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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair



  • aahz1969aahz1969 Posts: 1
    This sounds to me to be an Ignition control module problem. If you have replaced all the other components and are still experiencing the same symptoms then check to see if you have spark the next time it does this. If it does not then replace the control module.This unit works in series with your distributor to control your firing order as well as other key components of the ignition. I have had the same thing happen to me on other types of vehicles an this was the problem. Either that or it is the ignition coil or distributor pick up coils. Check to be sure that you have good connections there.
  • cverne22cverne22 Posts: 1
    I'm having the same problem with my explorer and i was wondering what you had to have done to get it fixed.
  • kerrydaykerryday Posts: 1
    I have this same problem with my 2003 Eddie Bauer Explorer. Did you ever get any help with this? Any help you could send my way would be very much appreciated.
  • kelmokelmo Posts: 1
    HELP my cd player has quit working----I believe it may be the homemade cd and label that is the problem-----but I can't get any cds to come out??? it will only say cd error----ugh!!!!! its a factory stereo and 04 explorer eddie bauerer!!!!

  • ddlong131ddlong131 Posts: 2
    Battery in 97 Explorer 5L AWD was near end of life, usually had to jump start it if left unused more than 48 hrs. I got it started and drove a few miles when things started shutting down, battery gauge dropped and battery light came on. Engine died shortly. Friendly motorist offered a jump, wouldn't start. Discovered cables were reversed, tried again, still wouldn't start. Towed home, replaced battery. Now car starts but battery gauge still low and battery light still on.
    Questions are: 1) once running, shouldn't engine be self-sustaining despite condition of battery? and 2) what was likely damaged due to reversed jumper cables?
    Should my next step be to replace the alternator, or are there other easier and less expensive things to check first?
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    IF the alternator is ok, yes, the car should run the same regardless of battery condition. IF the alternator is dying, or damaged due to reverse connections, which is VERY hard on every microprocessor in the car - the car will fail with a bad battery. I would change the alternator and the regulator out, as well as the battery.
  • Gentlemen,I have a 1998 Ford Explorer,2by4,6 cylinder 4.0, An ac tech says their is no compressor problems,he cant find any leaks,but after charging the system,4 days later it blows hot air,then maybee go cold for a little while,then back to hot air,any repair solutions? thank you
  • Go find a better tech.
    I could go into long explainations about what it might be, but what is really needed is a good professional diagnosis, I would need information such as high and low pressure readings at idle and at 1500 rpm, vent temps under varying conditions, and temperatures of the lines at various points, and is the compressor staying on or kicking on and off. Without being there and touching and feeling it, I would need a lot of information that you probably can't provide over the internet. It is best for you to take it to a pro that knows what he is doing.
  • truth2229truth2229 Posts: 1
    Are you braking when turning? If so the problem could have to do with the master cylinder and the brake booster module (leaking seals and O-rings) this problem is common on other large SUV'S like the Tahoe and Yukon. If I were you I would take it to a reputable repair shop and get them to put it on a lift and check the CV joints and tie rod ends and look for suspension play. It is normal to here a little clunk when your steering wheel is completely turned to the left or right and you don't have to be moving to here that, But if you are hearing the clunk with out moving the steering it could just be your tranny try driving your vehicle up to 60kmph or 30mph and start braking if you hear a loud clunk every time you brake and your tranny shifts out of driving gear your problem is probably your transmission it just may need to be serviced like bands adjusted and so forth or could be a sign that its on its way out. I hope this helps
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    I agree with you, ED, it also sounds like an expansion valve problem too, don't you think? Could be?
  • mtnman1mtnman1 Central OhioPosts: 431
    I bought a Mountaineer V8 AWD new back in 2004 from a Lincoln Mercury Dealership that's near my Home. I've had most all my maintenance issues and a couple of warranty issues taken care of there and all my records are in their database. I had built a good relationship with the Service Manager and he has taken care of a couple of small problems after my warranty ran out at no charge. I called yesterday to schedule an Oil change and I got a message stating that after 40 some years they have closed. All my records and the relationship I've built with the service department are history. Now I've got to find some place else to have my maintenance taken care of, but the chances of them taking care of a problem such as with the transmission for free or at a reduced charge are probably zero.
    2012 Highlander Limited AWD V6 and 2015 Ford Fusion Hybrid SE
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Not so - everything they did for you should be in the Oasis database on the car with Ford/Lincoln-Mercury at any dealership. Fret not.
  • mtnman1mtnman1 Central OhioPosts: 431
    I thought there would be a database as well. I called another Dealer on the other side of town a Service Manager said any warranty work would be available, but not routine maintenance records.
    2012 Highlander Limited AWD V6 and 2015 Ford Fusion Hybrid SE
  • Yes, it could be an expansion valve, the explorer uses an orifice tube in place of an expansion valve, both acomplish the same thing, control the flow of liquid refrigerant from the High Side Pressure into the Low Side Pressure.

    And it could be a lot of other thngs, air and moisture in the system can cause an ice particle to form at the cold end of the orifice tube, temporarily blocking the orifice tube, or the system could have a leak and the refrigerant charge is low causing the compressor to cycle on and off frequently. Test the system with the AC on MAX COOL and the Blower on High, vehicle parked in the the shade with the windows up, and a dial type thermometer stuck in the center discharge vent of the dash. Once the AC cools down, it should blow 55 degrees or cooler out the vent and below 50 degrees driving down the road. Mid forties degrees is considered a very good discharge temperature when the outside air is in the 90's. And what about the rest of the system, is the accumulator very old (over 5 or 6 years) it could be saturated and release small amounts of moisture or deribis (that is why it is always recommended to replace the accumulator any time any major component is replaced). And what about the condenser, is it clean and have good air flow through it? What about the fan and fan clutch, are they working properly? Belt tight? Radiator temp should be normal, not hot. The liquid line going from the condenser to the orifice tube should feel warm to the touch, not hot, not cool. The line coming out of the evaporator and the accumulator should feel cold, and if the charge is good, the line from the accumulator to the compressor should be cold all the way to the suction port of the compressor. A system that is working correctly will have pressures approximately as follows:
    At idle Low Side 30 lbs, going down to about 22 lbs, then compressor cycles off (at idle, it may not be able to pull down to 22 pounds and cycle off if it's very hot outside, unless the system is very strong).
    At idle High Side about 225 lbs.
    At 1500 RPM Low Side 25 lbs, going down to 22 lbs, then compressor cycles off.
    At 1500 RPM High Side 235 to 245. Make sure you have good air flow through the condenser coil.
    There is much more to check than I have included in this basic primer. You can also gather much useful information by measuring the line temperatures with an infared thermometer, I find that very useful, but the most useful information is measuring the pressures, feeling the line temps, measuring the Vent temp and checking for refrigerant leaks.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. ISF
  • My 97 Explorer driver seat will not move in the reverse mode. All others forward up down and recline work but it will not go back. What can I do?
  • fred83fred83 Posts: 1
    I have a strange problem with my power windows sometime they work fine . then for no reason they stop working , and start working again for no apparent reason. I and find no fuse for them anywhere, have ckd every other fuse I can find even ones under the hood all good. have taken switches out checked them all seem to be good. checked with a voltage mtr. the only place I get 12vts. is at the door locks. not on any of the other switches including window lock swth.
    help where do I turn ?????
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    More than likely your seat track is worn out. Lubricating may get you some time out of it, but eventually replacement will be necessary of just the track. I'd do it now IIWM.
  • mvc2mvc2 Posts: 2
    I'm in the market for an SUV and I've narrowed my choices down to two vehicles (02 Explorer limited vs. 01 Grand Cherokee Limited). I am extremely interested in both and they both feature the V8 engines with about 80k miles. Both have leather, power everything, etc. etc.. The Explorer has 20" rims and the Jeep has a 4" lift kit with over sized tires. Both are in immaculate condition appearance-wise. Both these vehicles are private owners, not a dealership so no warranty would be involved.

    Besides the usual test drive (they both drive great), I did take them into a mechanic to inspect them. Fortunately they're both mechanically sound.

    I don't feel like jumping through hoops for the bank and have to make payments so I plan on paying cash for one of these two SUV's which I've worked really hard for.

    My question is; Given you're knowledge of the two make and models, which one would most likely give me the least problems (mechanically) approaching 90k to 150k miles?
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    In my experience, it's kind of a toss up. They are both excellent trucks. The Explorer is a tougher truck, being built on a steel frame, the Jeep is a Unibody. Weak spots on the Explorer would likely be the transmission and minor features inside the truck. Weak spots on the Jeep will be engine cooling, air conditioning and exhaust system.

    Get the one you like best - either will serve you well.
  • I have a 2006 ford explorer which has an external temperature indicator on the dashboard, it was working fine until 2 days back it stopped working, the reading was stuck to 23 degrees celsius. Can someone tell me where can I find the exact location of the external temperature sensor/probe? I am thinking that it may only be loose connections or dirty sensors. THANKS.....
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Ok, the good news is, it's easy to find. The bad news is, it's hard to reach.

    Look inside your grille with a flashlight on the driver's side. Protruding out of a plastic spacer panel just in front of the condenser with a little pointed screw in device is your external sensor. I can see no way to get to it without taking out the grille. I'd tap it rather aggressively and test. Remember that reading changeouts take time, and move a couple of degrees at a time usually. If this doesn't fix it, power down the car by pulling a battery cable for a few minutes, then reconnect. This may reboot it for you. If that fails, you need a new sensor and will have to replace that little bugger. Not expensive, just a pain to get to, only because the grille is fixed in place and not attached to the hood. Design.

    Good luck, with this. ;)
  • for those of you who have the O/D light flashing on and yourselves a favor and just replace the trans with a new or rebuilt model. stay away from junkyards. i have a 96 eddie bauer 4.0 auto and its on its 4th trans. the 1st was replaced by the original owner and the others by me. the 2nd trans got stuck in reverse. the 3rd i bought for 500 from a junkyard and after about 56 months it had cost me 1000 in repairs. once that light flashes its over. it could be valve guides, seleniods, clutch packs, sensors, wires or a combination. explorer transmissions are horrible and the only reason i keep my truck is its not worth any money and selling it would put me in a bigger hole
  • its had electrical problems mostly exterior lighting. ive had to reroute the headlights and foglights into 2 additional switches. right now the problem im dealing with is the a/c is stuck on defrost. i understand thats the default for a vacuum leak but would that be under the hood or dash and also passenger or driver side. thanks!--josh
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    explorer transmissions are horrible

    Not really back in those years, they would go a good 100,000 without any problems if they were serviced. My 94 went 140,000 with no issues at which point I gave the truck away, it could still be running for all I know. But when you buy one from a junkyard, you never know.

    The newer 5 and 6 speed trannys do have their issues, mostly with programming, but you can encounter some interesting complications with those.

    You are correct about the O/D light though - if yours starts flashing, you're done for, head for the nearest dealer!!!
  • I have a 2005 Explorer that had 43,000 miles. The O/D light came on. You are correct. I ended up spending $2100 on a rebuilt transmission a few weeks ago. I am trying to get Ford Customer Service to address this issue however I see it is going to be an uphill battle. Of course it is out of warranty and no recalls. I had a 1998 Ford Explorer, traded at 65,000 miles and had no problems with the SUV so that is why I bought another. This will be the last Ford product I ever purchase. :mad:
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    This will be the last Ford product I ever purchase

    Well that's too bad, because Ford has some excellent product out there these days. Explorer transmissions however, aren't really on that list.......
  • of all the research ive done and people ive talked to, ive found that the 95-96 4.0 transmission is the worst. 91-93 not so bad, 94s just stop working, 97 was changed to five speed auto in order to deal with the additional power of the 4.0sohc engine. and after that ford has made various changes over the years. they just cant get it right lol
  • i will say outside the trans and elecrical my explorer is ok to drive. it gets 18.2mpg on average which is about average with the 4:10 rearend. its got 280,000 miles and for every 80,000 i go it needs a transmission. i love the engine though weak it may be, its a very simple design and easy to work on.
  • egyptgerryegyptgerry Posts: 22
    Hi Guys,Well here in the Uk i have a 97model that has been converted to run on Liquid petroleum gas,LPG cost wise i get around double the miles for the same price as a gallon of Petrol,But sad to say i have lost D1,and it is a right pain as parts here are a little thin on the ground and buying second hand you never know what you are getting,The vehicle as only done 76.000 miles,Looks like a common fault with this box,Gerry Uk
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    94s just stop working

    My 94 ran 140,000 miles with routine maintenance every 30,000 miles, no problem. It was probably the best out of the 7 Explorer/Mountaineers I've owned....
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