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GMC Sierra: Problems & Solutions



  • ricschricsch Posts: 540
    Would be nice to have grease zerks on the shackles and spring eyes to rid the squeaks.
  • tspruittspruit Posts: 1
    This is a bit odd, but I just purchased a 2001 Sierra and upon driving home from the lot realized that the owners manual was missing. I called the dealer and they are sending me the manual but I'm concerned that they may just send me the manual without anything else that should be in the glove compartment. Could someone just tell me what they received upon purchase? Usually I think there is a fake key and other accessories. Thanks.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    is the notification of lemon law.
  • lariat1lariat1 Posts: 461
    When you leave the dealer you should have one copy of every paper that you signed or read along with the window sticker from the truck, all that should be in a folder then in the "book" there should be the owners manual, warranty info, tire info, service schedule, roadside assistance card, and more than likely several other little pamplets that pretty much take up space. And yes Oby the lemon law stuff is normally in there to, lets hope you dont need that though.

    Have fun with your new truck!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • volkejvolkej Posts: 108
    It sounds like you might have the piston problem that GM is now dealing with.
    According to my dealer, oil is getting past the rings and causes carbon deposits on the pistons. You get the clattering sound when you do cold starts.
    GM is supposedly working on a fix, but it's 4 to 6 months away. It will probably mean new pistons, but knowing GM they'll probably give you a lifetime supply of carbon removal treatments.

  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    So I have been following all the fixes and adding a few of my own to the nerf bar creaking problem. Apply a fix, creak comes back after a couple of days. Finally got under the truck and really started checking things out. Well, the little brace at the rear of the bar on the passengers side was not formed quite right and when tightened down it put a side force on the rear bracket. After a few days this would cause the bolt to pull into the body mount and start creaking when putting the body/frame into a flex condition. So, I loosened everything, lined it back up and put a spacer between the small bracket and the large mounting bracket so that when the small bracket was tightened down it did not deflect the large bracket. Two weeks and no creaks. Sheesh, you think it wouldn't be that tough!!!

  • weanmanweanman Posts: 1
    Has anyone had their truck checked out for this ?
    I did check and replace my rear drive shaft u-joints at 44k miles,which were bad it helped cut down the frequency of the light but still getting it .also it won't go into 4x4 high or low when this happens.but will go into auto 4x4.also it will clear itself if I shut the truck off then on.
    thank's Dean
  • doneildoneil Posts: 11
    Has anybody had problems with factory installed General Ameri-660 16" tires? At 15,000 miles, all four tires were showing small cracks between the treads on my 1999 Sierra. The tire dealer did not want to deal with it, so I took them to my GMC dealer. After contacting General Tires, the dealer replaced all four with identical replacements. Since that time, I heard a news report indicating that this tire was being recalled. Has anybody heard anything similar?
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    I went through 4 sets of Generals within a 5 month period. Each time, General sent a new set to my dealer for replacement. After awhile I got tired of it so I traded for some Michelin LTX M/S 275/70R16 which is a slightly larger tire. My dealer gave me the wholesale price of the General tires as trade and charged me wholesale for the Michelins. Generals were $25 each and the Michelins came out to $95 each and the dealer picked up the tab on the mounting and balancing.

    The General tires you have on your truck now are worth $25 new. Is that the kind of tire you want to be driving around on? Get rid of them.
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    wonder how much the fstones are then $10?
  • modvptnlmodvptnl Posts: 1,352
    Discount Tire wouldn't give me ANYTHING for the steeltex(sp?) that were on some of the Super Duties. They did give me $65 a piece toward full retail on the Goodrich A/T KO tire for the Generals. That's why I INSISTED on the Generals when I left the dealer. My first stop from the dealer was to Discount Tire!!!
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    I took got $0 for my fstone AT's

    I had 10K on them when i switched to LT285 BFG All terrain TA ko's

    Much better tire

    I do have 1 fstone left in case i go back to 265's ill use it as a spare. Its sitting in my grandpas garage.
  • modvptnlmodvptnl Posts: 1,352
    the first stop is the tire store. I figure it will be the cheapest time to upgrade to a tire I really want anyway. On the '96 F150 the first stop was Dick Cepek. Had the built suspension, Weld wheels and A/T's before the truck had 30 miles on it!!!
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    so what do you do if you get a flat? with the spare being at grandpa's and such
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    My spare 265 is at my grandpas

    I have a 285 under the truck (just put it back under there this past weekend)
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    thought you were selling it? Tried ebay?
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    that was a joke

    I took a pic and said it was for sale but im gonna keep it just in case i go back to 265's or someone i know needs it (what are friends for hehe)
  • sujersujer Posts: 2
    any advice would be appreciated. I have a 2000 sierra 2wd with 17000 miles have general 660 tires which have been replaced by the dealer am still getting a vibration from the rear dealer said no problem with driveshaft or u-joints, what is my next step ?
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    and not show it physically. Also the rear disk brake and pads. Or it may just be those lovely General tires. If your current dealer is in a state of denial, I would definitely go to the next one down the street. BTW, at what speed or condition does this vibration occur.
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastPosts: 1,594
    These are some information on a couple things I read thru the posts and saw that may interst some of you.

    Driveline Vibration/Growl Noise (Reprogram PCM) #99-07-30-024
    Driveline Vibration/Growl Noise (Reprogram PCM)
    2000 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Utility and Pickup Models (Silverado and Sierra)

    with 4.8 L or 5.3 L Engine (VINs V, T -- RPOs LR4, LM7)

    and Hydra-Matic 4L60-E Transmission (RPO M30)

    Some customers may comment about a driveline vibration/growl noise at speeds between 56-80 km/h (35-50 mph) with low engine speeds.

    Engine torsional vibration when the torque converter clutch is engaged at low engine speeds, 1100-1400 RPM, can excite various driveline components. These driveline disturbances can cause noises and vibrations that the driver may feel and/or hear.

    Reprogram the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) with the calibrations listed in this bulletin.
    Front Suspension Coil Spring Noise (Install New Coil Spring Insulators) #99-03-08-002A
    Front Suspension Coil Spring Noise (Install New Coil Spring Insulator)
    1999-2000 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Models (Silverado and Sierra 2WD 1500 Series)

    Some owners may comment about front suspension noise. The noise may be described as a "bong" or "clunk" noise. The noise may be more noticeable when driving slowly over bumps or backing the vehicle out of a driveway.

    The front coil spring contacting the frame may cause this condition.
    A new front coil spring insulator has been developed to correct this condition. Install a new insulator (1) to the top of both front coil springs.
    Steering or Front End Road Induced Vibration (Install and Reinforce Revised Steering and Suspension Components)
    1999-2000 Chevrolet and GMC C1500 Pickup Trucks (Silverado and Sierra)

    Built Prior to the Following VINs
    Body Series

    Fort Wayne, IN



    Pontiac, MI


    Oshawa, ON

    Canadian dealers require PRIOR District Service Manager approval to apply this bulletin.
    Some customers may comment on a steering wheel or front end vibration.
    Several components in the front end steering and suspension work in unison to isolate the driver from road irregularities and from road/tire induced vibration. If any of these components are not working effectively, it will affect the other components of the suspension and steering system. Tire and road vibrations may be transmitted to the passenger compartment and steering through the rack and pinion unit. Additionally, the mounting points of the steering rack on the front frame crossmember may be amplifying any road vibrations.
    In order to dampen unwanted vibration from the steering wheel, the following revisions must be performed:

    The tires must be in accordance with Corporate Bulletin Number 99-03-09-002 published August, 1999.
    The steering rack must be replaced with a revised rack.
    The left front steering rack mounting point must be reinforced.
    The lower control arms must be replaced with units incorporating a revised bushing.
    The power steering (PS) pump metering valve must be replaced with a revised fitting.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    replace the rack and pinion TSB. Can you imagine having to change your rack and pinion on a new truck. You would think it's grounds for buyback wouldn't ya. BTW, it's works 50% of the time or less as ths owners who have done it have pursued buyback as it didn't really solve the front end/steering vibration.

    The first TSB to reprogram the PCM can be called the solution for the driveline growl. You can find the updated software solution by going to this site and entering your VIN.

    BTW, the recalibration doesn't work either. All it does is force the truck to downshift faster when depressing the gas pedal. The truck will still lug and cause the driveline growl at 38-42 mph.

    How do I know all of this......been there done that. And yes, you do need the GM district reps approval to change out the rack and pinion which BTW, is harder than pulling your own teeth.

  • jsmisekjsmisek Posts: 16
    Hey guys, I finally had my wheels and tires performance balanced on a hunter machine. Two of the four rims and tires balanced out great. One of them balanced out so-so, and one of the rims and tires would not balance out at all. The dealer tried spinning the tire on the rim and other methods, but could not quite get a true balance. The tire store that sold the rims and tires to the dealer put the same defective rim and tire on his machine, and it showed that it was way off. The tire store wants to try a hubcentric adapter on the wheels I have to see if the vibrations go away. If this does not cure the problem, he is willing to let me select a new style of replacement rims. I told him I was tired of "jacking around" with this problem and would like to get different rims because I have a defective rim. Anyway, the adapters are on order and should be here on Thursday. I do not feel this will cure the problem, I still have one rim and tire that will not balance out! I will keep you informed on my progress.
  • sujersujer Posts: 2
    the vibration starts at 62 mph thru about 75 mph, also tires & rims were balanced on a hunter foced balancer
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    i would look at getting rid of those tires. The sidewalls are totally flimsy as compared to other brands, not to mention the lightness in weight of the tire.
  • jdgoatjdgoat Posts: 19
    After reading through all the posts it appears I have the infamous tapping problem with my 5.3. Any suggestions on what I should do next with my dealer who claims it's normal for the truck? I have 24,000 miles on the truck. Since there is no fix should I request a certain service or ask for a longer warranty? I'm in the dark on the next step to take, if there is a next step. Thanks for any help.

  • nerdnerd Posts: 203
    My '00 Sierra has the same problem. The dealer said the sound is due to piston slap caused by a piston design flaw. He said that GM plans to provide new pistons beginning early next year and that the dealer will install them in the engine. (Ford provided new or remanufactured engines when they had the problem). I don't plan to accept this option since I don't believe a dealer has the tools and expertise to do the job well.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    from what I understand they won't be coming out with new pistons. Nor will they do anything about it, cause "all the trucks do it". So, jdgoat, do you have it documented as to what GM plans to or not to do about your problem? given them any opportunity to correct the problem? Cause, for one, you need to have it identified by the dealer and give them the opportunity to repair it. If the deny any problem exists, then proceed directly to BBB online and file a complaint against GM. You will get a phone call from a guy in Florida whose name I'll omit for now and he will tell you that under no circumstances would GM buy back the truck (it's what he's paid to do).

    The BBB will contact you and ask if you would settle for anything less than and outright buyback. At that point, you may ask for the extended warranty as a negotiating point. GM will ususally agree at this point cause it really costs them nothing but paper to give it to you.
  • volkejvolkej Posts: 108
    obyone - The service advisor at the dealership where I had the problem diagnosed told me the likely fix was to change the pistons. It was written on the service order that the problem existed and that a change was in works - probably 4 to 6 months.
    It may be a rumor, but some Chevy dealerships are acknowledging the problem in writing.

  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    I wonder how do you go about determining that it is the piston and what piston are they about to change to? Time will tell on this one. What do you feel about your dealer tearing your motor apart and replacing your pistons when simple things cannot be verified. Is this a can of worms, a nightmare waiting to happen?
This discussion has been closed.