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GMC Sierra: Problems & Solutions



  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    Thanks for posting your repair... hopefully this will both save other owners some headache, and alert techs to an easier fix.
  • From everything I've seen on the internet, and in these forums, the 'piston slap' problem on GMC's 6.0 liter engine occurs when the engine is cold, and goes away once the engine is warm.

    My 2001 GMC only knocks when it's operating at normal temperature, usually around the 50 - 60 Kilometers per hour mark, or when hauling something (like my 5th wheel). I don't think it's a piston slap issue, but am very worried about the noise. Any ideas what it could be?
  • the website for this and all other types of vehicles free remote programming is
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    It could be just engine pinging due to low octane fuel being used. Try some premium fuel and see if it disappears. When these truck engines are under substantial load, such as towing heavy trailers, they perform a lot better with higher octane.
  • THanks. I'll try that. What about using an octane boostr such as 108?
  • :confuse: :sick:
    I have a 1994 GMC pick up w/ a 350 rebuilt engine. Started making a fluttering noise under the driver's side. I think I have an exhaust leak at one of the gaskets. I have never replaced an exhaust gasket before. Can anyone offer advice or a good manaual or site with advice on how to repair. It doesent look extremely difficult. Would it be better for me to pay a profrssional exhaust guy to replace it. Any idea on cost? Thanks!
  • My 20021500 HD 6.0 4x4 crew cab makes this buzzing sound that sounds like an electric motor noise from the back of the truck after it is running a while at 30-50 mph. It comes and goes for a few seconds at a time. I had the fuel pump replaced at the dealer but it still makes this noise. I use the truck for long trips sometimes when towing into remote areas so I really can't afford to get stuck. Any ideas?
  • I have a 96 Sierra 4x4 350. Similar problem. Once in a while
    it would start and I would put it in drive, go two feet and
    it would die. It would not crank again. I would hear a buzzing noise under the dash when I would turn the key to the start(not crank) position. Lights would flicker on the
    dash, speedometer would go up to 30mph. Usually after 5 minutes of turning the ignition key, pushing in any wire connectors I could reach, pressing on brake pedal, shifting
    gears, it will eventually start again. Sometimes it will
    stall right back out again, other times I'm ready to go.

    One weird thing that happened last time, I thought the radio
    got fried. There was no lights on the radio after I turned
    it on and no music. I did check the fuses, but that was ok.
    The truck failed again today, after I got it running, not sure what I did, but now the radio works fine.

    Any help would be great. This weekend i'm going to try to
    inspect all electrical connections. I already checked all
    fuses inside the truck and under the hood.
  • I have a 96 Sierra 1500 4x4 5.7
    Once in a while(about every 2 weeks) I have the following starting issue.
    It starts fine, but once I go about 2 feet it dies.
    I try to start it again, but no juice. It seems like there is a short somewhere.
    I can turn the key to the on(not crank) position and the
    lights on the dash flicker, the speedometer goes up to 30mph and I hear
    a buzzing noise under the dash that sounds like when you have your door
    open(but it's not that buzz). If I try to crank, nothing. It doesn't even
    turn over.
    After playing with it for about 10 minutes it will start again. I will try
    everything. Fiddling with the connectors, shifting gears, pushing break
    pedal. I don't know what exactly I did, but eventually it works again.
    Sometimes it stalls right back out after going two feet other times it's
    fine. It happens intermittently, sometimes in the morning or after I've
    been driving for a while and stop somewhere and turn the engine off. After I get past the first two feet, it will
    not happen, this only happens in the first two feet.

    Example: one time I pushed the brake pedal a few times an shifted the
    gears then it worked.
    Last time I tried everything but it seemed like nothing worked. So I
    pushed the horn button to see if it would work and it did, then it
    started fine.

    One time after this the radio died.(turn it on, no lights, no stations, the
    casette wouldn't even go in, just hear static if i turn the volume all the way up) I thought maybe it got shorted out.
    I checked the fuses, all ok. Then recently I had the starting problem
    again. When I finally got it started, the radio works fine.

    The battery is newer, connections are good. Newer alternator(this happened
    before the alternator was replaced too). All fuses seem to be good.

    Any suggestions?
  • I have an 05 Sierra 1500 5.3 V8 with the towing package, bought used recently with 18,000 miles. I didn't get the owners manual. Does anyone know if this truck can handle towing a trailer rated at 6000 GVWR, or will it be too much of a strain on it? Thanks for any info!
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    In my opinion, 6000 lbs is the practical towing limit for a 1500 truck equipped with either 3.73 or 4.10 rear end gears. With 3.42 gears I would not exceed 5,000 lbs. With 3.23, 4000 lbs.
  • Has anybody ever had their transmission rebuilt and then have the truck keep shifting out of overdrive and act sluggish?
  • Your truck with the standard 3.42 gearing is rated for 7000lbs, with optional 3.73 gearing, 8000lbs.

    I've got the 3.73 and regularly tow 6000lbs without any problems. A little slow on the uphills, but it doesn't seem to be too much of a strain at all. The 5.3 is a great engine.

    Just be sure your trailer brakes are working. The real strain happens if you try stopping the 6000lbs without them.
  • I just bought a 2006 Crew Cab 4x4 1500 with the 4.8 motor and the manual lists my truck w/the 3.42 gears as being able to tow 6,700lbs. U-haul installed a class 3 hitch capable of 6,000lbs. Oh well, my boat only 2100 lbs so I'm not too worried.
  • If the tires have been changed or the axle ratio changed then the computer can be reprogrammed to correct for this. You need to know if the odometer is correct also when you go to get it reset.
  • Sounds like it might be antilock brakes. It is located near that area.
  • I can retune with my TunerCat programmer.
  • brp1brp1 Posts: 2
    my truck had the same problems it was the positive post had a loose inside the battery move the cable it would start. try another battery and clean the cables good at any rate i think your problem is in the battery or cables not getting good connection.
    I know you have already done this, but try it again might be suprized.

  • My 98 3500 Sierra has he same problem. Initally, it was a bad positive battery terminal, but I think after some time that also affected the positive cable.

    I replaced the battery, but the problem has persisted. I usually just have to adjust the cable a little and tighten it, then the truck starts ok for awhile. I will be replacing the cable when I have a little more time.

  • I have a 2003 GMC sierra that I love. I has 47000 miles on it and just recently started with the steering rattle. I took it in to get it aligned and that seemed to have made it worse. I had a 2000 silverado that developed the same problem and I took it to the shop many times. "It is just the way the truck drives... they all do that."

    I have read all the strings on this board about replacing the intermediate steering shaft and would like to know if this still applies to 2003's. The only TSB that I have seen posted on this site is one from 2000. If I don't get this fixed, I may go crazy. Any info would be appreciated.
  • brp1brp1 Posts: 2
    had the problem with my cable, I just cleaned it real good and put a copper between the two cables with some good lub so it would stop getting corroded no problem in two years.

    now I have a new problem with my 96 Sierra, any ideas before I have it towed.

    the starter turns over fine, no run
    the fuel pump runs. getting fuel on the rail.
    pulled #1 done comp test 150lbs. put the plug on the #1 wire
    it's firing.
    put some gas in the intake still no run
    pulled the cap and rotor button looks good

    tell me something good thanks
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    The 2003's were to get an updated shaft. This never happened and the fix is listed as grease it and good to go for another 10k or so. I guess GM has other more pressing problems as this intermediate shaft issue started in '99 and continues today in '06. How's that for product consistency?

    I have a '02 Denali which had the problem. The fix? I lowered the front end 1" and no more slack in the steering shaft.
  • Thanks for the info. I saw a link on a website, maybe this one, to GMDIESELTECH.COM. He sells a grease kit for the shaft for $15. I think that I will give that a try before I go a lower my front end. Too much snow where I am from to do that. I will let you know how it works... Thanks again
  • I just purchased a 2006 gmc sierra crew cab 2wd, and it has a terrible shake or bounce at 40mph and beyond. Smooths out slightly at higher speeds. Bought truck brand new and have already replaced tires with michelins as I always do. Has any else ran into this problem?
  • truck7truck7 Posts: 2
    I have a 2006 crew as well that has had a long history of vibration. Mine started at 70 to 75 mph. My dealer has replaced tires, rear shocks, all brake drums, rotors, pads, and shoes. Nothing worked. Finally, I discovered that if I used the parking brake periodically, the vibration went away. Mine was in the rear brakes. There is a technical bulletin dated June 06 that has a replacement for the rear brake adjusters that fixes a problem with the rear brakes over tightening themselves. This causes them to rub ever so slightly and in my case caused the vibration. By using the parking brake, I was re adjusting them to the proper clearance. :)
  • I have a 2004 GMC Sierra *2WD, 5.3Liter V8. I want to change out all interior lighting from OEM to LED Lighting.

    The Map Lights are #578 Bulbs and I am haing problems finding a cross reference for this OEM Bulb Number as well as how to remove these bulbs from their housing. I can easily remove the Light's Clear Plastic Cover and from there I am stuck physically removing the bulb?

    Can anyone help me out???
  • I have a 2003 2500hd sierra with 6.0L. Recently the battery light is dimmly lit with the key out or with the key on. Also, while driving the light will go brite and "battery not charging" will come into the display and will only last 5 to 10 seconds at the most. The battery died a few weeks ago and it was replaced. Ihave replaced the alternator (twice). Once at the advice of GMC, he said one of the diodes were bad. The alternator is charging 14 volts all the time even when problem shows up. It seems to show up during accelerations and large gas pedal travel but I am still trying to confirm that.
    Anyone have any ideas?
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Where did you get the replacement alternator from? Was it a genuine GM alternator, or one of those Auto Zone of Advance Auto parts specials? If latter, that could be your problem. The alternator needs to put out correct number of amps at the correct voltage to function properly. Proper voltage alone does not guarantee a properly functioning alternator.
This discussion has been closed.