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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair



  • I can't think of much that these two vehicles would share. The speed sensor switches to the rear differential in 97 I believe. I have heard that the 5R55E can be put in place of the 4R55E since they have the same gear ratios (second is just a made up gear). You just don't connect up half the servoes. Have no info except have heard this rumor.
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 11,858
    that was an interesting read. i just had the rear axle seals replaced in my '02, and the SA mentioned replacing the fluid. i'll have to check the tags.
    2017 Ford Fusion SE 2014 Ford F-150 FX4
  • jayhatjayhat Posts: 1
    My Explorer came with a tow package. Out of the blue my right side trailer turn and stop will not work. I have traced the problem back to the trailer connection at the rear of the vehicle. All other lights work at that connection except left turn and stop. Have already checked all the fuses. Is there a trailer tow relay switch somewhere that maybe went bad?
    Why would just the left side not work?
  • jsommajsomma Posts: 2
    My 2003 4X4 explorer has recently started an annoying grinding noise. Happens only upon acceleration (can be a gentle acceleration, like when going uphill in the mountains). Noise sounds like it is under the car. Definitely a grind and rattle noise, not a whine or squeak. No noise when not accelerating or stepping on gas pedal. Still under warranty with 28000 miles. Ford dealer looked for a loose exhaust pipe (this was a doubtful cause as the noise doesn't happen over bumps!). Of course, found nothing! We also noticed that I am getting a leak from the backend (saw drips on garage floor, like from rear differential?). Are these symptoms related? I don't have time to go back and forth to Ford dealer!
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    It could be very well connected. Your pumpkin should not be leaking. Get the dealer to fix that - the grinding may stop. It's a good place to start.
  • bbfky1bbfky1 Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 v8 explorer about a week ago my wife noticed a musty smell every time she ran the AC. Well it has gotten worse. I have noticed there is not water draining under the car so that would be my first bet. ANyone know where the drain line is so I can unclog it? Also any ideas on how to kill the mold/mildew problem that is probably causing the smell?

  • lateralglateralg Posts: 929
    " (second is just a made up gear). "

    What do you mean by the above?
  • boomer051boomer051 Posts: 1
    I have a 92 explorer 4x4. It shifts smooth in every gear and now it will not even try to shift into overdrive. Whats the deal. It almost seems like an electrical problem. Its a one owner veh. with 115k.
  • fdthirdfdthird Posts: 352
    Hi Folks,

    Recently purchased a 2001 Explorer Sport and the left reading light in the overhead console is burnt out. Owners Manual says to go to a qualified service pro to replace bulb. Anyone know what comes off to change out this bulb?

  • There is a solenoid for the 4th gear (overdrive) and one for torque converter lock up. The problem could be the solenoid, it could be the solenoid passages or valve passages are clogged up, or it could be an electrical problem. You will need to take it to a shop to have it looked at by an experienced mechanic.
  • cplace25cplace25 Posts: 3
    I also have a 2002 and I had to have my front driver side and back passenger side wheel bearings done. There should be a recall on them. My sister drives a 2002 Focus and just got all hers replaced on a recall.
  • wischuck1wischuck1 Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a 2003 Explorer Sport with 8,000 miles on it I now have 20,000 miles. Had a problem with the front passenger tire - acted like a broken belt, so I took it to my local dealership and the service manager told me there is a problem with the front wear patter on the tires. He said the 2-door sports have a tendency to wear the tread on the outside of the front tires, so I should rotate my tires with every oil change which is 3000 miles (come on thats ridiculous), and the best solution to the problem is to replace the tires but for now they will put them on the back and the realligned the front. Is he pulling my leg and not wanting to get involved in a warranty issue (ford told me if it was a broken or shifted belt it is covered under warranty) Has anyone else seen this problem?
  • vicmedicivicmedici Posts: 1
    I have a Ford Explorer Sport 1999 with 120,000 km. Last week I discovered that the parking lights turn on by themselves for short periods during the night. This happens when the vehicle is parked and the keys are not in. I suspect some sort of shortcut. The result is, some mornings I have to get a battery boost from someone else because the lights have drained the power.
    I talked to a few mechanics and no one seems to know where the problem is. Any sort of help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  • ogbonnaogbonna Posts: 25
    I have a 1998 Explore 4x4 6 cyl. My number 3 plug fouls often (these are platinum plugs)...... any ideas out there?
  • I have a 2002 4x4 explorer and i am hearing some grinding noises when i excellerate too. I am really nervous cuz I just baught it and dont have the money to fix something huge yet. If anyone has the answers i would really appreciate it!
  • exploded99exploded99 Posts: 67
    Describe what your fouled plug looks like. Black, gray, oily, dry, etc.
  • How long does it take for the plug to foul when a new one is put in? Is the color dry black (too rich), or wet black (oil) or other? Do a compression test on the engine and compare compression between cylinders, there should be no more that 20% variation. Low compression could indicate a problem in the rings, head gasket, head or valves.
    Let us know what you find out.
    Good Luck,
  • hiskrishiskris Posts: 1
    Hi.. 3 days ago my son purchased a 1992 ford explorer (stick). He had 3 driving lessons in it totalling a little over 2 hours worth... I drove it the remaining times. The clutch went on the 3rd day. mechanic says the clutch was new... put in two years ago to this day... and a little over 20,000 miles put on it.... my question is this... could we possibly have destroyed a clutch in less than 3 days of driving around town? He seems to be blaming this problem on my son not knowing how to properly drive a stick... but i was with him each of the 3 times he was out learning and KNOW he didn't ruin the clutch....(and i KNOW i didn't either) .... any one have any ideas???? think it's going to be a battle trying to get the $1,700 back that we paid for it... everyone i've talked to says there's no WAY he could have destroyed a clutch in such little time... anyone have this problem???
  • lateralglateralg Posts: 929
    It depends on how the clutch failed.

    If the friction material or pressure plate has been scattered, this can occur easily by selecting too low a gear when downshifting. Clutch doesn't even have to be engaged. If first gear is engaged in the transmission when fourth was intended, the clutch will over-rev & possibly self-destruct.

    If the friction material is worn out or burned up, that's another story. I can destroy a clutch in less than an hour. But, it sounds like you were with the vehicle all the time & didn't observe excessive clutch slipping.

    So, if you're sure neither of the above circumstances occurred, you're probably right. However, even the auto manufacturers cinsider the clutch a wear item with a wear rate much dependent on driver habits. After 2 years & 20,000 miles, I doubt that there's a service shop on the planet that would give you a free replacement.

    I suspect that the clutch was on its last legs when you bought the vehicle. A more thorough inspection & evaluation might have saved you a lot of grief & $$.
    FWIW, I think the mechanic is way off base trying to blame your son.
  • I have a similar problem with a 1998. I just doesn't close well. eventually it got so bad that It wouldn't close at all. Had the hinges replaced and reinforced, but the problem is coming back. I would be interested to hear if you find out anything.
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 11,858
    my wife had a '91 explorer with a manual transmission. she had it for 83k. it still had the original clutch. i would agree that it would be difficult to destroy a clutch in so few miles. another thing that comes to mind is that one time i pulled a friends astro minvan and their 19 foot boat up a boat steep ramp after they couldn' get up out of the water. the clutch smelled really bad for a few minutes, but we drove it for several years after that with no problem.
    2017 Ford Fusion SE 2014 Ford F-150 FX4
  • 97mntr97mntr Posts: 2
    I cut a boot on my CV joint, so I installed a remanufactured left Half Shaft (Cardone 60-2101) and a new axle seal (National 710429, which matches the OEM seal exactly) into my 97 Mountaineer. Now the axle seal leaks. The remanufactured axle journal fits very loosely into the axle seal. The journal measures 1.401 inches. Does anyone know what a Ford left half shaft axle journal measures (I had to return my OEM shaft for the core)? A brand new Cardone left Half Shaft measures the same as the Cardone remanufactured.

    Thanks for the help... if the OEM journal is larger than 1.401, I'll have to order up a Ford OEM shaft ($200 vs the $60 for the remanufactured).
  • Define "very loosly". Is there any gap between the journal and the seal lip? Are you sure the opening in the seal is not too large? Does the seal have the circular spring behind the sealing lip?
  • 97mntr97mntr Posts: 2
    The journal fits into the seal with only slight interference. There is no gap. There is a circular spring behind the lip. I suspect the journal for two reasons...1) the seal matches the exact same numbers as the OEM seal that I pulled out; 2) I don't know how Cardone can refinish/grind/polish the used axle journal without removing some metal (unless they weld back in some material, but I don't see any evidence of that).

  • ogbonnaogbonna Posts: 25
    WET. But it does not feel like oil and there is no smoke, also I think I may need to
    replace one of my O2 sensors (there are 3) the one after the converter, could this be the problem source. BTW thanks for the response....
  • ogbonnaogbonna Posts: 25
    Thanks for the response. Wet, About a week after change
    Do you think O2 replacement would take care of the problem,
    We have not done a comp test yet.
  • markzmarkz Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 Ford Explorer which recently started a clicking sound. When I popped the hood, I noticed that one of the pulleys in the belt system (labeled as A/C) was turning on/off every 20 or so seconds. The other problem is that the A/C doesn't work (no cold air -- though the fans work fine).

    Any ideas what might be the problem?

    Thannks in advance
  • ogbonnaogbonna Posts: 25
    Sounds Like you are low on your r134 and in need of a recharge.
  • fdthirdfdthird Posts: 352
    That is typically what happens with all Ford when it has little or no freon in the system. The compressor keeps trying to turn on to cool but there is no gas so it turns off almost immediately.
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