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Suzuki Grand Vitara (2005 and earlier)



  • brisraybrisray Posts: 8
    Hopefully you don't have to change the chains, just the tensioners and guides. I never could find anywhere local that could get these parts for me or somewhere cheaper on the web. In the end I had to go to a Suzuki main dealer and order them. shows the part numbers you need and what I paid for them. You'll also need a new set of seals and a tube of engine sealant.

    I don't know if it was just mine but all the bolts, and there are a lot of them, on the engine are very tight. I never could get a manual for this engine which meant that without the factory torques we had to guess how tight to do them all back up.

    The crank bolt was absolute hell to get off. Two of us with a 3ft extension couldn't undo it and we used a power tool to do it.

    You'll have to search for your local Suzuki dealer, Google, telephone book whatever.

    I don't know if they were having an off-day or something but the particular dealer I used did tell me that crank bolt was reverse threaded when it wasn't and had to ask me if the new thermostat came with a new seal or if I needed a seperate one. Questions I thought a dealer should know.

  • Hi.

    A friend of mine has this car, and she has an annoying squeak whilst running. It's not the serpentine belt, because it doesn't get louder when I swing the wheel. I think it's either the fan drive belt, or the viscous coupling on the fan itself. Is there any way I can diagnose it? And if so, how can I get the belt and/or fan out? Is it a radiator-out job? (There's no A/C to worry about.)


  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Suzuki to Join Hybrid Parade With SUV (Inside Line)

    Any help for Mark above?

    Steve, Host
  • Hello,

    I have a 2001 Grand Vitara and when I am sitting in traffic with the transmission in Drive, a rattling and clinking starts to sound underneath the hood. As soon as I start going, it goes away. It doesn't do it if I put it in Reverse or Park, just the Drive gears. Also, when I put the A/C on, the rattling and clinking will go away. I thought it was something associated with the transmission until I noticed it going away when I put the A/C on. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks.
  • To bonehead1 about friend's car squeak,

    Is your friend's car actually making a squealing noise intermittently? My 2000 Grand Vitara started doing that in March 2005. After 2 months it started getting worse. I finally figured out the noise was happening when something stopped spinning off the serpentine belt. Goodyear thought it was the serpentine, changed it and the noise got worse. It was the air compressor trying to freeze up. Whenever it stopped spinning, the belt would squeal like crazy. I was quoted $1240 at Goodyear and generously $800 by the son of a friend who works at Amoco. Needless to say, I havent had air since March and it is November 2 (Florida is dang hot in the summer). Still have heat at least!!!

    I looked up this site because I wanted to see what kinds of problems I was going to run into as the car is 5 years old. Getting worried about all the posts on rear seals and timing chain issues. I bought it used in 2002 so don't know if any of this stuff was done to it and it is at about 80,000 miles now. Except for the a/c going out and recent tire purchases (due to multiple nails/screws etc), I have never done anything to it but oil changes and preventative maintenance (flushes, etc). I have to do some investigation as I can't afford all these timing and seal repairs, etc, see what Suzuki might pay for.

    I do have that squeak that sounds like it comes from the dashboard but don't know anyone who could fix the hood latch that everyone says is causing it.

    I love the car. It has been the most reliable car I have ever had so far. Unlike other reviews I have read, it kicks butt on acceleration. It is small and there are visibility issues under certain angles (a whole car or person can be out of site when trying to view through the side windows or rear corner windows due to the thick plastic molding in betwen windows and rear window/door). It is light and taller than a car, so the wind whips it around the road pretty bad.

    You DEFINITELY DO NOT want to stop too fast on wet roads. The brakes lock and you just slide and the rear starts to fishtail. I prefer just to risk running the red light a little bit than to slide right through it. On a day when the road wasn't wet, someone pulled out in front of me into a median, but I didn't slow down. They ended up leaving the back of their van sticking out into my lane and I couldn't switch over. I slammed the brakes and they locked and the car started careening toward the left, right into the van. Nothing I could do but get out and scream at the idiot for doing it. Definitely needs an ABS.

    At this point in time, still believe I would buy another one, but would get the XL7. It really isn't much larger but like the option of 3rd row seating!!!!
  • I have worked on quite a few cars in my time, but I cant even find the plugs on my 1999 Grand Vitara (6 cyl). Can anyone point me in the right direction, tell me where they're located, or should i just take it in.? I'd rather do it myself as i do on all my other vehicles but i just cant find
    Thanks in advance!!!
  • My new 2005 Grand Vitara with 7500 miles intermittently has a problem starting. When it does happen it's after I've driven a short distance (2 mi.) stop for an hour or so, then when I try to start her up, she balks. Last time it happened I tried to start (no foot on gas, naturally) 5 or 6 times, and nothing. Then I floored the gas pedal and she started, but not cleanly. She sputtered and bucked, sounded like it was only hitting on one or two cylinders. Then it started running fine. I've dumped fuel line cleaner in the gas and that hasn't done anything to change the issue. I had it to the dealer where I bought it, and they only said it started fine for them. Yes, no kidding! It only happens intermittently, and after a short drive then restart attempt. I have to drive 35 miles to the dealer so naturally it doesn't happen. I asked if they checked the error codes in the computer and they said they did, but there were no error codes. They said to bring it in when it's not starting... Sheesh!

    Anyone have an idea of what might me causing this problem. BTW, I did check my gas cap to make sure it is tight. Same goes for the oil dip stick- just to rule out a vacuum issue.
  • Stand facing car, under cross brace from suspension turretts is a black cover ( one on either side of main engine with 3 plugs in each). It is fixed by 2 screws. Remove these and you will see three coil/tops. held by 8mm black bolts. Release this and extract plug cover. You will need to release brace to get to at least two of the plugs. A bit of a job compared to most cars.
  • I just bought 06' GV for few days, can anyone tell me how to turn off ESP function. The manual said press and hold the ESP off button, but it doesn't work. Can anyone help? :confuse:
  • xostnotxostnot Posts: 232
    I've heard you have to press the button for 8 seconds, which will seem like an eternity. I don't know if you have to be stopped for it to take effect. I've also heard that beyond a certain speed, like 30kph?, it turns on by itself again. It seems they really want you to have it turned on.
  • I want to replace my 1999 GV engine w/ a 2004 engine which has 10 extra hp. Is their any reason the 2004 won't swap?
  • doc11doc11 Posts: 2
    Hi mick9772

    The Squeeking noise is generated by friction between the small rubber bumpers and the bonnet paint work. To prove it to yourself just clean both slap on a bit of grease and I reckon you will be sqeek free. Rubbers are all over the car between doors,tail gate and under the bonnet.If you clean them regularly you will stop the noise.It happened to me the first time after driving on dirt roads.The height of the rubbers under the bonnet are adjustable just screw them one way or the other and you'll see what I mean,you might help the problem by adjusting them.

    Hope this helps.
  • hi
    Mine is a 01 90km and did just that twice!
    I know cars fairly well and I can tell u that this is something in the fuel supply.
    I would appreciate much in case u find out what that is to have it posted and I will do likewise in case I find the end of this symptom.
    thanx n happy new year
  • Pardon my ignorance but I just bought what I think is a 02 XR7 [ says it on wheel cover] but the dealer called it a grand vitara on papers- any hints ?
    I like the machine - has 81k and nice to get a 4wd again - used to have older jeeps and my other is a 91 Astro awd and my joy is a 74T500 Titan Suzie motorcycle
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Are you sure it doesn't say XL7 on the wheel cover?

    Steve, Host
  • doc11doc11 Posts: 2
    Hi Everyone,
    I have just successfully stopped the dreaded GV Timing Chain Rattle on my 2000 Grand Vitara and would like to thank Ray (bisray) for his post as it made my job a little easier. As I tried to find a manual with no luck (probably like everyone else out there) the tip about the Impossible to remove Harmonic Balancer Bolt was handy as I could see how you would think you might be turning it the wrong way. (Thanks Mate)
    I thought I would add my experience to the Frey in case it helps some other adventurer as they decide to fix the problem themselves.
    For a start forget about trying to source a manual if you have enough mechanical skills to attempt this job you won't need it anyway. I’ll just add a few things that I discovered or thought of whilst doing the job.
    TIP1. I could not undo the Harmonic Balancer bolt with even 380ft/lbs on the impact wrench. (Here is what I did.)
    19mm socket on bent extension bar with 2ft extension pipe,
    hand brake on in Reverse Gear. Get a 10inch "G" clamp and a small piece of 2"x1/2" hardwood, Get a friend to turn the socket as far as he can then lock the clamp on to the harmonic balancer using the hardwood to protect the outside of the balancer from damage by the clamp. Allow the clamp handle to ease back onto the bottom chassis cross brace so you can get a second bite with the socket and that should be enough to crack it. (Good luck it took ages to figure this out) but it works.
    TIP2. Loosen Both Rocker Cover Bolts 2 at the front and 1 at the back (you can't get at the other back one) and gently slide the tip of a stumpy screwdriver between the rocker cover gasket and the head, you only have to flex the cover about 1mm or 1/10th of an inch to allow easy removal and much easier replacement of the timing case. This stops you causing damage to the rocker cover gaskets during reassembly.
    TIP3. I use aircraft gasket sealing cement on all Aluminium machined joints (Black thick Liquid) and have never had an oil leak after an engine assembly. Smear it on both sides to be joined with a bit extra where the head and block join and valley and block join also on the inner timing case stud towers. (Don’t forget the front of the sump cover) and by the way don't overlook undoing the 4 front sump bolts before trying to remove the timing cover.
    TIP4. Tie up your Timing Chains before you remove any Tensioner or guide bolts if they slip around the gears you're in for trouble unless you have a manual to show you the timing marks. I always get a paint pen and mark the chain at several points on the crank and the camshaft sprockets so if the worst happens and something slips you will be OK.Change the tensioners and guides that are worn 1 at a timothy while you have it apart change the lot labour is the expensive part anyway.
    TIP5. I had to change 3 guides and the LHS tensioner, the 3 guides were showing wear and it is generally recommended to change the LHS tensioner I don't know why Unless the new part has been modified (I couldn’t see any difference) I think maybe the oil relief hole in the tensioner needs to be bigger this might make it less jerky as the chain spins around (only a thought).
    LAST TIP I noticed that the small chain that drives the oil pump from the crankshaft was very sloppy and ticked when I moved it around, it has a manually adjustable tensioner which I adjusted (I'm wondering if anyone else has noticed this) and I'm wondering if this was most of the noise.
    Oh yeah, the Dealer wanted to charge me $2800.00 to do the job. Parts were approx $200.00, what's going on in this world. I live in Australia.
    In response to some other posts I have read THE DEALER won't have to remove your engine and it is very unlikely that he would have to replace your Timing Chains.
    Shame on Suzuki for not fixing this problem with a Recall and I sure hope they have addressed the problem with the 2.7 litre engine as I was planning on an upgrade in a year or two but I will be finding out first. The main bragging rights for Timing Chain Engines is that you don't have to change a timing BELT every 70,000 KM. Let me tell you it is a snack to change a timing belt compared to Chains which are supposed to last for ages sometimes forever.
    Sorry this is a bit long winded but I hope it helps someone in need.

  • Right Steve XL 7
    extended length i think so it is the grand vitara
    has rust bubbles here and there on underside- tried spraying with wd40 just to check it as undercoating would just cover problem
    wonder if there is an anode or some such to stop any progression
    we like the machine!
  • Hi - thanks for all the help here
    heres my contribution:
    phoney car alarm I am making
    under 5 bucks!
    get a
    in line 12v fuse
    12v to 3v resister
    flashing red led at electronics store [ long leg is 12v[ cv] side
    from hot 12v to resister to led to switch to ground
    silicon or? little led in small dash area where can be seen
    switch on w in dubious territory
    yrs KJ :shades:
  • lrc2lrc2 Posts: 1
    I was just told that the I need a crankshaft main bearing seal. I have 85K miles on my car. Does anyone know if there was a recall on this.
  • Today I went to my garage to drive the kids to school got in the SUV andtried to start the car. First it seemed to start for a second then it shutdown,I tried to start it again then the starter was making a spinning noise so I turned it off and waited. Then I moved the shift from park to drive and back. I tried to start the SUV and the engine was cranking and almost wants to start. Does anyone have any ideas what is wrong before I call the tow truck?
    Please help. Thanks!
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Take a look at the posts in the "No Start" Problems discussion too.

    Steve, Host
  • I'm working on the some thing. I just used a reach to get the Balancer Bolt off and some oil spry called knock r loos.
    My oil pump chain was sloppy also. No that's not the noise

    Whan I took off my chain cover there was no Tensioner or guides left there all in little peases inside the motor!
    I mite have some brockn' velves two. but I'm not that far yet I'm waiting on the parts I orderd ($34 for 2 guides)

    I took some photos that I wish I can insert but I can't.
    I can e-mail them to you. my E-mail Is
  • chelle39chelle39 Posts: 1
    My 99 Vitara 2DR has the same leak at 95k miles. In fact, I returned it to my mechanic yesterday because it started leaking 20 mins. after I paid them $500 for replacing the seal. There is no recall for the rear main seal, but there is a technical service bulletin (TSB) for replacing it. I found out the hard way because I didn't take it to the dealership in the first place. Found out that a new seal may leak if the Suzuki recommended tools, 09911-97811 & 09911-97710, are not used. Go to for more info. Good luck!
  • csearscsears Posts: 2
    do you know if the rocker can be remove without lifting the intake on 2001 2.5 v6
  • I live in Bermuda and most of the cars are imported from Europe. I purchased a 2000 Suzuki Escudo which I have been advised is the same or similar to a 2000 Grand Vitara. I want to customize my car and it is very difficult to find kits :( , etc here on the island. Can anyone direct me to a someone who can help me locate the accessories I that I want or someone who knows about the difference between an Escudo and the Grand Vitara :confuse: . They both look the same except the Escudo has the parking mirror on the hood . Thanks,
  • kkrukkru Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Suzuki Grand Vitara that is only running on four cylinders. The number 3 & 6 are not running. Took it to a local shop and they indicated that there is very little compression on the 3 & 6 cylinder. They suggested having the entire engine rebuilt or replaced. The dealership is asking for 5K to replace the engine. Anyone have similar problems or have suggestions on how to fix?
  • kismitkismit Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 Tracker 4 dr, 4 wd. The service engine light came on soon after the speedometer/cruise quit working. The code came up P0500. The dealership gave me a part #30020772 for a vehicle speed sensor. However, no one I contact for this part (as it is $266 at the dealership) can find or cross reference this number. They say it must be a shelf number or something. Can anyone out there help?
  • microzukmicrozuk Posts: 1
    My 1996 Suzuki Escudo's window winder suddenly stopped operating, along with the driver's door lock function. Is there any simple way to fix this or do I need to buy a new door unit?
  • Have second opinion, the evap. cores are known for failing. i know mine just went out. $749.99 my cost from the dealer. i refuse to pay that for it. if your a/c is doa you need to know where the freon is leaking from and replace that componet. also be sure to flush lines out real good.
    pipe leaking may be in exhaust manifold, mine is too, its expensive to repair even if you own your own shop. mine is still leaking not too bad but its not a priority for me now. only my a/c is so in the meantime i will keep charging my system on a daily basis so i can get home and to work without sweating to death. good luck to you !!!
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