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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair



  • tavtav Posts: 2
    I have the exact same problem. It occured just after I backed into a pile of snow which jarred the back bumper. Not enough to cause any damage and I'm not sure if it is relevant but it is odd that it happened at the same time. This is obviously a manufactures defect, and a dangerous one at that, but you won't hear that from Ford. I have a 2000 Explorer Eddie Bauer and just spent $400 at the dealer to fix it. The mechanic at the dealership admits that this is common but won't give me any numbers. Anyone know who to complain to at Ford?
  • perkins1perkins1 Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Explorer XLT with leather seats that are cracking. I purchased the vehicle new 15 months ago and have just under 11,000 miles on the Explorer. The dealer replaced the driver seat with cracks in them around 4,000 miles. Now one of the rear seats is cracking. The vehicle is used for normal use wiht no heavy objects transported on the seats. I purchased the Explorer from a dealer in Tampa, Florida. The truck was manufactured in August 2004 and I purchased it in December 2004 with only 3 miles on it so it appears to have sat on the lot for 4 months. I store the vehicle in a garage. Any ideas on what is wrong with the seats?
  • I have a 1995 ford explorer XLT with 170,000 miles no real major problem other than fuel pump replacement about a year ago,bought it with 62,000 miles.Having trouble with the dashboard light half is readable the other half is not .I'm thinking it's a blown bulb having check the fuse.Also, I grinding noise from the rear mainly when backing out or startup driving at low speed that the only time that I hear it.Brake were inspected all good might need a 2ND option any recommendation.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Would you happen to have a digital picture of how bad your seats cracked? I'm getting little cracks on our seat also, which is 2004 bought at end-of-year so we've only had it about 18 months as well, with 8K miles.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    image is a good place to make albums and post those cracking leather pics. Just log in with your Edmunds username and password and you're off and running.

    Click on a member's name and then the CarSpace link in their profile (like mine :shades: ) to easily get to their page.

    Steve, Host
  • ajmtbmajmtbm Posts: 245
    50,000 miles on an 02 limited, still have never changed the brakes. when can i expect to have to change the brakes? what is typical?
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 11,859
    don't forget the 'cracky' rear liftgte!
    2017 Ford Fusion SE 2014 Ford F-150 FX4
  • rperkinsrperkins Posts: 1
    Cannot find fuel filter. I just changed the one in F150 and had no problems but CANNOT locate this one??ANy help
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Dealer replaced the solenoid in the transmission to address the 'slow to engage' problem, indicated it was part of a TSB. The dealer also rerouted some wiring that was vibrating against the firewall, which fixed the dash vibration issue.
  • skeet89skeet89 Posts: 1
    i have the same problem with my 91 explorer i hear the motor going but the window either wont move or it will slightly. Do u have any suggestions?
  • You do not have the same problem at all. You have the most common of all window lift motor problems and the easiest to fix. The Plastic gear inside the window motor is not turning because there are 3 round plastic cylinder shaped pieces in the middle of the plastic gear that deteoriate to pieces, and let the center drive mechanism slip inside the gear, so the motor turns but the gear does'nt. You can remove the motor and replace it, (about $70 at auto parts)or take the motor apart, clean it out and replace the 3 plastic clyinder pieces, available at CarQuest Auto Parts, (only place I've seen it)called "The Last Bushing", a small kit, that cost about 10 bucks, if you are mechnically inclined.
  • supermatsupermat Posts: 1
    If you have not already solved the chirping problem, it is caused by the brake pads being stuck in the caliper and just lightly rubbing on the rotor. Your old mechanic will have removed the pads, cleaned the mounts and lubricated with copperslip. I guarantee that is the problem.
  • tomholttomholt Posts: 1
    Check along the frame rail beneath the drivers side door. It should be mounted right to the rail. You will need a special tool to release the fuel lines. You might also want to read up on depressurizing the fuel line. I would advize to you do that before removing the existing filter.
  • Can anyone tell me where the pcv valve is located for a 1995 ford explorer 4.0 liter V6 please i had spent 6 hours trying to locate it. Thank you!!
  • pmadsenpmadsen Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Ford Explorer and have a terrible squeak in the front part of the engine. I have replaced the tensioner pulley and also replaced the idler pulley, thinking this was the problem. I have taken off the belt and ran the engine and I still have the squeak. It sounds like it is coming from the crankshaft seal. What is the best way to solve this problem, I try and do all my own repairs. I read a message on here that said they used marine grease to solve this problem. What is the best why to access the seal. Please help, thanks
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Taking the belt off leaves only the crankshaft and the camshaft as potential problems.....both very serious. Get it to an engine repair shop ASAP before you allow more damage to occur.
  • I have a problem with a 94 Explorer engine. It starts and idles fine but cuts out when you give it gas. It will rev up if you slowly push the throttle but has very little power and revs down slowly. I replaced a couple of cracked rubber lines on the back drivers side of the intake, and it helped a little, but the vehicle won't make enough power to drive and still cuts out when you push the gas pedal down to a normal driving amount. It has no check engine light on, so I haven't tried to figure out how to read the trouble codes. Wish it was OBD2!!! I have a reader for those. Hope someone can help me with this. It's my mother in law's car and I'm trying to fix it for free since she is broke, so I don't want to start swapping the MAF and IAS etc. The exhaust seems to blow OK so I think the Cat isn't plugged. It also has 174K of trouble free miles!!! Plugs and wires are OK. Anyone have the cure?
  • You need some diagnostics here. Connect a Vacuum Gauge to the intake manifold and check the vacuum. Check all the hoses for cracks and leaks.
    You can also loose vacuum at the Power Brake Booster, or from loose intake manifold bolts. Check intake manifold bolts for tightness, if you find any loose, snug them down, don't ovetighten them.
    How about the fuel filter, has it been changed lately? It sbould be changed every 30K.
    Check the Air Intake Tube between the MAF and the Throttle Body, they tend to crack and leak on the underside, take it off and check it carefully. If the Air Intake Tube leaks, it can make the vehicle run very badly, because the engine is getting more air than the computer thinks, and it calibrates the fuel mixture too lean. If you find any cracks, tape it up with duct tape to see if it makes any improvement. If it does improve, put on a new Air Intake Tube.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. in Sunny Florida
  • pafriedleypafriedley Posts: 2
    I have a 1993 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer Ed. and the automatic 4 WD does not work any more. I can't figure out what is wrong and the only thing I have not doe is replace the control panel (buttons) for the automatic 4WD found on the dash. Has anyone had this problem?
  • pafriedleypafriedley Posts: 2
    I have a 1993 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer Ed. and the automatic 4 WD does not work any more. I can't figure out what is wrong and the only thing I have not done is replace the control panel (buttons) for the automatic 4WD found on the dash. Has anyone had this problem?
  • willowswillows Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Explorer xlt 4x4 that has 38,000 miles on it. A few months ago the front lighter (what are they called now that they aren't used as a cigarette lighter?) stopped working. I just let it go because I have the rear one and planned to take care of it before the summer. Now when I set the car alarm, it is giving two beeps instead of one even if all the doors are closed. I have also noticed that the "open door" light is going on when I start it up even if all the doors are closed.

    Has anyone else had these problems? I have the extended warranty so will bring it to the dealer but was wondering if anyone knew the root of the problem.

  • Thank you!!!! The problem was big holes on the bottom of the air tube and a dirty MAF sensor(probably from the gapping holes in the tube). The Explorer runs like a champ now. Without this site I would have still been pulling my hair out. Thanks again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • You are certainly welcome, glad to help.
  • revriderrevrider Posts: 1
    Had the same problem on my 2002,it was intermittent at first. When it was working right I opened and closed each door till it would stay on. It ended up being the driver's door, if you banged on it on the outside near the handle it would go off, I lubed the latch mechanism and key lock cylinder with wd-40, seems to be ok after 3 mos, must be a switch that sticks in there someplace.
  • ssalladessallade Posts: 1
    We've had a lot of rain lately, so I was thinking that was the reason for my brakes squeaking...but now I feel that shudder if I have to stop suddenly-that tells me I may need brakes. I've NEVER needed brakes on a car (previous Explorer included) before around 50,000 miles. Anybody else having this problem? Do these symptoms mean there could be something else wrong other than wear/tear on the brakes?
  • copierguycopierguy Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 sport. Recently the rear running lights and dash lights went out. I replaced a blown fuse, but they still do not work.
    Can anyone help?
    Thank You
  • biomanbioman Posts: 172
    You must have had a very light foot! 50K and no brake pads required. I'll bet you need them now. I replaced the front pads on my 99 XLT at 22K, 50K and 71K. Rear at 40K & 75K. The last replacements, front & rear, were Raybestos QS Ceramic. That squealing you hear is the warning that your brakes pads are at the point of being completely worn. I hope you did not have uneven wear on the brake pads. Sometimes this could mean you are eating in to one side of the rotors. Get it checked ASAP!!
  • I have been using the Performance Friction Carbon Metallic Brake Pads on my last 4 Explorers, because they last over 60,000 miles when used with the stock rotors. I do a lot of stop and go city driving. They are LOW dust and can take hard braking, and high temperatures, and are not that expensive, about $42 for the front and about $45 for the rears, plus shipping. The Carbon Metallic pads will actually make the rotors last longer and wear more evenly. I highly recommend the Performance Friction Carbon Metallic brake pads, I keep a set on the shelf in the garage when the pads on the vehicle get down to about 5/32" of lining. New pads have 11/32" of lining, and you MUST replace them when they get down to 3/32" of lining or before. That means you can get over 60,000 miles out of 8/32" of lining, which computes to getting about 8,000 miles out of each 1/32" of lining. I have never had to replace or resurface any rotor after running the Carbon Metallics on them. On my 1997 V8 Explorer, I ran the Carbon Metallics for over 60,000 miles until they wore out, and the rotors still looked good, and I put another set of Carbon Metallics on the same rotors. That vehicle now has almost 150,000 miles with the original front rotors, and they have never been turned, are not warped and they brake very smooth and straight. It is amazing how the brakes still feel like new. You can find the Carbon Metallics with a Google Search. Just remember to keep up all maintenance. Every 30k, I flush all the brake fluid at the same time that I flush the transmission fluid. It only uses about a quart bottle of brake fluid, well worth spending the 5 bucks. The transmission flush cost me 50 bucks for 20 quarts of Mercon V Trans Fluid, plus 10 bucks for the Trans filter.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. in Sunny Florida
  • I thought it sounded strange, that you had a terrible squeak even with the belt off. Then the same thing happened to me! I've got a 2000 Ford Explorer XLT with the 5.0L V8 engine. You did not mention your engine size.
    I started getting squeaking and squealing sounds last week and thought it would be the idler pully bearings going bad. I pulled off the belt, and sure enough I still heard the squealing, it kind of comes and goes, stops and starts, or it may start and continue for a while. It sure did sound exactly like a dry rubber seal squealing, and the only seal it could be is the one on the front of the crankshaft, behind the harmonic balancer pully. It was very difficult to reach, but I squirted WD-40 behind the pully in the direction of the seal, from every angle that I could reach. It seemed to work, as the squeal has went away for now. The question now is if the squeal will stay gone or not. I replaced the bearings in both of the idler pullies while I was in there, as they were starting to get loose and did not spin smoothly. I'll post back if the squeak reocurres, and what the solution would be. I'd hate to have to drain the cooling system, pull the radiator, pull the fan and pull the Harmonic Balancer Pully just to reach a squeaky seal. If I did all that work, I'd be sure to put in a new seal and grease it good with some synthetic grease. Once the Harmonic Balance Pully is off, the Front Crankshaft Seal removes from the front, so the timing cover does not need to be removed. Just pull out the old seal, and press in the new seal, and put everything back together.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. in Sunny Florida
  • ajmtbmajmtbm Posts: 245
    02 exp with the v6. while stopped but in drive, i hear a buzzing sound. if i pop into park it goes away. doesn't do it all the time, but i cant figure out what it is.
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