Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair



  • midas72midas72 Posts: 18
    With the $5k rebate for 2005's and more safety features (advance trac and stability control) I am unsure of which model year to buy. Normally I would shy away from paying for the depreciation of a new vehicle but it appears the '03 lacks a couple key safety features. Maybe I hold out until the 2006's start to arrive for more discounts from dealer??

  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    Please share your thoughts. Even if they don't pan out they may stimulate new ideas.

    tidester, host
  • bldaz2005bldaz2005 Posts: 9
    Just my take--- But I think you will find that Ford will not give those high rebates for the upcoming model year. There will be a new V8 Explorer coming for 06, it will be using the Mustang V8, They will want to get inventory down for the upcoming model so i think they will keep the incentives high for 05's for at least the next month and a half until they whittle down inventory.
  • bldaz2005bldaz2005 Posts: 9
    Did you have an opinion on my repair?
  • Excuse me, but did you not understand my message?
    I am a mechanic and an Air Condition Tech, and I know EXACTLY what I am talking about.
    I wrote: "The problem is NOT whether it is an Explorer or Expedition. It sounds like the clutch or the compressor is locking up, if it is burning the belt. The repairman needs to thoroughly flush and clean ALL of the inside of the A/C system, replace the Compressor, replace the Orifice Tube, replace the Accumulator, evacuate the system and charge the system with the correct amount and type of oil and refrigerant, then you won't have any more problems.
    The compressor can lock up because it gets damaged interally by trash in the system, it could be caused by a low oil charge, or faulty compressor or faulty accumlator.
    Find out what he did, and what he did not do. Take this list with you.
    1. Compressor and belt
    2. Orifice tube
    3. Accumulator
    4. Possibly hoses if they are contaminated
    5. Possibly the Cooling system or Fan system if the condenser is running hot
    6. Leak test and Evacuate the system
    7. Correct Oil Charge in the system
    8. Correct Refrigerant Charge in the System.
    E.D. "

    There is NO change about the refrigerant and the oil. The Refrigerant and the OIL have ALWAYS been separate components, even with the old r-12 refrigerants, even in your house A/C, even in your refrigerator. The refrigerant and the oil are both charged into the system, they circulate together though the system. The oil depends on the refrigerent to "blow" and circulate it through the system. When there is a leak in the system, some oil will leak out with the refrigerant. If the system is very low on refrigerant, the oil will not circulate, and most of the oil will be pumped out of the compressor and the oil will just lay in the low parts of the system, and the compressor will burn up due to lack of lubrication. If the system is evacuated, the refrigerant will be sucked out and whatever oil is left in the system will remain in the system as puddles at the low points. That is one reason for having the low pressure cycling switch on your system, usually on the accumulator. The low pressure switch cuts off the compressor if the pressure gets too low, usually around 20 to 22 PSI. Most factory A/C's use a 24 to 36 oz charge of 134a refrigerant and a 5 to 9 oz charge of PAG refrigerant oil. This will vary from vehicle to vehicle. Some conversion kits and A/C shops use an ESTER type refigerant oil, which is not as prone to absorb moisture.
    Getting back to your problem, Your compressor is being destroyed by the crap from the old compressor. As I said, It MUST be flushed ABSOLUTELY CLEAN! I mean REALLY CLEAN Throughout! All of the crap from the compressor dumps into the CONDENSOR and may remain stuck in there. If they don't flush and clean the condenser perfectly, it will continue to release crap into the system and destroy the new compressor, which will again contaminate the system. Condensers are best REPLACED after the "BLACK DEATH" episode of the compressor failure. When repairing these types of A/C problems on Fords, it is best to replace everything except for the Evaporator. This is commonly called a "Fire Wall Forward Replacement". I have done several of these. The evaporator is easilest and safest to flush. Everthing else should be replaced with new. This work always cost over $1000, but if you want to fix it right. and want a problem free A/C for years to come, then you must Do the Job Right! Do you know specifially what parts they replaced? Be sure you know what he did, I suspect they did not put in a new condensor.
    Believe me, A/C work is actually easy, You simply must do it Right, then you have no problems and no come backs.
    About the Pancake Filter that they mentioned to you, those are very good, they are called a High Side In-Filter. He should have left it on the sytem as a permanent part. If you get a Firewall Forward replacement, at the same time, get one installed in the high pressure line between the compressor and the condenser. It will catch anything that comes out of the compressor BEFORE it gets into the condenser, and you system will remain clean. Sometimes they put the Pancake Filter in the line after the condenser, between the condenser and the orifice tube. The is helpful to keep the O-Tube from clogging up, but it still allows the condenser to eventually get clogged up. It is always best to put the Pancake Filter BEFORE the condenser. I did that on my Explorer, and never had any more problems. I used a Factory Air #34510 IN-LINE FILTER. They come in different sizes and different types of connections on the ends, so you have to get the one specifialy for your vehicle. Remember, the trash in the system is created in the compressor, created by wear in the compressor, and circulates with the refrigerant from the compressor, to the condensor, then to the screen on the O-Tube, where most of it gets trapped. The refrigerant oil turns very black, and when the O-Tube is pulled out, the O-Tube inlet screen is covered and clogged with this horrible black gunk. I have many many pictures to prove it. I can send you pictures of clogged up O-Tubes and pictures of In-line Filters. Try looking them up in the Internet.
    Any Questions? I've tried to help as much as I can, the rest is up to you. Go back and reread my posts, print them out and take them to your mechanic.
    Good Luck.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    bldaz is correct - for about the first 6 months, Ford won't discount or incent much on the new model - after that, depending on how it's selling, they may begin to. You may want to go ahead and get your 03 now - and then in a year or two, go for the 06? I wouldn't count on any great discounts right out of the chute. In fact, dealers who discount brand new models, get their allocations cut, if the factory finds out.
  • badshiftbadshift Posts: 4
    somebody help bad shift#3854 :
  • bldaz2005bldaz2005 Posts: 9
    Excuse me but i think you have read another post and mine thinking they are together, His reply was--(lateralg---" I think I have an answer, but don't want to venture a public guess".) That is to whom i was talking to and i believe the Host also. I Do not really care what the cause and repair are I AM NOT going to be repairing it, They (dealer) certainly wont listen to me as to what the problem is, Be serious i would hand them a written note as to what is wrong with the AC. MY thought is and another poster ( Chuck1- "GOT my original message"- ) is to get out of this unit into another while i am still under warrenty, i never said that they Exp & EXPY had anything in common, i was thinking i would trade in and move on possibly to the EXPY. Now you go back and RE-read my posts. Word of advise quit the coffee, sheese! ;)
  • midas72midas72 Posts: 18
    I was referring to further discounts on the 2005's...
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Oops - sorry..... :blush:
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Wish I could help you - but I know next to nothing about that transmission other than Mazda builds it for Ford, and it's usually very good and lasts forever. You might try - if you're not getting any help here. Few people with Explorers have the manual. Or post it on the Ford Ranger forum - that transmission is used all over that line.
  • midas72midas72 Posts: 18
    So NV, do you think the dealers might kick in more than $5k to rid themselves of 2005's as the new model begins to roll in?
  • lateralglateralg Posts: 929
    Sorry to offend you with a sincere effort to save you money.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    A dealer doesn't want to have any of the old model on the dirt when the new ones arrive, if he can help it - so he should be motivated to deal like crazy on an 05. Unfortunately, Ford isn't so generous with their financing incentives on the leases of these leftovers, so you'll need to buy it, not lease it to get the good discounts, if the 06's are already there.
  • killoweskillowes Posts: 1
    I got a 94 explorer w/ 4.0 V6 I'm changing the oil and have no manual. Is it 4 or 5 qt. motor.
  • midas72midas72 Posts: 18
    Oh I'll be buying it cash! The selection might not be as good, but I figure July and August will see some great reductions on 2005's.
  • bldaz2005bldaz2005 Posts: 9
    You've yet to say anything but criptic one line sentances to no one.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    You need 5 quarts with the filter change, and I certainly hope you're changing the filter.
  • lateralglateralg Posts: 929
    It's "cryptic"

    and "sentence"

    And you're correct. My sentences have been cryptic. Looking onto them would be well worth your time.
  • Hello!

    I have a strange rattling noise when my truck is idling. It dies not appear to imapct the operability of the truck. A mechanic who didn't want to open up the engine said it might be the timing chain or "guides" are loose and require adjustment. He said take it to Ford (he didn't want to do it). Has anybody ever dealt with this or know what to do with this? Can timing chains and guides be "adjusted" or repaired?

    Thanks to anyone who knows!!!
  • Thanks very much for this. We did pull out the fuse and it stopped the problem, but it also for some reason stopped the speedo working!! So we put it back as we didn't know what speed we were doing. I will call Ford UK and find out if there are any dealers who have the equipment for testing the ABS. I have been quoted £100 a sensor for the two front sensors, so we will probably do these and see if this solves the problem. I will let you know what they find out, and thank you again.

  • biomanbioman Posts: 172
    If you have the V6 SOHC engine that has less than 70K, Ford should replace the timing chain tensioner(s). I believe the tensioners were made of plastic or had plastic components that wore out prematurely. So, Ford decided to extend the warranty on the engines involved to 7 years 70K. There were catastrophic engine failures that required having the engines replaced. If this is the problem with your truck get it dealt with ASAP. With this problem the rattle is most obvious when you start a cold engine. I believe the TSB is number 0012.
  • bldaz2005bldaz2005 Posts: 9
    Fortunately i have more money than time, i just bought an Expy, see ya. have a nice life. :shades:


  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059

    I suggest turning off your CAPS LOCK. People tend to ignore messages typed in ALL CAPS.

    tidester, host
  • kayakingkayaking Posts: 2
    the same happened to my 99 ford explorer. can you tell me what the problem was?
    was it a ford recall?
  • kayakingkayaking Posts: 2
    smoke pours out of the steering wheel occasionally.
  • exploded99exploded99 Posts: 67
    I came across a message at another site where the person had ABS engaging when turning slightly, and new front sensors cured it. So that would be a good thing to try first.

    When spinning the front wheel at a constant speed the sensor should put out an ac voltage of between 100 and 3500 microvolts, and the same for the sensor on the rear.
    I think, but am not 100% sure that that can be measured at the sensor itself when disconnected (unplugged).

    The fuse puzzles me a little - did you pull the 50 amp fuse under the bonnet? (Or is that the trunk to Brits, I can't remember!). That one should disable ABS only. The small one in the interior might affect the speedo. Not a big deal if you are going to fix it.

    Good luck!
  • exploded99exploded99 Posts: 67
    It should be smoke from the steering column, behind the wheel.

    The 99's had a recall for a bad multifunction switch. Wipers would operate at odd times. The switches were replaced under the recall, but I think Ford did some kind of quick fix, as I have seen many posts about the replacement switches smoking. Mine did the same (one of the MANY reasons I am exploded99).

    Time for a new switch. I think they are available aftermarket - try and see if you find one there.
  • sharp1sharp1 Posts: 2
    I had the same thing this week. Bought a 2005 Ford Explorer XLT. Next day the fuel gauge went to empty(had a full tank) and the service engine light went on. Dealership advised today is a known problem the fuel sending unit is defective.. not a happy camper. They have to order the part and drop my fuel tank to replace the unit. Ford knows these are defective. Part is on back order. I own three Fords and this is not good business.
Sign In or Register to comment.