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Honda Passport Electrical Problems
bobseedlock
Member Posts: 3
in Isuzu
My '97 Passport appears to have some weird electrical problem. At random times, the battery indicator will start to move in sync with the turn signal or show a drop with any other pull on the battery (lights, radio, etc.). More than once, I've been idling in the driveway with nothing on and when I pull forward on the turn signal as if to initiate the bright lights, the engine dies. The car has no problem starting. The alternator has been replaced once. Does anyone have any suggestions or starting points?
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So we replaced this thinking it was the problem. Still had issues, so we replaced the spark plugs, seemed alittle better but a few days later it would just click when I turned it over, after a few tries it would start. Back to the shop, needed new starter. Thought it was fixed, wrong, it turns right over but again sometimes it will take afew tried sometimes it will start right up. I find that if it does start right up I need to gas it right away or it will shut down. Had it hooked up to something that blows out all the crap gunking up. Still having the same issues. The guy told me that the computer is showing nothing. We are not sure what to do next. Any suggestions? I'm ready to give up!
Sometimes radio goes on and off intermittently, rear defrost don't work.
(Today installed new battery, then tonight it went from 13.8 volts charging to 10 volts charging + the battery light and brake light came on, the AC/ Heater fan blower motor stopped working all at the same time.)
What do you think?
thanks!
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
If this doesn't help go to auto zone and they will check your alternator for free.
\You may notice the radio cutting off intermittently and many other strange things happening to your Honda passport or Isuzu Rodeo. I hope this helps.
Any insight is greatly appreciated, thanks NUR
Who knows what this could be?
:lemon:
sounds like hondas & rodeos had issues with their grounds, and maybe some other connections. though i'm a mechanic, i hate chasing electrical problems up and around body panels or drivetrain. nightmare.
my car, which i haven't seen one like it here, loses a ground belonging to the THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR(wants to die and lope at anything less than 1000rpm), the IDLE AIR CONTROL SOLENOID(before i blocked it off, it would idle way too high,...1500-2500), and occasionally the TRANSMISSION ACCUMULATOR (thumps into 2nd gear).
my problems are specific to outside temperature. around 20-40 degrees F, as soon as the car warms up and takes sensor readings, it all goes screwy.
if i continue to drive awhile, it stops if ambient temperature is near the 40 deg range or higher. if it's colder, the problem goes on and on, even after sitting off for a while. also, however it runs when i shut it off, that's how it runs the next time i start it.
anyone found the faulty wire that does this??? crikey.
it just sounds like the electrical system in general needs to be addressed. YOU SHOULD ALL KNOW THAT 12 VOLTS (or sometimes as little as 1/2 a volt) ISN'T MUCH POWER TO OVERCOME A BAD CONNECTION.
i'll list what i know (and what i''m going to fix):
1) the grounds on both sides of the motor that have a sorry little clip onto the engine or fender. these just tie the body to the motor. there's either 2 or 4.
2) the 3 relays, i think they're in the driver's kick panel. they're notorious for corroding. i'm going to clean them all up and jam vaseline (anti-oxidant) into the connections.
3) sounds like some of you need to look at other connections, like the fuel pump's which is accessed after removing a rear tire? or replacing the alternator?
SO, ANYONE KNOW OF ANY OTHER NAUGHTY ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS?
i'm going in, ...kevin
IT WAS THE GROUNDS. i replaced/fixed all the grounds in the engine compartment,...and....presto-fixo!
(2) grounds coming off either side of the engine, from valve cover to fender.
(1)ground from a fuse block to the fender on driver's side.
(2) going from battery to alternator and down to the passenger motor mount.
(2) connections going to the same ground on top of the intake manifold; front bolt; driver's side; out of a harness.
I REPLACED ALL OF THE SORRY CLIP STYLE CONNECTIONS. LOOP TERMINAL--WIRE--LOOP TERMINAL. NOTHING IN BETWEEN. I ALSO USED STAR WASHERS TO HELP KEEP GOOD CONTACT. AND VASELINE TO HELP SLOW CORROSION.
i just used a couple of electrical connection kits i have for general use on cars. i had to replace a couple of sections of wire that were'nt long enough after cutting the bad connections off (make sure you use the same gauge or bigger).
i think that's all. all of the WIERD STUFF went away. i still have a malfunctioning IAC(idle air control), but apparently that is a separate problem.
if i had to go under the chassis to fix wires, i'd probably solder the wires together. i'd do butt joints; press the clean exposed wires into each other like interlocking fingers, then solder. no stupid press in connections, cut them out. then tape, or use shrink tubing (don't forget to slide the shrink tube on BEFORE you solder!)
good luck gentlemen, kevin
Oh, I have a '94 Honda Passport. Thanks.
From what I have read on this thread, should I be looking at a voltage regulator or a bad ground wire? Any other ideas?
THANKS!
Michael
The battery light has been blinking on and off. This evening my honda died on me right in the middle of the road.I had to call someone to come and jump me off. I had only drove it just a little piece and it died again. I finally made it home but just barely before it died again. I plugged my Actron code reader in and the code was P0153. Does anyone know what this code is? And could anyone tell me what I need to do to fix this problem?
Thanks
Thanks ever so much for this answer. You have saved my Isuzu Rodeo. When the taillights stopped working, along with the dash lights, I took it to the Dealer. They informed me that the only thing it could be, was theHeadlight Switch on the left side of the steering wheel. Est. Cost to fix, $1,200.
Since your post, I have ordered another relay for $34.00 and have installed it. Everything works fine now. Never knew that there were relays under that panel.
Thanks again.
Grandpagator
when the alternator is disconnected, the short dissapears, but i do realize that this could possibly be because the alternator being disconnected causes the circuit to close to the rest of the componets. i had the alternator checked at autozone, and it tested good. tested at orielys, failed. so i bought a brand new alternator, hooked it up, and i still have the same problem. ive taken off all the covering on the wire going from the alternator all the way to the harness behind the main fuse box, and there arent any shorts or cuts in the wires, we've had the starter checked at autozone, it tested good, the wires that connect to the starter dont seem to be damaged, and ive also taken off every fuse in the main fuse box, then tried bypassing the main 100 amp with a 4 gauge wire while the alternator was connected, but there was still a short!! somebody please help me