Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions



  • I have purchased a 1984 F-350 with an unknown motor ( ran good and was cheap) It has a factory Holly/ motorcraft 4 bbl. How can I tell what motor I have ? There are no ID. tags, plates, or numbers anywhere Some one said they heard of a 351 modified coming with a 4 bbl.">
  • Thanks anyway I guess everyone is watching the disaster on T.V. It's a 460
  • I have a 1996 F350 LOVE it bought it new in 96. The problem is every since I changed the original long tie rod the new ones don't last. I have put 4 tie rods on my truck in 2 and Half years. I do NOT off road. I have also replaced every part on my front end and still have the same problem.Can someone help me figure out what the problem is? Thanks
  • I'm towing a uhaul trailer with a 99 f-150 4.6 (4x4) from CT to Ohio. Do I need to have a tranny cooler installed? I don't think it came with the towing package (I do have the electric harness for the trailer, but no hitch.) I don't know squat about towing, so any help would be appreciated!
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Lots of unknowns here, including the condition and mileage of the transmission, weight of the trailer and its load, traffic conditions, highway elevation, to mention a few.

    However, as the answer to a lot of those questions can't be known until after the fact, and assuming I wanted the transmission to have a reasonable life expectancy after the trip, the answer would be an unequivocal "yes"!

    You're more foresighted than most in considering this question, and fitting the largest cooler possible will be a minimal expense compared to cost of a transmission replacement. While you're at it, consider fitting a transmission temperature gauge to the flow line coming from the transmission, to allow you to keep an eye on how it's behaving.
  • I have same problem with '05 King Ranch. Shocked when I noticed it because I didn't test drive with moonroof open prior to buying. Asked dealership about fix. They suggested an after market wind deflector and possibly a velcro fastening system between the headliner (which is pretty much free-floating) and the cab roof as a fix. They priced out the deflector at about $67 and an hour or so of shop time. About that time I thought bull****! Why on earth would Ford sell me a vehicle with an MSRP of about 44K and tell me if I wanted to have my moonroof open I would have to spend an additonal $150 for some Mickey Mouse setup to prevent the buffetting, ear-pounding, and headached inducing noise. Now that I have had time to think about it I will be calling them tomorrow and demanding that they fix it period! When I pulled up the forum on Edmunds it was no surprise that someone was discussing this issue. Don't tell me that they didn't know this existed before they marketed the truck.
  • Thank you for the info. I have just purchased a '05 King Ranch. If I start to experience these types of problems I will be distressed enough to join you in your legal solutions. Obviously they know there is an issue but, unless enough folks take them to task we will all be living with the problem. Please keep my contact information around in case you file and need support. Thanks.
  • I had the same thing happen today on my 2004 F550 with the same 6.0 liter engine. I was pulling a landscape trailer with some mowers. I heard a loud bang and thought I hit a branch hanging from a tree or a tire blow out. I lost all power and had a tough time climbing up hills. I found a hose off on my truck turbo charger area also but I am getting heavy black smoke from my exhaust with any kind of exertion. I bringing it in tomorrow so will see. My 2003 F350 has gone through new injectors, new transmission, and a new turbo charger. And if your thinking I am rough with the trucks you got it wrong I baby these Fords. These new Fords suck!
  • I recently purchased an F350 with a 5.8 gas engine, and I'm being told by friends that if I want to replace the old rusted oil pan I have to remove the entire engine.

    Any help would be appreciated.

  • You don't have to pull the engine, but you definitely have to jack it and the transmission up in order to pull the oil pan out. It's a real pain in the butt. The pan sits over a part of the frame with two deeper oil wells front and back of the frame bar. You absolutely cannot get it out without raising the engine. All the 8 cylinder F-series trucks from that time period are designed that way, and evidently Ford spec'd cheap metal in their oil pans. :mad:

    I have a '95 F-150 w/ a 5.0L, the pan started to leak. The paint blistered on the pan and it was all rusty underneath. The rusty metal was actually porous and the oil was started to leak pretty bad. I found it would be around $500-$600 to replace a $45 oil pan. :cry: I drained the oil, degreased the pan, and the scoured it with a wire wheel mounted on a drill to take off the rust. I put a liberal coating of JB-Weld on the pan the pan, let it set up, then primed and painted it too. I let it sit for a day to fully cure, before I put oil back in. It's been two years, and my patch is still holding. Still find an occaisional drop of oil on the driveway, but at the time I did the patch it was losing about a pint a day just sitting parked.

    If you do go for the pan replacement, you may as well change out the oil pump and the screen while they're doing it. The extra labor and parts are cheap compared to jacking the engine.
  • I just traded a perfect 97 f-150 lariat 4x4 extended cab for an 04 same configuration with 11k miles and have had it back to the dealer for severe vibration in the front end 4 times. The dealer has replaced the front brake calipers, rack and pinion assembly, brake rotors, and was investigating the vacuum system for possible problems with the 4x4 system when they found the parking brake system in the rear wheels had been partially engaging by itself, sometimes enough to cause the violent shaking, and other times just enough to make the truck feel sluggish and cause gas mileage to plummet to about 12 mpg. I feel this has been the problem all along, but I won't know until I've put some miles on it to see if it really is fixed. I've got my fingers crossed, otherwise this is a great truck, and I look forward to getting just as many satisfactory miles out of it as I got from my 97. Anyone out there who has a violent intermittent shaking, and thinks their truck doesn't have the power it should, coupled with reduced gas mileage, should have their dealer check the emergency/parking brake system. I think this may have fixed my problem. I will report back after a few hundred more miles.
  • at 39000 miles lost high pressure oil pump causing loss of fuel flow-no parts immediately available-stuck on road-costs $1000 or more due to loss of vehicle

    second problem with the f350, first problem was loss of alternator without any manufacturer parts or after market parts available-without vehicle for 4 days.
  • Got the VIBES? Seventeen miles and 1 day old, my 2004 F150 was being taken back to the dealer. First day vibrations, "its from being tied down on the transport truck, it's work out". Wheels rotated and Balanced, truck the three days. Week two, second trip to dealer 45 miles away, with stalling and vibration is still there: the tires needed rotating and balancing a second tine, and they can't fix the stalling because Ford has no fix at this time, truck there 3 days. Trip three: to a different dealer, 54 miles away one week later, they never put the truck in the shop, because of bulletins form Ford, there is no fix at this time for stalling, and vibration is a charteristic of the vehicle. Trip four, same dealer 54 miles away, one week later, never put in the shop, same reasons, bulletins state no fix at this time and the truck is left on the lot for another 8 hour day, with no repair orders written. Trip 5 to a local dealer, dealer re-progarms the ecu as told not to by Ford, the stalling quits, but a miss at idle now, no fix available still, and the wheels rotated and balanced 4th time, no fix on vibration, 3 days at dealer. Calls to Ford assistance, Truck back to local dealer, for vibration and brake vibration, Balance and rotate the wheels, no repair to Brakes, no repairs to miss at idle, truck in shop for 2 days. Call to ford assistance center, Tires replaced and wheels rotated and balance, 8 hours at dealer, no fix, Call to Ford Assistance, Truck back at dealer, wheels rotated and balanced, no fix, 8 hours at shop. Call to Ford Assistance, Truck taken in for engineer to fix, tires rotated and balanced, dampeners installed on bed and chassis, no repair for idle problem, no repair on brakes, and its all charateristics of the vehicle. Truck to Arbitration on Friday Sept 9, 2005, almost one Year from purchase and 20,000 miles, Ford refused to fix, repurchase, or replace truck so for, let the Arbitrators decide. I'll update you when we know.....
  • I've heard guys on these sites talk about using programmers (chips) to improve performance and gas mileage. Some say they're getting 5 more mpg. I'm skeptical. The best I could muster is 15.1 on the highway (70 mph), with the old exhaust. With the new Gibson, I'm up about a mile per gallon. It's gonna take a long time to recover the 400+ I've put out. My dad bought an 05 F-150 Crew just like mine and he's getting 19.8, at 70, with the air on. (stock exhaust and 3.73, while I have the 3.55) I don't get it and am PO'ed with the gallon of gas sitting at 3.19/gal. Haven't presented this to the dealership, yet, but am considering that move. Anybody out there with programmer experience or having the same demoralizing highway problems as I? What did you do?
  • i was wondering if y'all could help me. i have a 2004 regular cab FX4. thats right a 04 regular cab FX4. i have a vibration when i first take off no mater how hard the accelorater is pushed and when traveling 25-30 mph no matter if accelerating, braking, or just idiling along at that speed. hell, you could probably roll the truck down a hill in nuetral and it would probaby vibrate at 25 mph. i have had it back at the dealer total of 4 times now, in-fact i just got back from geting it tonight. they have replaced the driveshaft, u-joint at rear end, adjusted the pinion angle, and they also told me they can't fix it. the truck has 10,500 miles. it is regular cab fx4 with i have found it is very rare at least in southeastern virginia. i have a feeling the problem is mostly because the back end is so much higher than the front. i live on a farm, so as you can guess the truck has seen its share of off road. i am not talking about rock climbing or mud bogging, i am just talking about average off roading to get through fields. i have not pulled anything with it or have i loaded the truck down. the most i have put on it is about 800 pounds. this is the only problem i have had with it. every other aspect of this truck works perfectly, i wouldn't trade it for anything. i just need to get this vibration fixed. so if any of yall have had the same problems please let me know.
  • my 86 ford f 250 7.3 has a tight radiator hose after driving for a few miles,and i noticed a small amount of tiny bubbles in the radiator along with a oily residue..any thoughts on where it may be comming from?
  • mghmgh Posts: 43
    I have the same problem but I have realized that when I fill my tank is never the same; I can always squeeze an extra 3 to 5 gallons of fuel. It looks like the gas tank has a big neck and it can hold more fuel than the 27 gallons that is on my window sticker specs, so I can't really tell what is the fuel consumption.

    I have the XLT extended cab with the 5.4 engine and to be honest it is a piece of crap. We have 300 HP but it feels like 200 HP

    Pls send me info on the Gibson system. Is it a double exhaust?Where can I buy it? I don't know anything about the chip but the only thing I know is that you may void your warranty.


  • I had that problemin my last truck 2003 lariet 4x4 and it was tires .
  • geo9geo9 Posts: 739
    Cracked head/bad head gasket and or intake manifold gasket...................

    White smoke out of tailpipe????????

    Not good......................
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    have a tech sniff the radiator neck with an exhaust gas analyzer. if it lights up, you are off the road until the head gasket or whatever is fixed. at least you have caught this early enough so the engine probably hasn't been wrecked.
  • I am new to this and to diesels.I tried to let the water out of my 93 7.3 turbo F350 and when I turned the valve on the bottom of the filter I got nothing. No fuel and no water. Is this normel or do I have a problem? Thank you for any help you can give. Dan
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    don't know, but think compression checks of the cylinders would show which bank most likely has the leak. problem with that thinking is, you have two identical gaskets with the same installation techniques installed... and you only want to replace the one that failed right now? do 'em both and don't have the other one fail is the way I'd think.

    of course, I grew up a broadcast brat, and if a module in a quad videotape failed, they shotgunned out all the similar parts... ie, if a bypass capacitor opened up, and you lost $8000 in revenue in this newscast from not getting the commercials on, how ya gonna explain the next capacitor going out next month when you had the chance to replace all of those parts at once. you lose the spots, you have to make them up, and that costs you the time spots for a second bunch. way far cheaper in your time and pain to do both head gaskets, check both heads out... you will save some labor from tearing it all down to get there, retiming the engine, and putting all the bolt-ons back on after doing the job.
  • MG,
    Thanks for the info on the gas tank neck. Never thought about that. Though the gas gauge always seems to read full when I fill it. It's pretty consistent at the mileage that I've described. With the Gibson, I've improved about a mile per gallon. But, like I said, it's going to take some time to recover the cost of the exhaust. I'd only get it if you plan on keeping the truck for a lot of years. I'm sorry to hear that you're not happy with it. I try to keep in mind that my trucks 300 hp is not geared to take off like my mustang GT was. But, I've never had any problems hauling around the 5-6 thousand lb. trailer that I often used.
    The Gibson exhaust, I got on-line from an outfit in Conneticut. Wish I could remember the name. i got the single pipe ($400). I like it, but it's not going to produce a big crack when you hit the accelerator. If you want more of that then go to the daul exhaust. Took four days to receive in NW Pennsylvania. Much nicer thant the original system. I would recommend the stainless. Again, if you're keeping the truck for a few years.
  • MG
    Only paid $300 for the exhaust. I added some other things that put my bill up to around $400. Sorry.
  • Thanks for taking to time to write back.
    As I recently realized the oil pan is only the beginning of my problems. I purchased the truck from the village DPW and though it was a 92 it only has 47K miles on it.

    When I went to pick it up, the truck wouldn't start, and determined it was the started. What a chore, the bolts were rustier and we had to cut the bolts.

    Of course after we solved that problem we drove it around the block only to realize the transmission cooler line is leaking.

    The oil pan seems like a big job, but my real concern is that I or someone else will have a real hard time taking the old bolts off, and lord only know what that will lead to.

    Thanks again.

  • I just bought a 94 f150 :lemon: and have had nothing but problems. Now i'm having what seems to be a fuel pump problem. It runs great in town, but when I get it about 35-40 miles out on the highway, the check engine light comes on for a few seconds, then goes off. That's when the problems start. It starts stuttering and dying like its not getting any, or enough, gas. I slam on the gas, and everything works again for about 30-45 seconds then the cycle starts over again, almost like clock work. Normally I would say it was the fuel pump getting hot and not wanting to work. But the thing is I have two tanks and two fuel pumps (one in each of course). It doesn't matter what tank is selected, the exact same problem occurs. I have changed the fuel filter and the fuel pressure regulator, but no better. Does anyone have any ideas? I would greatly appreciate any help I could get. Thanks.
  • mghmgh Posts: 43
    This is a typical symptom of the Oxygen sensor failure. Buy the original equipment from Motorcraft and reset the engine codes in the truck. You may want to check the codes first just to make sure this is the problem.

    Good luck!
  • I am new to this message board and appologize if this is not the correct forum but I need help please.

    I just started experiencing acceleration problems with my 2003 F250 SD 6.0 Diesel. I am not sure if it is a TURBO problem, Transmission problem or some type of electrical module etc. It does not happen all the time though. The symptom is that when I for example go to pass someone the RPM's increase but there is NO power. The speed of the vehicle SLOWLY increases. Does not seem like it is down shifting or that the TURBO is not engaging. Anyone hear of or experience similar problems? Vehicle has 39,000 miles. I am also NEW to Diesels.

    Note: Really noticed it yesterday morning. However Yesterday afternoon when leaving work it operated just fine. Plenty of power. Again this morning, NO power and same problem experienced.
This discussion has been closed.