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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair



  • So, to follow up on my own post ...

    I checked all the fuses, that was not the issue, so I decided to check behind the dash to see if it was a loose connection or something that i could possibly fix.

    When I got in there, I saw that eight of the wires connected to the instrument cluster had been cut ... in two places. :mad: Now, for the life of me, I cannot figure out how those eight wires could be cut in two places (one of which was right at the back of the plug) exactly at the same time (as all the instruments were working before). I fixed the problem (instruments wrk now), but I'm following up with the Bureau of Automotive Repair. I took photos and videos of the damage.
  • I find that absolutely amazing. It certainly seems that it could not be simply a coincidence that the dash lights quit working when you took it in to have the air intake fixed, especially later finding the wires were cut behind the dash. It sounds fishy and suspicious. You did a good thing to document the damage. Hopefully you will get justice for what happened to you.
  • Yesterday I tried to turn my lights on. When i used the knob to turn them on only the parking lights came on. I checked the fuses and they are fine. What could be the problem? :(
  • 1. Repair or replace faulty or burned out headlamp bulbs.
    2, Repair or replace faulty headlight relay.
  • I have a 99 Explorer with the 5.0L engine, right at 100K. I bought this truck new and it has been a really good vehicle, I plan to hand it down to my teenage son this summer. I have an issue I've had for several years and it appears to be getting a little worse. The engine start just fine when cold, usually within 1 sec. It also starts just fine after warmed up if its started within about 10 min of when it has last been run. However, it I go to start it say between 10 to 45 min of when it was last run, it takes a bit of cranking to start say between 3 to 4 secs. It almost kind of reminds me of a "vapor lock" that I experience with my 2 stroke outboard. Any ideas of what this could be? Any simple things to try? Obviously I don't want to pay someone a bunch of cash to root around to try and figure this out.
  • My 2000 5.0L engine has always acted the same way, bought used in 2005. It now has 175,000 miles. It has never been a problem, it always starts. If you maintain regular scheduled maintenance, such as new spark plugs, new spark plug wires, ect, it should be ok. You could also check for any vacuum leaks or egr problems, if it idles smooth, it is probably fine. My battery died a few months ago, I replaced it with a new powerful battery, rated at 850 CCA. The original battery is rated at 650 CCA. If your charging system is working well and you maintain a powerful battery in your vehicle, you won't have a problem.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. in Sunny Florida
  • sohcdonaldsohcdonald Posts: 2
    edited February 2010
    I have a 2000 Explorer XLT V6 SOHC 4wd which I purchased new in March of 2000, (St. Louis plant mfr.) I have very low mileage (22,100) and I have had no sign of a timing chain tensioner problem. However, after just recently reading this forum about this problem, I am worried that it will happen to me and there will be no warranty. I NEVER RECEIVED A NOTICE from Ford concerning this problem---ever. The only recall I received was for Firestone tires and the speed control problem, which were both resolved. My questions are: Do I have a recourse against Ford if I need to replace the tensioners? Are there any other 2000 Explorers out there that haven't had the tensioner problem with their SOHC engine? When can I expect a problem? Should I have the work done before symptoms show up? What are the risks of extensive engine damage if I wait for the symptoms?
  • alman08alman08 Posts: 282
    Hi everyone, need help!

    2002 Explorer 4.6L V8.

    I'm trying to replace the EGR valve pressure sensor and took me long enough to locate it (it's sitting by the firewall, right in the center). I found it nearly impossible to get to it without removing the black engine cover. I only found 2 nuts to unscrew on the cover (located towards the front of the engine), and after I took the nuts out, I still couldn't remove the cover. There has to be something else holding the cover in place towards the rear on the cover but I couldn't locate it. I didn't want to yank the cover too hard fear that I might break something. Can someone please show me how to remove the engine cover properly? Thanks.
  • alman08alman08 Posts: 282
    nevermind the engine cover... I know the setup now. 2 nuts in the front and 2 balls snap-on type in the rear. got the cover off, however, I can't get the old sensor out from the 2 tubes :sick:
  • Has anyone ever added a cabin air filter to a 2006-2010 Explorer? I know it does not come with one.
  • Can anyone tell me the location of the cam sensor on a 2000 ford exolorer 5.0 engine any diagrams would be helpful

  • I have a 1998 ford explorer, 4.0L engine that occasional will not start when hot. Engine will start to run and than fail. After an hour it will than start and will not have the problem for up to month. No error codes: replace fuel filter and pump relay.
    What could be causing this?
  • tothemaxx2tothemaxx2 Posts: 22
    edited April 2010
    2006 Ford Explorer XLT 4.0 V6. I am trying to find the OBD-II connector. The Haynes manual says under the left side of the dash, but I can find it nowhere. Any one know?
  • Have you checked to see if you have spark from the coil by grounding the lead to the frame? If you don't have spark, it could be the electronic control module (ignition module) or the coil itself. These tend to fail and can cause intermittent problems like yours.
  • I check the plugs and they have a spark, engine start for a second or two, than die
  • yv1mdyv1md Posts: 1
    Hey there, I have the same vehicle doing the same exact thing when putting into reverse, if you don't mind, what was your fix and how much was it. I am getting ready to take the car into the transmission shop on Monday by advice of my regular mechanic. Thanks
  • mfedmfed Posts: 1
    2004 with 53,000 miles. Dealer said the solenoid pack needed replacement. Estimate was $895. Took it to a local 3rd generation tranny shop who has an outstanding reputation. Agreed it may be solenoids. $350. They drove it for 2 days after repair and said it was better but still happened when the vehicle was on an incline. Same things I noticed. Pulled and rebuilt the tranny. Said there was excessive wear at the servo bore which caused low hydraulic pressure. New solenoids probably masked the problem slightly. Trans now shifts better than new. Now I get to deal with the dealer over timing chain tensioner rattle at 2800 rpms. I would find a highly rated trans shop that you can trust and avoid the dealer unless you really trust them. They are just going to use what the Ford TSB is going to tell them. Good luck!
  • fidterryfidterry Posts: 1
    edited May 2010
    I have a 2000 Ford Explorer Eddie Baur.
    Periodically the tac will work, most of the time it does not. When the tac is not working, the display on the radio does not work. When the tac works, the display on the radio works.

    Any ideas/suggestions?

    Thank you

    Sorry folks, I thought I was adding a new thread.
  • fowlerrofowlerro Posts: 1
    Hello this is my first post and boy do I need help :confuse:

    I have a 2002 ford explorer that cuts off and wouldnt start back up. The fuse in slot 41 blows and I have to replace it and it start up . what does that fuse belong to ?
  • gyatesgyates Posts: 55
    Are you still having the hot start issue? Could be the coolant temp sensor.
  • mcmurrerdmcmurrerd Posts: 2
    I have a 1994 explorer and the camshaft position sensor is bad and I am told they are no longer available. I can't seem to find a rebuilt one does any one have any suggestions. Thanks
  • When I accelerate I feel a slight "rubbing/grinding" sensation in the steering wheel and gas pedal. I feel it right around 2000rpm and its most apparent in 2nd and 3rd gear. If I let off the gas, its gone. And I cannot feel it on the highway cruising along. Just during acceleration. Its a V8 AWD model. Anyone experience this?

  • dave293dave293 Posts: 1
    I have a 1994 Ford Explorer Limited.
    One day it will start, the next, it won't.
    I and a friend believe it is a fuel delivery problem as he couldn't hear the fuel pump prime up when the ignition was turned on (had his ear close to gas tank) and when you give it a little starting fluid, it attempts to fire but won't, so we belive it's getting spark.
    It dosn't even ATTEMPT to fire when it won't start, but when it DOES start, it fires right off the bat and runs & drives fine, no missing, no bogging, no hesitations, etc.
    Fuel pump? Fuel pump relay? Filter? I always believed that a fuel pump is either dead or alive, NOT intermitent. True?
    Like the tree said to the lumberjack, I'm STUMPED!
  • klaningklaning Posts: 2
    really need truck just started one day hesitating like it wants to stall out but it doesnt. it just runs like crap. When idling over 2 it shakes, as it drops under 1 it gets really bad. so i changed the plugs and wires, not the problem. i change the fuel filter, still nothing. i also cleaned the terminals. Sometimes while im driving the battery light keeps coming on and says CHECK CHARGING SYSTEM. Ive had the battery and alternator tested, both are good.
  • Voltage regulator?
  • klaningklaning Posts: 2
    can i just replace the voltage regulator? i had the alternator tested, it was fine...idk much about the voltage regulator
  • I had a similar problem with my mercedes.. The alternator and battery tested fine so the mechanic replaced the voltage regulator and solved the problem. Nice an cheap too. I would thing the explorer has to have one as well.
  • I have 2002 Explorer with 165k miles. Went in to replace front brake pads. Am being told I need to replace both upper ball joints and both hub assemblies, adding $1500 to repair. Is this a likely area of wear? If were to just replace the pads, what considerations should I be weighing? Am thinking it might be time to scrap the car but hate to let it go as it still runs well.
  • nutter88nutter88 Posts: 2
    i have a 2000 ford explorer sport with vin (x) ohv 4.0. i have cleaned the (iac) intake air control. still may have a possibility of it being bad. i have tested the mass flow air sensor. im throwing a code which is an o2 sensor saying it is running lean in bank 1. the air box is very loud and vibrates, and most the time it wont rev over 2500 rpm while in park. i would like some suggestions. thank you. i have jus redone the the gaskets from the heads up because of a bad head gasket also. i had to get a new egr tube , and a egr air control sensor. the egr i got is from a bit older 4.0 and the vacuum is in a different location i wouldnt know if that matters. thanks again
  • nutter88nutter88 Posts: 2
    that does seem possible with them miles . the hub assyembly has sealed bearings in it so they can cost a pretty penny. upper ball joints you can check by lifting the front end off the ground and seeing if you can wiggle the wheel up and down
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