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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair



  • chuck1chuck1 Posts: 1,405
    I don't believe "throwing money" at a problem until you fix it, if it can be fixed at all. This guy doesn't know what they problem is...and wants you to pay to find out. Go to another dealer and find someone who can figure out what the problem is (as close to humanly possible) and go from there. These trucks are bringing 12 to 13K on the used market. IF YOU NEED A NEW TRANSMISSION....ask your self if yoiu wouldn't be better off trading and buying another slightly used one!
    Good luck!
  • chuck1chuck1 Posts: 1,405
    I used the 2nd one and even received a $500.00 refund after I cancelled it when I traded in my '02 Explorer on a new '05 4Runner.

    There is no comparison in build quality (and quality control) between the 4Runner and Explorer.
  • I have a 99 Ford Explorer XLT, and during the summer months, after the engine is warmed up, when it idles, a very loud whining noise comes from the air filter canister. When you put your hand on the canister, it is vibrating incredibly fast. When I rev the engine even a little, it goes away. I have had some type of sensor replaced, and it still makes the noise. It has 92,000 miles. Any help is appreciated! First time poster.
  • Hello,
    You mentioned that if the security system is active, it will lock out the starter. How do you know the security system is active, and locking out the starter? My son recently purchased a 92 explorer XLT 2 wheel drive rig, he called saying it won't start, no noise at all when turning the ignition key, nothing happens. The rest of the electrical systems seem to be working correctly

    Thanks for your help
  • Hello,
    You sound like a person that knows your ford explorer. My son just back from Iraq, purchased a 92 explorer 2 wheel drive rig XLT, a V6 4.0 but I don’t know what type yet. He called to tell me it won't start. There is nothing we he tries, no starter sound, no clicking, nothing. I asked did the lights come on and he said yes. He stated that all of the electrical systems seem to be working. I asked did the lights dim when trying to start but he did not know. Could the security system be active and lock the starter out? My son is not mechanical, any ideas on what I can check?
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059

    Take a look at this thread: hart55, "Ford Explorer: Problems & Solutions" #4147, 2 Aug 2005 4:34 pm

    It sounds somewhat like the problem your son is having.

    Does anyone else have suggestions or ideas for Ron?

    tidester, host
  • katzjamrkatzjamr Posts: 146
    I purchased a 99 Ford Exploder new in 99. Its a vehicle used for sales estimates, no towing, i am the only driver, great maintenance on all my vehicles. At 25,000 miles the timing chain broke, ford gave me a new engine, got the new tires at 30k from ford, they have also replaced door locks, 4 wheel drive tranny, and all dash bulbs under warranty. At 60K the transmission failed in my driveway when it was just placed in reverse at idle. The extended warranty replaced my transmission. I come from a history of ford ownership and this vehicle has the most uncomfortable seats i have ever had in any vehicle. To the poster that has the 2002 exploder with the tranny problem, its my opinion that transmission is about to fail big time. Last month i purchased an RX 400h, 28 mpg, power of a v8, lots of comfort and convenience. This is the first foreign car i have ever bought, ford finally drove me to it. good luck everyone. anyone want a 99 exploder sport with 82K?
  • My explorer has 46000 and has the same problem. Our quote for repairs is $1200. Was your repair covered under any type of warranty?
  • chuck1chuck1 Posts: 1,405
    This is a common problem...Ford knows all about it. However, with the miles you have, the best you can hope for is a 50/50 split of labor and parts. AND you will only get that if your dealer goes to bat for you.

  • First of all, thanks to everyone who has helped me with this problem. I have a 97 explorer sport, with 109,000 miles on it that has an intermittent starting problem. The engine with turn over, but not start on occassion. Over the last month, I've replaced one-at-a-time, in order, the fuel filter, fuel pump, fuel relay switch, coil pack, spart plugs, and the idle air control valve. Still the problem persists, and I'm running out of parts to replace. Have been told that if the fuel pressure regulator goes bad this could happen. Also have heard of the crankcase sensor. Any suggestions? I've had it at two shops, both times it ran great and was given a clean bill of health. No computer errors or messages, and fuel pressure checks out fine. I'm open to any ideas! :confuse:
  • I think you need to figure out which direction to go: electrical or fuel

    Next time it will not start pull a plug wire and crank it and check for spark. If you pull a plug wire off while the engine is running you will know what kind of spark to expect. Use the appropriate tool so you don't get whacked.

    No spark: might be the relay for the PCM - I have heard of those failing intermittently. I can't say the crankshaft postion sensor is impossible, but your engine runs well when it starts and it does not seem to make sense that that sensor would only give you issues when starting and not when running. Same thought for the camshaft position sensor.

    If you have spark at no start then go the fuel route. Did you mean the fuel pump shutoff switch - the one that shuts off the fuel pump when you roll the truck? I would check for voltage coming out of this switch going to the pump at no start. Also, the fuel pump relay could be an intermittent problem. More likely you have an electrical issue in the fuel system if you got spark when cranking. Again, it seems unlikely the fuel pressure regulator is only a problem when cranking, and not when running.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    That could actually be several things, but I'm betting on a lazy fuel pump.
  • I own a 2000 Explorer Limited. I'm a experiencing a few problems I'm hoping someone can help me with.

    1) My ABS light is on and is stay on on. It first started when I would drive, the light would come on after ten minutes or so and stay on for the duration of the drive. If the car sat for an hour or so the problem would repeat. Now it just stays on. I bleed the brake system and all four brake pads look good. I'm not really sure what the problem is. I have no trouble breaking, but would like to fix the problem before winter.

    2) This one is new to me. When the driver's door is open and the car is off, I get a 'ding'. Its the same one that dings when the keys are in the ignition. However, I take my keys out and it stays on. My headlights are also in the off position. If I wait for 1-2 minutes and turn the headlights on, I get a double ding. When I turn the headlights off, the ding stops. I haven't a clue on what is wrong or even where to begin. :confuse:

    Does anyone have an idea. Any thoughts would really help. Thanks.
  • 2) Remove the multifunction (turnsignal/headlight/wiper) switch and check all connections. Pull the connectors off and push them back on to be sure all the contacts are connecting. Check all the connections and connectors in the steering column to be sure they are tight. If still not working, replace the multifunction switch, about $60 for the part, easy to change, just two screws hold it on after you take the cover off. The small lever for the Tilt unscrews.
    Good Luck
  • biomanbioman Posts: 172
    You ABS issue may be due to a failure of the rear ABS sensor. This is a common problem with Explorer ABS systems. The sensor is located on top of the differential housing. Pull the wire, check the sensor with a VOM. If the reading is between 800-2500 ohms, the sensor is ok. If the reading is not in that range, replace the sensor. The front sensors should have readings of 380-480 ohms. The cost for the rear sensor is $40.00 - $60.00 from Ford. Cost of a front sensor is about $125.00 from Ford. If the problem lies elsewhere, depending upon you skill level, you may want to take the truck to a good mechanic.
  • erich49erich49 Posts: 1
    My radio just went dark and is working sporadically. How can I identify the fuse number for the radio. I do not have an owners manual.
  • I have been having a problem with my 98 Explorer Sport for awhile now. Quite a few months ago, I was driving my explorer for about 1hr30min to 2hrs. I turned it off for a few minutes and then jumped back in it to leave again. It started for a couple seconds then shook violently and shut off. I waited in increasing intervals of time and the problem progressed with less violent shaking. Eventually, just when I was about to give up, I got it started. I do believe that the last couple of times I had pressed a little on the accelerator, but I don't know if that made a difference. The month prior to this I had just replaced my battery and alternator. I took it in for a diagnostic and no problem could be found. Of course, it was working fine at the shop with no problems. I was paranoid the last few months and did not drive it for long periods of time unless it was going to sit somewhere for awhile, which was very rare if ever. So, still paranoid but helpless, I drove it for about over an hour continuously again, and again it did the same thing. I am at the end of my rope here, and no one knows what the problem is. Has anyone else experienced anything like this? Please help.
  • dominic2dominic2 Posts: 10
    Hey everyone. Took my 2003 V8 Exploder with 50,000 miles into the dealer because my overdrive light was intermittently flashing and my ABS light was on constantly. Found out I had a bad ABS sensor but that wasn't the worst of the story. I am now told the torque converter is bad and will have to be rebuilt or replaced. My question is this: I am obviously out of the warranty, but how common of a problem is this on a 2 year explorer? Has anyone else experienced the same issue and had any luck having Ford or the dealer pay for the repairs? I don't understand how this could happen on a car I have always had serviced at a Ford dealership and now they expect me to pay an exorbitant amount of money to replace a part that fails on a 2 year old car. I also have easycare which is an additional warranty on top of the regular warranty but I am a bit leery of using it because the dealership wants me to pay almost $500 to tear the converter down and let easycare look at it to determine if they will even pay for the repairs.
    Any help you guys can provide (background information, etc.) would be greatly appreciated. :confuse:
  • carriercarrier Posts: 1
    This is crazy! I "googled" searching for ideas on problems with my 02 Mountaineer's transmission that started after the transmission was flushed.
    I had the service done a little sooner than you did, only because it was in the shop for other service.

    I was told that the transmission shouldn't have been flushed, only checked because my vehicle wasn't one that was listed in the scheduled maintenance guide. But, was told the problems couldn't have been connected???

    Anyway, tomorrow it will go in the shop for the third time, for what I imagine will only be a different piece of the transmission to be the culprit.

    Tomorrow's visit will be the first while the vehicle is no longer under warranty. The last time it was in was about 10 days ago, just before the warranty expired.

    A friend sells used cars, and is the manager of the lot for the same large auto group and he advised he had seen transmission problems with the 2002's.

    Any ideas?
  • That problem would put anyone at the end of their rope. The problem does not occur unless you drive it over an hour and not until you turn it off and then try to restart the engine, right? I would call the Garage and make an appointment for them to check your car, tell them you are going to take it for a long drive before you bring it in. Then an hour and a half before your appointment, take it for a long drive, then to the garage and hope they can catch it while it won't start. That may be about the only way to find the problem for sure. It could be a lot of things, fuel system, ignition system, maybe a fuel injector fails and leaks fuel into the cylinder and floods the engine. It may be the heat, does it seem to get hot? I could guess all day long, but it needs good diagnostic procedures to find the problem when it acts up.
    Good Luck
  • alman08alman08 Posts: 282
    wow, seems like a few here have reported problems on their 2002+ transmission after the flush. i was advised by my service guy to also have that done on the 60k service. so should i take the risk???
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    I bookmarked this flush post long ago - may be of interest:

    amigo_john, "Isuzu Trooper" #8070, 30 Jun 2003 10:46 am

    Steve, Host
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    It's not the fuse, it's the display on the radio - they fail after several years, requiring a new display.
  • Explorers are having quite a few problems with trannys. Lots of posts on here about them.

    You are out of warranty, but the dealer may agree to pay some portion of the repair if you are a good customer. If you only go in for warranty work, and do your regular servicing elsewhere, it will be tough to get any accomodation.

    If the transmission is shifting smoothly, and you are not noticing any real shifting problems, truck runs fine, and your torque converter locks up like it should at steady speed (rpm drop on tach) you can try a fluid flush and filter. Then, add a product called LubeGaurd to the tranny per the instructions on the can. It may take care of the problem. Lube Guard improves clutch lockup, and enhances lubrication.

    Suggesting that in case you get no accomodation from the dealer and you don't want to fork up the money for a torque converter change out.

    If you get an accomodation, it would probably be wise to take it and do the repair.
  • jimc47jimc47 Posts: 1
    What is the torque for the thermostat bolts on my 99 V6 Explorer.? Thanks, Jim
  • rcgsrrcgsr Posts: 1
    Experiencing sluggish shift when hot and long drive up hill. Changed transmission fluid and filter. Put back together and seems to be in drive all the time. Doesn't move in park or reverse but seems to still be in drive. Tries to go forward. When driving shifts fine as long as going forward. Suggested by mechanic that linkage came apart. Dropped pan again and linkage is fine. Any suggestions.??? Has 100,000 miles and is great except this.
  • elliatelliat Posts: 2
    Hello everyone,

    I’m new on this forum and I hope someone will give me a good advise.

    I just purchased 2002 Ford Explorer XLT. V8, 4.6L.
    The car has a strange noise, somewhere between engine and transmission.
    It sounds like something loose and rattles. But this noise appears only when I put my truck in “DRIVE”, when it’s in “PARK” its nice and quiet. And also, when I rise RPM to 2000 or more the noise goes away.
    If anyone had this problem, or know anything about it, please let me know.

    I thank you in advance
  • How many miles? Is all maintainence up to date? It sounds like a transmission torque converter failure or transmission pump failure. You will need to get this checked at a good shop. They can check the trans codes, oil pressures and use proper diagnostic procedures. If it is either of these items, the transmission will have to come out and cost a big piece of change. I believe you have the 4R70W transmission, and they are usually very reliable. I have a 97 exp with V8 4R70W 140,000 miles and a 2000 exp with V8 4R70W with 107,000 miles and both transmissions shift and run perfect. I flush my transmissions myself every 30,000 miles.
    Good Luck,
  • samvsamv Posts: 4

    Wow, I also have a 2002 Explorer XLT with approx 50K miles and have the exact same problem. The first thing I noticed was when I put the shifter in reverse, it would pause a few seconds before engaging. Shortly after that I noticed the hesitation between shifts.

    I have a Ford Extended Warranty. Please let me know what the dealer tells you. Looks to me like the tranny needs to be replaced.
  • idntnvuidntnvu Pulaski, VirginiaPosts: 254
    I had the exact same issue with my '99 XLS Explorer that I just traded off. It had gotten worse this year than it had been over the past 2 that I had it. It only had 57k miles on it. First time I ever noticed it was the first summer I had it in '03. Last summer I didn't notice it at all, and this summer, it was incredibly loud and didn't take long to start making the noise. It was always hot outside when it did it though, never did it when the ambient temp was below 75. I never had it checked out, but had I kept the vehicle any longer I definitely would've had it checked out.
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