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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair



  • im not saying 94s are bad, i said of the research ive done ive found that the 94 usually gives no warning of a transmission failure. it just stops working
  • mshillmshill Posts: 3
    In neutral engine idles well and responds well when accelerator is depressed. Engaged in any gear, engine idles well, but will die when accelerator is depressed. This started suddenly at a traffic signal; there was no prior warning indicating a problem.

    Trouble code P1451 is displayed in scanner (EVAP control system vent control valve circuit malfunction). It was suggested that the cause could be a vacuum leak, but none has been located. Too, the "operational data" from the scanner says, "Fuel System 1, Open Loop (det)." The manual for the scanner says this should be a "closed loop" situation.

    Does anyone have any ideas about possible causes that I can address, before surrendering and taking this beast to a shop?

    mike hill
  • I have a 2002 Mercury Mountaineer. I am having a big problem with the car alarm. When you lock your car the alarm will start going off about an hour later, even if there is no one at it. at first it just went off once in a while and now it goes off at least 3 times a day if not more. How do I fix it?
  • sacowboysacowboy Posts: 2
    Does anyone out there really have any clue as to why Explorer's so often have erratic idle, starting and engine dying (for no apparent reason) problems? It seems to me that there must be some "VERY GIFTED FORD MECHANIC" out there who could offer some solid advice on the root cause for most of these issues. I've never read of or talked to anyone who ever eliminated or even helped the problem by changing the Idle Air Control Valve, or any of the other most often mentioned replacement parts to solve the issue including myself. I'm only now learning about the magical VZV valve and Fuel Cell Cannister inside the gas tank. Could this be a common cause to the Explorer's erratic idle and dying engine problems? If you fixed your erratic idle/engine dying problem, please let me know what you did.......
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    I have had 7 Mountaineer/Explorers, one of which I drove 140,000 miles, and have never had this problem. Not once. I have to deduce from that it is not common and in isolation, would be hard to diagnose here. Or, in other words, I have no clue..... :confuse:
  • got the a/c problem taken care of, it was a round sphere vacuum under the air intake. one of the two lines running into it was broken and i never saw it hidden under everything, also i have fixed(for now) my irradic idle. i took it down and had fuel injector cleaner ran through. ive never seen any car pour out that much smoke and i can feel the improvement in driving. i recomend trying that to at least help with the idle problems its cheap to do and interesting to watch
  • Hopin someone can answer this. My dad's 95 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer is having a problem with the blower. The blower runs regardless if the car is on or off. He pulled the relay hoping to fix the problem and it continues to blow. He is stumped, any ideas on what the problem could be?
  • Shorted Blower Resistor or Shorted Blower Switch
  • i had to use a screwdriver on my new solenoid to start it. i just bought the explorer and the old solenoid looked new too. i was wondering if maybe some wires are crossed or something or anything else??
  • Hi movieguns,

    I was searching for this problem on the web and came across this posting. I am having the same problem and am wondering if you ever were able to determine the problem.

  • dlw4dlw4 Posts: 2
    I had exactly the same problem with my '99 Explorer. This is very common on the Explorers from that era. The wire bundle that runs into the front of the drivers door has a lot of wires in it and they must bend very sharply every time you open & close the door. Your can take the rubber boot loose that covers the wires and you will likely find the power wire for the windows is broken. I just put a splicer on mine and it's been fine for over a year now.
  • 2005 Explorer with 105,000. MEssage center flashes "Check Charging System" with a tone and the battery icon lights for just a second. Started doing this once every couple of days, then every day and now multitimes when I drive it. Started during acceleration over 3000 RPM and now any thing over 2000 RPM just cruising on flat highway. The lights don't dim, the volt meter does not drop and the A/C seems to function fine. Alternator going bad or Battery?
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 11,930
    went in for 85k oil change/tire rotation. they told me it need both rear wheel bearings replaced. how do i tell? i haven't noticed any noises other than sometimes the read axle whines at times. i think it was just a slow day for the mechanics.
    2017 Ford Fusion SE 2014 Ford F-150 FX4
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    It's your alternator, I would change it quickly.
  • ajmtbmajmtbm Posts: 245
    few months ago i had a tire that lost air, i pumped nit up was good for a couple of days and lost air again. brought it to where i purchased the tires, they found nothing wrong, replaced the stem and all was well until now, about 7 months later.

    they tell me the rim is rusting form the inside out. its a 2002 with the optional chrome wheels. they said i would need to find someone who can recoat the inside of the wheel. ive never needed to do something like this. any help would be appreciated.
  • I had the same problem a few years ago with a explorer,So had a tyre fitter remove the lyres,then i just wire or steel wooled the inside of the rims,you can do it with a sanding disc,once you clear all the rust out and i dont think you will find a lot i just spray painted the inside edges of the rims and to make sure when the tyres where refitted at the garage i had some tubes fitted,Never had a problem since and the Guy i sold it to has never had a problem either,This is something you can do yourself over a weekend.Regards Gerry
  • I have a 99 with the 5.0 L engine, 89K miles. Trans has been serviced and problem free. The last 10K I've noticed a slight "slip" when in OD and accelerating between ~ 40 to 55 mph, just below what is required to downshift. Anyone have this problem or ideas on cause? I'm thinking I'll just keep it out of OD unless I'm on the highway. Is this a sign of a major problem?
    I bought this truck new, and overall the truck has been very reliable, but I'm wondering if it is time to sell it.
  • I have a coolant leak and it looks like it is coming out of the oil pan - Is that possible ? Somebody hinted to me that Ford may recirculate the coolant near the oil to help cool the engine. The hoses are all fine and the top of the engine is dry.

    Also - If the oil pan can be removed easily or does the transfer case need to be removed as well ?
  • Hi there,If you had coolant coming out of the oil pan then you would have a head gasket gone,But as you are driving the ford then 1 question comes to mind?have you been driving the ford with the aircon on max as some times ice will form on the pipe work and then melt and leave a pool on the floor,If it is not this then somewhere you have a hose or possibly a steel pipe that has a hole,Only way to find that would be to get the Ford onto a lift and really look for it,sorry i cant be of more help,Regards Gerry
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    If it hasn't been serviced with a power flush in the last 10,000 miles, I would have it done. IF that doesn't fix the problem, your strategy may be good. There is probably some wear going on, but it doesn't mean you're toast yet. It may run a long time like this if you are careful with it.
  • Easy solution for tire rims leaks:

    I have been doing the following proceedure to all my vehicles, all brands with all type tires for many years. I have never had a problem with slow leaks/rim leaks again.

    You need to do this with an air compressor and tire filling hose or near an air pump. It is best to roll the vehicle so that the tire valve stem is located at about the 9 o'clock or 3 o'clock position. This will allow you good working room for the proceedure.
    One tire at a time, SLOWLY & CAREFULLY remove the tire valve stem core with a valve stem core removal tool (cheap). HOLD ONTO the valve core very carefully so that it doesn't blow away, keep it in your hand, and let all the air come out of the tire. Then take a Large can of WD-40 spray oil or similar substance with the red plastic "straw" on it, stick the straw down about 2 inches down into the valve stem, HOLD the "straw" tightly so it doesn't fall down into the inside of the tire, and holding the WD-40 can upright, spray oil into the inside of the tire for about 20 to 30 seconds. Then remove the "straw" and reinsert the valve core firmly, and refill the tire with air to the correct tire pressure. Do this to all tires, then take it for a short drive to spread the film of oil around inside the tires and rims. This has worked perfect for me for at least 15 years, has had NO detrimental effect on the tires or rims, and the tire balance remains the same and the tires ride smooth. When new tires are put on, the "fresh" rubber usually seals very good, but as time goes by the rubber starts to harden and the rim can start to rust under the rubber and cause seepage. The oil will prevent the rust and form a perfect seal. I would usually do this when the tires are about halfway through their life and/or when I have to add air to the tires between oil changes (7,500 mile intervals). The tire pressure should drop no more that 4 pounds during this 7,500 mile interval, from 32 psi down to 28 psi. If it drops more than that, I add the spray oil to the tires, end of problem.
    Hope this helps.
    E.D. ISF
  • was leaving work engine started and wan fine and performed well. about 15 miles later at a red light went to accelerate and had little performance. engine and truck immediatly became very shaky and hesitant sometimes engine dies. took to autozone ran codes and came out with misfire in cylinder # 2 and # 3. also fuel pressure low on bank 1 and 2. catylist defishency. replaced all spark plugs and wires everything gapped at .55 ive ruled out the coil pack because coil is the spark waste system and 2 and 3 dont run together. my next move was to have the fuel injectors cleaned and fuel filter replaced. any additional advice would be apreciated truck is a 1996 with 4.0 pushrod engine. personally im suspecting dirty fuel because i live in houston and ike just came through so maybe picked up some bad gas getting some trash in the injectors?
  • Don't rule out the solenoid pack in the transmission. You can read my plea for help, post 6102. I also live in Houston, but it wasn't bad gas. In my case the car is throwing about 15 codes. I was originally told the transmission codes were the result of whatever else was wrong. The problem has now been identified as the shift solenoid (stuck in 3rd gear), but there are 4 solenoids in the transmission, and they all must be changed. The transmission problem is what is causing all the other codes. I hate that car.
  • turns out the wires to the coil pack were frayed and were shorting out thus throwing the codes. fuel injectors were fine but had them cleaned anyways. new fuel filter and went to a junkyard and gotta coil pack for $45 and included with it was an extra sensor pkug wires and clips with heat sheilds and the main bracket( didnt need any of it but what the hell) the only code its running now is an o2 sensor. also bought an obdII off ebay for $50. milade is back up to 17.7 and i feel for u with the transmission. i am on my 3rd. if u wanna rebuilt one for a reasonable price call greenleaf. they can find u one for about 800 and that comes with a 6 month warrenty. i can also recomend a good trans mechanic. he will install it for 250 and if it doesnt work he will either fix the trans or have another put in from greenleaf free of charge. i recomend him because if it has electrical problems (soloniods) he will get it working. my new one had problems in #2 soloniod it was extremely sluggish . im on month 6 without a compliant
  • prubboprubbo Posts: 1
    My shift broke off too. When you installed your original steering wheel on the 5L2Z-3C529-A, did it fit correctly? Was there enough length on the splined shaft to mount the steering wheel correctly?

    I received a used steering column from the junk yard. Everything looked the same as the original except the shaft only protruded out 1/4" while my original column's shaft protruded 3/4". There was not enough lenght on the shaft to mount the steering wheel. :mad:
  • Hi prubbo, paul7281 here.
    My original steering column-part number was 4L2Z-3C529-DA, I replaced it with this part 5L2Z-3C529-A, and it was new from Ford out of the box. I don't know how much shaft protruded out of the column, but my original steering wheel did fit correctly. prubbo, you did not pull the steering column your self?? Do you know if it's out of a 2002-2004 Ford Explorer or Ford Mountaineer?? Did you see this part number 5L2Z-3C529-A, on the steering column or just on the junk yard invoice?? There is something suspect about the steering column you received. If you have a 2002 Ford Explorer this 5L2Z-3C529-A, steering column and your original steering wheel should fit! Go to your local ford parts dealer with the steering column and steering wheel and ask ford's part dealer why it will not fit? paul...
  • dlw4dlw4 Posts: 2
    Since winter is about upon us, the rear window defogger on my '99 Explorer has decided not to work. No light on the little switch when you push it, so I assume it's not working. Is there a fuse for this thing? My Chilton's book doesn't even mention the rear defogger, so not much help. Anyone?
  • Paul7281...Fordsrus2 here...
    Any advice or tips on removing the shifter linkage from column on 96 ford explorer. I have a part somewhere on the shifter linkage rod broken and need to remove in order to repair...any advise would be appreciated...tx
  • Any advice or tips on removing the shifter linkage from steering column on 96 ford explorer. I have a part somewhere on the shifter linkage rod broken and need to remove in order to repair...any advise would be appreciated...tx
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