Honda Odyssey vibration

fsudreyer

I have a 2006 Odyssey ex cloth. The van has 550 miles on it. The vibration has been there since mile #1. I just had the van serviced at Rick Case Honda in Ft. Lauderdale. While I was there, another woman that had a 2005 ex leather was there for the 6th time for vibration. One of my best friends has a 2006 exl-dvd and he has the same problem. This has nothing to do with wheel balancing. After rick case gave me back the vehicle it rode worse at low speeds and slightly better at high speeds. My buddy stayed with the shop manager for 4 hours today. They feel that the tires themselves are the problem. While going 50 mph and light gas the problem is real bad. I let off on the gas at this speed and the problem almost disappeared. This leads me to think that this is a transmission problem or axel problem. Anyone else out there feel this vibration (seat of your pants, not steering wheel) please post here!

jwroby

ref 2006 ex. i have the same problem--took to dealer with 2900 miles they have no clue as to the problem but my clue is a bad transmission so 2 more trips and i envoke the lemon law and replace it this is the most logical thing to do no sense wasting time back and forth

blackexv6

The lemon law is not that easy to win. You will probably end up in court because Honda's mediation department will not admit there is a problem. I am going through it right now for another defect & tried to settle the dispute with Honda myself & no lawyer.

Honda will probably tell you it is a "normal operating characteristic of the vehicle" even though you did not buy it with the defect. They will tell you that cars break-in & exhibit certain characteristics such as supsension noises, rattles, creaks, exhuast noises, etc.

I tried to settle with Honda with a trade my '06 for an '07 & I pay $3,000. They refused. So we are taking the case to court.

This outcome surprised me since Honda always honored their commitment to customer satisfaction, reliability, & quality with my prior 2 Hondas.

I guess since their quality has slipped so much over the years they are spending too much fixing defects.

Did you see the latest class action lawsuit against Honda? Defective transmissions in '99-'03 V6 Honda & Acuras.

skibrain

We have an '05 LX with about 20K miles. If has low freq. vibration and I'm pretty sure it's the tranny - and normal for this vehicle. But I'd love to get some more input from others.

The Ody, for maximizing fuel economy has transmission that shifts up into the tallest gear whenever possible (light throttle, medium speed) and the torque converter locks (again normal, designed to do this) to limit slipping and maximize effeciency.

At the lower rpm, there is vibration that I feel in the 45/50 mph all the way up to about 70 mph. Yep, when you lift throttle it is gone. I typically drive 75-80 on the freeway with ours so it doesn't bug me alot on long trips, but the vibration really bugs me otherwise.

Is that consistent with others experience. Those with the loaded models apparently have some active noise cancelation technology in the audio system - maybe that is Honda's way of dealing with it.

I plan to talk to the dealer about it and see if they have had complaints there or if they have done anything different on the '06 - seems like a simple chip reprogramming could make that lock up less agressive.

fsudreyer

Like I said in my first post, my buddy has the same vibration at lower speeds. trust me, you can feel it all the way down to 25mph. It's terrible. My 04 odyssey did not have that feeling. I have a 07 accord that is like a rock at all (25-120 mph) speeds. My buddy made the service manager pull out an 07 odyssey and it had the same vibration. Honda needs to find the fix on this quick or toyota will not only be overtaking gm in total sales but surpassing the odyssey in minivan sales. :sick:

jwroby

seems to be the logical thing to do but honda has deeper pockets maybe the best is to trade up to toyota or maybe a gm product i purchased what i thought was better quality (from gm) but i see i lost this round

badger10

My wife and I purchased a 2004 new off the dealers lot and about the time the warranty went out (36K) we started having problems with vibrations. You don't really notice it at low speeds but at 55+ it's horrible. I took it back to the dealer and spent close to $1000.00 on it but to no avail. I've put new tires, a new rim (the one was "scratched and bent" but the tires guys didn't say a thing when they put new tires on), front end alignment etc and the dealer said they couldn't find a thing. I'm stuck with it at this point which is really frustrating when I'm still making $500+ a month payments on it. I've heard this from a few others...is there any kind of recall or solution to the problem?

jnt

Is this different from the low frequency humming sound that effects some of new Odys (from Model 05 on)?

Anyway, some of the Odys could have exhaust's A pipe resonant problem at engine speed of 2100-2300 RPM. So that could be 30-40 MPH around town or 65-70 MPH on highway. It feels and sounds like transmission is in the wrong gear. But it is mere exhaust pipe resonating: no mechanical problem with engine or transmission.

jt

blackexv6

If your Honda dealer can't find the problem look for another one. There are very good Honda techs out there. Also, take a used '04 Ody for a test drive from your Honda dealer's used inventory. See if you hear the same noise.

Is the noise constant or does it vibrate when you push the gas pedal?

Possible causes:
1. If the noise is constant then might be bad wheel bearing(s).
2. If it occurs when accelerating around 55mph then it could be the transmission "lugging". Lugging occurs when the transmission is in overdrive at a very low rpm. This is normal to an extent. If it lugs hard then the vibration is transmitted through the engine mounts.
3. Bad engine mounts? Does the engine shake when idling?

The only significant problems that I've heard of on the '99-'04 Odyssey is transmission problems. Mostly the '00 & '01 with the 4-speed trans (there is a class action suit). There were failures on the '02+ 5 speeds but not as frequent.

Hang in there...consider yourself lucky to have an '04. The new '05+ Odys have several design defects that cannot be fixed...the worst being the drone defect & bad engine mount designs.

panmax

" The only significant problems that I've heard of on the '99-'04 Odyssey is transmission problems." The power doors remain a significant problem. Not closing fully, not opening, sticking.

carolynruth

For all of you out there complaining about vibrations. After having other minivans, found most vibrations have to do with the tires more than anything else--not transmission. Transmission defects cause the car not to move ahead. If the van has stiff all season tires, they are rougher than softer touring type tires. Also, UNDER INFLATED TIRES ARE A STRONG REASON FOR VIBRATION & THUMPING ESPECIALLY WHEN BRAKING. After picking up 0ur new car with 75 miles on it at dealer it thumped at braking. Next day on Sunday, the underpressure light came on. Well, the tires were only at 27 lbs. Dealer never checked tires. The car probably was sent with under inflated tires to fit on the carriers better or something. Or the change from summer to winter deflated tires. After putting the michelins to 35 PSI, thump and vibrations went away. We had a 1998 quest and 2002 villager (the smaller ones) and we had the roughness in the middle seats, vibrations with the accellerator & brake, and if we moved the back seat up and took out the middle seats it road much better. We also had a terrible time with Goodyear all seasons they put in, even after the dealer replaced them with new Goodyear tires. We got a set of Bridgestone and the car road smooth all the time. Anyhow minivans are very sensitive to tires and pressure. Just look where the wheels are in the front. You would feel everything especially if their is stiff suspension which Honda is known for. The Sienna is a smoother riding van but so far does not corner and stay level in curvy roads. I have a 2006 Accord 4 cylinder to replace my V6 accord of 1998. I love the 4 cylinder and it is fast enough for me in passing and highway. I fell asleep in back when my husband was driving home after a long trip. We bought the larger minivan because nothing else has the capacity and roominess for traveling even for two or three people. He wanted an All wheel drive SUV, which had good gas, power, and rode smooth. All those were too small (Suburau, CR-V, Rav -4). The large ones were pricey, too high, too much gas. The newer cross over vehicles make you blind in the car with tiny window space, no headroom and inability to judge and smaller engines. We are retiring and unless you get a very large American Sedan which you can not take a kayak or canoe on roof, there is nothing else that takes place of minivan. He thought the larger ones would not fit in garage. Surprise, I pulled it in myself. I watched the mirrors and went in like a charm. Could even judge front better than the villager because car is very squared off. Big windows make very little blind spots. In front is only blind spot on the sides because of the better construction for crashes. Tried other vans--chrysler, toyota, Hyundai, not the quest. Best driving was the Honda. Not the smoothest, Toyota won that. But price was hefty with Toyota because what we wanted most was moon roof and leather heated seats. I have always liked that Honda had the models with certain features. You either take it or leave it. basic, better, better/leather, and loaded. Makes it easier to haggle with the price. We really had trouble in the trade-in value of the villager because it was a mercury/ford product and they went by auction price which was really low although it was loaded. We got 5,000 off in rebates that year and we almost payed it back in the trade in. They calculate the trade-in value with the rebates offered or given. Good to know in the future. Village was loaded too (estate model). Best part is we do not have to take out middle seats, just put back ones in well and have load of space for golf clubs, & suitcases and gear. Not too bad in gas, just as good as the smaller villager, for the size. Smoother and less bouncy than the SUV's. Would have loved it back when my kids were small.

jojobird

The problem is threefold. Those runflats have lots of problems and my Dealer went through 2 sets before finding 4 that were OK, but definitely not perfect.

The other problems are defective motor mounts that causes a vibrationa when the engine is at certain RPMs.The last is an exhaust pipe that emits that droning noise.

I have one of the first '05 Touring and have spent lots of time negoiating with the dealer(s).Honda definitely does not like to admit there are problems with this van.

I'm thinking of keeping it has a around town car because it is so handy and get a Saturn Outlook for those vacations. The outlook is just as roomy and versatile and uses nicer materials and leather, not to mention it is AWD and I suspect will be just as fuel efficient as the Odyssey.

I don't expect reliability to be as good as Honda, but this new car would really have to stink to even approach the Odyssey touring.

I think honda is going to lose market share to this new crossover segment, especially since the American nameplates don't treat their customers like idiots--which I've experienced with Honda.

loyen

I had similar problem on my 05 touring. Turned out the engine mounts were broken

jojobird

Anyone with a '07 or 06 Sienna AWD that can share your experience with this van as far as reliability??

What kinds of issues should I expect?

jojobird

artas

Hi,
I Have 2005 Ody LX-L with VCM with the same issue. Was in dealership in Rockford, IL 4 times (dealership seams to be nice and attentive, but they get no help from Honda except replace this or that). Initallly power steering pump was replaced (was making noise too), but it didn't get rid of main humming-vibration which occures at 1600 and 2100 RPM's (since it is on certain freequencies, I shall call it RESONANCE). Then parts of exaust maniflold and tail pipe were changed - no effect.So I called honda Customer service (I would say customer ditch off) talked with regional manager whose name is Julie Kim - who is completely incompetent in mechanics or physics - probably has degree in political science or liberal arts - zero understanding of the mechanical problem, but great in ditching people off. Requested to give extended warranty since resonance is known to damage things - they don't care. THEY DON'T CARE - even though I own two new Hondas and told that they can loose customer forever. Now I am requesting written statement that sounds and vibrations at certain freequencies (resonance) are usual sounds made by Honda cars, and I shall not give up until I'll get it.
Othervise I like Hondas for their stiffer suspencion and ride, but really not happy with CS.

artas

Hi everyone,
I have droning sounds on my 2005 LX-L. THIS IS STRUCTURAL ENGINEERING DEFECT due to resonance. It occures at 1500-1600 and 2000-2100 RPM especially whem more torque is needed (acceleration, uphill climbing). It will not go away until Honda will change engine mounts or other unknown to me (probably to them too) parts. Changing A pipe reduces the sound, but A-pipe failure is due to the resonance and will happen again and again. The resonance is well known to damage and destroy things. Honda probably doesnt care about it, since damage occures way beyond warranty to other parts (already had power steering pump replaced as well as brakes) probably transmission and other parts.
People, if you in search of new minivan DO NOT BUY HONDA ODYSSEY LX-L (leather with cylinder managment) or Touring - it will give you trouble in future, unless Honda acknowledges the problem and shall fix it. Meanwhile it should give extended warranty on these cars for free as a courtesy and acknowledgment of destructive resonance -humming, vibration.

bob757fl

I too have this problem on my 2005 EX-L. New tires, balancing, rotating, and spending needless money to no avail. My guess is that there will be a class action suit similar to '99 transmission settlement that will extend warranties to 100k or so in the next few years.

tonton26

I am driving a 2006 EX-L with 31,500 miles on it. When I am about 70 - 75 mph and pressed on the brakes to slow down (not abrupt braking), my steering wheel tends to vibrate. I just had my wheels balanced last month so I suppose it is not a balancing issue. Tire pressure is also correct. If anyone has the same problem and has solved it, I would really appreciate the advice. Thank you.

markthomas

I bought a 2005 EX on Tuesday. Noticed the vibration immediately. You say the damage the resonance causes is well known. Please let me know where else it has been documented!!! Thanks very much...

artas

You need to read more physics, especially experiments done by Nikola Tesla. http://www.intuitor.com/resonance/tesla.php is one of websites.

markthomas

:confuse: Hey, artas...I wasn't doubting you...rather I was saying that I am experiencing exactly what you have described! I don't need lessons in resonance, I need more evidence of damage caused by the Honda Odyssey's resonance so I can show it to the dealer (if not use it in court)!! Can you help me out? You've said on another forum that complaints about this are all over the web...can you send me links??

artas

Sorry, I don't have any immediate effects of resonance currently. Those problems will show up later, unless continuously driving in speeds/RPM's when resonance is most prominent (which I try to avoid). I was posting to help people avoid buying the car, I can't help in leagal issues (I can't stand trial lawyers, even if I personally could benefit from it).

ohgrover

There is a TSB on the engine mount (near the firewall)

Service Bulletin 06-083

December 1, 2006

Applies To: 2005–06 Odyssey EX-L – ALL
2005–06 Odyssey Touring – ALL

Excessive Engine Vibration at Idle or Below 2,100 RPM

SYMPTOM
The engine vibrates excessively at idle or, under load,
up to about 2,100 rpm.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The rubber inside the rear engine mount is torn.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the rear engine mount and its mounting bolts.
PARTS INFORMATION
Rear Engine Mount:
P/N 50810-SHJ-A62, H/C 8485906
Rear Engine Mount Bolt, 10 x 35:
P/N 90163-SDA-A01, H/C 7151350
Rear Engine Mount Bolt, 10 x 20 (four required):
P/N 90163-S5A-000, H/C 6462931
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Operation Number: 1121C3
Flat Rate Time: 1.0 hour
Failed Part: P/N 50810-SHJ-A61
H/C 7813967
Defect Code: 02101
Symptom Code: 04505
Template ID: 06-083A
Skill Level: Repair Technician
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty
expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by
the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone
Office. You must request consideration, and get a
decision, before starting work.DIAGNOSIS
1. Raise the vehicle on a lift.
2. Using a .610 mm (.024 inch) feeler gauge, check
for clearance between the rear engine mount’s
rubber bumper and its bracket. Also check the
shape of the rear engine mount.
• If you can’t get the feeler gauge to slide through
the entire length of the rubber bumper and the
engine mount bulges out (is shaped like a donut),
go to REPAIR PROCEDURE.
• If the feeler gauge slides through the entire
length of the rubber bumper and the engine
mount looks slightly deflated, this service bulletin
does not apply. Continue with normal
troubleshooting to find the cause of the engine
vibration.
Engine mount
bulges out.
Feeler gauge will not
slide between the
bumper and bracket.

REPAIR PROCEDURE
1. Take weight off the rear engine mount by
supporting the transmission with a screw jack.
2. Disconnect the connector from the rear ACM
(active control engine mount) actuator.
3. Remove the rear engine mount stop (two nuts) and
the rear engine mount (five bolts).
4. Using five new bolts, install a new rear engine
mount in the reverse order of removal.
NOTE:
• Torque the new rear engine mount bolts to
54 N.m (40 lb-ft).
• Torque the engine mount stop nuts to
73 N.m (54 lb-ft).
5. With the screw jack removed, make sure the
exhaust pipe A bracket is centered in its rubber
mount. If needed, center the bracket by tapping it
with a hammer.
NOTE: Step 5 is not needed if the vehicle was
already repaired according to Service Bulletin
06-050, Droan or Moan When Driving at 2,100
RPM.

artas

Thanks for update. I was told that mount was good and the a-pipe was replaced. It was done last summer, while car was still under warranty. I'll try to call dealership again (they wrote on last service that they will wait until Honda comes with solution, so since vibration started before warranty and it was not fixed, they are obligated to fix it as under warranty, as I asume).

vandykutty

vandykutty

My 2008 honda odyssey EXL making vibration (RPM up and down) when the RPM needle go 5 or up (when I race the engine) is it a problem or not

snakeknuckles

I noticed a resonant vibration in our Odyssey after about 45K miles when cruising at a steady 40mph. Originally, the vibration seemed to be stimulated by road bumps. It almost produced a thumping when tire pressure was very low. Put a new set of tires on and the problem seemed to disappear for a while. It is now back and is best described as a pulsating high frequency vibration which occurs in a narrow speed range around 40mph. I took it back to the tire shop where they re-balanced tires with no effect. I don't think my dealer knows how to spell vibration... Any clues as to how to repair? Also I notice a droning noise on acceleration at speed that I don't recall always being there. Thanks for any input.

rockfly

I am having the same problem. I have brand new tires and they have been balanced twice due to the weights on one of the wheels falling off, but I still get the vibration at highway speeds. I am taking it in to Honda (again). Let me know if you find anything out.

carman124

I have a 2007 Odyssey EX-L with a similar problem. 11,000 miles and recently encountered a steering vibration between 65-70mph. Road bumps trigger the vibration and when I hit more bumps the vibration stops. I hit more bumps and the vibration re occurs. The road bumps act as the on and off switch to the vibration (very strange).
I also have the droning noise between 47 and 52 mph. Was told by Honda that it's normal.
You can also feel every downshift of the transmission as well. (45mph..35mph.. 25 mph 15 mph until the vehicle stops) I now shift it in neutral when cruising to a stop so I don't feel the annoying down shifting.
How about spongie brakes??? The pedal nearly goes to the floor when stopping. (again, Honda says it's normal)
As you can probably tell, I am very disappointed in this van. This is my 6th Honda purchase and you can bet my last!!

hester

I had a similar vibration problem with my 05 EX-L. It shook at 40mph and 1500 rpm in top gear. I thought it was a trans. They pulled out TSB 06-083 and replaced the motor mount. It has 69K on it but fortunately I have an extended warranty. It cost me the deductible.

mike_v2003

We experienced on a trip smoke and a burning smell coming from the radio in our 03 odyssey. We had the Air on and climbing in the mountains right after a stop when this occurred. When I pulled over to check, no signs of burning or blown fuses, and all options were working. No other problems after 450 miles. Any thoughts?

monkeymunchkin

2008 Honda Odyssey - this vehicle has a low droning sound, the droning sound is most prominent when cold and in reverse or cold in gear and stopped (this droning sound can be recreated anytime by placing the vehicle in drive, pressing the brake down and bringing the rpm to 1000). Once the vehicle warms up it isn't as bad but still present and annoying.

The vibration seems to occur every time the transmission drops into 5th and you remain at a steady speed/load at 1500rpm.

There is also a slight engine shake when in park at idle all the time regardless of temperature.

The transmission seems a little harsh when downshifting, it seems to hesitate and then drop into gear causing the vehicle to jerk slightly.

Can anyone comment on these concerns? Have other 2008 Odyssey owners experienced the same issues and is the a fix I can pass onto my dealer as it has been in 3 times with NO PROBLEM FOUND.

wertzee

Hester, I have this same exact issue on an 07 Touring I just bought with 27k miles. Did replacing the motor mount completely fix the issue?

BTW this is good for a laugh, I contacted the former owner of this vehicle asking what they knew about this vibration, and they told me that the dealer told them they should always drive with overdrive off. Their gas mileage must have sucked.

hester

It turns out that did not fix the problem. The torque converter was the problem. Fortunately, I have the extended warranty. Honda just put in a new trans.

paulcodd

I own the EX-L platform of the 2005 Honda Odyssey and had no complaints until about 90K. I experienced the vibration issue posted all over the internet and yes had the broken rear engine mount replaced. The dealership and local honda representative made a number of concessions to reduce the bill to just under $200. It's been about a month since the repair and I still have some vibration issues around 40 mph (1800-2100 rpm), also at higher speeds around the same rpm level. The dealership can not find the issue after two revisits. I notice more in the morning (cold engine). Any advice?

wertzee

Wow. no kidding...I could totally see it being the torque converter. It definitely feels like the transmission is trying to downshift gears and it just can't. It will finally downshift if I give it enough gas.

Just trying to gather some ammunition before I take this van in. If they don't drive it right they may not feel this vibration at the dealer.

I have the extended warranty too but I'm not even to 30k yet. At least if they have to replace the tranny I will get rental car reimbursement with the extended warranty.

poocat

We have a '06 EXL with VCM and it does the same thing. The droning sound comes from the A-pipe. It was way worse before we had it changed, it used to drone really loud at 2100 rpm. The also change out the mounting bracket and hanger to a different one. Now it drones as you described. The vibration is also the same with ours. In other forums they describe this as lugging, it basically has something to do with the gearing in the transmission being so high. For saving gas at cruising speeds, but in the 1500 rpm range the car just isn't going fast enough or the rpm is too low for the gearing and it lugs or vibrates. As soon as you give it a bit of gas or hit the button to shift to D3 the vibration goes away. The '08 should already have the new A-pipe and hanger assembly. I think yours also has a different transmission than mine but it seems like the same problem still exists. One other thing I should mention is that we notice a slight vibration in the steering wheel when sitting at a stop light in "D" with the brake on. Then when you drive off the vibration is more pronounced and the whole steering wheel rumbles. You can really feel the vibration when you put your thumb on the gap between the steering wheel and the air bag cover on the bottom of the steering wheel. We had the rear engine mount replaced but it didn't do anything, the same vibration is still there.

vlentz

I just posted the same problem. The dealer states that it is normal. I can tell you that I get the vibration/noise as soon as it drops into fifth gear. It seem that most of my driving is between 40 and 52 mph and that's where it is most prominent. I also complained about it dropping gears harshly. (normal) Do you notice that it gears down until you're almost stopped and then free wheels causing you to get on the brakes harder just before the full stop? Seems like it almost "steeds up" just as you get to the full stop.

blackhonda1

I have an 05 odyssey touring. Have severe vibration in steering wheel at speeds 65-72 and also 45-57. Have taken to 2 honda dealerships with a total of 22 visits concerning this problem. Have been without my van for 42 days since purchase on 9/2006. Trying to seek legal council-- but no luck there yet. Sent several letters with no luck, but did rec. a reply from Honda Japan. No help there either! Requested Honda to buy back my van-- but being put off!! Any suggestion will be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

mooger1

Our honda had the same droning noise that drove me crazy, after months of concern our local mech. discovered a small noise by rotating the front wheels with the van on a hoist. He said he did not think a wheel bearing would cause the noise but would change the one making the noise if I wanted......The rest is history he changed the front drivers wheel bearing and the noise is completely gone......forever. I had already had the engine mount changed with no luck there..We have had our van for two years and I really like it alot, its far from perfect but i think it's still the best choice..To All who are having the droning noise please have them check the front wheel bearing that noise will drive you crazy and ruin your driving experience, take care and good with your honda van

wertzee

No I haven't noticed that, monkeymunchkin. To be clear, my issue is more of a "shudder" that starts and stops. Only lasts about a second, then occurs again if the conditions are right. For example it won't occur when going downhill at 40-45 mph but when I start a gentle uphill that is not steep enough for it to have to downshift, it will occur over and over. And the rpm gauge pops up and down a few hundred rpm.

ee4life

You will need all of these references to help you. Start with the TSB and 5 part article series....then the tech line summary, if needed. Ask that the technician follow them to the letter.

http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/A04-066.PDF

http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/TS/ATS050605.PDF

Refer to these Honda Service News for a 5 part article series on Excessive Steering Wheel Shimmy and Chassis Vibration:

Part 1 of 5
http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SN/A071000.PDF

Part 2 of 5
http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SN/A071100.PDF

Part 3 of 5
http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SN/A071200.PDF

Part 4 of 5
http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SN/A080100.PDF

Part 5 of 5
http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SN/A080200.PDF

Good Luck!

blackhonda1

Thanks for the info! I am going back in tomorrow for my 23rd visit to the dealership. I have been told that the wheel hub and nuts will be replaced. They have already replaced the wheel and tires 2 times, installed a new exhaust pipe, brakes, calipers, rotars.. (hope I am spelling this all correctly). Dealership stated a Field Engineer would be coming out-- but now getting the complete run around on this subject from Honda Customer Service & dealership! This vehicle had it's first issue with the vibration at 5628 miles. This vehicle has not lived up to the "Honda Standard" that I have encountered with 5 other owned Hondas. I appreciate the response and information!

gmm1

Wertzee,

I also have a 2005 Odyssey EXL and am experiencing the same shudder / vibration when gently accelerating at 1500 - 1800 RPM in the 35 - 40 MPH range. After reading these threads, I called the dealership and told them others have experienced this and they found it to be the torque converter. The dealership said the Check Engine light should be on. Mine is not. Did your check engine light go on when the shudder / vibration occurred? I don't have an extended warranty and have over 70,000 miles on mine so I'm trying to get Honda corporate to cover but the dealership said the Check Engine and its accompanying code would be needed to get corporate to cover.

gmm1

Hester,

I also have a 2005 Odyssey EXL and am experiencing the same shudder / vibration when gently accelerating at 1500 - 1800 RPM in the 35 - 40 MPH range. After reading these threads, I called the dealership and told them others have experienced this and they found it to be the torque converter. The dealership said the Check Engine light should be on. Mine is not. Did your check engine light go on when the shudder / vibration occurred? I don't have an extended warranty and have over 70,000 miles on mine so I'm trying to get Honda corporate to cover but the dealership said the Check Engine and its accompanying code would be needed to get corporate to cover.

wertzee

Mine is not on. I have not taken it to the dealer yet because I am trying to make sure I have all the ammunition I need before I go there and have the dealer try to tell me the vibration is normal.

I will be taking it soon and I will let you know if they diagnose it as the torque converter. This would be good evidence for you if they do diagnose it as torque converter. If so I will try to get them to document that the check engine light was not on and I will send you a copy.

arekay1

Pretty sure I have the same problem - started 3 weeks ago - the first sign was after starting the engine I notice a droan and slight vibration - that continues to exist.
Later I experiened a "shudder" in the 20-30 mph range... after being in a gentle cruise and applying a slight load to the engine (pretty sure ECO is active) the reduced power and lower gear cannot deliver the needed torque - so a rapid shudder develops until all cylinders kick it. Felt like misife, or driving over a washboard - a second or two and the shudder is gone but there is still a definite vibration from the engine.
Had the plugs and the transmission fluid changed with zero improvement.
Had a transmission guy test drive it - car acted up beautifully - but he didn't believe it was transmission since the vibration is apparent at stand still - get the vibration looked at.
Test drove it with a Honda mechanic on board - couldn't make the car act up - but he did notice the vibration - also said he has a current complaint from 1 other Odyssey owner but does not yet have a solution. He suspects it could be an issue with the electronics / VCM program.
Took the car on a long hwy trip yesterday - car runs better at hwy speed but that is because the symptoms less apparent. Its amazing how often the vehicle is in ECO mode - with cruise on I could feel an engine vibration - then given the right uphill grade (slight load on the enginer) the vibration would drop and I noticed every time that the ECO light would turn off within a half second. Seems to me that the VCM program is messed up - as is regular ignition since it is not like it used to be. I have no fault codes. Perhaps if the computer is sending bad instructions - then it doesnt have the right info to create a fault code. A few more days of shudder and I'll be going back to Honda -or maybe future shop to buy Norton antivirus :confuse:

gmm1

Wertzee and Arekay1,

We all have the same problem. You both have described the issue and conditions in which we get the shudder / riding over washboard feeling under light acceleration in the 1500 - 1800 RPM range between 30 - 40 MPH, up a slight grade. Won't happen going down a slight grade. You both have a 2005 EX-L right? I have 71,000 miles on mine.

I went to the dealership today and had a mechanic ride with me...guess what??? IT DIDN'T HAPPEN! How frustrating is that? So the service manager said to leave the car and they'll have a tech take it out a few times. I didn't want them tearing the car apart to diagnose, because they "have never heard of this issue". That would cost me $$$. He said he would go to bat for me with Honda corporate if it is the transmission...My question is if this is a transmission problem, is this just a nuisance or will the car fail at some point?

arekay1

Yes an '05 EX-L with 65000 mi. Because of the vibration I experience while in park...with little or no transmission influence, and my experience at hwy speed where the vibration diminishes considerably when the engine leaves ECO mode - I totally rule out transmission at this point.
If it was transmission the symptom would be the same in normal mode as in ECO mode - also the transmission service tech who drove my car did not think transmission was the cause - not to mention that transmission slip would generate a fault code. To me its like a timing issue - and since there is no timing - only a program, I think its computer related. It wouldn't be the first time a computer needed to get replaced on a car. The other thought is that the hardware devices (whatever they may be) which are used to control the VCM are faulty.

vlentz

I just saw a different dealer about the vibration. Had a service rep ride with me. He said that he felt the vibration and stated it kicks in when overdrive kicks in. He didn't know if it was normal or not. When we returned to the dealership the service manager handed me a printout stating that they "couldn't reproduce the problem". The rep absolutely said that he could feel it. When I questioned it they "dummied up"
On the way home I got a call from American Honda on my cell. They said that they opened up a folder on my car and were going to send me to the dealer that I just left. What's that about? If they didn't know that I was just there why did they call my cell? I called my wife at home and they hadn't called my home phone.
American Honda suggested that I ask the original dealer to schedule a test ride with their factory rep. which is supposedly on the property once a month.
My opinion is that they don't want to do anything about the problem. I only bought this car six weeks ago and it only has 3000 miles on it. I have to drive it for at least five years hating the way it drives. Also, I feel compelled to buy an extended warranty now. With this vibration something has to fail eventually.

blackhonda1

Thanks for the info (ee4life). Well, I went back for the 23rd visit at the dealership. I had the Hub assembly, Bearings, and R/L knuckle replaced. The shimmy is still there-- not as sever as it was, but it always seems to progress over a few days. I just received a call from the SM at the Dealership and now Honda wants to replace the Transmission. I still have the whining noise from the steering-- fluids checked out ok. Now, all the steps from the bulletin you posted have been completed with the issue still left to resolve. I have been requesting a Field Engineer for assistance with this matter for the last few months. No luck there-- and only if Tech Line has no other options/things to replace that could be causing this. This has been a nightmare to deal with over the course of 1.5 years! Thanks again for the info-- as it is greatly appreciated!