then you end up guessing at solution which is what happened to you. Guessing gets expensive if the guess does not work. You can continue to guess or pay the dealer. Another option is to make yourself be the temperature controller by turning knobs to raise or lower a/c. My guess is the dealer will charge at least $500 to fix this problem because of the time it will take to troubleshoot.

    Don't be surprised if the dealer replaces the sensor you had installed because in many cases, to be compatible, a part has to do more than just look similar. Or the part you installed was an after market part with poor quality or possible doa when it was installed.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    Make sure shifter is in Drive. Sometimes the cable stretches and the mechanism wears so the indicator starts to look a little inaccurate. Make sure you don't go past D. Go from park to Neutral, and then slowly move it to D, but also make sure it is firmly in D and see if that helps. If it does, your shift lever cable may need adjustment.
  • I finally took care of my shifting problem. Traded for a pickup and got rid of the whole headache and bought an other ford pickup but with a five spd, so no shift problem just driver error if shift problems happen. That jeep drove me nuts for about 7 months, that i found my ford! but it was nice. All well that's my thoughts with jeeps. Junk.
  • I was told by my mechanic (brother) that it is a trany for both inline 6 and the v8, plus read on line that guys put later model trannies in th earlier models? My 95 had the bolt pattern for a v8, but it had a inline 6 in it.
  • My 95 did the same thing and it drove me nuts for about 6-8 months I think that the 183,000 miles has it wore out, then i got pissed and traded it for a pickup and bought an other ford with a 5spd manual!
  • chats72chats72 Posts: 10
    edited October 2010
    My JGC 6 Cyl. has a little over 80K. Recently it rides stuck in first gear until I have reached about 32 - 34 mph. Then it moves to third and it is fine. I have never had problems with the transmission prior to this event and, I have had few problems with the car over-all. Any ideas?
  • taffy3taffy3 Posts: 26
    To chats72 - check the tranny oil when it's hot and with engine running. Top up if low. It cured the same problem with mine
  • chats72chats72 Posts: 10
    Thanks for your suggestion. Do you suggest a full drain and fill? I wouldn't know what kind of fluid is in there now and would be weary of mixing fluids.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    Find out if the trans has a linkage to the throttle. If it does, make sure it is not out of adjustment or stuck. If the trans has a band adjustment find out what the procedure is and have it adjusted. Maybe a Haynes manual will help.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    that trans is all controlled by a computer (fly by wire) no cables no band adjustment
    could be shift control solenoids are sticking as sounds as if trans fluid has never been changed
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    edited October 2010
    if you add fluid use the right kind DO NOT use dextron fluid could be part of your prob
    I would drop the pan and change the filter and oil my self
  • chats72chats72 Posts: 10
    Changing Oil in the Past - I did the normal dealer care for the first 50K miles so I think it was probably changed then - couldn't swear to it though. I checked the oil on the stick (after a wipe - was the car hot?) was full - color brown, and no smell of smoke or burn.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    should not be brown should be redish as trans fluid is died that way so can tell what is leaking if have spots under car also trans fluid is different compounds from reg oil
    as stated would change trans fluid and filters if have wa42 trans has two filters should be in trans change kit from autozone or pepboys
  • chats72chats72 Posts: 10
    edited October 2010
    Thanks to all who have piped in here. To bring you up to date.
    I discovered that code P1762 flashed on the code reader. I took it to AAmco where they gave me their free analysis. Seems there is something awful under the hood. It might come out to $2000 to 2500+ to have it fixed. No promises. The need to tear it apart and see what's really wrong.
    Before I left, the manager asked me what he can do to get my business today. Not sure how to answer that. Well for one thing you could _ _ _ _ .
    I am reluctant about doing business there and I am ready to take it to a Jeep dealer where I am sure they will do all they can to make this into a case study of what not to do when you don't know what to do.
    On my way back to HQ I stopped off at Jiffy Lube and asked if they would drain and flush the transmission. Yes they will do it but they won't drop the pan. They'll push all the old fluid out but can't promise to to get all the gunk out.
    Any ideas, before I stop by my local dealer and hand him my Jeep and a blank check. Like what is the worst case scenario and how much would it cost?
    I believe driving the car in this state is doing the transmission little good.
    YiS, Jeff
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    code is governor sensor volts to high or to low

    just could be plugged pickup need to remove pan and change filters
  • chats72chats72 Posts: 10
    edited October 2010
    Thanks for your note. I have an appt. with the dealership in the morning.

    I'll 'ask' them to do that and I'll post what happens.
  • chats72chats72 Posts: 10
    edited October 2010
    Well, I brought my 2001 JGC into the dealership this morning. I told the service advisor - that the transmission was dragging itself from first into what I assume is third gear. My check engine light was on and the code P1762 showed up on the odometer. All stuff I described here. And that I drove it maybe two hundred miles since this all happened. Maybe two fifty. Oh and I asked him to drop the pan and flush out the fuel and clean the screen.

    Three hours later - he told me that there was a problem with the solenoid. Just as I was told by you fine fellows here on CarSpace. Total cost around 1100 - 1200 bucks and the car would be good as it was before all this happened. Not cheap, but a whole lot better than my AAMCO estimate.

    But, we are not done. The mechanic noticed another problem. Oil was leaking from the rear axle (case?) and dripping onto the brake pad. Need to fix the drip, 'scrape' the pad and do some work on the rotor. Another 1200 - 1300 bucks.

    I asked him if I could put the axle problem on hold until next week. Cash flow isn't what it used to be. Question: Am I taking some problem with safety? I am driving south and back this weekend - about three hours - 250 miles.

    Won't have the car back until tomorrow.

    BTW, I noticed that the dealer was especially slow this morning. Usually there is a line at the bay. I drove in - no wait.

    PS: If you haven't realized yet. I know next to nothing about cars. I was thrown out of 8th grade when they taught a course in very general auto mechanics in my Jr. HS. Oh, and yes, I really appreciate the effort and time you all have given me.
  • My 03 Grand Cherokee for the last 1.5 years has been flipping a check engine light, with that same code. Car would shift out of first/second into higher gears. Only thing I could do was gun it and get the car to 40mph, take my foot off the accelerator and as the rpms dropped, the car would go into 3rd and then accelerate normally. Not so good for the engine etc.

    I had the tranny guy reset the computer and bam, it stopped for 2 months. Now sporadically the same issue happens, but not as bad prior to the reset. I can't tell what it is. He said it was the solenoid, but I'm not so sure. I did add tranny fluid and that seemed to improve the situation.

    The lube guy wants me to flush out the tranny, but I'm worried about doing that. It's like adding a software patch on your computer and then it gets worse. So I'm holding off.

    Always reset the computer on these Jeeps as the dealer will always tell you to replace items, when the computer, dirty sensor etc could really be the problem.

    A dentist always wants to fix your teeth, a dealer always wants perfection in how the car runs. So you have to be careful in spending your money these days on un-needed repairs.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    that sounds a little high as probably just a axel seal
    only bad thing is have to ruin axel bearing to change bearing bout 70 bucks seal 25
    lobor bout 1 hr if need pads on rear other 200 bucks
  • chats72chats72 Posts: 10
    Yeah - big city dealer prices. I'll know more tomorrow.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    You need to fix the brakes unless you are just driving to the store and back. Oil on the brake pads creates uneven braking capability. If you do an emergency stop at 70 mph I doubt you will stop in a straight line.
Sign In or Register to comment.