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2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions



  • dave150dave150 Posts: 5
    Does anyone know of solutions to a brake problem with my 2004 F-150? From the beginning, and now at 32,000 miles, I have been into the dealer 7 times because of vibrations (warped rotors mostly). This is getting ridiculous. I have been told every line, from brake shorter & harder, to the pads are now harder than the rotors, to...You name it. Well, bottom line is, they're giving up on working them. I have even had the rotors replaced 11,000 & 23,000. As a repeat F-150 owner, I have never had such problems with brake wear. Does anyone have a solution? Would be greatly appreciated!!! Obviously, I'd like to avoid going through brakes every 9-15k miles for the rest of the vehicles life!...P.S. I rarely drive in the city & very rarely tow anything. Thank you in advance for your help & suggestions.
  • hms186hms186 Posts: 1
    it reads emissions not ready [ noone can figure it out]
  • The problem started on a very rough, steep, dirt road. I got to the bottom of the hill, all of the gauges were at "zero" and I couldn't switch out of 4wd, low range.
    I finally found a blown fuse #45, a 10amp mini and replaced it.
    All fine until another rough road trip the next morning. Same routine.
    Worked fine for a few days then blew twice in one morning on a smooth city street.
    I checked under the vehicle to see if a loom was pinched anywhere, especially near the suspension.
    I also checked the cab ceiling circuits and brake lights as I had just added a Confer rack to the top. All of those circuits seemed okay.
    Any ideas on where to start a more detailed search or where to get a detailed electrical manual for this truck?
    Thanks in advance,
  • omitchosomitchos Posts: 1
    I have a vibration i my truck at about 1500-2500 rpm from a dead stop. Is this the same thing as you?
  • i am new to this site so i hope that someone can help me. i need to remove the rear seat of my 2004 f-150 supercab and am not quite sure how to do it. i know the little older models was just a quick lift up of the seat and she would pop out. these seem to be a little more difficult. i know some of you's are very knowledgeable in these vehicles, so any help would be appreciated.
    also there have been some discussion on vibration and such. i do know that the rear differential was causing some probs. i think that it has been such a prob that there is talk of a possible recall on them. i know that they are fixing them in my area free of charge. my bro has a 04 as well and he had his done. also he has had probs with his 4wheel drive system. i hope this helps a bit. any help would be appreciated. thanks.
  • cornellpinoycornellpinoy Posts: 196
    What year is your truck? DId you recently change or reconnect the battery?

    Usually if the battery has been disconnected, it will take a few drive cycles for the OBD system to "re-learn" and once that happens, the emissions codes will be "ready".
  • jdfrmkyjdfrmky Posts: 15
    I have a 2004 F150.Driver window and passenger window rubs something marking the window sort of a very shallow scratch you can feel with a fingernail but cleans up.out of the 4 times to the dealer they replaced window seals on third visit.That was ok for awhile.Last visit they just cleaned the window tracks.It seems this scratching would tear window tinting film.I would really like to get the windows tinted because my A/C blows weak,which seems to be a Ford thing at least it was on my wife's Escape.
  • judistjudist Posts: 1
    Had the oil changed (by Ford) about a month ago (for the second time) and noticed a pool of oil in my driveway the day after. I think this may be an unrelated leak, but who knows.

    The oil is visibly dripping from the plug with the allen wrench mating hole in it, located right behind the crankshaft pulley/vibration damper on the underside of the engine (near the front) and has coated the steer axle frame.

    Ford ran a diesel leak diagnostic and replaced the CAM position sensor, and I was informed the ICP was not leaking after this repair. Well, the leak in the plug is still there.

    Has anybody else had this problem? I'm pulling my hair out trying to get a resolution from the dealer and have fallen into the cycle, take it to Ford, Ford keeps it for 2-3 days and says the problem is fixed, and returns it still leaking. Going on 1 month and 3 visits to the shop.

    Any ideas?
  • xabntroopxabntroop Posts: 7
    I just bought a 05 F-250 and have 2k miles on it. On Friday I was driving about 55 or 60 and went to pass a big my rpms increased to pass I heard a loud noise....thought I had a blowout at first but noticed a noise from the engine and an immediate loss of power. I pulled over, popped open the hood and the hose right behind the shroud had blown off and and hit the hood so hard I got a small dent. I suppose this has happened to someone else out there because my brother in law had the same thing happen to his 04 excursion (minus the dent). The clamp on the hose is a metric 11 and if anyone has any idea why it happened (other than the clamp being loose) please let me know.
  • jct1jct1 Posts: 2
    I have been having similar issues. My 2005 F150 stalls and dies out during slow speeds and also having starting problems. After four attemts the dealer finally determined that the PCM(Power control Module) was bad. It has been in the shop for three weeks now. Let you know what happens. Oh, and nothing ever registered on the on board computer so it made it even harder to pinpoint.
  • kinzu2kinzu2 Posts: 1
    Have a 2002 ford f250..bought used had 14,000 at 22,000 ...truck had vibration when garage fixed before i purchased. Now at 22,000 miles vibration was back,Took truck back in to dealer, pulled wheels ,found all rotors were burned black,,said a slide in calipers were froze..$900 repair replace all rotors an pads...Has anyone else had this problem that u know?..or have u received any help on your problem...Kinzu
  • atlfannmatlfannm Posts: 3
    I have a 1997 F250 4wd< re balanced drive shafts, three sets of tires my tire man banned me from his store. re packed wheel bearings, indexed tired to rims, I just do not have a clue, the vibration started at 65000 and now at 90000 it is just not drivable over 50 miles per hour, what do I do now.
  • hokahey4uhokahey4u Posts: 1
    I think what your saying is that you blew one of the lines that go into the turbo. If this is the case the best way to fix it is to get a synthetic chamois and cut about a one inch wide strip long enough to go around the turbo pipe. Clean the area of all oil and then wrap the pipe with the synthetic strip and than place the hose over it. The strip works like a gasket between your turbo hose and your turbo pipe. Once tightened the strip will soak up any oil and it will actually prevent the hose from blowing off anymore. I have three F-350s and they were having that same problem and until I did this the hoses kept slipping or blowing off. I have found that this is the best fix.
  • dave150dave150 Posts: 5
    Being that it is the new design, on another board it was suggested to me that if I had 18" wheels, and I do, to notice that those same design were not offered in 2005 models...Not enough air-flow???? Hmmmmm... Sneaky.
  • oaaieoaaie Posts: 1
    How do you adjust the clutch on an F-250? Is it like bleeding the brakes, or is there something else I'm supposed to know? I had to replace the hydralic line, and now I can't get the adjustment right.
  • powell4x4powell4x4 Posts: 2
    Need some help in locating the grounding post of my 1998 model F-150 4X4 for the Wipers, Interior cab lighting, Power windows. I suspect that the ground is not secure, due to when I reset the 50 amp fuse in the power distribution under the hood they come on without spikes in the circuits but shut down shortly after reset of all relays/breakers. Can someone help with experience in this problem? Thank You!

  • gator440gator440 Posts: 4
    I've got a '94 F-150 4x2 with a 4.9 6 cyl., E4OD trans and a 3.55 rear end with 84K miles which gets around 13 mpg around town and 15 on the highway. I feel it should be getting around 20 on the highway as I know of simular trucks with 302's in them that will do this. I've replaced the oxygen sensor and the motor is in excellent shape. It's also got 31X10.50R15 tires on it which I figured I could deduct one or two mpg at the max. Any suggestions or am I expecting too much?

  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Just like the brakes, air will have to be bled out if you changed a line.
  • I wouldn't expect to get much higher than that. I have a '91 with the 4.9l and it gets 14 city and on good days 16 hwy.
  • jimmer1jimmer1 Posts: 1
    I just purchased a 2005 Lariat Supercrew w/moonroof and have the same problem. It appears that the dome light is rattling against the roof when hitting a bump and the headliner flexes. It should be a simple fix for the dealer. Either attach the light assembly to the roof? Or, install an adhesive backed pad to the back of the light assembly to eliminate the "knocking" noise. These type of problems should never make it to the customer and should be caught at the plant. In my case Dearborn Assembly should have identified this problem on their "squeak and rattle" track that every vehicle travels on.
  • tlintontlinton Posts: 1
    I just took my new F150 supercab back to the service department for this very same issue. I have the 20in performance wheels and tires on mine and at about 65 mph I get a vibration in the steering wheel. I will email if it's gets resolved in a few days
  • nokey, I have a 99 f150 supercab and I am in the same situation. Did you find a key, and is yours six pedaled flower shape/design?
  • There is no point blaming someone how it happened. My truck is now park at my house after driving approx. 25 miles. The truck was nearly empty when filled with gas. Apparently in the way home the vehicle struggle a bit making it uphill. I just turned the engine, you can hear the engine running rough but not so bad yet. What should I do, drain it? call a local mechanic? I don't want to call the dealer in case other future problems occur, my warranty might be in jeoperdy. Thanks in advance for your help.
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Posts: 493
    Ouch! Don't run the truck any more. Diesel engines use the fuel to lubricate various parts, Gasoline doesn't have this "lubricity" and if you run it long enough it'll ruin your fuel injectors. $$ :cry:

    Dealers aren't cheap when this happens, I've heard them charging as much as $600-$700 to fix this and then to add insult to injury they charge you an "Environmental fee" to dispose of the gasoline. You can fix this yourself, but it's still gonna cost you
    a bit of money, and fair amount of time.

    You've obviously got to get the gas out of the tank. You're gonna have to get a bunch of 5 gallon gas containers to hold the fuel. Don't drain it onto the ground, you can blow yourself and the truck up. Don't dump it either. You can save the gas and run it in another vehicle or save it for your lawn mower.

    You won't be able to siphon the tank out because our rigs have a "Rollover Valve" that prevents fuel from pouring out after an accident. It blocks a siphon hose. One way to drain the tank without dropping the heavy fuel tank: you can disconnect the outlet hose from the fuel pump, attach a piece of hose to the pump and run it into your gas cans. Turn on the key, the pump will run for about 20 seconds then you'll have to turn key off, then on again. Repeat as needed till empty. It's TEDIOUS, but will eventually empty the tank.

    Put the fuel line back on. Now drain the fuel filter via the water separator valve. Add a few gallons of diesel to the tank. Pressurize the system, drain and cycle the key until only diesel is coming out. Now put a new fuel filter on it. Refill it with fresh DIESEL. Add a healthy dose of Diesel Fuel Lubricant to the tank. Run the truck and cross your fingers. After a few hundred miles I would change the fuel filter again.

    My buddy did this a couple years ago and has had no problems down the road with injectors failing, but every truck and circumstance is different. Good luck and hope it works out in the cheapest way for you.
  • You may need to change out your EGR Valve and clean the tubes to increase your mileage.
  • I too suffer from noisy, irritating ticks and rattles that come from the new F150. The steering wheel tick that you are experiencing, I had also. What I found that worked was to lay upside down in the driver s seat and look up in to the steering column. About half way up the column is a collar . If I can remember correctly it is metal or plastic and needs to be repositioned. Twist it a little and it should fix it.
  • vader77vader77 Posts: 2
    At highway speeds, my 99 F150 4X4, when in overdrive (obviously at low RPM's) seems like it's misfiring (almost like it's running out of gas). When I turn the overdrive off, the problem goes away. I've tried spark plugs, cleaned out the K&N filter, and tried fuel injector cleaner. Any ideas before i bend over at the dealer?
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516

    Have the truck towed to the dealer and explain what has happened. They will have to drop the tank as well as flush the fuel lines... you also need to have the injectors and pump checked.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • oldrayoldray Posts: 1
    My check engine light comes on and with a reader I get "bad heater on Bank 1 Sensor 2". Does anyone know which sensor of the 4 on the exhaust system is this specific sensor.
  • i have a 01 cc w/7.3 a/t 4x4, the interior lights,4x4,cruise,pwr/windows,pwr/mirrors quit working, i had the gem replaced at the dealer, but still not working, any ideas?
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