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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair



  • What kind of scanner are you using? For some reason, it must not be reading right. See if you can try another scanner, or go to Autozone, they will scan it for free. I prefer the Autotap or the Autoenginuity Scanners.

    About the transmission, it needs to be scanned with a transmission capable scanner. Find out the transmissions DTC and diagnose it from there.

    E.D. ISF
  • The scanner is a Innova 3100.
  • I read the review of the Innova 3100, and it seems like it should do a good job. There might be a problem with the reader, or with the wiring in the car. I would still take it by Autozone and have them read it for free.

    Here is the link to the review of the Innova 3100 by Bruce Bonebrake:
  • okiiokii Posts: 2
    Help!!! I made a big mistake when I had to jump start my '97 explorer. Apparently there is a bolt attached to the alternator that when used as a ground when jump starting the car will damage the stainless steel braided fuel lines.
    There was a recall on this issue in "98 where Ford affixed a sticker warning of this. Unfortunately, the english portion of the sticker was hidden and I didn't notice it ( I bought the car used last year). Now there is a strong smell of gas in the passenger cabin and engine compartment. How much does it cost to replace these lines, and should I use a Ford dealership or automechanic shop?
  • expo1expo1 Posts: 5
    I have a 1998 explorer eddie bauer with 130k and both 4x4 (low)dash lights blink when moving. also when making a turn the truck stops moving feels like the 4x4 auto kicks in. any ideas for a fix thanks
  • Comments on Jump Starting:
    I always prefer and recommend when Jump Starting a vehicle, that you connect the jumper cables directly to the battery terminals, connect the BLACK cable to the Negative post terminal and the RED cable to the Positive post terminal. The reason why is to avoid the problem that this person now has. If you connect the ground terminal to the alternator or somewhere on the alternator bracket or engine, the heavy current has to find a path to flow back to the negative side of the battery. If there is not a good wire connection, it will take whatever path of least resistance that it can find, which is is this case, was the poor fellows steel braided fuel lines, which are obviously not meant to be electrical conductors, and were overheated and damaged. I know that at some places they recommend to connect the negative cable to the alternator housing or bracket, but I recommend to not do it. Remember, the electricity is always trying to travel to the LOAD, in this case it's the battery, so always connect the cables directly to the battery, let it charge up the battery some first, then try to start the car.
    Sorry fella about your fuel lines. I'd call around to the dealer and some independent shops first and get some quotes on the telephone first, then head out to the repair shop.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • I am getting a P0401 DTC. milage is 217000. I replaced the dpfe several thousand miles ago; at least over 1 year. Cleaned the egr about 6 months age. Recently started getting this code.
    The vacuum regulator(this is the solenoid I think...please correct me if i am wrong)checks out resistence wise but when i blow through it i can feel a little air coming through with it off the explorer. After tapping it around and refitting back on truck the code went away but came back today. emporary improvement???...don't know)
    Battery voltage to dpfe is adequate. The Haynes says to backprobe sig and ground terminals. Here is my problem. The wiring schematic shows BR/LG GOING DIRECTLY to the pcm, GY/R going to S166 and BR/W APPEARS TO GO TO tie in with the TPS AND Goes to the pcm. Which wires should be backprobed to check the operating voltage? The Haynes guy at tech support had me use the BR/W to checck incoming voltage so it must be the other two that are signaling the pcm. Shouldn't one of them be going to ground or are they both signals to the PCM. When I attach my meter to them both I get 5V with engine cold. The manual says I should get .75 to 1.25 when cold and 4-6 when hot. So either I got a bad dpfe or I am hooked up wrong. I want to think that the dfpe I replaced already ois still good and I either need to clean or replace the EGR valve and /or get a new solenoid that doesn't allow ANY air when I blow through(unless I should have used a pump to blow through it. Seems to me if manually blowing is sending air then a pump would just send more.) I also plan on getting a pump to test the EGR before replacing it. Any help would be appreciated.
  • You did not state what Vehicle, or What Year, or What Engine. The P0401 DTC is for EGR flow insufficient detected. Looking at my 1997 Explorer information, the BR/W wire IS 5 volts power. It is connected to the TPS because it provides power to the TPS and the DPFE. I read 5.05 volts on mine. My 1997 has the EGR Valve Position Sensor, not the DPFE, so I'll give you some info from my online manual. The diagram I have shows the BR/LG does go from the DPFE directly to the PCM, and it shows two different DPFE's, one is the new black plastic one and the other is the original Aluminum one. It says that for the Black plastic one, when the differential pressure is 0 (idle), the voltage should be 1 volt, and for the aluminum one at dp of 0, (idle) the voltage should be .55 volt. The GY/R goes to S166, which appears to have a LOT of wires connected to it, so it is either a system common connection or is grounded. The voltage readings should be taken from the GY/R wire to the BR/LG wire. The voltage reading will be off if the differential pressure is off, so be sure the lines and passages are open and not pinched or clogged. There is also a chart that shows that the voltage rises to almost 5 volts (4.95 volts) as the differential pressure increases.
    Hope this helps some.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • Thanks for the response ED it was helpful. The truck is a 98 5.0 V8 explorer. It appears that I did have the leads of my meter on the correct colors. I will check again to reconfirm I did get the 5V reading which by your info and the Haynes I have a bad dpfe..again. If per chance it checks out I am on the way to concentrating on the egr itself with a vacuum check and really cleaning the egr valve or replacement to rid myself of this code . What do you think of the aftermarket OEM replacements vs. Ford parts for these emmisions components. I have read on a couple of post to go with the Ford parts???
  • My 1997 is also a 5.0 V8, but I think the EGR system changed sometime in 1997, and mine does not have the DPFE. I am not for sure, but it seems that the differential pressure would be zero if you pulled both hoses off the DPFE, and it seems that the reading should be as I stated before, 1 volt for the black plastic dpfe. Which one do you have? Plastic or Aluminum? You can try that with a new one or another one, plug the electrical connector into it, but don't connect the hoses and see what reading you get.
    Check the GY/R wire with the meter to ground to see if you get any reading. If not, then the GY/R wire and the S166 is probably grounded. If that is the case, you could also measure the dpfe voltage from the BR/LG wire to ground. The BR/LG wire appears to be the signal wire to the PCM from the DPFE.

    As for the Parts, I don't know which is best, I've only bought FORD or GM EGR's, not aftermarket.
  • I have the aluminum housing.
    No vacuum to the egr so I may have a evr solenoid that is not opening with voltage. This may be my code
    When I apply vacuum to the egr at hot idle the idle drops and returns when the vacuum is released. I think the valve is good even though the test was not set up exactly per CHILTON.
    Also the voltage reading at cold idle is still high yet dropped with vacuum to the egr valve and I believe it was dropping as the car warmed up which is backwards. I think I will replace the evr solenoid and see if the code returns. If it does I will redo the dpfe again. Make sense?
  • You have no vacuum to the egr, it may be because the evr solenoid is not getting the correct voltage signal from the PCM, and that may be because the PCM is not getting the correct voltage signal from the dpfe. I tend to think that is what is happening. Don't replace the evr yet, try to see if you can get the output voltage of the dpfe (the BR/LG wire from the dpfe to the PCM) within limits first.
    What voltage reading do you get now with the engine running at idle and warmed up, between the BR/LG wire and the GY/R wire? Under the same conditions, what do you get between the BR/LG wire and Ground? I'm thinking they should read the same , or very close. I'm also thinking the the PCM sees and reacts to the voltage that reads from BR/LG to Ground. You have the aluminum dpfe, so you should be reading close to .55 volts. If not, I think you said it was high, try disconnecting both of the hoses from the dfpe, this should remove all differential pressure from the dpfe and it should read the "base" voltage of about .55 volts, if it is working correctly. If you can't get the correct voltage out of the dpfe on the BR/LG wire, try another dpfe. If you get a black plastic dpfe, the base voltage on those is supposed to be about 1 volt. Try that first and then work from there.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • Hey ED here is something I want to make sure I am doing correctly. When the test method is to connect SIG(BR/LG as we have deduced) and "ground" does that mean between a ground point on the component such as a screw or even on the motor , bracket , etc. or on the other wire GR/R which by the way reads infinite resistence disconnected from the harness and -.0167 volts when backprobed and connected to the harness. When I read voltage between BR/LG and a ground point I get the same 4.84V i got when I read BR/LG and GR/R. (THIS ANSWERS YOUR QUESTION ABOUT THE WARM READING...I WILL DISCONNECT THE HOSES AND SEE IF i GET THE .55V WHICH YOU SEEM TO SAY WILL HAVE NO VACUUM EVEN WHEN WARM SINCE THE HOSES WILL BE DISCONNECTED. )

    Now this was done with the truck after it had only sat an hour after driving for One hour and not cold idle so maybe there was some vacuum. I should probably do this also when cold and see if I get the .55 volts for the aluminum housing. I want to think this dpfe is in good shape.

    My other concern is that now the "check engine light is not illuminated while driving so the fact that this is intermittent may indicate its mechaanical. Would not the light be continual if it was a bad signal from the dpfe? I don't want to have to replace every component which is not good troubleshooting and costly...thanks for any advice!
  • So I tried the voltage reading with the hoses disconnected and the reading stayed high (4,84volts) the GR/R showed -(neg).oo2V so apparently the dpfe is bad and I will try another hiss most expensive part as I remember. Might as well remove the egr valve itself while I am in there and give it a good cleaning. They seem difficult on the V8...would you know? I have got to remove the alternator because the bearings are going bad to have it rebuilt so I'll get back on this tomorrow...Thanks for the very good advise,
  • You are on the right track now. Your statement "When I read voltage between BR/LG and a ground point I get the same 4.84V i got when I read BR/LG and GR/R. (THIS ANSWERS YOUR QUESTION ABOUT THE WARM READING" I think you meant "read BR/LG and GY/R", is that right? We've got to be sure we keep the wire colors straight.
    If I understand what you said, that means that the GY/R wire is connected to ground, so that means the S166 connection must be a system common ground connected to the chasis ground.
    So, you are getting a high reading of 4.84V between the BR/LG and Ground, which is way too high at idle with the engine warm. This now leaves two posibilties, either the dpfe is malfunctioning OR the hose inputs to the dpfe are malfunctioning. By removing the hoses and therefore the differential pressure from the dpfe, you will be able to tell if the problem is in the dpfe itself, or in the inputs to the dpfe. If the volts drop down to less than 1 volt on the BR/LG wire with the dpfe hoses removed, you can assume the dpfe is good, then look for a clogged hose, clogged orifice, or leaking hose. If the volts stay high on the BR/LG wire, you can assume that the dpfe is bad and try another one. That's the best I can come up with for now.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • I checked the Haynes Manual against the Alldata info that I had been using, and I was surprised to find that there seems to be a conflict of information. The Haynes Manual says that the with the Engine COLD, the aluminum dpfe signal wire should read about .55V, and as the engine WARMS UP the voltage should increase to between 4 to 6 Volts. The alldata info was not clear about whether the volt reading was to be taken with engine cold or hot. So, the Haynes data seems to support that your 4.84V reading on the Sig wire is correct with the engine warm. What does the Sig wire volts read with the engine idling and cold? I would now advise that you check into more data sources to confirm how the dpfe volts are supposed to read.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • It appears they are both correct; the alldata as you say just does not explain the engine temp. Yes I mean the wire colors as you say. The Haynes manual does say that if the engine is at idle engine cold the voltage should be 1 for the plastic and .55 for the aluminum which I have. It appears I was connected adequately when cold and the voltage was high, Also when I disconnected the hoses when warm the voltage did not go down. It does appear the dpfe is bad . I also cchecked the hoses while disconnected and they appear to be passing well. On to a new dpfe it seems. Right now no chk engine light so I am going to recheck again and see if the voltages are back to normal brfore I get the new one. I will also check the voltage with a new one and if it isn't correct the search will start again :sick: I'll get it eventually
  • Why don't you check around and see if the dealer or anyone else has a way to test your dpfe? Most auto parts house can test ignition modules and things like that, so it wouldn't hurt to ask. I checked the price on the part down here, it goes for $49 at Autozone and $57 at Advanced Auto. It would be a good idea to test it if you could.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • Hi I too have the same problem, I have 1998 Ford Explorer Sport. Did you finally fix this problem? The noise is getting worse and its driving me insane Thanks!
  • Remove the Intake Air Tube and inspect it carefully inside and out. You may be able to see the problem once it is off.
  • I have an '02 Explorer. A coupld of weeks ago, the 4x4 High and 4x4 Low lights started blinking when I started up in the morning. They did NOT blink in unison, nor did they blink a specific number of times. They blink VERY fast and at VARIABLE rates (i.e., the rate keeps changing). Looked to me like some dampness might have gotten behind the dash and was causing false 'ON' statuses. In fact, after a few minutes, it DID stop. However, as times goes on, the flashing lasts longer throughout the day ... of course it is colder and wetter than a couple of weeks ago. I do not know how to determine for sure if it is in 4x4 high when I press that button. When I press 4x4 low, even at a dead stop, the light on the button flashes for a few seconds then stops without apparently going into 4x4 low. Does anyone have any ideas???
  • Tweedie,

    I believe it...

    I live 10 miles north of Boston and we have oak trees all around our house, driveway, etc. ... and I bought a 2007 Camry in May.

    When I first noticed the "dimples" I thought that they were water droplets or water spots. Then I took a closer look and saw 20 - 30 "dimples" all over my trunk and roof.

    I called the dealer where I bought it and they were sympathetic but couldn't help me because the problem was "environmental, like tree sap or hail."

    My feeling was B.S.! My wife and I have lived here for 14+ years; owned 6 different cars (most of them bought new)and never were any of them dented by acorns. So, I called Toyota USA in California and told them what was happening and they told me that they, "concurr with the decission of the dealer."

    Now I have a $20,000 car that I can't park in my driveway because of the falling acorns and I can't park in the street after Nov. 1 because of the winter parking ban. Maybe they'll let me park it in the dealer's lot and shuttle me back and forth every day so I can drive my car all the way to my job which is only .90 miles from my house!

    My campaign has only just begun! I will call the Attorney General's office here in Mass. tomorrow a.m. for advice.

    Have you had any luck with legal recourse against the dealer or with Ford Motor Co?

    Thanks for hearing me out.

    Jim W.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    You expect the Attorney General office to do.......

    If the acorns are truly a problem, they sell portable "tents" that you can park your car under. Set it up for the months the acorns are falling and take it down afterwards. It will cost you about $180 for a quality one.
  • Was the new 2002 Explorer equipped with spring blocks? If so, why, and what is the benefit, and what penalty or effect if they are removed?
    Does the spring blocking put the suspension in a different position (higher) and does this affect the shock damping rate, so that the small road bumps are accentuated?

    Thanks for input!
  • I park one of my Explorers under a 10' X 20' portable canopy, they are premanufactured from 2 inch pipe, have a silver and black tarp, look nice, and easy to put up. Mine is made by Insty-Shade, costs about $150 at a home building supply, I like the fact that the side rails are about 6 feet 4 inches about the ground so you can walk under it easily without having to duck or hitting your head. The Tarp is held to the frame by about 50 bungee cords, and is easy to take off and store should a hurricane threaten. They keep the acorns, sun and weather off the vehicle, making the original paint on a 12 year old Explorer still look good. In the winter, they even keep the morning dew from forming on the glass, even though it is parked outside, and other cars parked outside in the neighborhood are covered with morning dew.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    Thank you, ED. It is an easy solution. Why have your car sit under a tree with acorns and blame the manufacture for not making the paint and hood tough enough? Take some responsibility and resolve the situation yourself.
  • Just picked up a used "As-Is" Ford 99 Sport. Same problem. Called and spoke to service guy. Sounds like dealers are sending the radio units to these guys to fix. Mines on its way! :shades:
  • I have a 1999 Explorer XLT, 6.0 SOHC. Temp gauge is ALWAYS in the middle except this week. It is a little lower. Instead of being right in the middle of the temp icon, its now below it. Fine.

    However, today, after it hit the middle I turned on the heat and it plummeted down to barely 1/4 of the way (I watched it). I freaked. Turned off heat, and gauge went up a bit (not fully to middle). Is this serious? Diagnosis? HELP!!
  • It is not real serious yet, but getting close. That is a sign that your radiator and cooling system is not doing a good job. Get it checked at a shop soon, there may be blockage in the radiator or thermostat. The temp guage is not that accurate. If you want to know what the temp really is, get one of those infrared thermometers, they are getting cheap now at Harbor Freight. Use the infrared thermometer to measure the temps of the radiator and hoses, so you can see how hot it is really getting. You might need to get the radiator rodded out/cleaned and a new thermostat.
    Temp needs to stay around 190 to 200. If it gets over 210, it's too hot.
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