Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Did you get a great deal? Let us know in the Values & Prices Paid section!
Meet your fellow owners in our Owners Clubs

Jeep Grand Cherokee Transmission Problems



  • johnjojohnjo Posts: 11
    edited December 2010
    I'll go with the advice here, but can you tell me what the difference is between Dextron & ATF3 or 4. You've recommended type 3 and told me not to use Dextron which I accept, but the link below suggests you should use Dextron so I'd just like to know what the difference is, just out of curiosity.

    Really appreciateb all the help received.
    Regards, John - - 17FtdSlyO
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    dextron has additives that cause the interior drive plates to stick atf type 3 or 4 is the one to use had my oil changed and the shop installed dextron and what a mess had to have mine flushed change my own now
  • johnjojohnjo Posts: 11
    Hi tuggajb, that ties in with another thread where it was said that additives can play havoc with the seals etc:, I'll make sure it's either ATF 3 or 4, never had to be fussy before as the only time I've had to buy ATF was for power steering.
    Regards, John
  • johnjojohnjo Posts: 11
    Hi tuggajb, bear with me on this one, but is it possible to change the filter without changing the oil, reason I ask is I've just spoken with PO and he tells me he has used 'Comma' Mopar compatable with ATF 3/4, but confirms he only cleaned the mesh filter and didn't replace [just refitted] the 'O' ring, also hasn't topped it up since.
    He also said that the box can get 'locked out' causing you to lose all but 1st, 2nd & reverse. He was told that if he disconnected the battery for several hours that that should reset the 'lockout' and everything would be back to normal, but it hadn't worked and that could point to another switch within the box requiring replacement.
    Any thoughts on the above?
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    I am fixing up a 97 JGC for my kid, but the backup lights don't work. Can someome help me pinpoint the location of the backup light switch or whatever mechanism controls the backup lights? Can't find it in the Haynes manual or the shop manual, but it's in the wiring diagram. Thanks
  • johnjojohnjo Posts: 11
    edited December 2010
    Hi, just so I know in case I need to change the Auto box, how many different ones are there for the 1998 GJC [boot hinges stamped 01 98], I ask because I also have a Scooby twin turbo with autobox and when I needed a replacement it had to be exactly the same as the as the one installed. Apparently it's all to do with the connecting pipes & electrics etc. Does the same apply to the JGC or are they all much the same and interchangable.
    Regards & thanks
  • I have a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited and it seems as though the front wheels are not engaged and that it is no longer 4 wheel drive. What could possibly be the problem? It has a QuadraTrak transmission.
  • cor2cor2 Posts: 1
    Hi I have got exactly the same problem. I will be watching for the solution in anticipation.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    edited December 2010
    Check fluid levels and check it HOT. If it's been over 30,000 mi, drop pan and replace the filter. Make sure there are no leaks in trans cooler lines. The trans on my 97 JGC was acting funny. I thought I needed a rebuild. Both trans lines were leaking. They should be bone dry. By luck I replaced them because I was already there replacing the water pump and now the trans acts OK. The leaks will reduce pressure in the line and therefor affect flow. I think this can have some affect. Transmission is still big ? for me, but based on my experience if something about the fluid is not right, it will malfunction in unpredicatable ways.
  • johnjojohnjo Posts: 11
    Not sure if they have exactly what you need, but I found the full 180 page workshop manual for the 98 JGC 42RE auto box, for free, just had to upload a PDF and as I had a few regarding the Jeep, I did, and got it for free, you can pay if you'd prefer and it's quite cheap. Anyway heres the link, good luck.

    Just put what you're looking for in the search bar at the top.
  • johnjojohnjo Posts: 11
    I have a 98 ZJ GC with a 42RE auto box
    Is it possible to fit a Mangefine Filter, if so where?
    Have seen some good reports of these filters and also pics of one fitted to a Vovlo S60 [just a tad different] in-line in an external pipe. Not had a good look under mine yet so not sure even if there is a convenient place.
    Anyone got any experience or suggestions?
  • h2oroweh2orowe Posts: 1
    edited December 2010
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    I have a 97 JGC with 52RE trans. I just replaced both transmission cooler lines. At the trans, the lines connect at the top and they are pointing down. There is very little clearance above. I doubt it would fit there. My engine is 4.0L I6. The lines run along the engine the side of the engine adjacent to top of the oil pan. In front of the the flywheel I think there is plenty of room for a smaill oil filter. On mine, all the oil pan bolts are studs. They are used to hold clips to keep the lines in place so they don't wiggle. You can use them to implement your own clips. Tran lines are metal from front of engine to trans so you'll have to cut them. Don't know about the V8.
  • It seems to get worse the colder it gets. I set for about 5-minutes just shifting from 2 to 4h & back. After that it seemed to work a lot better and the problem hasn't returned yet. Sounds like there is a cable under there that may need lubricated but that may have to wait until warmer weather now.
  • xelvis66xxelvis66x Posts: 77
    edited January 2011
    On the 95 I had there was black box on the drivers side in behind a panel behinde the spare tire. The board inside it burt one of the copper leads and caused one of my parking lights to not work.Also I pull the box open and clearly saw the burn copper on the board. I don't kno if it's the problem but it's worth the look. Good luck.
  • jeep32jeep32 Posts: 1
    I am experiencing problems with the tranny on cold days only (2008 Grand Cherokee 3.7)
    When I start driving, everything is fine and shifts are smoothless, however after driving about half a km, I come to a red light. If i wait for a long time for the light to change and start driving, I can almost take my foot off the brake and the vehicle hardly moves. When I press on the accelerator, the RPM goes high and the vehicle starts lurching, as if accelerating on and off, or seems like the tranny is slipping. I complete the left turn from the intersection and problem is gone for the rest of the told me that the tranny goes into "limp mode" and there is nothing wrong.....I dont believe this.....maybe someone can provide opinion?
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    Computrer controlled transmission. It's 3 years old. They want you to buy a new car. Only thing you can do is check wiring between transmission components and rest of the car. Look for a loose or corroded ground wire. Way over my head.
  • sstradsstrad Posts: 1
    I have an 8 cyl 2005 grand cherokee laredo. The car has always had what I call "surging" problems, sometimes worse in colder weather. Mechanics have no answer. Had tuneup & tran flush 2 yrs ago-did nothing. Someone waiting w me said they got rid of their cherokee because of "surging" issues & bought a compass. Service was never any help. Gas and trani additives seem to help for awhile. The cherokees may be working according to jeep but there is definitely a design problem. This will be my last jeep product-miss my old 87 cherokee & 2000 grand cherokee limited! I may write to Chrysler after this. Good luck.
  • As I said once before on this forum, try stamping violently on the throttle pedal. Mine does the same as yours sometimes when its cold and this seems to cure it. In fact it cured a problem of changing gear when it shouldn't also...
  • My Symptoms:

    1. Ignition/Starter Click, non start Condition.
    2. Lose main power for 10 seconds, and then come back. However car will not start. Trans Over Temp light will flash in main console.

    DEALER REPLACED: First the Ignition Switch, (Same as 1 and 2 above 2 weeks later). Then the Starter. When it wouldn't start again..(this time about 3 weeks)

    I took it back and told em (dealer) that if they said it was the alternator (alt doesn't matter for ignition problems), was going to sue them for the labor and parts allready done. Must have worked. Bottom line, they said when they changed the starter it was all corroded, heavily. (orig bought in MI). So then they checked the wiring harness into the starter and found that it was melted a bit. Therefore if the starter was that corroded, it was possible it sent more amps down the line than normal. They fixed that part of the harness, and since then, no problems. Mind you I never got to see any of the parts, nor fixed it myself... but that seems to have solved me. Ignition... probably ripped off. Starter? I have seen enough of these that tells me that possibly Jeep put on a substandard starter that leads to all these conditions back up the line. Anyways.. still holding breath.
  • i have a 95 laredo and i replaced the tranny in it but still not new i had a problem filling the torque converter but than figured it needed to be in neutral but now it makes a weird clicking noise in it when its trying to shift everyonce inawhile so i let off of it and it will normall shift through it but i can gigure out wat the problem it with it
  • how do u figure out if its a 42 or 43 or wat really would appreciate the tip
  • I just bought a Cherokee for cheap with a trans problem. I have not really gotten into it yet but meanings how this is my first jeep i wanted to ask some advice. During acceleration it does not want to upshift. You press the accelerator down a little ways and you go just fine but when you would think the trans would shift the rpms just climb. you can trick it into shifting when you play with the rpms. get it above 3k and take your foot from the accelerator until the rpms drop blow 1.5k and then put your foot back into it. other than that i am happy with it so far. Any ideas what it might be?
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    According to my 97 jeep shop manual the potential culprits are: throttle linkage or gear linkage stuck or misadjuster, front band out of adjustment, governor component electrical fault, clutch or servo malfunction. Given age of vehicle I would check linkages and adjust band. Believe it or not your trans will do funny things if it's low on fluid. I made that mistake once. My mechanic said you have to check fluid level HOT.
  • nnealnneal Posts: 72
    When it idles, does it idle normally or does the rpm fluxuate.?
  • Just discovered today that when it is in gear and i am at a light it feels like the trans grabs now and then. The rpms drop from the load but the rpms never go above idle. And my fluid level is good. I will look into linkages when i get some light. Thanks
  • Help PLEASE!! Bought my Jeep in July 2008, its a 2005. Had 29,000 miles, now has 69,400. Check engine light came on, said it was the transmission, had that checked & was told its a cell?! Check engine light went off jeep okay. Started to hear a slight vibration, turned off radio and heat to listen and didn't hear but felt something out of the ordinary,just 10 days ago sounded like drivers front tire was going to come off and thought I had a flat tire, a tie rod, (just guessing)stopped @ my mechanics, he took it for a ride, heard the noise, put it on the rack and said I honestly don't know. The noise comes and goes and feels like a "thud" while driving. I'm at my whitts end and don't want to be taken advantage of, being a female. This is my second Jeep, love them but this is annoying and scary. I'm afraid to get on the interstate. Any suggestions ppppppplease.
  • i have had same problem. ive owned it 6 months. it had 30000 when i bought it. at three months it wouldn't start had the trans overtemp code. dealer changed starter it worked for three months then wouldn't start again. now it is a computer module with a price of $650 (parts labor). We will see if this works i get it back weds. it now has 35500 on it. :mad:
  • When driving at around 40mph I am experiencing a stutter. Engine doesn't change RPM, goes away if I speed up or slow down. Any ideas?
  • I'm having the same issue. Did you ever have the stalling problem after getting the shifter bezel replaced?
Sign In or Register to comment.