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Mazda 626 Starting Issues



  • check engine light on-according to owners manual this indicates an electrical problem, ROOM fuse problem or that gas cap is not on tight.. We've ruled out fuse and gas cap. Checked plugs, fuel pump -both fine.
    Bought car privately-used; first problem we noticed with car was interior light seemed to not work-replaced bulb, worked about 3 days then went off again-bulb did not blow-a few days later light started working just fine and have had no problems with it since (in checking the ROOM fuse I noticed that this fuse controls that light also). A week ago temps at night got into the 20's, next morning car had a hard time starting but it did start and had no problems for a few days. The last couple of days it's been a bit hard to start and yesterday my wife was leaving work, it did not want to start-she pushed gas to make sure it was getting fuel-could smell it too. It finely started for her, very roughly but after a couple of minutes it evened out and gas smell went away.
    the belt has squealed when starting since almost the beginning of having it, but belt seems to be fine. Did have a mechanic check out the car before buying it--mechanics only, not electrical and everything checked out at the time.
    Does this sound like a timing chain problem, ignition or what?? don't have the cash to have it tested on the computer or to have it towed to a shop to begin with.. Hoping to be able to fix it at home. :( :confuse:
  • I have a 2001 Mazda 626 V6. This is my second Mazda and I got 200K with my first. I'm now at 106K miles and recently had the timing belt replaced (but not the water pump). Right after that the harmonic balancer actually broke so that was replaced. Had a high pitch squealing right after that and the check engine light began blinking- solid - blinking. Took into my mechanic and they replaced the alternator belt (which they should have done the first time - they only charged me for the belt this time) They reset the light but the light never went out. Car is running fine misfires at all even though the code said spark plugs and catalytic converter. Had problems with gas cap previously and replaced with a cheap Murray gas cap. I'm also smelling gas now (although it could be my imagination at this point since I'm paranoid) Shop said to drive car for a week and see if the light "cycles through". It has not and is still blinking and solid. AT this point I've spent $800 on my car and I have no more money. IS it spark plugs? Room Fuse? crankshaft position? Reset engine computer? If it's catalytic converter I am screwed....please help.
    Texas Chick
  • update, we had the car towed to the dealer. They tried to get us to buy a used engine-said the head gasket was blown. That was fixed, timing belt replaced (which is what was squealing), oil pump was replaced. Driving fine and then last week the check engine light came on again, still driving fine though-have $176, 000 miles on this car. Took it to a car shop had it checked by hand held computer-says it's the emissions control causing the light to come on, turned light off-that lasted about 3 days, light is on again-still driving just fine. Will have it checked again on Tuesday and maybe take to the dealer or another mechanic to see what the exact problem is and how much it will cost. Already spent $1404 and really don't have the cash to repair any more right now..
  • starr101starr101 Posts: 1
    i have a 1995 mazda 626 v6 nd it will not start it turns over nd evrything but wont start any help :sick:
  • My 626 started the same problem last night will be taking it to shop this week will let you know results. have a feeling it is a ground problem.
  • try ingtion relay under hood drivers side relay located in black blx by firewall.
  • think i found your problem under the hood drivers side on the wheelwell by the firewall is a black box in that box is a 100 amp fuse will look normal even when bad put a lite probe to both ends of it if lites up on one side only that is your prolberm it controls all power to whole car.
    good luck.
  • problem was that the relatively expensive after market harmonic balancer did not work for my car. The only thing that fixed the problem was buying the actual Mazda part for big $$$. At least my service guys only charged me a fraction of the original labor price and allowed me to pay over several months. Apparently the "teeth" on the other part did not line up perfectly and we tried two different brand of aftermarket parts - only the Mazda part worked. Have since replaced my third Radiator overflow tank. These things are pieces of crap.
  • car wont run at all was starting it with starting fluid ,had a slow charger on it and have been cranking it ,thought maybe i damaged something for it will not turn over no more any suggestons what to try .in a real bind and all with figuring it out without a test
  • Well none of this is going to be good news.
    First never use starting fluid under any circumstances it drys out the heads and cylinders, after awhile the engine becomes dependent on it to start.
    Cheapest option now check how much amps starter is pulling.
    If starter does not even click need to see if it is getting power to it.
    Other then that I hate to say this but using so much starting fluid you more than likley locked the engine up.
  • after fixing the original problem we almost got through 2012 without any major problems. Now the check engine light is on or blinks; the car started cutting off when stopped at lights, waiting to turn, etc. Adjusted the idle but that hasn't really helped a lot. Have tried changing the air flow control sensor and the air flow control valve-so far that; cleaned the throttle, checked plugs .. any suggestions?? :confuse:
  • I haven't had this problem but check the top oxygen sensor and the fuel injectors.
  • Crank no start problem with 98 Mazda 626 4 cylinder. Will not start with starting fluid. I've changed coil pack, fuel pump, crankshaft and camshaft sensors, plugs and wires and still.... no start. I just recently got into the timing and found that it was not correct so I changed it. Finally, it started and sounded better than ever as it stayed running for about a 30 seconds then sounded as if it ran out of gas. I put gas in and it still will not start so I took the plugs off and they were wet. It seems to be flooding excessively more than anything I've ever seen. Can anyone tell me.... what would cause that to flood so easily and quick. I should mention that this flooding has been happening the whole time I was changing parts and trying to fire it up. Can anyone give me some direction here as I am at my wits end
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