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2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions



  • jdnhjdnh Posts: 1
    I have a experienced the exact same scenario with my hubs.
    In addition they are poorly marked and the locked/auto position indicators
    are not visible.

    Hub is now making clicking noise while in auto position.

    I have a 2001 F350 SD crew.

    have you had any progress with FORD?

    Are there after market hubs available an if so where and how much?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    If engine rpm increases but there is no matching increase in forward speed it would seem to indicate a transmission problem, possibly a slipping clutch or torque converter.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Going to manual, rather than auto, hubs keeps things simple and reliable.

    Warn F350 SD Hubs

  • I have a 2003 6litre and I have noticed the same power problem since about 65K and dealer is of no help to me. What I have found out is that I'll warm the thing up and it will be up to temparature and it will still have no power-the trick is to turn off ignition and restart vehicle and you have all your power back. It doesn't fix the issue but it helps. I think it is a faulty sensor with the turbo pressure or something-sticking at cold startup and doesn't follow temparature unless it's reset. I haven't had time to take it to the dealer and show them this since I found a temp fix and it doesn't show up a fault with the computer. Some expert out there on turbos? Mapping sensor or something?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I have a 2003 6litre and I have noticed the same power problem...........

    If there's a lack of power and the engine bogs down it could well be related to your turbo's blow-off valve, among other things of course.

    However, in threefoot's case, engine speed increases but there's no corresponding increase in speed or power, indicating that the transmission isn't translating that speed increase into anything useful.

    Sounds like yours is a different problem, though no less annoying! ;)
  • I have recently aquired a 2002 F-350 superduty CC LB 5.4L. 165,000km 4x4
    I have an exhaust leak at the rear of both manifolds- bad studs or whatever- needs to be remedied.
    Now yes this is under powered unit as it is but for what I need for it is fine (besides my '03 f250 work diesel is problematic enough with warranty) but I still could use a power boost. What is the ideal exhaust setup for this thing now that I need to work it anyway? I do not know if my manifolds are cracked and junk but for possible alternatives I've been looking at aftermarket headers and I see they have them for 5.4L all over the place for excursions f-150,250 etc but having difficulties sourcing them for 2002 f-350s.

    My question is-what is the ideal setup for this or at least adequate?
    - Will the F250 header setup fit a 350 with no serious mods? -(remember 4x4)
    If so, do I do headers with the Y pipe or pitch it and run dual to the back- with just the catalytic converter-no muffler. What could I expect with fuel economy? Will the hp increase by 10-15% as headers normally go? -does it affect sensors/ screw up computer etc?
    -Should I just keep the stock setup and as I know I could spend 500$ and reprogram the computer altogether but I ain't loaded.

    Do they make aftermarket K&N air intake filters for these as well- trouble finding those too (small town syndrome) any problems with computer/sensors also?
  • annoying is right however my symptoms seem similar in the sense that the engine does rev up not necessarily bogs down (if you mean like flooding or something)--Its like it almost has not enough air or something. It is slow shifting in reference to the tranny but I figure it's because it take so long to hit the shift limit or whatever. Then it all goes normal with a reset. Could this still be the the blow off valve as a possibility? Is there any other sensors that I could as the dealer to look into as a possibilty along with the blowoff valve?

  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    The good thing about your problem is that it's repeatable, and that restarting clears it, which should make it easy to analyse what's happening while it happens. At this stage I'd be inclined to let a reputable dealer with a good diesel specialist check it out first before making suggestions.
  • I agree, it sounds like your symptoms are very similar. I took the truck out this afternoon at lunch time ... ran great. No problems. Seems to coorespond somehow with either cooler engine/air temps or perhaps more moisture in air in the morning or something. I'm no mechanic but seems electronic.
  • Good call mgh. It was the O2 sensor. Unfortunately I did replace the fuel pump before I read your reply to my post. So I guess I won't have to replace that for a while. Funny how a $40 problem turned into over $300 to fix. But at least I know my fuel system in and out. Thanks a lot for the help.
  • Does anyone have any information on a possible TSB for a failure of the o-rings on the high pressure side of the external oil pump on the 7.3L powerstrokes? The company I work for has two 2003 f-350's. One is a super cab and the other is a crew cab, both purchased the same time. The crew cab started leaking quite a bit of oil this last weekend, went into the shop on Tuesday and we were told that the o-ring had failed. After a $ 100.00 deductible on the engine warranty, it is back on the road. A friend of mine told me he thought that there was a TSB out on this as it is a common problem. The supercab has had a small leak in about the same area, and we don't want to waste another $ 100.00 plus be without a truck for a day. Any information would be appreciated
  • had similar problem with 2004 f150. dealership replaced spline shaft coupling which was not sliding smoothly which resolved the problem.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I'm glad for you. I've got a '93 F150 that runs perfectly and has never had anything other than regular maintenance items. However, there's NO WAY I'll purchase a current F150 until Ford turns things around.
  • I too am having the same exact problem. I just changed my fuel filter and this hasn't helped, I also have changed the 2 oxogen sensors, and this didn't help. The EEC code
    reads out and refers to a fuel pump. But there are 2 tanks and 2 fuel pumps and the problem happens wether I use either tank. I would like to get this fixed as well. Any help would be appreciated. THANKS! :confuse:
  • I had replaced both tanks with new fuel pumps. But the fuel runs from the side tank right into the back. It seem to me that the engine dose not get enough gas. Now Ihave a full tank in the back and none in the side tank. I need help baddly. The truck is 1994 with only 85730 actaule miles. this should not be happening to this truck this soon.
  • mghmgh Posts: 43
    If you have done all of the above check your catalytic converter but in my professional opinion your mass air flow sensor is going bad. Have you cleaned your fuel injectors and replaced your fuel filter?

    Stop throwing your good money down the drain replacing parts, take the truck to the dealer and have them read the codes with a reliable computer they will even flash your computer with the latest upgrades at your request for free. Don't forget to ask to check all recalls on your truck while is there.

    Good luck,
  • One of your fuel pumps has a bad check valve, (or somebody sold you the wrong pumps). When gas is pumped to the engine, what isn't used is pumped back to the gas tanks. If your check valve has failed, the gas doesn't go back to the proper tank, or the front tank just pumps into the rear or vice versa, and could starve the engine too. The Hazard the tank could overflow and cause a fire. Ford had a recall for this problem, but I don't think '94 models were included.

    The check valve system is built into the fuel pump. it's called a "shuttle valve," When the shuttle valve fails on one pump, it lets the other tank fill it up, when it's supposed to be checked. The shuttle valve is in the in tank fuel pump (FDM - fuel delivery module) for 90 to 96, according to my Haynes manual. Haynes says the damaged valve can't be repaired. You need to replace the whole fdm drop in unit it comes as one piece with everything.

    When the fuel is cross flowing to the other fuel tank in your case to the front tank then the FDM shuttle valve is stuck open. Get a Haynes manual, it has step by step instructions. I did a search and found: "If you have a pump in each tank the problem is with the tank that is being filled while switched to the other one. If you are running on the rear tank and the front tank is being filled the problem is with the check valve in the front tank (stuck open). Replace the front pump unit. If the rear tank is being filled while running on the front tank, replace the rear pump unit." So it sounds like your rear check valve is the problem.
  • I have the vibes as well on my 2004 XLT F150. I now have about 23,000 miles on it and several trips to the dealer. Each time the shop foreman thinks it is tires until I remind him that it doesn't vibrate when you let off the gas and coast. It only does it around 48-58 under load. Let me know how you come out on yours. I think Ford engineers know what is wrong but aren't saying so they don't have to spend a lot of money on repairs. Maybe we should get an attorney involved and do a class action lawsuit!

    Please keep me posted on your outcome. Thanks! Jack
  • At this point, the jury is still out on this one, as usual. A third party was called in to inspect the vehicle, they were not informed of the vehiles repair attempts, and their findings where that it's most likely tires...LOL.... This is after the orginal tires were rotated and balanced 5 times by an authorized Ford Dealership, a complete set of tires and wheels from a 2005 f150 were put on my vehicle for 2 days testing, and a complete set of new tires was installed by Ford at no cost. The third party has no clue as to the body damper attemps, or the cab dampener attemps either. So, now we wait for Ford to give their opion to the third party inspection, before the ruling is made. Meanwhile, we're checking into what the attorney general's office will need in case Ford viggles out of this one also..... Keep in touch.... by the way, see message # 1461, this guy has pretty much hit the nail on the head.... Vibes of Ford
  • I have a real lack of power and accerleration with my truck. I previously owned a 2001 F-150 which was considerably faster and general overall performance was better. I had it in at the ford dealership several times they can't find anything wrong with it other than cleaning the carbon out of the fuel system, they also reprogramed the computer to the current up to date specs. It now seams to be slower than before. 40 more HP than 2001, you would expect it to be faster. I've considered getting a Hyperchip to increase performace will this work?
  • stalling; acceleration problems; transmission problems; if you're in California and have any of these issues please let me know, your input may be able to help others with same problems. thanks. :lemon:
  • When I have my AC on and put it in 4WD my AC kicks off and goes to defrost.It does the same in the winter when the heat is on. Also when I just have it in 4WD with nothing else on , it keeps kicking out of 4WD. Plus when I turn the switch on for the 4WD you can hear it click, but does not go into 4WD. Does anyone have any ideas on what could be the problem?
  • Milkdud,
    Sounds like you've got a Ford with a vaccuum leak. Vaccuum is used to pull in the shift on the fly front hubs and it's also used to control the position of the ventilation system. When you lose vaccuum the ventilation goes to the default position - defrost, and the 4x4 won't stay engaged.

    Start schecking all the vaccuum lines and fittings. Look for cracked or brittle vaccuum hose(s), but also check all the little plastic vaccuum fittings - the connectors and the "T's" The leak could be anywhere, but I'd probably start looking down around the automatic hubs. There's a couple of tricky placed where vaccuum lines go through the firewall that can crack but are hard to see.
  • How did you fix this? I have the same problem and then last night it just died. I got it to restart today but still uneasy about this...HELP!!
  • My truck runs great during the day. full AC on and radio going and the only problem I have is the windshield wipers just start. You have to fully turn them on and then back off againg to get them to stop. BUT at night when I have the lights on all electric gadgets strat to fade and then come back on. Last night it finally left my wife stranded. has anyone else had this problem? HELP~!!!!!
  • Just returned home from a trip, experiencing problem indicated crossing any road irregulaity with vibration which sounds like a bad bearing in froant end. Checking free wheeling hubs, one was tight to turn, Would that be an indication that it is possibly bad? Will next try hubs individually. Skrypek
  • Awhile back I had the same problem with loss of power and torgue pulling. The waste gate sensor in the turbo was replaced by the dealer. After which the diesel ran fine. skrypek
  • I've a 2004 F 150 Crew Cab,5.4 motor,32k miles.This is my first fullsize truck.The ride and handling seem a little less than when I bought it.I'm sure part of that is from the wear in the tires and maybe the shocks weakening.Driveability is not as good as new,sort of like driving a carbed motor,surges power not right there.
    I just cruise in this vehicle and 220 mi a wk to work and back.
    I know it is just a truck though.
    thank you
  • I have a 1989 F250 (bought used over a year ago). I only occasionally drive it, and for the last few months I've had to charge the battery each time the night before if I wanted to use it the next day. It would not even start a couple days later after a charge unless I charged it again first. Then it got to the place that it wouldn't charge up anymore at all. It wouldn't crank - nothing but the sound of the key going "click". I had the alternator checked out, and it only needed new bushings. But, it still wouldn't start. So, I bought a new battery even though the current battery was good, according to the parts store. When I attached the second battery cable of the new battery something up near the dipstick starting making an electrical pulsing sound, without the key in the ignition. The truck immediately started up, though. After a few minutes this zzzz zzzz sound stopped. The next day the truck won't start again. Any suggestions or help would be so appreciated!
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