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Jeep Grand Cherokee Transmission Problems



  • I have a 2001 Grand Cherokee 4.7 with about 74K miles and check engine light comes on with 4 codes read, 732, 733, 734, & 1728 which all relate to the transmission. Anyone else have this and what needs to be repaired? Aamco of course recommends taking down tramission for a look $$$$
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    where did you get codes as cnt find them in the jeep repair manual for the grand ch from jeep

    with that many codes would think of a wire connection loose
  • joewestjoewest Posts: 4
    edited October 2010
    Found the codes online, 732,733, 734 were stated as gears 2,3,4 incorrect gear ratio. Code 1728 was only stated as a chrysler specific code with no detail. thanks for any help. Also, only had 3 codes about a month ago and then check engine light disappeared by itself and then resurfaced with 732 additional this week
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    with that many codes has to be wire or connector

    i have a jeep shop manual and dosent show any of those codes for a 2001 jeep those codes for 2005 liberty which has different trans

    check wire harness that comes from trans
  • Thanks, hope your answer correct. Another site told me code 1728 was HYDRAULIC PRESSURE TEST FAILURE and rebuild "more than likely" but that guy also offered his shop for repairs, don't think he realized I'm in NY and he's in Atlanta. Aamco also told me low fluid, going to check that out and wiring/connectors this weekend.
  • Turns out wiring was ok, have a leaking transmission fluid line tube. Noticed fluid a few months ago, thought it was power steering. Put in 1 quart ATF, looks like it needs at least another, checked hot in neutral. So now my question is how much damage might have I caused if I have driven it for a few months with low fluid? Usually most my trips are 20 miles or less. Can add new tube, fluid, flush and filter, but will it be enough. Thanks.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    only way to tell is to try the cheapest rout first as fluid and line filters cheaper than overhaul 400 verses 3000 know what i mean
  • Repair the leak, add more fluid, and reset the codes. If there was no damage then the tranny should work fine and the codes shouldn't return.
  • ">I have a 2005 JGC with a 4.7 and the 5-45Rfe transmission. Just shy of 64,000 miles. Today I was backing out of the driveway and as I went to shift into drive, there was just a rev of the engine with no power. I tried to shift into reverse, nothing.
    Used the autostick for some lower gears, nothing also.

    There were no check engine lights coming on preceding today or during. I just had complete driveline service at the dealership including a "reflash" of the PCM for smother shifting points. The vehicle had been running great up until today, I am at a complete loss.

    Based on what I have seen on this forum, it could be a bunch of different things. Should I just have my local wrench pull the codes from the TCU if there are any, or try and inspect anything visually that would suggest a linkage issue?

    If anyone can put me on the right track, It would be greatly appreciated.

    It just snowed in Minneapolis and winter is coming!

  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    Check the fluid level. Look for leaks in transmission cooler lines. You could have a broken U joint. You are lucky if it's one of these. Otherwise, I suspect some electronic part has failed.
  • I have a Jeep 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4x4 I6 whose initial problem was the car would not start. I removed the battery and cleaned the terminals and connectors which solved the problem. Two days later, on a trip on the interstate (approx.19 miles), the O/D Off indicator came on, subsequently followed by Trans Over Temp warning light. We pulled off the road, turned the car off and waited 15-20 min. Restarted the car and both indicators were no longer showing. Car runs normal around town but will experience the same if driven over 19 miles. Lately, the Check Gauges indicator appears on startup or when brakes applied—oil pressure gauge is at zero. The Malfunction Indicator light is also appearing. How can tell if this is a electrical/computer vs a real transmission problem?
  • I have a 2006 JGC v8 with 28,000 low miles. Drove fine on Thursday. Started fine on Friday, but when I shifted out of Park, the trans would not engage in any gear. Tried everything, even 4wd. Mechanic looked at it, and they said this is a "known problem" with a technical note on it from Jeep. The tech note says that the trans fluid does not have enough pressure. Solution is to replace all the filters to make sure they are not dirty, causing low fluid pressure, then refill and test it out. I am waiting for mine to get finished, but I am sure this is the same problem you have. Exact same symptoms.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    First check fluid level and check it HOT. You may have a small leak you don't know about.

    Next, if you haven't done it in the last 30K miles, drain transmission and replace filter.

    Look at the transmission cooler lines. They should be bone dry. Replace them if not. Here's why. A leak will affect pressure which will affect flow thru the cooler lines. The fluid may not be getting cooled at an adequate rate.

    If it still overheats, I would disconnect lines at transmission and have them blown out. Maybe it is plugged with a piece of debris.

    Make sure it is not a leak or plugged filter before looking for other reasons. If all is OK, my guess is problem is in the transmission. If you are lucky maybe its a bad temperature sensor somewhere. You would need a voltmeter and a schematic to check temp reading from the trans to make sure electronic module is not giving a false warning. Not easy to do given location of the trans. If trans has external temp sensor like your cooling system, try replacing it.
  • Thanks for the advice. In the end, I had the dealership redo the transmission service on their dime. They discovered that a permanent filter on the tranny had failed causing a loss of pressure with the fluid. They said they had never seen this before. It has been a few days since getting my Jeep back and everything seems fine.

    I guess I can only cross my fingers and hope it keep going in gear.

  • chris258chris258 Posts: 1
    edited November 2010
    I have a 1995 jeep grand chorke larado and replaced the trans filter and it worked fine for 2 weeks know i drove it about 50 miles and the trans started smoking. It wont go into drive or reverse and kills. It has about 180,000 miles. Do I get the trans fixed, sell it off? How much does it usally cost to fix it? please reply with any responces to
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    Let's keep the discussion here so everyone may benefit. Doing otherwise tends to defeat the purpose of a Forum. :)

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • check the chasis earth. give it a good clean, both the chasis and terminal and ensure a good conection and not worked loose. as it sounds like a comon earthing fault, if its not its still a good place to start.
    i would also check and clean the positive conections, the ones at the other end of the batery terminal, another good one to check is the engine to chasis earth lead,
    the only othe electrical conection to check is the earth for the instuments, often found behind the drivers foot trim.
    if this hasn't cured the problem then its a real one. a good place to start there is get the codes read them go from there.
    hope this helps
  • I was plowing snow and got stuck when no forward movement but I get reverse. Any ideas?
  • Is there any easy fix for a 4-wheel shifter thats extremly hard to move to/from any setting?

    It doesnt matter if the vehicle is stopped, moving, in or out of neutral.

    It's a 4.0 with 155k and otherwise running great!

    Thanks in advance for any help!!!
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    According to my 97 jeep shop manual it doesn't sound good:
    Fluid level low, gearshift cable, rear clutch burnt, valve body malfunction, overruning clutch broken, input shaft seal rings worn or damaged, and front planetary failed or broke. Make sure you didn't damage the trans cooler lines/hoses. It would cause you to lose a lot of fluid.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    It sounds like your cable may be out of adjustment. The Haynes manual may have an adjustment procedure. I don't have 4x4 so I can't say anything specific.
  • johnjojohnjo Posts: 11
    edited December 2010
    Hi to you all, I'm new to this forum and also to the Jeep, so need some help with my [her] problem & hopefully as time goes by I can return the favour.
    I live in Devon in the UK and I have just bought a 98 JGC with 106k mls. I knew it was faulty before I bought it, so wasn't stitched up, but I'd always wanted one and this was cheap and otherwise perfect for my needs & pocket, just need to get it sorted out and there’s no better way to get to know your wheels than to work on them.
    So, to pull away I have to select 1st then move to 2nd and if lucky she'd get upto 50mph or so, but only for 1 or 2 mls then loses the trans and the engine revs high [obviously]. Had to stop and select P then move into 1st position, pull away move to 2nd position and more often than not I’d only get to 30mph and then had to start all over again and select P then 1st move off select 2nd and had to keep repeating this to get her home. If I select D she'll pull away [in 1st] but will not change up. Reverse appears OK.
    To sum up, have 1st 2nd & reverse, but nothing else and going from 1st to 2nd is hit and miss.
    Previous owner had changed fluid but only cleaned filter.
    I have done nothing to her, I'll wait until I get some experienced advice for which I will be extremely grateful.
    Have driven several of these but not owned one before and apart from the trans problem this is so comfortable and roomy and from all accounts more solid & reliable than most, especially the straight 6 engine. Many thanks for any help. Regards John
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    edited December 2010
    if prob started after po changed fluid i would pull the trans pan and install new filters and the right fluid wrong fluid will do what you say also has small o ring gasket on filter that if he removed and did not replace could cause the same prob
  • johnjojohnjo Posts: 11
    Hi tuggajb, that doesn't sound too difficult or expensive and it wouldn't be a bad idea anyway. Thanks for the tip about the 'O' ring. I'll try that ASAP and let you know what happens.
    Regards, John
  • i like my jeep i just hit 85000 and now i got a big problem bout 5000 miles ago i took it to a valvoline instant and got the trans fluid changed when i started i up it would not go anywhere and the dummy cluster did not go to the d it lighted up all of them i dropped it into first and then neutral and back to drive and it was fine tuesday i drove it to work and i pulled into the parking lot and shifted into reverse and nothing back to drive nothing later at lunch i went out and it was fine but now a winding noise i drove it home
    and got to my driveway and nothing just winding let it cool down but have not drove it
    repairshop wants to put in tranny anyone know if it could just be the tourque converter
    or ???? went by valvoline they checked level and said its at the recomended level
  • reading the posts i hope its not to late to change fluid and filter ???
    if it is any hints changing out the tranny i have not changed a tranny in a few years and the only ones i have done are late 90's chevy trucks
    i think ill go to valve and have them redo service first
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    edited December 2010
    make sure that they are not using dextron trans fluid in you trans must use the fluid that your manual states

    NOT DEXTRON as not the same as needed

    tony b
  • johnjojohnjo Posts: 11
    Hi Tony, can you tell me what the correct fluid is, as I don't have a manual as yet [Ordered one today],
    Regards & thanks
  • My 2002 Jeep GCL V-8 only has 62K miles on it. I have had nothing but problems with it---although they were "minor" things that needed to be replaced, heater, air, steering fluid pump, a sensor...Then in September, it began to feel like it would "miss" and lurch when accelerating. Engine service light did not come on, but took it in and was told it needed a new transmission. After 10 days in the shop and $2,500 I took it home and it was fine for a few weeks. But drove out of town (4 hours of highway driving) for Thanksgiving and lurching returned and engine light came on. Took it to Midas (I was staying in downtown Chicago) and they ran the scan and said it needed transmission fluid. Drove home without any problem. Three days later on my way to work, missing and lurching again and engine light came back on. Took it back to transmission place and they said they had found a leak and fixed it. Two days later, it is doing the same thing and engine light is back on. I'm about to tear my hair out!!! Or tear someone else hair out!! Any ideas??? Thank you! P.S. I am a single woman who is stupid about cars.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    edited December 2010
    use atf type 3 or better made for mopar
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