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Toyota Highlander Check Engine Light



  • roddy5roddy5 Posts: 2
    As many forums that I have looked at, I am a little confused about which sensor is easy to see near the manifold. Diagnostic says bank 1 sensor 1, but some say it is right there and easy to see, and some say it is near the firewall on the other side of the engine. I went to Performance Toyota and the parts guy refused to sell me the part because he wanted to take the suv to his shop and that I am not qualified to change it. Anyone have any luck finding right part and where did you have it switched out?
  • jrfierojrfiero Posts: 123
    Its all in 4360 & 4362 in the Maintenance and Repair forum. Assuming you have a V6, the Bank 2 sensor is staring at you when you open the hood, Bank 1 is near the firewall.
    Your "parts guy" is either misinformed or lying.
  • roddy5roddy5 Posts: 2
    Thank you very much for your info. I do not have a lift nor the equipment to do the job. If the parts guy is shaky, would you trust the service guy at the same place?
  • planedoc14planedoc14 Posts: 1
    edited July 2011
    After servicing my 03 Highlander, was taking a trip and the trans o/h light came on. I pulled off the road and before I even got stopped, the light went out. Continued on the trip and after 25-30 miles
    had the same thing happen. Again, pulled off and again the light went out. Went to a local dealership to have things checked out. The tech checked things out and could find no problems. Fluid still red and no burnt smell to the fluid. Left the dealership in good shape but the cycle happened again only after 50 miles. All of these cycles have happened on the interstate doing 65-70. There is no hard shifting, slipping, or any other noticeable issues. The vehicle was not close being over-loaded. Does anyone have any ideas what could be causing this?
  • Toyota Highlander 4C, 2001, at 65K I replaced the Climate Control ($1,200), after couple of months I had to change two oxygen sensors ($450), I had to, otherwise car wouldn't pass smog test. I got I first car 15 years ago, it was a Ford Thunderbird with 73K on it and don't remember spending so much many. Maybe Toyota used to be reliable before, but NOT ANYMORE! Speaking of the Toyota dealerships... prepare to be robbed, and be thankful that they don't rape you pfysicaly as well...
  • I have a 2004 toyota highlander. ~ 6 mos ago had a check engine light come on and changed the air sensor. The check engine light has come on periodically since and goes out after an hour or so. It has not come on for ~ 2mos. Today had an inspection and although there are no error codes the emission will not pass because multiple sensors say 'not ready'. There has been no battery changes or jumps in hundreds of miles. The car has also developed some hesitation with acceleration...any thought?
  • We had a 2001 Highlander 6 cyl, 150,000 miles, owned it for 3 years, purchased used, great vehicle until it left us stranded. We had just taken it in for service at the dealership due to the check engine light coming on and we were going on a trip, so we had oil changed (always had it changed religiously), sensors changed, and some other work done to the tune of $963.00. Took off on vacation and about 1200 miles into the vacation I heard a knock in the engine, pulled into gas station and it took 4 quarts of oil !!!, limped to dealership 1.5 miles away, told engine was ruined. I called the first dealership about what was happening before I found out engine was ruined, the Service manager said they were hearing of problem when traveling at highway speeds. Never mentioned it before. Wife posted our being stranded on facebook and a close friend said they had the same thing happen to them while on a trip with their Highlander and they had to get a different vehicle also. Beware if going on trips, check oil when stopping, it may save you from getting stranded. Service manager said something failed in engine to let the oil out or burn it up as they saw no evidence of leak, crack or anything else. This was strange as we never had any problems before until we ended up stranded. Going through that much oil when it never did before leaves me with a lot of unanswered questions. Now that I think back I saw small specs of something on the back of the vehicle when filling up but thought it was from some other vehicle we passed or the road. Most likely it was oil but never did get a chance to check it out once we were stranded as we junked the vehicle. I am posting this as a warning since the service manager mentioned something to me (sorry he waited). Oil light only came on when we pulled off freeway. Only comes on when low pressure not low oil volume.
  • jrfierojrfiero Posts: 123
    If you search this and the maintenance forum for "oil consumption" and "PCV" you'll find numerous instances of high oil consumption at highway speeds, fixed by replacing the PCV valve. It's a known issue and a competent dealer should be aware of it.
    I'm suspicious of the timing of your problem just after a service. If a PCV valve was on their laundry list I'd discuss that with them.
    What did your engine do after you put four quarts in it? What do you mean by "limped?" Were you just being careful or did the car not run right? Exactly why are they saying it's "ruined?"
  • I had done the transmission oil & engine oil change at Valvoline instant oil change service station and right after 50 miles the check engine light was on. I came to this forum for some idea and there is lots of solution that other owner had shared about sensor problem, oil change, spark plug etc. But I went back to Valvoline service station and compliant about the problem and they inspected the vehicle with (U380 OBD2 LCD Car Diagnostic Scanner Fault Code Reader) and the check engine light is gone. Hope it doesn't pop up again. Saved some bucks from going to dealer and paying diagnostic charges.
  • I think there is a vacuum hose that sometimes comes off. Pennzoil usually knocks it off, but Valvoline is pretty good.
    You probably wont have a problem, if you do just take it back there and make sure they reattach it
  • I have been getting a little shimmy on my 03 Highlander 140,000 miles. At first I thought it was the transmission. I took it to Toyota and they said that its the Rear U-joint on front drive shaft binding. When I looked under the car I didnt feel any play on any of the drive shafts. Toyota wants $1800 to change it out (Tough Call). Could it just be out of balance? How do I have that checked or is there something else I should look for?.
  • phrosutphrosut Posts: 122
    edited December 2011
    There IS a hose that can be easily disconnected when checking/changing the air filter. It is a hose directly connected to the charcoal canister. It WILL set the CE/VSC light within a few days if it becomes disconnected.

    After some mice ate a few wires and those lights came on, I assumed the 'norm'. Much troubleshooting and learning later, apparently the critters must've shorted a computer circuit.

    So now... I can't pass smog with the CE light on. I worked on it for a year (before my next smog test) with no luck. Sometimes the CE light would be off for awhile and I'd think the problem was fixed. Sometimes not, and I'd begin the next step and pulling my limited hair out.

    I replaced the charcoal canister, some solanoids, other stuff... sometimes the light would stay out, but eventually it'd come back on.

    THEN I connected with a mechanic that understood the "system".

    The computer runs a test on the evap system at startup. But it doesn't run the test "IF" the fuel tank is more than 3/4 full ( and the computer has been reset by disconnecting the battery for a few minutes). It isn't supposed to run the test if the fuel is below 1/4 AND the engine is warm.

    My evap system has been mostly replaced, and the rest verified to be working correctly. But the test fails. To me, the mice must've shorted out a circuit in the computer than controls this test.

    So to pass the CA smog test, I gotta fill the tank, disconnect/reconnect the battery, then get my test before the tank goes below 3/4.

    Maybe this'll help someone with the same problem.

  • If tightening the gas cap doesn't get rid of the CEL, there's no need to disconnect the battery to reset it. Just locate the "EFI" fuse and remove it for 30 seconds.
  • Just had an O2 sensor replaced several weeks ago because of Check Engine light coming on and it just came on again. Read this post and it worked!!! Am so excited - thanks for the information.
  • In the owners manual for the 2004 Highlander, it says when the check engine light comes on, change the oil. It comes on around every 3500 miles.
  • You can go in to most auto parts stores and they will do a diagnostic check for free. My check engine light was on, so I went to O'Reilly Auto Parts and they hooked their gadget into my computer and said it was a bad thermostat - same answer I got from a state inspection. Easy and free - can't beat that!
  • hsamihsami Posts: 1
    I have a 03 HL. My CEL went on yesterday, and by reading previous posts seems like the most common problem is the O2 sensor.

    Assuming there is a problem with oxygen sensor, I wonder what would be the consequences of not replacing it for a while (~couple of weeks).
  • I couldn't find a post number in the Maintenance and Repair Forum. How do I get to Post 4360 and 4362?

  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 64,780

    When we migrated to the new platform, we lost the post numbers, I'm afraid..


    Prices Paid, Lease Questions, SUVs

  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    edited May 2014

    There's 20 posts per page (currently, at least). So divide 4360 by 20 and you wind up at "page" 218. The posts you are searching should be on that page, or within a page. Perhaps this is close to the ones you are looking for?

  • Thank you Moderators for those two responses, it was pretty close....213 had the posts I was looking for.

  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    edited May 2014

    Ok, within a page or five. ;) Glad you found it.

  • mike_jaxmike_jax Posts: 1

    Can anyone tell me how that they were able to get to page 213? I am only seeing 6 pages.

  • steverstever Posts: 52,683

    I think this is the post you're searching for, but it refers to using a borrowed scanned to clear the code. Maybe try some more auto parts stores to see if someone will clear the codes for free..

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