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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair



  • santarsantar Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with my 2000 explorer. High pitch squeal coming from the front end. Brakes good as well as bearings?
  • I'll state up front that I've had a lot of problems with transmissions with this vehicle. Assuming that the more recent problems aren't related to the previous problems, I'll stick to just this transmissions' issues. About 6 months ago, I replaced the stock rebuilt tranny with a lifetime warranted heavy duty one (from Cottman) since I was planning on using it off road. Also, about the same time, I had to put a new transfer case in. The first problem that I began having was a bouncing speedometer, which kept me from using the speed control. I replaced the sensor and sensor plastic gear. Problem solved...for about 6 months. The problem came back with a vengeance. Speed reading all over the place, leaving the transmission confused as to what gear to be in. Tranny guy said it was a speedometer issue and sent me to a speedometer specialists. The specialist said it was a warn "Aluminum" gear in the transmission driving the plastic sensor pickup gear. Tranny guy says no it's not in the tranny but in the transfer case and it's plastic not aluminum and the transfer case warranty doesn't cover plastic. Question...Is the internal gear plastic or aluminum? and is it located in the tranny or transfer case? Also, Tranny guy replaced the pickup and external plastic gear and it mostly works highway speeds..60 to 70 mph the car gets random jolts. the jolts don't appear to be shifting because no detectable change in rpm. Could this be the torque converter lock going in and out of lock at random or is it some other issue?
  • Update on 92 EB

    No compression... ....CAM CHAIN BROKE

    BUT WAIT...
    Put it all together to spec. primed the fuel system and cranked engine to mill oil over new parts, (cam chain, sprockets, new rockers and rods ((to get rid of the crazy tappppping noise)) ).

    It started for about 10 seconds then nothing.
    Checked spark, good
    Checked fuel, good

    Checked fuel pressure...
    ingition on. 35 psi
    then quickly down to ZERO

    Then found fuel around 5 of my injectors.

    Do you think the new found compression forced the fuel out past the injectors' o-rings?

    And I thought CSI was cool...

    Car Scene Investigations
  • Seems like I've seen this post before...
    Sounds like you definetly have fuel injector leaks, if it went back down to zero quickly, I assume that was after you turned the key off. The system should hold pressure after you turn the key off. You need to remove all the injectors and carefully check all the o-rings, since you are getting external fuel leaks. Did you reuse the old o-rings or use new o-rings? The o-rings must be the correct size and thickness and be lubricated, then carefully slide the parts together, being careful not to cut or tear the o-rings.

    I'm curious about the cam chain, how did that break? That is an extremely rare thing to happen. They would usually just stretch with age and jump out of time. Is the compression back up to where it should be now? What are your compression readings?

    Good Luck,
    E.D. in Sunny Florida
  • Hi,

    97 AWD XLT 5.0l, 90000 miles. took it in for oil change today and looking at the invoice it turns out that they used 5w20, no brand name specified.
    searched this forum for 5w20 and it returned no results -- not a popular oil grade with these engines I suppose. is that going to cause any harm to the engine? should I have it replaced?

  • I had the same proplem with the pinging sound.It went away
    when I used HI TEST.I have a 98 Explorer with 4l OSHC.
  • Your engine should NOT ping using 87 octane. If the problem gets too intense for too long, it can cause engine damage. Is should be corrected right away. Do you get any Check Engine Light (CEL)? Some faults will cause this to happen without setting the CEL, such as weak oxygen sensors and dirty Mass Air Flow sensors. These are common problems.

    Check the operation of the Oxygen Sensors with an engine scanner to see if they are responding properly, or have them checked by your mechanic. The first thing that happens to them as they age is that they become lazy and respond slowly, then as they get worst the responses get weaker and weaker. When Oxygen Sensors get weak, they send the wrong signal to the computer which then sends the wrong signal to the fuel injectors, making the fuel mixture wrong when accellerating and causing the pinging. They can also damage the catalylitic Converters by allowing unburnt fuel in the exhaust into them. The engine needs the correct fuel/air mixture under all driving conditions for complete burning of the fuel. New oxygen sensors may fix this, you may not need to replace all four. The scanner should show which ones are not operating correctly, Replace only those.

    The same thing applies to the MAF, it is basicly a device in the air tube right near the air cleaner box with a tiny heating coil and a thermisistor, it tells the computer how much air is going into the engine. It can get dirty and send the wrong signal to the computer and make the engine ping without setting the CEL. Cleaning it is easy if your are CAREFUL. The tiny heating wire is very fragil like a filament wire in a light bulb, and can be lightly sprayed with a cleaning solvent like Electra Clean or CRC, but do not touch or brush the tiny wire. You can find instructions on how to clean the MAF by Googling "cleaning maf", or take it to your mechanic.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. in Sunny Florida
  • Your Guess was right, it's a 4.0L SOHC 6 cyl engine. I'll have to look up the transmission model. I also had a 2002 V8 explorer but traded it in before gas prices soared past $3. It had about 36,000 so nowhere near the mileage of 72,000 when my first transmission failed. I'll be checking the location of the pickup soon. The same guy who rebuilt the tranny is in fact the same guy who provided the transfer case. I have a feeling that I might have to pull the sensor pickup and try to take a picture of the internal gear, if that is possible.

    Thanks a lot for taking the time to answer my questions.
  • My 1998 Explorer will not go into overdrive. When it does go into overdrive it will get kicked out into neutral and then the overdrive light will begin flashing.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    If you haven't already addressed this, try a body shop. I'm sure they have had to make this repair before on an Explorer. Plus their hourly rates are cheaper than a dealership.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    Shouldn't be a problem. Ford has been specifying this oil for the past couple of years supposedly to improve gas mileage.
  • mr1mr1 Posts: 1
    How can I disengage the alarm on my vehicle. It goes off for no reason
  • I purchased a 99 Explorer XLT about 18 months ago and have never engaged the 4WD. I know that this is something that should be done on a regular basis and am kicking myself for not doing so yet. I had the 90K service done last month so assume that everything should be good to go. The car has a 4WD high and low switch. Is there anything I should be aware of before I turn on the 4WD? Also does the 4WD need to be switched on before I start the car or can this be done while the car is running? Also, what's the difference between the high and low?
  • kuppykuppy Posts: 3
    I have the same problem, have you found a solution......Kuppy :mad:
  • kuppykuppy Posts: 3
    my 1996 Explorer recently had a broken flywheel, has anyone had this same problem?..Kuppy :confuse:
  • What Trans? I assume it a manual, never heard of one to break. How bad a break, did it come apart? What happened to the clutch? Did it break near the bolt holes or towards the edge? Was it during normal driving or was it high reving, like in racing or hot rodding?
  • I have an 02 Explorer, no owners manual - anyone know how to set the compass?
  • ajmtbmajmtbm Posts: 245
    you can download the manual for free from
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    I would not do it for the sake of exercising the 4WD. You should not use 4wd high on anything but slick surfaces like rain and snow. The low setting should only be used in low traction areas like sand, mud, deep snow, etc. The reason for this is the 4wd system locks your front wheels to spin in unison. It relies on the surface to provide slip need to keep the wheel going. If you make a turn, the inside wheel typically spins at a differnet rate than the outside wheel. In 4WD they spin at the same rate so it needs the surface to provide the slip needn't so they spin at different rates. If there is no slip, it can cause serious damage to the system. I had a 91 Explorer and had to replace the hubs to a tune of $800.

    you can shift into 4wd high up to 50 mph. Quite honestly, if you need 4wd you should not be driving that fast.
  • kuppykuppy Posts: 3
    Automatic trans, broke in center around bolt holes and slipped under moderate towing. I had put in a Jasper trans and had less than 8,000 miles on it. trans went too. Jasper replaced in full.
  • So it was actually the Flex Plate that broke, the plate that bolts the torque converter to the engine. It is unusual to see one of these break, usual cause would be cracks caused by stress or vibration, caused by loose bolts on flex plate to crankshaft or else loose bolts on flex plate to torque converter. Was the Flex plate the stock Flex plate that had been on the engine before? Where all bolts securely fastened? Was a new or remanufactured and balanced torque converter used? Jasper is about the best remanufactured trans you can get, did you get the trans complete with the remanufactured torque converter? So Jasper replaced the transmission, torque converter, and you bought a new stock flex plate and bolted it all on? First time I've heard of a problem with a Jasper Transmission, but it might have been a cracked flex plate that made the whole thing blow, I suspect that would be the most likely cause of the problem. If you now have everything bolted together tight with no vibration and running smooth, you should not have any more problems with it.
    Good Luck
    E.D. in Sunny Florida
  • Does this have anything to do with the crank shaft positioning sensor. Truck runs very rough, feels like engine is cutting out. Check engine light blinks.
  • This is for 1996 Explorer AWD V8
  • Pretty simple to reset the compass. Just go to a parking lot and turn around in circles a few times. The compass resets to north when it sees it a couple of times....
  • At a stand still, put the transmission in Neutral, then move to 4W High. It should switch over in a couple of seconds. Same procedure for 4WL or 2WH changes... at least that's what the book on my 01 Explorer says, and it works. :D
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    I think P0300 means there is a random misfire in the cylinder. Do a Google search "Explorer P0300" to gather more infomration.
  • I have a 1999 Explorer and have the same problem. I contacted my local Parts Dept to get a quote on a replacement and to replace the unit was over $1000. The Parts Dept Manager recommended that I contact a local radio shop who does a swap out. I called them and they will do that for $250. The radio shop indicated that it is a common problem and a design flaw by Pioneer.
  • 1997 was a great year for Ford Explorer. Our 1997 Explorer XLT with 5.0L V8 is just fabulous in 2006 with over 142,500 miles on it. It has original Engine, Transmission & Radio, all operating flawlessly like new. Only a few items have been replaced, Radiator one time, Multifunction Switch one time, Lower Ball Joints one time, Cruise Control Buttons one time, and of course the usual wear items like belt, brakes, tires, etc...
    It's really been and still is a highly outstanding vehicle, and we plan to drive it into 2008. I dare say it's the best vehicle we have ever owned!
    I think my 2000 Ford Explorer XLT 5.0L V8 is going to turn out just as good.
  • I've been looking at pics of '98 Explorer v6 sohc engines (the same one in my truck). I've noticed all the Motorcraft wire boots are black. Is this true for all their wires?

    My wires are grey, but I have Orange wire boots. I figure this would be an easy way to tell whether they've been changed already by the PO. It beats ripping off a boot and ruining wires, by testing it with a multi meter.

    They look new. I bet the PO changed them at 50k. It now has a hundo k miles; it was purchased with 88k miles. It runs great no hesitation or anything and starts right up on the coldest days.

    My lazy mechanic doesn't want to change them and the plugs, and for good reason -- it looks difficult. I sure do not want to be bothered either.

    Although I wouldn't mind better gas mileage. I am only getting 14/gallon -- down from 18/gallon. The 18 was when I would joy ride more, when I first bought the vehicle in the Summer ie more highway mixed in. I've been driving my usual commute -- just a parking lot. Also it is cold now here. I have noticed with my other vehicles, that matters a lot, with gas mileage. Thanks
  • My 1997 Explorer XLT 5.0L V8 also has gray wires with orange boots. I don't know if they are original, bought at about 95,000 miles, now 144,000.
    If engine is running good, leave them on. To avoid ripping boots, Twist boots back a forth while pulling them off, then put dielectric silicone grease in each boot before pushing them back on. Then they won't stick anymore. Large spark plug gaps cause the wires to burn, so be sure the gaps are not too big. I like to gap mine a little closer than spec, to make the wires last longer.
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