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2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions



  • In my 2002 F-150 Super Crew, I can not get any air to come out of the floor vent. It seems to be diverted to the defrosters. I have an EATC (Electronic Automatic Temperature Control)with a button for floor, panel/floor, defroster etc...
    When I push the automatic button, all the air goes to the defroster. When I push the panel/floor button all the air goes to the panel. I ran the on board diagnostic by pushing the floor and off button at the same time and then the automatic button as Chilton suggests. The diagnostic ran, but no codes showed up. Any suggestions as to what the problem might be or how to isolate the problem? You help would be appreciated. :confuse:
  • I have a 99 F-150 Lariat Supercab stepside,5.4L, 4X4. Somtimes when accelerating, the truck shakes. When I ease off the accelerator, the shaking stops, but when I accelerate again, the shaking starts anew. This does not happen all the time.

    Any thoughts on causes?

    In addition, the signal side mirrors have lost their "silver," and it is difficult to see out of them. This seems to be common as I have seen it on other F-150s.

    Can the lenses be changed out, or will I have to replace the entire mirror assembly?

    Thanks for your responses!
  • I have a 2004 f250 superduty that i bought wrecked and am in the rebuilding process.When i got it the only part of the exhaust that was there was the turbo down pipe and when you would start it as you can imagine you could really hear the turbo when it was at an idle.I started it up the other day and no turbo.I have put on a four inch exhaust since then and took it down the road and going up hill it has no power or acceleration at all.On level ground it seems to run ok up to 2500 rpms and thats the end of it.I have installed new fuel filters ,air filter,no holes in any of the hoses,checked the turbo bearing and its turning fine so it's not the bearings.Any ideas?
  • My 99 F250 did the same thing and what i found was my windshield was leaking and the water was running down the left windshield post trim panel and going straight in the fusebox.Hope it's that simple
  • dugupdugup Posts: 2
    My 2000 Ford F250 Super Duty won't engage the front drive axle when I shift (ESOF) from 2WD to either 4High or 4Low. The drive motor on the transfer case will run (it cycles three times and quits) but nothing happens? The front axle will not engage. The motor is V10. The hubs are set to auto. The 4X4 light on the dash only lights during the test sequence when starting the truck. I'm the original owner and have used the 4X4 extensively until now. I had some diagnostic work done at Ford dealer and indications are the drive motor on the transfer case, but they were not real definitive. Since it is a $500+ dealer only part I was hoping for some other suggestions or alternatives?
  • sip1sip1 Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 with 12,000 miles I'm having the same problem there were rotated 3 times
    i"ve been battling with my dealor they don't want to doing anything about the problem there telling me it's an alignment problem I think the the tires just suck!
  • I have a 1998 F-150 4x4 - my battery drains overnight but will charge up and run. My air bag light comes on and off - my overdrive light comes on and off and my 4x4 light comes on and off - all at random times.

    My fan seems to run if I don't shut off the climate selector when I turn the truck off.

    Can anyone give me some suggestions? Thanks,
  • I own an 04 F150 crew cab XLT with the 5.4L motor. I just had my oil changed at 12k miles and the tech showed me the oil fill cap. It had yellowish sludge in it and he shook out what looked to be water. There did not appear to be any water in the oil it self. At least it looked normal. It is my 4th oil change since buying the vehicle new. Someone I work with has the same truck with slightly more miles on it and her cap was the same as mine. Any one notice this and is it a problem. Thanks
  • Do you do a lot of short hops with the truck where it never gets to fully warm up? If so it's not getting a chance to boil off all the condensation, so it shows up as the milky sludge under the oil cap.

    If your coolant level is falling, however, it could be a sign of head gasket leak into the engine. Not very likely at 12K miles.
  • Frequently, my door ajar light will come on and the dome light will not turn off. I tried opening and closing all the doors, and cleaning out the sensors in all the doors. The dome light goes off when I drive, but when I stop, it comes back on. The door ajar light never goes off. I am driving an 2001 F-350 Super Duty. Any ideas?
  • I own a 1985 F 250 6.9 Diesel. The problem is with the interior panel corner strip where the seatbelt above the back of the bench seat. They are deteriorating on both sides(L&R) Have checked with several dealers They say that they are not any longer avaiable. The truck has 74,000 original miles. would like to keep it a little while longer. Any Ideas or can you put me in the right direction to purchase the items.
  • fras1fras1 Posts: 1
    My 98 F250 Light Duty does the same thing, except after its parked, the dome light stays on for a half hour or so, then turns off. The door ajar light never goes off. The problem originally seemed to be activated by only the passenger door, but now it is activated by both doors. I have found no reference to this problem in Chilton's manual. Any info would be appreciated.
  • I have a 2002 F350 with crew cab and power locks with keyless entry. The locks are not working properly, they will lock or unlock but one time only. If you get it to lock they will not unlock right away, after driving for a bit they might but only once again. I took my battery cable off and it reset and worked one time again, if I keep taking the cable off it will work every time but only once.It acts like something is sticking and not resetting to operate again, any ideas? I have read where someone thought it might be the vehicle security module any input?
    UPDATE I have had my locks work as much as 10 times in a row and then they stop again, I hear a clicking from the VSModule that I have removed to inspect. I am thinking of buying a new one, doe's anyone know if you would have to have it programed for sure? Ford never gave me a clear answer one way or the other.Thanks

    Thanks PwrStrokin
  • 5ft195ft19 Posts: 1
    95 f-150 4x4, Multiple electrical problems.
    Dual fuel tank switch kills engine when switching to rear tank. (Both tanks are full)
    Lost speedometer & odometer readings, Over drive light flashes,
    On dash 4wd. switch, hi-low range lights come on 5 seconds after turning off.
    I checked headlight switch & harness for shorts and didn't
    find anything. (Suggested problem by auto electric tech.)
    Thanks for any help.
  • 95 F-250 XL 4x4, will not turn rear drive line in any gear and driveline is locked. Front line turns by hand as does the rear transaxle when diconnected. I noticed the transmission doesn't sound like it's engaging, but I can hear the engine react to clutch being engaged.I'm starting to pull the transfer case now, but I didn't know if anyone has seen a similar problem.
  • I have the same problem with my 99 F250 super duty. It appears to be a ghost. At times I think I have it resolved, and then it comes back. It is highly intermittent on occasions a trip to the store it works fine then the ride home it is malfunctioning again. Sometimes a slam of the door corrects it.In the Haynes repair manual page 12-27 the dotted line area at the top of the page you see two relays and the central timer module this detects the door ajar status, and energizes the relays After a preset time the battery saver relay de-energizes in turn de-energizing the interior lamp relay. The relays are in the power distribution box. Don't know where to find the generic electronic module. Help me find it I might be able to troubleshoot it. Thanks in advance.
  • gap2gap2 Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 F150 suppercab Lariat with a keyless entry and a driver side keypad, securilock anti-theft, and my door locks/unlocks stop working for all methods (keypad, remote, and on the inside door switch). I don't here any clicking when I try to lock/unlock them. I also tried disconnecting the battery but it still does not work. I was reading my owners guide and it talks about having to get the authorized dealer to "Deactivate/activate the power door lock disable feature" (page 107). Any ideas?

    I read some info on sticky actuators and also that they may get dirt/rust in them but I think it was addressing the 1997-2000.

  • Two F150 Problems - Shaking and 4.6L Engine Ticking
    Shaking: :lemon:
    I bought a 2005 150 in August, in Sept. noticed a "shaking" pulling away from a car wash. Stopped the truck, applied emergency brake and released. Drove a bit with horrendous shaking. Applied same procedure, no result. Applied parking brake slightly while driving forward, shake worsened. Arrived at home and next day, no shaking. 1 month later my wife and family were driving the "mystery machine" and had to pull over - thinking they nad a flat tire. Checked tires, no flats, resumed travel - shake-shake-shake and then it stopped. Wife couldn't exactly describe the shake, so we drove together and I applied the emergency brake lightly and shake-shake-shake. No response or repair by service department as yet.
    Ticking: :lemon:
    The "gutless" 4.6L engine has a ticking noise after it warms up. Went to service at 1,000 miles. They told my wife that "All 4.6L engines do this." Have listened to several and they do not "All" do this. Seems to become noticable after warm-up indicating that a hydralic lifter is not retaining pressure, also notice a slight miss while the engine is ticking. Anyone else notice this ticking, rocker noise after warm up??
  • dmontzdmontz Posts: 1
    My problem is it wasnt starting i found out it had a broken
    actuator assembley.I took it apart but my problem is i cant
    get the actuator assembley to go slide in .Can anyone help or have good picture of the column and acuator
  • I, After years of cursing my Ford for doing the same thing have the answer for you. I took it to a new dealership (sick of being robbed by the old one) for something else and they fixed it for free. The lubricant on/in the door sensors had dried up and become sticky causing them to fail intermittently. They popped the door-panels and lubed them. 6 weeks, no problems.
  • My '05 F-250 4x4 doesn't appear to be shifting into 4WD Hi when I activate the ESOF on the dash. I have the hubs in AUTO and I can hear the selonoid activating but the vehicle doesn't "behave" as it's actually engaged.

    Has anyone else had this issue? I haven't had back to the dealer yet.
  • I had the same problem with the door ajar and interior light coming on for no reason. Farmerted1's answer is correct and the problem is simple to fix. Open the door and spray WD-40 in the door latch slot. This will lubricate the latch and sensors. I did this 4 years ago on my 1999 F-250 and my problem stopped immediately and has never come back.
  • dugupdugup Posts: 2
    See my post #1812. Similiar problem with my 2000 F250. I got some advice to check all the fuses to make sure they are not loose. I think there are three in cab panel and one under the hood that all provide some power the this circuit. Unfortuneatly, most of the folks I've talked to seem to think it's the solenoid motor. Ford wants over 500 dollars.
  • andreeandree Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 ford f-150 i put a body lift on it but my front end isn't level does anybody know if there is a downside to adjusting the torsion bars to lift it up an inch or two
  • My son has a 1995 F150 4x4 that is not charging after 15 to 20 minutes of running. We have replaced the battery and the alternator with new items. The voltage reading is around 13.8 volts but drops to around 10 volts after 15 to 20 minutes of running. The alternator was checked by the parts store and showed ok while running on the test equipment. The truck has been taken to two local repair shops and the problem is still there. Any hints or suggestions ? Thanks
  • jnealjneal Posts: 247
    Defective alternator. Or perhaps I should say "defective voltage regulator." I believe it is built into the alternator on that model. After becoming hot the regulator is breaking down......
    Been there, done that, and got the T-shirt to prove it!!!!!
  • To 1825. Just bought new 150 supercab w/ 5.4 triton. Truck vibrates big time. Dealer says must be tires. Tires are changed out. Vibration still exists. Dealer now says possible drivetrain problem. Dealer Tech calls Fri. 26 Jan 06 says a counter balance on truck body has been installed and vibration has been reduced. Scuttlebutt has it that Ford changed driveshaft venders, went to all steel shafts and new vender cannot turn them out true. I have been a loyal Ford buyer since '65; over 23 purchased units to date. Very ticked. Also, is the body skin very thin or am I losing it? bigdave3.
  • I have a 2005 F150 4x4 crewcab which I purchased in April of 2005. I have noticed a vibration (almost like rolling over a rumble strip) which occurs for a few seconds each time I begin to roll forward and my wheels are turned some (like at an intersection). The vibration stops as soon as I get over 10-15 mph. Anyone having this same problem? Does anyone know the solution to it?
  • Hello i've a ford f350 4x4 (automatic shifting) 2004.
    When I'm starting the control of 4 wheel drive won't blink and shifting from 2wd to 4wd-high or 4wd-low isn't working.
    Solenoid motor is good when i get external power supply it's turning ,but i can't shift it form a 3-pos switch on the board. Has anyone know where are going cables from solenoid motor (2 cables orange and yellow )...
  • My 2004 F150 4X4,automatic, 5.4 liter has started the "Vibration Thing" at 21000 miles. When I make a sharp turn from a stop under acceleration the rear end / drive train vibrates severely. Also as I am straighting up from the turn it vibrates again.

    It appears to me to be the limited slip differential or posi-traction rear end. The posi-traction rear end has clutch plates that are engaged when going in a straight line. On road curves and sharp turns one side of the clutch pack should disengage to allow free wheeling on one side. I think the clutch pack is not operating properly. This was an old problem with the old posi-traction rear ends (1955-65) but the new stuff is not suppose to chatter around corners.

    I plan to take it to the dealer for repair under warranty. Either an oil additive to help release the clutch pack causing the chatter problem or a new clutch pack. The "Rice Burners" do not have this problem. Could this be a "Secret Recall" item from Ford?
This discussion has been closed.