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Chevy Tracker



  • brew7021brew7021 Posts: 1
    edited September 2015
    First post, pretty excited. Searched and no problem is like mine. FROZEN CLUTCH?! If you have some answers please email me at [Email removed] THANKS!

    I have a 1990 Suzuki Sidekick JX 4X4. 96K miles. I live in Fredonia, NY which is Western New York, just south of Buffalo. Keep that in mind.

    I first started having problems with the clutch months ago. I would push the pedal all the way to the floor and I was like I wasn't engaging the entire clutch. I would have to force the gears in to place carefully, especially first and reverse. I adjusted the clutch cable by moving the two nuts that hold the cable in place right in front of the clutch arm. That worked for a while.

    Right around December 20th, the temperature dropped below freezing and I jumped in my Sidekick to warm it up. I pushed down on the clutch and it was insanely hard to push down, almost like the clutch was frozen. At this point, I had no idea how the clutch worked so I pushed as hard as I could and got the pedal down and the car started. I came back 10 minutes later and had absolutely no tension on the pedal. I found where the cable came through the firewall and it wouldn't stay hooked on the top of the pedal. I clearly stretched the cable out. Me and my friend changed the cable the next day (neither of us are experienced mechanics), it seemed easy enough. We still found that there wasn't enough tension on the pedal so we adjusted everything we could. The two nuts in front of the arm, the nut behind the arm and in desperation we loosened up the clutch armed and moved it counter-clockwise a couple degrees just to get that little extra bit of tension. I'm not sure what we did wrong, but I think that may have cause me to burn out my clutch.

    On the 23rd, I went to Rochester to see my parent's for the Holiday. We brought the truck to GoodYear and simply asked them to tell me what was wrong with the clutch, if anything. They told me that the clutch was warn out and it needed to be changed. $500 dollars later, the clutch felt better and I assumed all was fixed. (Before you guys rip me apart for bringing it to a GoodYear, my father's friend is the store manager and they were desperate for business.)

    Back in Fredonia on January 4th, it was again below freezing. I went out to start my truck and I had the same problem as before. It felt as if the clutch was frozen and would not move with the cable. I once again, like an idiot, pushed the pedal in and assume that I again stretched the cable. I had just a little more tension on the pedal than I did the first time so I tried driving it. I was practically driving with no clutch at all. I got stuck at a red light as I wasn't able to get it in to first. Eventually, I crammed it in to gear and I brought the truck to Ellman's garage in Dunkirk, NY. I asked him about the classic firewall problem and wanted to know if it needed to be addressed. He said it was flexing a little bit but that wasn't causing my big problem. He then continued to say that his garage didn't work on transmissions. He directed me to Bobek's Trans down the street. He said he spent hours looking at it, trying to figure out what was wrong with it. He even set me up with a metal reinforcement on the firewall simply to see if it would help. He concluded that it must be the new clutch that's giving me the problem seeing as, according to him, everything else that was visible looked in order. He charged me $40 for that information.

    After hours on the phone with GoodYear, we took advantage of the nationwide warranty and had the truck towed to the GoodYear in Hamburg, NY (about 40 miles away) for the price of.. on the house. They pulled the truck in, took a quick look at it and decided that it was INDEED the firewall flexing that was causing my problem and still does even though Bobek stuck a reinforcement on there. I asked them if that was the case, then how did they not notice that when they were putting the clutch in, and so on. They kept saying that they did what they said they were going to do and they're done with the car. So basically GoodYear does not back up their "Nationwide Warranty" at all, which I guess really isn't a surprise. The problem I have is I originally asked them what was wrong with my clutch and who knows if they misdiagnosed it. They never told me if the old clutch they took out was even warn completely or not.

    The guys at GoodYear claim that I can drive the car 40 miles from Hamburg to Fredonia, but I am not confident at all. I feel I might burn out the clutch, or worse drop the transmission. At this point, I've ordered another new cable. My plan is to go to the GoodYear parking lot, tell everyone walking in that they'll scam them out of their hard earned money and get my truck running successfully with in 20 minutes. I'm hoping that the cable is stretched and thats whats causing the pedal to have no tension and therefore causing the clutch to not engage all the way. What do you guys think? I cannot rely on the mechanics at GoodYear to help me, nor does it seem like any mechanic shop wants to take on a 21 year old japanese truck with problems.

    Please help.

    Oh and if the clutch IS freezing and causing me to stretch out the cable over and over again is it possible to lubricate it to the point where it wont happen? Is that even possible?

    I also found the post saying the engine may try to ground out through the clutch if the main ground strap is missing or broken. I haven't been able to check that since the truck is 40 minutes away, but is that possibly my problem?

    I'll be heading up with a friend of mine who is a novice mechanic on Friday night, hoping that he can help me. Any information you guys have will help extremely. I've downloaded the archives and plan to print them out for my friend tomorrow. I have never really worked on cars but I'm anxious to start doing my own repairs on my ZUKI! :mad:
  • esrickesrick Posts: 1
    The power button causes each gear to be held longer when you give it the gas. It will give it more pulling power before it shifts. I usually use it when in four wheel drive low for the most consistent power and shifting. It's good if you are towing also because it puts less stress on the transmission. Also, if the button is on and you put it in 2, it will start out in 2 and stay there no matter what. Good for starting on slippery surfaces.
  • I have a '99 Tracker with the 2.0. I was looking in the Haynes manual and it said I needed to drop the pan to change the filter AND the fluid. I was checking things out under there today and noticed there is a drain plug. That is great news but what I was wondering is how to drop the pan to change the filter. It looks to me like there is NO clearance between the bottom of the pan and the frame. It appears to me like a LOT of stuff is in the way of the pan. I'll be content with just changing the fluid (it is pretty dark) but it seems odd to me that I would have to loosen the motor mounts (and lots of other stuff), lift the engine just to drop the pan to change the filter. Please tell me I'm wrong. Otherwise its just gonna be 2 quarts of Dex 4 and a quart of Lucas and I'll call it a day.
  • george114george114 Posts: 10
    Yes, the pan can be removed without undoing anything else. First drain the oil. Second remove all the pan screws that hold the pan in place. Then carefully remove the pan out from the transmission. It is a little tricky but it does come off. Last remove the filter. Reverse the process to put everything back together. Good luck.
  • madwikemadwike Posts: 1
    Hello, can anyone help me? I recently bought a 2002 Chevy Tracker LT 4 wheel drive with the original steel wheels but no center caps. I know what you all are going to say ebay, but they don't have them I have been all over the internet looking but cannot find any. I would not mind aftermarket center caps but they say they will not work with the original steel wheels. Please can anyone help me I am about to go out of my mind. Thanks in advance
  • iwoniwon Posts: 1
    Sounds like lifters might be rattleing. Add 1 quart of LUCAS oil stabilizer when you change the oil next time. {found cheapest at Rural king farm stores}. If this stops or quits it down, have a mechanic remove valve cover to inspect cam/lifters. Oil passages may be clogged. Also GM has been selling low grade cams for yrs in all thier cars so cam may need replaced?
  • zoeysmomzoeysmom Posts: 1
    Hi, I have a 2002 tracker..120,000 miles. In for leaked oil slowly and my mechanic said he would have to lift the timing chain cover to find the problem as that's where it is coming from. A friend said it sounds like it probably will be something major and costly. So far, I need tires and the evaporator vent solenoid to pass inspection. approx. $800 for 4 tires and solenoid. Once past inspection, the tailpipe needs replacement as it is starting to sway...(164.00)...after that, this oil leak thing has to be addressed.....

    So, two questions, how serious could this be, and also, would you say its probably time to replace the truck....I'm thinking it is...opinions anyone?
  • jak14jak14 Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Tracker 4 WD sedan with 2.0 motor. It has an intermittent issue especially when cold where it seems to bog down, will not accelerate when in gear. If I put it in neutral it will rev as normal then back in gear it will bog down, not accelerate. Problem goes away after a few seconds. While driving it does hesitate some but will accelerate when pushed. Also there is a bit of a fluttering engine noise when I floor it in gear. What could it be?
  • On a 2000 Tracker 4WD, 5 spd. transmission. what is transmission R&R time ? Have bad clutch throwout arm to replace.
    Thanks in advance.
  • kibble3kibble3 Posts: 1
  • awol65awol65 Posts: 1
    Any one have a wiring diagram for the AC I have a short somewhere
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Try You have to register, but it's pretty painless and it's free (so far at least!).
  • twm1010twm1010 Posts: 1
    Have a 2003 tracker, and it wont start. I read most of the old post, but the tracker has been setting for a day. Went to leave and it would not start. And info would be helpful, because I am between jobs. Thank you.
  • bex1bex1 Posts: 6
    What exactly does 'won't start' mean? Does it crank? Or do nothing? If it's cranking, can you get it started with test fuel sprayed into the intake? If you can, then chances are your problem is on the fuel side of ignition. You may also want to pull your plugs and see if they are wet, indicating that the car is flooding.....
  • Just came upon your post while having the same problem myself. I tried WD40, which did fix the problem for awhile, but now still doesn't always work.

    Possible solution:
    Insert the key into the tailgate lock hole. Turn it into the unlock position as far to the left as it will go. With the other hand (still holding the key in unlock), hold up the release button (above the license plate). While holding both in said positions, close the door all the way and open it. Repeat a few times without ever letting go of either. Close the door all the way and then let go of the latch and key.

    That's what I did and somehow it worked. Probably a temporary solution. I'm sure there's some worn out part behind it, but figured I'd share it.
  • Same thing here. I lubed the heck out of it and 6 months later it doesn't work. I've thought about replacing the guts, which are over the license plate assembly, but I think the same would happen with another one. Obviously the problem is not unique. I will try your fix just so I can get the door open. The thing needs to be removed, taken apart and cleaned and lubed. I don't think it's a broken part, I think it's just dirty. One thing I noticed is the handle stays in the up position aftger releasing it. I have to manually pull it back down with my fingers. If I go to the driver's door and unlock the tailgate using the auto lock and then try to open the back, sometimes it will work. Sometimes I have to do that 20 times but eventually it will open.. :/
  • I just bought an '01 Tracker, after waiting for a long time to get one. It's a 5 speed, 4x4 and the tranny needs some work. I was told the clutch at first, and it seemed like a clutch issue, so a new clutch kit went in. Nope... further troubles led us to taking the tranny apart. I need a bearing kit, which isn't too much grief. The big problem is, I need a new Input Shaft.... Apparently ALL parts have been discontinued by GM. So, I've called around and called around and had lots of people give me their condolences, etc., but I still need that shaft. Any ideas?
  • ang33iefang33ief Posts: 57
    Thinking of buying a 2006 grand vit. With 124,000 on it. Will it go a lot more miles, a one owner car. Thanks. Harry
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 61,713
    That depends on what maintenance it has received in the past. If you aren't a gearhead yourself, run the car through a pre-purchase inspection. What's the price on it? $3K-$4K something like that?

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  • ang33iefang33ief Posts: 57
    It's my sister in laws car, thinking of giving it to daughter in law for $500. She has little money and now drives a Mazda m. 5 with 266,000, I do not want to have her take a car that will deplete her small savings.
  • ang33iefang33ief Posts: 57
    Also, I see on most of the posts that the suz gv was made in Canada, my sister in law says hers was made in Japan? 2006
  • I asked this question in a different forum but i feel itll get more success here. 2dr soft top manual trans. I believe it is the Suzuki crossover it has the Suzuki parts on it. Transmission stick shift pops up and out of gearing pain in the rear end to put back in place. Anyone have this problem can i fix it? T.I.A
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