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2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions



  • I hate to join the Bandwagon, i bought a 2005 f150 stx 4.2 cyl about a month ago. The steering wheel vibrates and
    it pulls to the left even on a flat even highway.

    1st trip to the shop they balanced and rotated the tires,
    measured the axles, checked hub run out and said its
    "much better".
    Sorry but much better and fixed are two different things
    in my book.
    It came back worse than before and is back in the shop
    as we speak.
    So it was there 2 days last week and today makes it
    3 days this week so far.
    I did make them give me a rental this time :-).
    So i cant complain too much yet, i have a 05 f150
    Quad cab to drive :-).
  • Thanks for the input. Once again My f-150 stx supercab will be going back to the shop. Bought it Sept 23, has less that 600 miles on it and still vibrates and dribbles after hitting any irregular road surface. Dealer and Ford rep (Engineer) have analyzed my truck on two "checkups" replacing an array of parts plus tires. As you stated dealer says its improved and its the nature of the beast. In shop for 20 days total. Please keep us posted as I will do the same. I have asked for a new truck or equal collateral. Otherwise I like the truck.
    Waiting for reply from dealer and Ford Motor Co..
  • jbudjbud Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 F-150 2wd with the 4.6L. The problem I am having is when I first start the truck I have no gauge movement for about a second or two then all of a sudden it chimes one time(like you leave the lights on with the key out of the ignition) then all the guages( oil, temp, speedo, rpm) redline for about two seconds then it resets itself and is fine. It just started doing this. It doesn't seem to be causing any problems so far any help would be appreciated.
  • Throttle shouldn't be that sensitive. I suggest slowing down and/or cruise control.
  • Mine does that too, at higher speeds. I know it's coming from hard wired cell phone and or cb antennaes. If you're not sure, unscrew your sticks and test fly.
  • Mine is newer, so water drain may be in a different location. Mine is a yellow "lever" at the bottom of the throttle body with a drain tube. I do it with engine running. Check owners manual to be sure.
  • Don't stomp it to the floor like a gasoline motor. Mine will totally cut out when I do that. The turbo diesel will pass pulling a trailer, very nicely if you accelerate enough to force a downshift, you don't need much more throttle than that.
  • I have experienced somewhat the same problem with my 1999 F250 Super Duty 4X4 with transmission leaks. I have 174K miles and have had little or no problems with it. However, 1 year ago I was backing a 22' trailer into my driveway which has about a 6% grade up into my yard. The trailer had surge brakes and it had my truck stopped. However, not knowing the surge brakes were being applied, I kept giving it the gas but nothing was moving. A good deal of tork was being applied by the engine and the transmission. I then notice that transmission fluid was almost pouring out near the front of the transmission...probably one to one and a half quarts onto the ground. After I parked the truck and refilled the transmission fluid back up. I left the truck to cool off and started it back up and there were no leaks any more and I didn't have a problem again for over a year until just recently. This time I noticed the transmission shifting rough for almost a full day. When I got home, transmission was again pouring out...maybe a 1/8" steam.

    Is there an "over pressure" or some type of valve in front of the transmission which would allow this to happen. I'm almost afraid to drive the truck now. Can anyone tell me what is going on.

    Thank you.
  • Well I have the truck back, and its not fixed.
    They replaced the drive shaft and said its a little better,
    in reallity its worse.
    I have to wait 4 weeks for them to get 2 new tires in,
    supposebly only one place that makes these tires and
    there backlogged.
    Meanwhile I have to drive the truck and put up with
    the vibrations. :mad: :mad:

    Does anyone know how widespread this problem is with
    the 2005?
  • We have a 1998 Ford 150, V8, 4.6 (Triton) that has only 47,000 miles on it. This truck has been taken care of and has had no problems until the last year or so. About six different times now, the engine has started missing and it's always the #4 spark plug. Somehow moisture is getting on it. We have changed all the plugs,and plug wires. We thought maybe the heater hoses was the culprit, so they have been changed. We have even switched the coils side to side. But the problem keeps happening from time to time. Always the exact same problem. My husband is a good mechanic, but we also took it to a professional. Problem keeps happening. Does anyone have any advice. Would appreciate it!
  • I am in the process of purchasing a 2005 F150 V8 and was wondering if there is a break in period that I should not tow? I need to tow a uhaul trailer and I wanted to see if I should do this or not with a brand new truck. Thanks!!
  • I have a 2001 ford f-150 and my question is has anyone had/have a right front axle seal leak between the half shaft and the tube axle. How do you get the axle out of the tube after the half shaft is off. I see no bolts or anything? Please help!!
  • I have a F250 4X4 crewcab that has an electrical problem. Has 3.34 amp draw from the battery. Battery goes dead after 2 days. Replaced alternator, battery, removed dash cluster and amps drop to 2.95, unplug PCM, 0 draw. Hook up either dash or PCM and problem occurs. any ideas??
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Doesn't necessarily mean the PCM is bad, it could just be activating a component that is. Try pulling relays and fuses until you hit the circuit that's causing the problem, then troubleshoot that circuit.
  • I've got a 2004 f250 super duty 4x4 with a 6 liter diesel. At times when idle'ing it will get verrry quiet... for about 4 seconds. Then comes back. In addition to that there is a scraping/thud sometimes seconds after starting... any ideas? thanks! Guy :confuse:
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    The a/c sometimes causes a thump soon after startup. Try starting with the a/c completely off (not just the fan), to eliminate it.
  • Hi texvet im new to this site however I own a 72 F-250 2wd the steering can be a number of things but the first thing to check is the rag joint between the steering box and your steering shaft they are of a rubber and cord type material and wear fast especialy if engine fluids leak on it, it will soften the rubber and cause alot of play in steering brake fluid is real bad on it. They are easy to replace I have replaced mine three times in eight years that i have been driving it this is a common thing for theses old trucks, the gear box can wear out too after all its only 34 yrs old it doesn,t owe you a thing. My truck is in very good cond,t was a daily driver until this fall now its going into storage for the first time in 34 yrs for the winter, as i now have over 10k invested in it. Its days of work are over now it gets to play in nice weather only, besides i cant afford the gas for it as a work truck it only gets 7mpg idling with 110 octane built up 390cid. I now own a 1996 F-150 4x4 for work. Let me know what you discover about this steering thing. I have a wealth of knowledge about 67-72 trucks and reasonable amount of parts a sources for them. Tim :blush:
  • I am trying to replace front brakes & rotors on a '96 F-150 XL. Problem is that both rotors are stuck, and not wanting to budge. I have already purchased new rotors, and am not really trying to salvage any part of the old ones so not too worried about how many pieces they come off in. Any ideas or suggestions??? Thanks!
  • Thanks for the info Mac24. This is with everything off..first start of the day...any advice on the idle noise..also my dipstick is impossible to read accuratly. I am begining to get worried about having to much oil in the truck. Reads the same wther I add 3 quarts or remove... :cry:
  • Is it a 2wd or 4wd? With 2wd you've got to remove the dust cap on the rotor, pull the cotter pin, and take the big nut off of the axle. Then pull on the rotor - the front bearing should pop out and then you can pull the rotor off.

    I'm not sure on the particulars for 4wd front end. I assuming you've got to remove the front hub and bearing assemblies before you can remove the rotor. Pick up a Haynes or similar manual for your truck to see the details for a brake job.

    Are you planning on replacing or just cleaning and repacking the wheel bearings?
  • Well I found what the vibration was. After tearing the rear apart I found a spider gear assmbly, side gear was worn. Why??? Not sure so i just installed a "new" rear and problem is gone. The drive shaft may be bent but most if not all vibration is gone. Thanks for the replys
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    The 6.0 has a whole bunch of interesting 'characteristics' and the idle may be one of them. There's another forum with a fairly obvious name that I'm not allowed to mention here, that has a section devoted to the 6.0.

    As for the oil level, there's only one way to be sure, and that's to drain the existing oil and refill with exactly the specified amount. Then check the dipstick to see, and if necessary mark, the level at which that amount rises to.
  • jimn3jimn3 Posts: 2
    So has anyone had any luck with their dealer fixing either the clunk on take-off or the headliner rattle? It sounds to me like these are probably design defects that Ford must be getting a lot of complaints about.

    Has anyone had their dealer acknowledge the clunk problem and say that Ford has issued a "dealer advisory" or anything?

    I haven't taken my '05 SCREW in for the clunk yet but I don't intend to accept "it's normal" or "there is no fix" for an answer. At the very least I plan on demanding an extended drive train warranty. We'll see what happens.
  • I have a 2002 f150 supercrew and every other week the truck wont start, it cranks fine but just wont start? I did notice that the "anti theft" light continually flashes. It has done this 4 times in the past and each time after a long period of inactivity (6hrs or so) it will start. The dealer claims they cant help me unless I bring it in in a failed state. Can anyone help me with this?
  • Try taking off the negative battery terminal cable for a couple of minutes and then put it back on. The computer gets whacky sometimes and this may reset it. It worked for me with the same problem.
  • Have you tried a tune-up? Plugs, wires, cap & rotor, cleaning throttle body of coking etc.
  • Hate to tell you, but it sounds like the center support inside the tranny is bad. Most likely gonna need a new tranny if you want to fix this problem.
  • Fuel pressure is good, coils appear to be good, altenator checks good, cleaned throttle body, has new sparkplugs. Never sets a code. I am leaning toward bad injectors or an ECM. Has anybody got any other ideas?
  • I have a 2005 F-150 with 26K miles and there seems to be a strange grinding noise coming from either the drive train or transmission. I'm only able to make it happen when driven for a while, parking it for ~10 minutes and beginning to drive it again. Can't tell where it's coming from exactly as it only happens for ~ 10 seconds and goes away.
    Any idea as to to the problem??
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