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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair



  • thanks i will try that
  • biomanbioman Posts: 172
    Another thing you might want to try is cleaning or replacing the EGR valve. If gets stuck open it will cause the stalling at idle. My 99 XLT had the same stalling at idle problem and the EGR fix did the trick. I removed the EGR Valve and cleaned it with some WD 40. There is no guarantee this will work, but give it a shot if the other suggestions do not work.
  • Thanks for the response. Have verified that the problem is the blend door. Either the circuit, actuator or door. Guess it will have to go to the dealer. Not concerned as much about the money as I am about how much damage they will cause while doing the job.

    Best regards

  • cwbkycwbky Posts: 2
    My explorer when idling, has a vibration coming from the engine. Its not real loud but it is at the same time. And u can feel it through out the floor board of the truck. ANyone have any suggestions :confuse:
  • I recently had the tensioner and pulley replaced on my 95 (145K miles). Mechanic claimed that battery went dead on them overnight and needed to be replaced as well. One week later, the engine intermittently but completely fails to accelerate when depressing accelerator to the floor. Sometime engine "kicks in," or simply dies and I have to restart while rolling in neutral. Can't get top speed over 60 mph, less going up hill. Took it to another mechanic (former dealership) who ran diagnostics, found nothing wrong, but suggested replacing fuel pump and cleaning injectors. Done. Still no improvement. Sometimes the engine "kicks in", otherwise just dies. :mad: Suggestions?
  • I have a 2000 Ford Explorer Eddie Baurer 4x4 SOH V6 with an electrical problem. It started with phones call at work from the wife saying the truck wouldn`t turn over, I`d come home and 75% of the time the truck would start with no problems. Thinking she might be losing her mind I blew it off but the problem got worse, so I had the battery and charging system checked and sure enough she was right. I replaced the battery and alternator, everything was great for a day. Today the battery gauge is dropping to around a 1/4 of the way from the bottom when the trucks at idle and the lights, radio and heat are on. Get on the gas and the gauge goes to the half way point. Now after searching the web I found a site talking about a " smart " charging system and a possible computer problem. Any of you heard of this or have any idea what might be the problem? Thanks for any help you can provide.
  • smokey75smokey75 Posts: 434
    My dad has a 2002 Ford Explorer & the O/D light started flashing this morning. The manual says it's a transmission problem & to take it in for service. It's not my car so I haven't kept up with this message board but does anyone know what it could be or common causes of it? He just had the fluid flushed recently.
  • I have a 1995 explorer controltrack 4x4 when i push on the brakes hard it feels like the peddel is pushing back up and it makes a humming sound i have put new lines and brake all around the car does anyone know what this could be ">
  • i have a 1995 explorer controltrack 4x4 when you put it in four wheel drive it makes a loud noise and the front wheel will not pull does anyone know what might be wrong
  • smokey75smokey75 Posts: 434
    Hey, thanks for the non-existent replies. Glad I have a Nissan & frequent their forums where people actually help each other. Oh, then again... owning a Nissan you don't have problems like this on a 5 year old car. I can't imagine why the "BIG 3" is a sinking ship...
  • vijavija Posts: 1
    Had ball bearings replaced,had an alignment done, but right tire is leaning inwards. Not sure if there has been damage.
  • Smokey75 -- I also had the flashing O/D light. I felt a clunk on morning, found my car would no longer shift gears, and saw the flashing light. I had to get my transmission rebuilt. I hope your luck is better.
  • I too have a blinking O/D light AND have had my transmission replaced to the tune of $2552!!! The light still flashes anyone know a remedy? I have also been told that my differential rod needs to be worked on anyone have a clue as to what that is?
  • tfmrtfmr Posts: 10
    Just to update you, I took my 2006 Explorer V6 in yesterday for 10000 mile service. They informed me that they got a TSB and that they need to reprogram the vehicle's computer. I asked them what it was about and they said something about delayed shifting and higher than normal RPMs. After programming, the shifting is much smoother and the whisting noise has not been as pronounced as before (probably because of the smoother RPMs). My theory is that because of the initial faulty gear shifting the serpentine belt got glazed (I baught it during the hot season), but the whisting/squealing noise from the slipping belt only apeared when temperatures dropped. I will have to take it back to replace the belt with a new one and see if this takes care of the noise when cold.
  • '98 Explorer XLT EB with 101K miles. 4WD High and Low lights blink 5-6 times a minute. Any ideas?
  • What you feel is the anti-lock brake activating. It should activate when you push the brakes hard. If you feel that it is activating too early, have the anti-lock brakes checked for codes and or adjustments.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • If the idling problem persists or returns, you may want to check/replace the idle air motor. It is located under the plastic shroud on top of the engine. Mine went bad two years ago and exibited the same symptoms before it died completely. I think it cost about $80 from the dealer.
  • Is it a vibration or a rattling noise? If it is really a rattling noise you may wish to inspect the various heat shields on the exhaust system. They are known to come loose and vibrate against the pipe. Loose heat shields can be secured using an appropriate sized stainless steel hose clamp. This is the reccomended fix from Ford for loose heat shields.
  • I need some help i have a 2000 explorer xlt 4.0 sohc automatic and it will shift 1 2and 3 really hard but tacks out 3rd at about 35 and causes temperature gauge to climb drastically. Also over drive light glitches and when i hit the over drive it makes the truck run even worse...not sure what is is...wether it is wiring...altenator...a servo or silenoid...or a band for those gears...need help asap still owe $9,000 to the bank and it wont drive....dont wana replace the tranny either becuase reading all the posts i dont think it is the whole tranny
  • Hi,
    When I attempted to start my suv this afternoon, I accidently didn't allow the engine to engage all the way before I let go of the key. I heard a loud "poof" sound. When I started the truck again, it began to sputter and there is a loud air sucking noise. I checked under the hood and the loud air sucking noise is coming from a gold spout on the rear drivers side part of the engine (i'm not sure what it's called). Could someone please provide me with the technical name for this. I'm assuming that a hose came loose, but I'm not sure where it went or where it should be connected to. Pictures would help if you have any. thanks very much for your help.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Perhaps a picture from you, showing what you are referencing, would be easier for people to then figure out. A "gold spout" doesn't do it for me.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    And an easy way to post your car pics is by setting up your CarSpace page.
  • i have a 2002 exp xlt. the o/d light was also blinking. and it wouldn't shift into 5th gear. so i had 2,600 dollars worth of trans work done and they replaced the selinoids, intermediate gears, torque converter, and some other things. the service engine light came back on a week later, and the nuetral switch was out of adjustment. and the diff problem: i replaced the diff in mine. the bering was shot which caused the gears to to rub wrong. it made such a loud noise! i would recomend if you have a rear diff problem to replace it w/ a used one. it was $500 bucks and wasn't that hard to install. just make sure that the gears/bearings are good in it!
  • akasoulakasoul Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Ford Explorer, 4WD, with about 65000 and I am having some troubles shifting from first to second, and second to third. The problem only occurs after a few minutes of driving. After the car has warmed up, it shifts hard from first to second and even harder from second to third. After about another 15 miles of driving, the 'Over
    Drive Off ' light starts blinking, and it starts shifting better, but slower. After my car is off for about an hour or so,it will shift normal again when I drive off (again, only for a few minutes.)

    Also, does anyone know where I can find the oxygen sensor on a 2000 explorer?
    PLEASE help!

    Thank you!
  • Hi all,

    I have a 2002 Ford Explorer Limited. The front door panels have a plastic wood grained decorative trim piece just below the window. The trim piece on both of the front doors is loose because the push in plastic plugs used to secure them have broken. I went to the local Ford dealer to get replacements and was told that the trim pieces are not sold separately and that I would have to buy a complete door panel. The trim piece would probably cost $30 or so but the complete door panel cost about $400.00. Has anybody run into the same problem and if so have you found a way to get a replacement trim piece.

    Any response would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Robert
  • akasoulakasoul Posts: 2
    You should try checking a junk yard for the piece. If they don't have just the piece, they can probably sell you the door panel for a lot less.
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 11,930
    since it is just a piece of trim, apply some loctite 'stick and seal'. roll the window down and use some padded clamps to hold it on(gently).
    i used that 'stick and seal' to bond a piece of trim for my liminate floor directly onto the concrete underneath. it is still solidly attached after 5 years.
    i have an '02 eb with the same trim?
    2017 Ford Fusion SE 2014 Ford F-150 FX4
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I haven't looked at my 04explorer, but I have just recently been under my 97 Suburban for the oxygen sensors. In the suburban, there is an O2 sensor in the pipe immediately before the catalytic converter, and another one after the catalytic converter.

    These things measure exhaust gases, so it has to be somewhere after the engine exhaust manifold, and before the catalytic converter (assuming it's a sensor-1 failure you have).

    My failure was a bank-2, sensor-2 failure so it was the one after the converter.
  • chandykchandyk Posts: 17
    99 Explorer XLT, 74K, all maintence up to date. Recently (3 months time frame) had IAC valve and O2 sensors replaced.

    When I'm outside of the Explorer and the engine is on, I hear a chirping / whirling noise. Not a fan belt noise, but I'm guessing it might be a belt??

    When I'm driving, I hear a clicking noise. Sounds like it is right behind the gauges / radio. It's not loud, but I definitely hear it. Could this be the same noise?

    Any help would be much appreciated.
  • chandykchandyk Posts: 17
    99 Explorer XLT. Wipers are starting to streak. Bought replacement ones (Rain X brand). However, they seem to be missing a piece that looks like a hook.

    a) can I take this hook off the existing pair?
    b) if no, what brand of wipers actually will work without extra parts?

    It should not be this difficult to change the wipers. I did it before, but it was a while ago.

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