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Chevy Tracker



  • poorcruzerpoorcruzer Posts: 141
    Arkainzeye is right on the mark. Go AMSOIL Synthetic 80w-90 GL-5, 1 litre for the front pumpkin, 2.3 litres for the rear. 75w-90 GL-5 for the transfer case which will take 1.7 litres. For the American conversion 3.78 litres equals 1 U.S. gallon. Be careful when doing your sparkplugs, make sure they are threaded in correctly and not crossthreaded before you lay a wrench to tighten them. Use a good anti seize on the threads which will make it easier to take them out next time. It is a pity that Suzuki/Chev doesn't install grease fittings anywhere on the suspension or U-joints from the factory. The Toyota landcruisers all had fittings everywhere. If your U-joints have to be replaced, get grease fittings attached. The shop manual for that truck is still available from Helms Inc for 135.00 U.S. The manual is two books 11 by 14 by 6 inches thick and is year specific to your vehicle, all the info to take your truck apart and put it back together is in this manual. Don't buy the Han"""" manual.
  • arkainzeyearkainzeye pittsburgh paPosts: 473
    make sure the transfer case is NOT GL-4, if it is, you do Not want to put a GL-5 inside. it could damage any brass that may be inside... i remember one of the oil i ordered for my tracker i had to be careful with. i mean make sure i order the right kind. and i believe this was the transfer case.
  • poorcruzerpoorcruzer Posts: 141
    Sorry if I forgot to ask which powertrain you had in your rig. I have the V6 which takes GL-5 in the transfer case. Go to an Amsoil website and they have an application guide for your vehicle. Thanks for catching it Arkainzeye. I wonder if anybody has put grease fittings in their truck, most mechanics these days don't wont to bother putting them in. My flashing 4WD light turned out to be a PCM shorted out. Waited a week for the part only to find out when install it showed a code for the actuator pump had shorted out the cuicuit. Have to wait another week for that part. I can't wait for the truck to be out of warranty so I can take it to Suzuki.
  • arkainzeyearkainzeye pittsburgh paPosts: 473
    i seen where you said your pcm shorted out. what is a pcm and what does it do. I was also just wondering. what caused it to short out?
  • I'm looking for the plastic clips that the side rear window on a 96 Tracker clips into. They bolt to the body and are like plastic rails for the lip on the window to lock into. All info will be greatly appreciated.

  • sharonvsharonv Posts: 2
    Can anyone tell me the name of a Repair Manual for a 2000 Chevy Tracker. We are tring to replace the front brake Rotors and are having problem removing the old ones.

    I appreciate you help.

  • harold3harold3 Posts: 6
    Haynes 1986 thru 2001 # 90010. At most auto stores.
  • poorcruzerpoorcruzer Posts: 141
    Powertrain control module. What it does specifically I am not sure.This is just a guess. I think the PCM enables the 4WD to shift in and out while the vehicle is in motion. It controls the engaging of the Electric motor acuator. It works in conjunction with the 4WD relay in the engine compartment and the Electric motor acuator. In my case, the electric motor acuator which engages the front axle shorted out don't know why but will try and find out. It blew the PCM which when replaced gave a code for the EMA. The EMA is a 520.00 CAN dollar part, about 450.00 U.S. I hope that doesn't happen out of warranty. The PCM when replaced had to be recallibrated. I am just a backyard mechanic who knows cruisers far more than this truck but I am learning with the help of my G.M service manuals.
  • poorcruzerpoorcruzer Posts: 141
    My 2003 trackers rotors have two 8mm holes in the rotor hub face. The manual states if the rotor will not come off easily install two 8mm bolts in the holes and tighten evenly in order to force rotor off wheel hub. Good luck.
  • scotterscotter Posts: 14
    I had a blinking 4WD light also. Went to Chevy dealer, they said PCM as well. I didnt accept that as the PCM only recieves a signal that 4WD is engaged, the engagement is strictly mechanical. I traced the problem to the front differential air pump. Chevy wanted $436, Suzuki dealer was $185, same part as both have the number embossed in the pump housing. Anyway put on the new pump and problem solved and its been working great for almost a year.

    Parts from the Suzuki dealer are always much less then from Chevy. I broke a plastic interior trim piece a while ago. Chevy dealer was $ 108, Suzuki dealer $ 47.50, and again the same part number molded on the underside of the part.
  • poorcruzerpoorcruzer Posts: 141
    You are probably right, north american dealerships love ripping off their manufacturer for unneccessary work. I didn't care at the time as the truck was under warranty but trust me I am learning and will try to find out myself once out of warranty. No kidding about the cost difference. Tried to buy Suzuki oil filters from Chevrolet, they wanted $20.99 CAN each. Went to Suzuki bought twenty of them received a jobber rate at $10.19 each. Manufactors oil filters are known to be better quality than aftermarket. Luckily for us about the only Chevrolet specific pieces is the front end. As I store my truck in the winter to hold off the ravages of salt I wondered if due to lack of use the electric motor acuator failed, although my Suzuki dealer said no.

    As my truck can be shifted into 4WD high up to 100km/ph or 60mph doesn't that require some sort of computer assistance to engage the front axle smoothly?
  • I'm having the same issue and am glad I saw this topic. redbuggyboy, in post 1096 you mentioned that you bought a sensor and assembly from Autozone. Did the repair take care of the problem? I also have a 2.0 and am wondering if it was difficult to replace? thanks
  • scotterscotter Posts: 14
    As far as the acuator failing from lack of use, probably not. I do not use my 4WD drive much either, but honestly the design is poor. The air pump turns on when you shift into 4WD and engages the front diff. There is a very cheap little pressure switch that turns off the pump at a pre-determined pressure, very low, probably about 2 or 3 psi. When the pressure switch shuts the pump off, the 4WD light comes on to indicate the front diff is engaged. What happens is the 25 cent pressure switch leaks, air pressure goes down, 4WD light goes out, diff dis-engages, pump turns back on, builds pressure and so on. And this repeats and repeats.Why they dont use a vacuum system I dont know. Vacuum is free, and all you need is 1 normally open and 1 normally closed sloenoid valve and your done.

    As far as engaging 4WD over 60 mph. Everything starts at the transfer case, and the switch to put the actuator pump in motion, is in the transfer case. According to the service manager at the Suzuki dealer, at around 60 mph the syncro gears are spinning to fast for engagement of the secondary drive gears ( the front drive shaft ). He said if you tried you would feel and hear grinding and it would take a great deal of muscle power to force it in. I have never tried to shift to 4WD higher then about 30 anyway, so I dont know if he is right, but I assume so.

    I dont know about where you live, but the Suzuki dealer by me is very helpful in answering anything. The service manager has even taken me in the shop to talk to mechanics if he doesnt know the answer.
  • sharonvsharonv Posts: 2
    Thank you so much for the info. I'll pass this information on to my friend that is trying to change them for me. Did you get this information from a repair manual or the owner's manual. Thank you again. Sharon
  • poorcruzerpoorcruzer Posts: 141
    Thanks for the info on the activation of the 4WD system sorry if you misunderstood my comment about speed as I said up to not over 60 mph. I have no doubt and will have nightmares tonight thinking about shifting into 4WD at speeds over 60 mph. You are right vaccum is free.
  • poorcruzerpoorcruzer Posts: 141
    The info came from the G.M authorized service shop manual 11" wide 14" long 6" thick about a thousand pages of everything you want to know about your truck, although it does assume you are a mechanic already. The reading is very technical but complete.Imagine a bible specifically for your Trucks year and you get the pic. Although I find it doesn't explain the function of specific parts, like electric motor acuators.
  • poorcruzerpoorcruzer Posts: 141
    To the Americans in the southern U.S, Canadians hopes and prayers are with you. Good luck and god bless.
  • I also have A/C problems. I bought my 2000 tracker used at the end of August 2003. The next year when I turned on the A/C it didn't work. So, I took it back to the dealer where I had bought it to get it fixed seeing I got the used car warranty and even upgraded it the day I picked up my Tracker.

    Before they hooked it up to the computer they checked the fuses and sure enough, a fuse was blown. They changed the fuse and the A/C ran for about 5 minutes and the fuse blew again. Then they said it was probably electrical, but wouldn't be able to tell what was causing the fuse to blow unless they went through all the wiring and traced it to whatever, and wouldn't know if it was covered until they figured out what was causing this problem. Dilema, dilema, dilema.

    I decided I would let them have it for no more than an hour and a half. Well come to find out, the cooling fan motor was blowing the fuse and I would need it replaced. It wasn't covered under warranty and for a mere 6 hundred some dollars they could fix it. $300 just for the part. Needless to say, I wasn't pleased and did not get it fixed Now after having our warmest summer on record I'm really not happy! Get home from work feeling like a wet dishrag! The Tracker was only 3 years old and already a part this expensive went bad? Give me a break! I'm going to send Chevy an email to let them know how upset and unhappy this has all made me. Just thought I would share my experience. :mad:
  • The cooling fan motor is easy to replace, about 1/2 hr work. As for the cost of the part try suzuki and see what they can do for you.
  • I have a Tracker 4-door 4x4 bought new in 2000. Worked fine until I had two problems in the last two months. The first one was replacement of the left rear bearing - the symptom was a slight repetitive noise when running at low speeds, the frequency directly dependent on the speed. The second problem was the clutch. For a car driven only 80,000km, without abuse, this is a premature failure. Considering I still have about 20% left in the original brakes and tires are still in good condition for at least another year, I feel that the clutch should have lasted longer.

    At present I was considering if it is worth keeping the car or replacing it with another small SUV. My intentions were to keep the car for another 100,000km, but not if it will require expensive repairs every year.

    Am I owning a car with more problems than average? What do other owners of Trackers manufactured in 2000 experience?
  • arkainzeyearkainzeye pittsburgh paPosts: 473
    on my 1999 tracker the front left bearing went out. then about 6-9 months later the right rear bearing went. when the right rear went, axle grease was leaking out BAD. i was afraid to drive it home. i took it to a little garage it cost me about $300,. because in order to change the rear beaing they had to pull the inner axle Out! i have been nervous ever since. i have replaced 2 bearings. when are the other two going to go. i will say this. since then i stopped off roading and have not needed a bearing since then....
  • I made a mistake. The Amsoil synthetic oil I bought for my transfer case is compatible GL-2 to GL-5 (75W-90) it isn't just GL-5. The trackers transfer case takes GL-4. Sorry
  • It looks like Rock Auto has the fan/motor assembly listed as an A/C Condenser Fan for a Suzuki Vitara for about $84 plus S/H. Not inexpensive, but not $300, thank goodness. It looks like changing out this assembly is not too complicated as noted by another respondent. Our '99 2-door/2.0/5-speed has been totally reliable with only routine preventive maintenance. Best of luck with yours.
  • My problem is the front crank window. Tilts forward a little and binds when putting it up. I have tried lubricating the tracks and that helps for a day or two. Then it does it again. All I have to do to make it go up is to push back on the glass it moves about 1/4 in and rolls right up. What should I do.

    Also wikk useing a K & N filter improve my gass milage... :confuse:
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    Check out K&N Air Filters, bolt-on power? while waiting for responses in here.

    Steve, Host
  • Thanks for this info! I will look into it. I just found out tonight that my brother, who also owns a 2000 Tracker, had his fuse blow for his A/C. He hasn't tried to replace the fuse yet to see if it blows again though. Wish he would so I could see if he's having the same issue as me. I'll pass this info on to him if he does.

    As for any other problems, I haven't had any yet.
  • I have a 2000 tracker with exactly the same problem. Were you able to resolve this without spending $600.00 at your local repair shop ??
  • Poorcruzer,

    As a resident of Louisiana, your message is very much appreciated. Thankyou Canadian friend.

  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    Speaking of:

    Hurricane Katrina and Flood Relief (donation links)

    Steve, Host
  • I have 99 Tracker. A few months ago the passenger side rear window would not go down..a few days later the same thing happened to the drivers side rear window. The fuse is not blown. Is it possible that both motors died within a few days of each other?
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