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2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions



  • garett1garett1 Posts: 2
    99 E-150 4.2L V-6. Over 400,000 miles on original motor (American Quality). My problem is the a trouble code that is causing me to fail emission testing. Failed speed sensor code, check engine and abs dash lights are both on. I replaced the sensor and still nothing. Also the speedometer is still not working. I have to correct the code, and suggestions?
    Proud Ford owner
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    Since you have an E-150, you may want to stop in the Full Sized Vans discussion. F-Series owners probably won't be able to help you much beyond the engine.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • emtdawnemtdawn Posts: 26
    I'm glad you wrote so much. We have a 05, F-150 and are dealing with almost the same thing. Our vibrations are at 65 up to 72mph. The have aligned the truck, replaced the calipers, taken the rotors down a little, indexed the tires/wheels, and now want to do that again, but oh, somewhere in the middle of that, I needed two new tires..and then two more new tires.. $600 dollars later and guess what..It was never the tires. We didn't have this problem until Ford got a hold of the truck to do an alignment..we just had a pull to the right and too much travel in the brakes.. Now, we are about $1,000 out, 8 trips to the Ford Dealer and several rentals later. We go again tomorrow because they didn't want to pay for the rotors to be turned again.. gee... the idiot couldn't even look up on his computer that they had already done that two weeks earlier... and also indexed the tires/wheels then too. We are in Crystal River, Florida.. so I guess when Mr. Ford decides how he wants to save his company.. he should start asking us.. Thanks again for the info.
  • emtdawnemtdawn Posts: 26
    Don't know about the average, but our 1994, 4x4 was always taken care of with regular maintenance and we still have it. We have 268,000 + miles on it. Doesn't burn oil, no leaks and the engine purrs like a kitten. Body is in good shape too. We have a 2005 that is giving us the vibration trouble..they are trying to say it's everything that they have already done and doing again.
  • emtdawnemtdawn Posts: 26
    Pretty sure you are going to have to get into the gear box to fix that. Good luck.
  • emtdawnemtdawn Posts: 26
    Could be you are pumping up dirt or water that is in the fuel tank. drop the tank and flush it and start there. Once you do that, then replace the inline fuel filter too. This could very well be a water problem if not dirt.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Mirrors my experience on my '93 5.0 XLT, which was built back when job quality really was #1. Regularly serviced, over 175k+, only parts replaced were normal wear items like wipers, belt, brakes, tires etc. Held off from purchasing the first model year of the 'new' F150 and I'm so glad I did.

    I know what you mean about Ford of Crystal River, but don't think too badly of the techs. Their reimbursement for warranty work is pretty sad. :(
  • Have you had anymore severe vibration problems on your Ford pickup? FYI, I repalced the front coil springs and it handles very good now. The original 4800 coils were tooo stiff. The new ones are rated 4000. Total cost was $184.00. Best Regards, Tom.
  • Exactly the same thing has just happend to my 2000 F250. Yesterday the ABS, O/D light flashing and the speedometer.
    Today the check engine light joined the party. Did you find out what the problem was?
  • mschmalmschmal Posts: 1,757
    You need to have your head examined.

  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I'm assuming that you meant that in the nicest possible way? :surprise:

    An ABS failure indication light (assuming that it's not a sensor problem) tells you that the ABS system is not functioning. It's not an indication of total brake failure. Your brakes will function in just the same way as those on a vehicle without ABS.
  • hipstrahipstra Posts: 4
    My 2004 F-150 front wheel drive unit clicks / pops on every wheel rotation when the 4 wheel drive is engaged. This happens in low and high range. It is the dashboard activated system with a H4W and L4W selection.

    Sounds like the CV drive unit to the front axle could be going bad.

    I've only got 2 K miles left on the warranty so to the dealer it goes. Anyone seen this problem?

  • After removing the cat converter and muffler from my '03 6.0L, I began having rough idle problems. The dealer told me it was because of the modified exhaust (it causes the computer to retard or advance the turbo because of the lack of backpressure). Is this true of the '03 and is there a solution aside from replacing the parts?
    I love the sound and the added power.

  • cjlaw33cjlaw33 Posts: 4
    I know this was mentioned before but I didn't find a solution and am looking for any advice anyone can give. I have a 99' F-350 Superduty 7.3L Diesel, and it constantly makes the whining noise when I turn (loud). I also have to be in motion to turn it or else it won't turn. I recently replaced the power steering pump and it's not any better, maybe worse. I am not a mechanic by any means and am not sure what else to do. Isn't there something else that might need replaced or maybe the lines flushed out or something? Any ideas? Thanks.

  • camocscamocs Posts: 1
    Is your truck lifted at all? Are your inner fenders in place? My 2001 supercrew is lifted and when it rains I sometimes need to take the number 2 COP off. Remove the cop but don't remove the plug. Use a wet/dry vacuum to suck the water out of that. Once the water is out of the chamber check the plug. If there is water down the chamber you should (Sometimes)get a Code? Take it down to the parts shop unless you have an OBD II code checker. Autozone will do it for you. find out if you have a code. Bet it says the same code for a misfire or bad COP?
  • tim79tim79 Posts: 2
    I have a 2005 F-250 with about 17000 miles on it and the clutch went out on it. I took it to the dealer and of course it's not under warranty. When they replaced the clutch, they said it was so far gone it messed up the starter. Total to replace both, $2500 and change for a truck that doesn't even have 20000 miles on it. This is a work truck and I do use it to haul things, but isn't that what it was built for? I know how to drive, I have 3 standard transmission trucks and and a Jeep wrangler and a Mustang that are both standards. I have a '94 Chevy 3500 that has 90000 miles on it and as had one clutch put in it. I Just think it's rediculous to put $2500 in a brand new truck when I have a '94 chevy that I don't pay that much to maintain. Does something seem wrong here or should I just shut up and pay the money? Any help would be appreciated.
  • mschmalmschmal Posts: 1,757
    Another reason NOT to buy stick for a work vehicle. With automatic, the whole transmission is covered by warranty.

  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    They're correct in that the clutch friction plate is considered a wear item, though you might want to read your warranty for precise details, as brakes are also a wear item yet will usually be covered for x miles or the first year on most vehicles. However, it would be interesting to hear how a worn clutch can damage the starter!
  • I just purchased an '03 F150 Lariat supercrew SB W/tow pkg. Upon going over the controls/functions, I discovered a small, round, black "rocker style" switch located where the front airbag switch would normally be, just below the vent adjacent to the climate controls, and I cannot, for the life of me, figure out what it's for. Noone else seems to know either. Any ideas?
  • Does it have rear backup sensors on the rear bumper? If so it may be the switch to turn the sensors off when your hooked up to a trailer. My 06 has a push button.
  • fordalfordal Posts: 2
    My 1998 F150 XL went dead today at a traffic light. Towed it to the Ford dealer and I'm waiting for diagnosis tomorrow. Hoping it's battery, alternator or something fixable. I am very, very attached to that truck, as I was to the Ford Explorer we had before we bought the truck. Never thought I would like anything as much as that Explorer, this F150 proved me wrong!
    I've read with much interest the posts on this site tonight......this truck has had it's share of problems too, rotora, brakes, calipera hanging up, ABS, sensors, fuel pump, I think I replaced the alternator a couple of years ago. All things being said, it's been (and hopefully will continue to be) a great truck, reliable and safe. I now hope it's reasonable to fix, would like to get it to 250,000 before it gets a much deserved rest. By the way, the truck has seen it's share of trailer towing too, about 3 weeks a year since we got it. Just needed a place to share thoughts and hoping this isn't an obituary!
    We also own a 04 Ford 150, though hubby uses that one. No problems with it. Still like my 98, though..............
  • i have a 92 f-150 5.8 and the blinkers start out normal and then they get really fast just need to know what to check or how to fix it?
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    Sounds like your flasher is dying... simple plug-in replacement. I never had to change mine on my 90 and 93 F150s, but it is usually on or next to the fuse panel. Manual should tell you for sure.
  • emtdawnemtdawn Posts: 26
    We have a "94" and sounds like the same truck. Regular maintenance and these trucks keeping trucking. I couldn't believe that NADA price on ours with 268,000 is still up at $7,000. Keep that truck! We not only pulled trailers but we actually pulled out tree stumps in Florida to clear or building site. These older trucks were built with the Ford quality I wish the newer ones had. Not complaining too much on our 05 but for the short time we had it, it's been in 6 times for a vibration problem. However, they did get it fixed when we started talking "Lemon"..amazing. Good luck.
  • emtdawnemtdawn Posts: 26
    More than likely your flasher. Easy job, in your fuse panel. Unless you of course, have one bulb burned out, that will cause pretty much the same thing.
  • emtdawnemtdawn Posts: 26
    Sounds like your flasher too. They're inexpensive. Located in your fuse panel. Any parts place has them.
  • blckislandguyblckislandguy Posts: 1,150
    Re: How can a worn clutch damage the starter.

    Easy. (In fact any high school boy in the '50s would know this.). The driver either through ineptitude and/or a worn clutch kept stalling the truck. He then repeatedly tried to restart it too quickly, ground teeth off of the flywheel ring gear which damaged the starter drive gear. Happens all the time.
  • canddmeyercanddmeyer Posts: 410
    At the opposite end of this my 1985 F250 4X4 had the starter chewing the teeth off the flywheel, and I had an automatic/460 combo. The dealer was unable to duplicate the no start problem on multiple visits until they once again went to return me the truck and it wouldn't start. Still, I'd be skeptical of your dealer. Next thing you know they'll be blaming your blown rear end and split crankshaft on the worn clutch.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Re: How can a worn clutch damage the starter.

    Easy. (In fact any high school boy in the '50s would know this.). The driver either through ineptitude and/or a worn clutch kept stalling the truck. He then repeatedly tried to restart it too quickly, ground teeth off of the flywheel ring gear which damaged the starter drive gear. Happens all the time.

    Oh no, you don't get away with it that easily! :shades:

    First, the damaged starter is clearly caused by the ineptitude of the driver, not the worn clutch.

    Second, a worn clutch will cease to transmit drive to the wheels. The engine will therefore not stall but will happily spin away while the vehicle remains stationary.

    It's like saying that your worn tire was the cause of the blowout, and therefore responsible for the totalling of your vehicle. No, you were the cause, for operating the vehicle with a worn tire.

    It wasn't the fault of the clutch that the starter/ring gear/bendix failed in your scenario, it was the fault of the operator.

    However, in the original post the dealer was claiming that the clutch was so badly worn that it had damaged the starter, hence my question "How does a worn clutch damage the starter?". The only situation I can imagine, which doesn't appear to be the case here, is that the clutch fragments at high rpm and small pieces jamb between the ring gear and bendix, ripping the two apart.
  • this might help you at work we a gmc and it did the same thing and i replaced both front abs sensors and the problem was gone i know you have a ford but abs is abs
    try it
This discussion has been closed.