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2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions



  • crankshaftcrankshaft OHIOPosts: 105
    i felt i should respond since i drive an 87 f150.i do remember hearing on a tv commercial that the new fords do have a boxed frame.i would think a boxed frame might be stronger but would be prone to rust out.once the muck finds its way in there it will rust.i think i would stay away from the fords just because of all the problems i read about on these forums.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    ..........I know it is 17 years old but to have the frame rot away? And not even on the more exposed to salt driver's side?

    I'm no flag waver for Ford, but complaining about rust-through on a frame that's seventeen years old and is exposed to winter road salt.............please!!!!! :surprise:

    Have a look at the 'Dodge Problems' forum and you'll see a lot of vibration problems there as well, though not as many as with the current F150. One alternative you might consider is an F250/350 Superduty. Similar pricing to the F150 and (virtually) no vibration issues.
  • mje1mje1 Posts: 1
    Had almost exactly the same symptoms with my 2002 F-250. Ended up being a faulty ignition coil. Replaced it and everythings runs great.
  • Mac24, thanks for the post. You're right: the F250 and F150 are identical in price and the F250 fares much better in resale. Is the frame the same for a F250 as on a F150? (I realize the suspension is different.) We're told that the boxed frame on the Ram 1500 is the same as the 2500 but that there are more cross members on the 2500.

    Please don't take me for a yuppie whiner about the rust through frame. I've never seen it happen before on anything we've owned (Jeep Grand Wagoneer, Cherokees, Grand Cherokees, Volvos, etc.) all of which are still in service and have seen many New England winters.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    The F250 has a different frame to the F150, and it's been in production for many more years. I can't remember whether it's boxed or not, but I don't think it's relevant as there are many vehicles with boxed frames that don't have vibration problems.
  • i geuss im one of the lucky ones,my 97 f-150 4x4 has 96000 mi. all i have done is the ex. manifold bolts, but now i have a shimmy at 35 to 45 mpr only when i am pulling our camper or towing my son`s GMC and cant figure out why. need some help thanks chuck :confuse: ">
  • Mac24, thanks. No, I wasn't attributing vibration problems to boxed frames. I think that a boxed frame would in fact be preferable. The next time though I pop for a new pickup I'll do the Maine trick and spray used motor oil in a mixture of sawdust all over the bottom of the truck each fall.
  • the bed on my truck bounces everytime I go over small bumps or uneven surfaces. I had it checked out at the dealership but they told me that all the new 2005's do this but this is not normal. It seems to bounce and vibrate more on the drivers side. It is very annoying. They told me they tightened down the bed but it still does the same thing. How do I fix this?
  • I have a 99 F-150 and the plastic tailgate protector needs to be replaced. Is it glued on?
  • I have had this same problem with my F-150 (ignition coil)
    I have replaced two of them within 90,000 miles
    I wonder if there are alot of others with the same problems
    Im going to guess probably so....
    Other than this rather exspensive anoynce Im very happy with my F-150
    Leave it to Ford to build a vehicle with electrical problems.
    Go figure huh????
  • pbstpbst Posts: 4
    Hi guitarjim. I'm considering the purchase of a 2005 F150 XLT SuperCrew (2WD). But the many posts re: vibration problems give me pause. I'd be curious to learn if your emergency brake fix worked long-term. If so, I may move forward with the purchase, especially given the huge discount I've been offered ($22.5k vs. $31k MSRP).
  • Is it difficult to change fuel filters on F50 diesels? How do you drain the water? and is that difficult?
  • Have called Ford Motor representatives and still waiting to hear from Ford regional representative. Still having the same dribble and vibration problem. Have written to my dealer but to no avail; they even ignore registered mail sent Nov. 8, 05. Truck has 800 miles on it. Will keep everyone posted and please do the same.
  • After turning only one time the next inspection 2 weeks later showed severe heat cracks on the rotors.

    Ford make some new rotors that are a little thicker and will stand up somewhat longer for the F-350. I haul heavy loads and the brakes have always been a problem.

    Last 6 months or less.

    rarlaud :cry:
  • I have had a new short block installed at Ford.

    When you take off from stop it accelerates like gang busters for the first 8-10ft and falls on its face. Afer a few seconds it runs normal and continues to excellerate.

    If you punch the accerator peddel 1 inch and let off the desiel will stall completely. Not much fun shooting cross an intersection.

    Removed chip and it still stalls.

  • There is a new product out that was at the SEMA show. Exactbalance by IMI. It is a wheel weight that is put in the middle of your wheel. It has steel shot in the weight that moves at different speeds. We have done 6 Ford pickups with them and it cured the problem.
  • Still looking for help in changing the fuel filter on my F350 diesel...Any help out there?
  • My 1998 F-150 Lariat ABS system began malfunctioning immediately after I replaced the left front brake caliper with a rebuilt and installed new bendix brake pads and bendix rotors. I have the 5.4 L engine with 72,000 miles. I believe I bled the system properly. The problem is that as I coming to a slow stop and am nearly stopped the ABS frquently actuates unexpectedly causing the truck to roll forward a foot or two further than I intended. This could cause an unsafe situation so I disconnected the fuse to disable ABS. My local independent garage could find no code called out. I have not yet visited a Ford dealer as I think they may have to spend a great deal of time on this. I hoped to solve the problem myself. Does anyone have any experience with this problem.
  • semacsemac Posts: 3
    Hi All,

    I just recently purchased a 2002 Ford Ranger XLT Supercab with the 4.0 liter/6cylinder engine with 95,000 km (Canada). The problem is I only get 250 km (150 miles) per tank of gas, is this normal? I called a Ford dealer and they say yes it is! This doesn't even meet the low end of their spec of 12mpg.
    I'll go broke keeping this thing filled with gas. Any suggestions????
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Saying you get 150 miles per tank doesn't really mean much, especially if the fuel gauge indicates empty while there's several gallons left.

    You need to calculate your mpg by comparing miles driven and gallons used. Make sure you measure it over several tank fills, and if possible check the accuracy of the odometer with a GPS.
  • My '95 Club Wagon with a 302 V-8 has an coolant leak.I am having a hard time detecting the source of the leak. I replaced the water pump about 40,000 miles ago; and have 155,000 miles on it now. The weap hole on the water pump shows no sign of leakage. All of the hoses look good. Any suggestions?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Leaking head gasket pressurizing the cooling system and causing coolant loss via the pressure cap?
  • tadragtadrag Posts: 10
    Get underneath and check below the back of the LH head (driver side). Mine had a slow leak that went undetected for a long time because the fluid hits a hot spot and evaporates before it hits the ground. I think the gasket between the intake manifold and the head is the problem one.

    Tom D
  • Hi, I have a 1997 F250 Powerstroke truck. All was fine until I removed the right battery. It was out for about four days. I did nothing with the truck during this time. When I put the battery back in three or four relays (left side of dash on top and under the hood in front of the brake cylinder)will click away for roughly ten seconds then stop. This will always start again when I try to start it. Turning the key to the on position lights what look like the normal dash lights but nothing happens when I turn it to the crank position. I did find that the battery that was left connected in the truck was down to about five volts. After charging there was no difference. When I connect the first battery (when both are unhooked)it arcs like the lights or something are on. Everything is off. Sorry so long winded. Any help would be appreciated.
    Thanks, Ed
  • I just had the same problem for the first time back in the first week of Nov. Took it to the dealership and all they could find was mosture in the coil park on # 4 cylinder. I have never had a problem with this until then. I have a 2000 f150 lariat 5.4L with 120,000 miles on it and I live in Fl with all that moisture and the age and miles on the motor you would think I would have had more trouble.
  • Winchel: Thanks so much for the information pertinent to the dribble and vibration problems of my new F-150 pickup. I will inform my dealer as to this possible solution... thanks to you. Could you tell me what SEMA is?
  • tadragtadrag Posts: 10
    I had the same problem with my '98 4.6. I was changing plugs at 55,000 miles and found moisture in the number 4 RH plug socket (passanger side). The truck had been running OK, but had a check engine light and the code said bad wires and/or plugs. I talked to the local Ford shop and they said the moisture problem was common the 5.4's and less common on the 4.6, and that there was a fix related to the heater hose plumbing etc that hangs on the firewall above that bank of the engine. I never could locate a leak and shortly later traded it in.

    Hope this helps.

  • semacsemac Posts: 3
    The 150 miles per tank is using the full tank 19.5 gallons which means I am getting 7.6 miles per gallon.

    Is this normal?
  • SEMA = Specialty Equipment Manufacturers Association.

    This is the trade association for the guys that separate the do it yourself car enthusiasts from their wallets (and often good taste).
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    ........I am getting 7.6 miles per gallon. Is this normal?

    Certainly isn't! Poor fuel consumption can be caused by, or contributed to, by anything from a blocked air filter to binding brakes (or a hundred things in between, including an enthusiastic right foot!).
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