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2013 and earlier Kia Optima Prices Paid and Buying Experience



  • chadecoenchadecoen Posts: 13
    So after doing all the freaking math and number crunching that I ever care to do again, I finally went and sat down with my local dealer Cobb County Kia in Kennesaw, GA. Nice people and all but we just couldn't do what I wanted so I walked....and they let me (which tells me they were done?)

    I want an EX base with no options for $21,500 OUT THE DOOR. They only had one with bumper and sill applique. The deal looked like this.

    $26,240.00 Selling price
    $ 3,865.00 Internet discount
    $ 1,500.00 Rebates (competitor, and auto show, $1k and $500 respectively)
    $ 798.00 Doc fee (OUCH!)
    $ 1,390.41 Tax (6%)
    $ 41.00 Tag/Title
    $23,104.91 Out The Door price

    After much haggling They finally said $22,800 and that is all they will do. I told them their "doc" fee and tag and title was twice what everyone else is getting. I finally told them I would go $22,000.00 and they let me walk. Told them I would buy a little old kia for the loyalty money also but they said it doesn't stack nor does the $500. for financing with kia and the auto show money.

    Buy it? What says you experts? Any more money to be saved here? I'm sure I could go around to every dealer in town and beat it by $50 bucks but is it worth the time? Think I can get to $22K?????? Please help, want to buy tonight!

  • thats a darn good deal.. I dont know about the numbers on the docs.. seems high but is it really worth all your time to save a few bucks.. I cant get close to that price where I live.. If you are now negotiating for sport then I think that is wrong.. Will an extra 100 bucks kill you? go for it and be over with it and enjoy.. Heck 50 bucks is one tank of gas.
  • I got mine in Milwaukee Wi for $21799 OTD including all of those xtra fees.
    Keep looking!
  • chadecoenchadecoen Posts: 13
    Hey everyone, thank you fro the support and advice and what not. We just returned home with our new 2012 Optima EX base. Has carpeted trunk mat and rubber trunk mat on top of that, cargo net, door sills and rear bumper applique, and clear door edge guards too.

    Rick Case Kia in Duluth, GA hooked us up. I shot them (well, I shot everyone an email) saying I wasn't happy with the price I had and wanted to better it. I explained in my email I had sat down for hours with a dealer and thought I could still do better. I never mentioned the price. I just hate throwing it out there for the next guy to beat it by $50 bucks or some crap. So I thought it a little more fair to say I just wanted a better price than what I got and who else wanted to compete.

    So I got various offers, most pretty close to what I had ($22,800.00) and one way high and Rick Case Kia came back at $22,167.00 OUT THE DOOR! I automatically assumed they were lying or doing some funny business but I called the sales lady last night and she said everything is for real when can I come. I showed up at 10 am this morning and the car was all clean and ready to go out front just waiting for us. I was nervous the whole time. I was just waiting for the screw up somewhere but it never happened. They proved me wrong. Way nice people and pretty much exactly what she said on the phone the night before. I think the finance guy got us for a little rate but my credit union is doing re-fi next week at 2.75%.

    I bought a 2012 Optima EX base with the above mentioned goodies for:

    $22,167.00 Out the door. No trade. $3k down, financed $19,167.00 for 72 months at 4.10%. Opted not to buy and gap or warranties at this time.

    Finance guy kept saying I could get the thousand off or the special rate (which I qualified for) but not both. I think he was making that up. He started at 6.9% and I just about got up and left but he quickly lowered it to 4.9%. I told him I could still do better and he went to 4.10%. I then told him my C.U. has 2.75% (I already checked and qualified for it) and he said great, then you lose the $1k rebate. Whatever, I was done at that point, I got really close to the numbers I wanted and the payment I wanted and all is well. I don't think I left much on the table at all. Very neat car, glad we got it. Thanks again everyone for helping out with this forum!


    PS. and they have some temp sat radio service(doesn't everyone get that?) and free nitro or whatever it is tire fill for life. And Rick Case, Inc. extends the drivetrain warranty to 20 years/200k miles. again, whatever that is worth!
  • mega13mega13 Posts: 7
    edited March 2012
    Hey guys, i just recently purchased my first and new car.

    Its an 2012 Optima LX trim, with convenience package, I paid 22k for the out the door price. Im located in Souther Orange County, CA. No finance or trade, paid cash.

    Can you guys give me a feedback if that was a good, fair or bad deal? thanks a lot.
  • ts1212tsts1212ts Posts: 1
    What is a good price to try to get on a base Optima EX? I was thinking 21k before ttl.
  • I too am looking for an EX base optima. Paper today shows the Optima LX at $19,500 - "8 at this price". no fine print - no funky rebates that I may or may not be able to jump through. Plus they offer 0% apr for 36 months on all new Kia purchases for well qualified buyers.

    End of the month, end of the quarter, just before tax time - it's a decent time to have some leverage with dealers because April is typically a dead month for dealers out there.

    with that said, I think $21,000 + tax & title is fair for the EX base - and I would want the 0% apr with that price.
  • chadecoenchadecoen Posts: 13
    New Optima EX BASE in Titanium was $22,167. out the door or final price. No trade. Not a demo or anything. Really felt like it was the best I could do. Been hacking away at a deal for months. There are a couple peeps that say they got theirs for $21,6 or so, but I could not get any dealers in the Atlanta, GA area to go that low and I love to haggle.

    Would have to ask someone else about 0%/36 mths and the discounts. Never could discern if they can be combined or not. I went with longer terms and a little higher rate cause I wanted the discount and next week my credit union is re-fi car at 2.75%

    Good luck,
  • just an fyi;
    probably best if you state the price with destination and not include tax and title - because the tax rate can vary so much from state to state.

    with that said - you sound like you've done well. why beat yourself up over another 50 bucks? I don't know about you, but I've got my breaking point as to how much I can think it over - it's stressful when you put that pressure on yourself to get the lowest cost ever.
  • chadecoenchadecoen Posts: 13
    Yep, stressful!!!!! I couldn't agree more. Many sleepless nights were had over this car. Glad it is done.

    Sorry, I do not recall what car price was exactly and don't have paperwork with me. Sales Tax here is 6% and there was some sort of dealer fee ($400. I think) and $21.00 more for tag and title.

    Whatever that math works out to be. In GA we pay tax on the price then they deduct rebates and stuff. So wrong, I know but it is what it is. So I couldn't begin to tell you what the exact number was.

    Sorry, not more help.

  • this may seem like a wierd choice, but we're are trying to decide on either the Mazda 3 i-touring hatchback or the Optima EX

    fun to drive vs. luxury
    really good mpg vs. good mpg
    can take the dog vs. not gonna happen
    zoom zoom vs. quiet gentle ride

    The Mazda sales guy was really slamming KIA for it's reputation in years past - claiming re-sale in notoriously bad for KIA. He also thinks the Optima will soften up over time and feel more like a lincon town car with a 4 cly engine after it breaks in.

    He had some valid points, but I truely believe the current edition of the Optima is a winner.
  • crfabcrfab Posts: 7
    Hi all, I am interested in purchasing a 2012 SX.

    2012 SX Optima
    Premium Touring and Tech Package

    THe MSRP is $31,600 (including the $750 destination fee).

    Has anyone purchased the 2012 SX with the Premium Touring and Tech Package and able to share what they paid so I can try and work the same deal with a dealership here in Orange County or San Diego County here in CA.

    Also, if anyone can recommend a dealership in either OC or San Diego County who can give me a good deal, that would be great.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.

  • for the Optima EX - base - no options.
    It's interesting how this game works. First guy calls and offers up $22,800 with 8.25% financing.
    I laughed at the rate offered and said "are you serious" he went on about how it includes a rebate that makes it really less - actually seemed insulted by my laugh and hurried to end the conversation. Next guy offers a decent price through the internet on some other model that I didn't request. The local dealer has a no hassel price hanging in the rearview mirror of the EX base for 22,100. They also offer 0% 36 mo. financing for up to $15k.

    I'm going to see who will go $21,000 puls tax & title with some attractive financing. Will report back - this is taking place in the San Jose/Bay Area. I don't care how they do it, but all those silly incentives like "college grad" or "owner loyalty" are a bunch of BS to me. It's completely up to the dealer to set the price -I'm pretty sure there's no one at KIA headquarters making sure you were a recent college grad or own a particular vehicle.
  • Stevens Creek Kia "8 to choose from at this Upfront Sale Price!"

    New 2012 Kia Optima LX
    Dealer Discount...-$1,999
    Sale Price............$19,491

    There's no fine print here saying you must qualify for any special rebate and they also say "All new Kia's have 0% APR available for 36 months with zero down up to $15,000 financed - with your good credit"

    Seems like a great price for a no hassle up front quote - plus the financing.
  • chadecoenchadecoen Posts: 13
    edited March 2012
    Ha ha Steve, that is too weird. We were actually looking at the same cars! We liked the Mazda3 hatch with skyactive rather than the sedan but nice cars either way.

    I am a big fan of the Japanese cars. I do think they build a better product than anyone else. They also have a better parts and dealer network in place already. I can usually work on a [non-permissible content removed] car for almost half as much as the parts cost me on the likes of a Kia.

    Mazda is hands down the more fun car to drive but it was way noisier on the inside. It also felt way more plastic and cheap or thin kinda than the kia. Odd to say, but the Kia felt more luxurious. Maybe that isn't the right word but it definitely felt more cush on the inside. The kia has a better warranty to cover what may or may not prove to be poorer build quality. The Kia, for not much more money, has more options and is larger. We just gave up on the gas mileage comparison. It is hard to beat skyactive right now.

    We also drove the focus, the forte, the soul, and the mazda 6. Other than the stuff I already stated, the kia just our personal choice. We just liked what it offered more than the others.

    That being said though, there are several Mazda dealers very close to where we live that offer discount online prices with NO dealer fees. Plus tax and that is all. That really helped us try and compare apples to apples in a world that every dealer wants to charge a different paperwork fee and some as high as $799! In the end though I like the optima and glad we chose it but we only have a thousand miles on it so far. Who knows what it will be like at 100K miles.

    Good luck,
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,907
    It's completely up to the dealer to set the price -I'm pretty sure there's no one at KIA headquarters making sure you were a recent college grad or own a particular vehicle.

    Not quite. Dealers do set the price, but it can be influenced by special offers available from the manufacturer: general rebates, college grad rebates, military rebates, competitive rebates, auto-show rebates, loyalty rebates etc. If you don't qualify for these special offers, it WILL affect your final price.

    I've benefited from these kinds of offers before, although not on a Kia. And they DO check your qualifications. For example, when I got a loyalty rebate from Hyundai, I had to bring in the title for the other Hyundai that I owned to show proof of ownership. The dealer needs to check qualifications before they send the rebate form into the manufacturer, to ensure they get the money from the rebate.
  • that is a coincedence to say the least - we were looking at the i-touing hatch with sky active - got the price to $18,900 plus tax & title.

    I agree that the Japanese build a better car - and it's all in the design to build that makes the difference. American manufacturing is catching up, but I do wonder if they have to cut corners in materials to make up for higher hourly wages. The Mazda 3 leather is like hard vynal - the Optima leather is very impressive.

    with that said the Optima being built in Georgia is a plus to me - I definitely feel better buying a car built here in the States.
  • I don't doubt they checked your degree or the current title for a loyalty rebate, but it's just smoke and mirrors. There's no one at headquarters making sure those documents are real. It just allows the dealer to advertise a very low price and decide if he's going to give you the deal.

    if I get a price that equates to the same deal as someone with the degree and or a owner loyalty or competitive product rebate - do you think the dealer is losing more money on the deal?

    he's not - I assure you.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,907
    Maybe there's no one at headquarters confirming the documents the dealer forwards to them. The dealer inspects them and determines if they are legitimate, or seem to be. I supposed someone could forge a title to a car or a college transcript in order to get a rebate, but I doubt that happens very often.

    If you get a price that's the same as someone who qualifies for one or more manufacturer rebates, yes, the dealer doesn't make as much on the car they sold to you, because the manufacturer reimburses them for the rebates.

    Have you worked in sales in a dealership so you know this is not true?
  • have I worked for a car dealership? no
    but I did sales for over 15 years including advertising for car dealers - and I can assure you they'll do anything to close a deal or take someone to cleaners if they think they can get away with it.

    I've also worked in sales for companies that offer the incentives just to make the buyer believe they are special - when they really aren't any different from someone who just knows how to drive a hard bargain.

    and yes, it would be easy to produce a fake title or college degree to get the "rebates" because no one is going to make you prove they are real. Would someone really feel bad if they hood winked a car salesman?
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,907
    Would someone really feel bad if they hood winked a car salesman?

    As in, falsifying a car title or college transcript to get hundreds of dollars in cash? Unfortunately, there's some people who would not give that a second thought. But in my eyes, it's fraud.
  • I'm not saying I'd do that - it's the dealer that would do it if he could.

    My father worked for GM for over 35 years - he was in finance with GMAC -
    I could tell you endless stories of what dealers would do.

    I can't tell you much has changed over the years - buyers are certainly better educated coming in, but dealers still play the same games they always have.
  • brandenbbrandenb Posts: 12
    Any thoughts on this deal?
    Optima SX, Prem. Touring only, no Tech
    MSRP: $30,450
    Incentives: Competitive-$1K, and Kia Finance-$500
    Financing: 1.9% for 36 months
    Location: Alexandria, VA
    Price: $26K, plus tax, tags, and processing fee
  • I spent a lot of time perusing these boards during my purchasing process these last two weeks, so I thought I'd post my final numbers for the benefit of others.

    Just completed my purchase of the Kia Optima EX Premium Package, ebony black with beige leather interior, accessorized with Cargo Mat, Cargo Tray and Door Sill Applique, MSRP $27,100 from Lev Kia in Framingham, Massachusetts.


    I was amused to discover that the Hyundai Sonata Limited is exactly the same car as the Kia. Yes, there are differences: the body styling is different, Hyundai has their OnStar-like satellite system while Kia has their Ford-Microsoft Sync-like voice control system, the dashboard layouts differ, and the suspension is tuned differently. But, essentially they are the same and I decided I could live with either car. I like the Kia styling a little more. :)

    I didn't want to pay more than $400/mo for sixty months, and here's how I got there:

    MSRP $27,100
    Competitive Discount $ 1,000
    Finance Bonus $ 500
    Trade-In allowance $ 2,300
    Final Price $23,300

    Down-payment $1,000

    Mass. sales tax (6.25%) $ 1,456.25
    Doc & Prep $ 299
    Tags $ 100

    Total Price $25,155.25, writing a check for $2855.25, financing $22,300 @2.9% for 60 months = $400/mo.

    They met my price by giving me $2,300 on a beat-up 2004 Chevy Malibu with 120k miles. They were originally offering $1500, which was more than I expected, so I was satisfied.

    I don't think the car is worth more than $1000, so I feel as if I paid $24,300 versus the Edmunds True Value list of $25,663.
  • pegasus17pegasus17 Posts: 536
    REF: 334
    if the msrp was 27100, what was the selling price before the deductions?
    How do you get a "competitive" discount?
    My Sonata lease is up soon and I am starting the looking process..
    enjoy the new ride!
  • Don't know the selling price before deductions, honestly, I'd be speculating. All that I had to go by was the Edmunds True Value list of $25,663.

    The competitive discount is available to anyone who has, or is trading, a car in the same class as the KIA Optima: mid-size sedan. I think it covers people who have, or are trading, a KIA as well. The list of cars is available on their website in a PDF file, and includes just about every non-luxury model I can imagine including some SUVs. I've seen some lists that limit the model years, but KIA does not:

    Click here for qualifying models and "View Details."
  • crfabcrfab Posts: 7
    Hi Rico, I am looking for the same ... 2012 SX with Premium Touring and Technology. Did you ever pull the trigger? If so, what did you pay?

    Any help would be appreciated.

  • akg4yakg4y Posts: 16
    Great deal! BrandenB I am also looking for that same car, possibly with tech package as well. Yours seems to be the best recent price Ive seen and Im in the Richmond, VA area. Any way I could get your sales associate's name? What color combo did you get? Did you get any accessories?
  • akg4yakg4y Posts: 16
    Wow that is a great deal on an Optima Hybrid! I cannot even figure how the sold/leased it that low. If I understand correctly:

    Negotiated price: $29647.02
    Cap reduction(Incentives): -$3400

    True negotiated price: $26247.02
    Title & Registration: $281.70
    Doc fee: $399

    Im buying in VA so car sales tax is 3% (NJ is 7.5% but you only had to pay about 1/2 since it was a lease) which would be another 800-1000 depending on if it is calculated on negotiated price before or after incentives.

    So that means out the door in VA to get a similar deal I would be looking at about $28k out the door. That is FAR beyond anything I have even considered around here... I am seeing SXs go for around 4000-4500 below MSRP before Tax/Tags etc. MSRP on the hybrid is 32,500 loaded so 28k would be before fees and OTD would be about $29500.

    Problem is if I tried to buy in NJ I would pay an extra 4% sales tax or about $1200 which would eat up the savings. I might have to wait until December and try your method in this area.
  • Price paid and experience.

    Trucar, Edmunds Market Price, KBB, NADA, invoice pricing, etc. IMO don't mean anything if the dealer doesn't match it or buy at that price. A deal in hand is better than 6 online price guides.

    My little soap box

    #1--having a 'dealer invoice' is like the furniture store that inflates the price to have a 50% off sale. I think reading forums is the best information and when they let you walk away (as I have read in here), I think that is a good idea that you have a low price. So many of these deals are 'below invoice.' How does a dealership stay in business if they are giving away cars?

    #2--most used cars are only worth auction price. Any extra I got was just the stealership working off the price of the new one.

    #3--Documentation fees are just a notice to the customer of the minimum profit they want. Imagine if you got charged by the store for them making a receipt. Crazy!

    I negotiated with many places. Most said that I needed to come by and would not give written offers. I was also trying to get estimates on the trade-in.

    $32,495 MSRP for the 2012 Kia Optima Hybrid included destination charge of $750

    Option 1: $29,195 ($1500 in rebates; $2,000 dealer discount; destination and $200 processing)

    Option 2: $28,735 ($1500 in rebates; $2638 dealer discount; destination and $379 processing)

    If you were not trading in a car, I think these are good deals off the top. Walking in off the street, this is what your could expect.

    I went with Option 1 because they offered a better trade amount (about $1500 more than anyone else or KBB fair value), they met the other dealer's price, and had lower documentation fees. They also had the best customer service. I do not mind people making money, and in this area of the US, I like to reward good customer service (hard to find).

    $27050 sales price (includes $200 documentation, $750 destination, $1500 rebates; $1500 extra trade over auction value) before taxes, title, license.

    In the finance room, I chose a bank that helped make the dealer another $200 (banks pay dealers to sell their products) and negotiated another 1% point lower on the initial interest rate.

    Patience on getting a deal.
    You can refinance a car as new with a credit union up to 7500 miles and/or 3 months and usually free.
    The dealer needs to make some money, just not all at one time.
    Everything is negotiable at all times--throw in oil changes, after market sunroofs, lower interest rates, etc...
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