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VW Golf Engine Problems



  • Hey all,

    I'm wondering if it is easy to replace the crank sensor in my 2001 golf diesel? And I also don't know how long I can run without doing so?

    Thanks in advance!
  • I seem to be having a problem with my golf. Everytime I drive it, it cuts out. I mean it jurks, spits & sputters constantly. Does anyone have an idea as to what might be causing the problem and how I can fix the problem. :sick:
  • str8str8 Posts: 1
    Laaurora, did u ever get a response to your post ?
    cause i have a 95 golf, and it does the same thing, cuts out, chugs and jurks... :cry:
  • No, I never received a response to my post. I have figured out that it has something to do with the fuel supply. I started messing with ours with taking off hoses & such. After doing that I put all the hoses back on & it's not doing it anymore so I figured that was the problem. Still not sure if it might be something else also though. All I can say is it's worth a try right. Good Luck!
  • I orginally posted a problem I was having with my golf on 10/31/09. It was having problems with cutting out, spitting & sputtering. Well it turns out that it was a fuel problem. I had an old hose that was leaking & fuel filter replaced today. It seems to have fixed the problems that I was having. Although I will give it a few days to see if it really is fixed or if I need to see if the fuel pump needs to replaced also. So, all you golf owners that are having similar problems start checking your hoses, filter, etc. But don't loose hope. If there is a way for it to fixed you can fix it yourself or have it fixed. Good Luck To You All.
  • Hey everyone,
    I have a 1997 VW Golf with a 2.0L 4 cylinder. It has 133,xxx miles on it and runs pretty good. I'd like to upgrade the engine a bit but don't even know where to start looking. I was thinking of new pistons and rods, a new manifold and even a cheap turbo if I can afford it.
    My problem is that I have very little mechanical experience. I know how to do oil and my front brakes, that's about it. Although I have a few good friends who own a shop and would be more than willing to help me out.

    Basically what I'm asking is for someone to give me advice on where to get the parts, what I should get, and any tips or things like that.
  • my 2002 vw golf 2.0 is overheating. turning on the heater produces NO hot air when this happens. coolant/ water level not going down noticeably. engine fan takes a while to kick on , but even when it does, the engine doesn't cool.

    Where do we find the thermostat??
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    From your description, it sounds like the WATERPUMP is not pumping the antifreeze like is should.

    A misbehaving thermostat would NOT affect the heater because the heater-circuit plumbing does not pass thru the thermostat.

    To more specificly answer your question, the thermostat is mounted on the waterpump where the lower radiator hose connectes to the engine.

    QUESTION FOR YOU: When you had the timing-belt replaced, did you also have the waterpump and thermostat replaced? Did they use a BRASS impeller waterpump?... or the cheap plastic one?
  • it may be your coils, or at least 1. i have a 2001 golf 1.8t and it was backfiring as well as irregular idle. i replaced my coils and spark plugs and no problem anymore.
  • when idling i can smell exhaust. but when i am moving there is no irregular smell.also at times the rpms will jump randomly from about 9000 to 1500. i have a 2001 golf 1.8t. any ideas?
  • puffin1puffin1 Posts: 276
    Like to know ty
  • hi i want to know who is the best golf4 engine 1.4, 1.6, or 1.9tdi
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I am not sure that the North American MK4 Golf had 1.4 or 1.6 engine.
    (MK4 was 1999 ==> 2005)

    The only engines I am aware that were available in North American MKIV Golf are
    *)2.0 L 4cyl gasoline
    *) 2.8L VR6 gasoline
    *)1.9L TDI Diesel

    The 1.4L and 1.6L engines were in previous models (MK2 and MK3)

    Also, please define what you mean by "best".
  • zoestarzoestar Posts: 1
    Check engine light came on, car started shaking/vibrating when first started. I took it for a drive & the vibrating stopped except when sitting idle at a light or stop sign. Just rained so I don't know if it has something to do with moisture or something? Checked oil, oil was fine.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Oil -level has absolutely NOTHING to do with how an engine runs.

    Since you mention it just rained.... the "shaking" you describe (which tends to go away once the engine gets hot and dries out) is most likely due to spark-plug wires or the ignitor-coil itself.
  • I just had my 99' 2.0 golf have major maintenance on it three months ago. They replaced my max flow sensor and cleaned my ignitors. But now I have my check engine light on and a funny acrid smell from my exhaust. It is not smoky, just a high pitch smell to it. Also, I had to add a quart of oil recently. Any ideas on what the problem is?

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    You asked for ideas...

    Bad batch of gas in the tank?
    O2 sensor problem?
    MAF sensor?
  • hello my 1999 golf is spluttering when idle occasionally it cuts out when revs drop down ive had new sparke plugs injectors cleaned and a general service done not so long ago the exaust is a bit noisey when driving could anyone help me to find out what the problem could be thank you
  • jaranajarana Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 VW Golf, 5-speed manual, 44,100 miles on it.

    I've been having problems with the engine light for a few years now. I desisted from taking it to the dealership because they told me that they needed me to remove my radio and have the original VW radio reinstalled in order to run their computers... So, the light would come on and then would go away.

    The car runs fine except that in neutral or when it idles the rps drop slightly as if the car wanted to stall, even though it never does. It sort of trembles and passengers can feel that.

    I have also noticed that the light comes on when I first start the car, especially if the outside temperature has dropped. The second instance when the light comes on is when breaking or disengaging the clutch in an abrupt manner. These two things make me think that the problem must be related to the fuel pump or something like that but I can't make sense of the temperature problem, which is much more frequent...

    Thank you for your responses.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Both of my daughters had 2001 VWs with the 2.0L engine. On both of their engines, the hose that feeds vacuum signal to the fuel-pressure-regulator got old-n-crispy and broke off.

    This hose is VERY easy to replace. it is located just under the engine-cover on the passenger side.The hose is about 1 foot long. The engine-cover popps right off without tools because it is rubber-mounted. (pull the dipstick out first, then pull UP on the front of the engine-cover... then it pulls twards you to release the rear clips.)

    If your hose is broken/leaking, then the fuel-pressure at idle may be incorrect.
  • i have an 86 golf wolfsburgh edition, when i first start the car and drive it, it runs great, but when it starts to warm up it starts to cut back on me and tries to shut down, i think it might be the fuel pump but not sure, when i drive the car i can still hear the fuel pump running, it sounds like a buzzing noise is that normal? and if not could that be the prob with the car and also it losses power and cuts back when i floor it, it kinda sputters during both events if anyone has any suggestions it would be greatly appreciated thanks.

    Lil Sam
  • I had this same problem. (including the rain part.) They tried replacing the spark plugs, the mass air flow sensor, the oxygen sensor. I eventually had to replace the ignition coil pack. Take it to the dealer, nobody else will know what's going on.

    last summer my air conditioning died and since then I have spent between $5-6000 on this dagnabbit car.
  • I also have an 01 golf. The check engine light went on about a month after I bought it, and would go on again about once a week. Once I drove it for two months with the light on. If it's under warranty, make sure they replace every single thing that has ever been recalled for this car. This is an awful car, it will give you no end of headaches. There will always suddenly pop up some reason why you have to take it in to be looked at. A lot of the time the mechanics won't really know what's wrong so you will have to bring it back a day or two later when the problem returns. Sorry to be the voice of doom. Good luck.
  • i just bought a 96 golf and i am having a few problems with it. its got a tick it seems when it gets into third gear and shakes in the gas pedal and front end when it gets to certain point in 5th gear. it kind of shakes the car and is extremely loud. also the "safe" system is engaged on my stereo system, does anyone know how to fix that? let me know, love vw's just not too happy with my buy right now.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    edited February 2011
    You are describing a counple different issues here.

    The "tick tick tick" accompanied by a 'shake' sure sounds like a CV joint (Constant Velocity). Usually, a bad CV joint will sound worse when you turn one direction or another. If it is a bad CV joint, it must be replaced before your driveshaft snaps off....accompinied by severe damage and likely crashing and bodily-injury.

    To be 'fair' to your new VW purchase, a CV joint typically lasts about 90K miles on the MK3 VWs. I suspect you have more miles than that on your 1996. In other words, it has served its useful life.

    The "SAFE" on the stereo simply means that the power was lost at some point and the stereo thinks it has been stolen. Disconecting the battery is the most common way to cause "SAFE" to happen on the stereo.

    To fix "SAFE", look in the owners-manual to find out the 'secret code' you need to tap into the stereo to get it out of "SAFE" mode.

    If you dont have owners manual, unfortunately your ONLY recourse is a VW dealer who can get it out of SAFE mode. Make certain that they tell you the secret code so you have it for future use.
  • Gotcha. The radio issue is working it's self out and as for it being the cv joint that sounds very plausible cause it's at 129k miles. But it doesn't shake when I turn. It's just really loud in the car and sounds like it's got a putt or a stutter just really loud. Getting it checked out Friday hopefully but would like to know what I may be up against before I take it to the shop.
  • I have VW 2000 108,000 miles. Everything was good, the car was running great. Yesterday I have noticed that the engine got noisy, and the car struggles, it runs, but ti feels like struggles.

    I took it for an oil change and I thought that was the problem, but it was not. After I get it back this afternoon, the noise continues...Please help me with any advise.
  • Hello, have odd question. As you can this little car has many miles,still kicks 25 mpg. Just replaced power assist on brakes, now car will die when brake pedel is pressed. any ideas ?
    I am seaching for the vacum check valve, no parts house has a listing. Also, can you please tell me where the pcv filter is, checked the cam cover out is it mounted in the cover? Seems to be a filter of some kind in the top at the pcv port. Thank you in advance for all your help.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Obviously, the new brake-booster is causing the stalling. Most likely because vacuum was not plumbed-in properly. (A vacuum-leak can easily stall an idling engine)
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    edited February 2011
    You did not say which engine you have but I am not sure VW uses a "PCV Valve" design like some other vehicles. All VW engines I have seen use a 'vapor seperator'.

    Lets not forget WHY some engines use a "PVC valve" is to prevent explosion by snapping shut if the engine backfires into the intake-manifold. This prevents flame-front from passing into the engine-crankcase.
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