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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair



  • griz9griz9 Posts: 1
    Just bought a 2005 Ford Explorer XLT and I am having issues with the keyless entry pad on the drivers door. With the car locked it only takes one button to unlock the car with the pad, three of the five work with just one press. I tried to disconnect the battery to reset it to the factory code, I have tried to follow the instuctions to erase persoal code and nothing is working. Any ideas how I can fix this??
  • I have a 2005 Ford Explorer XLT. My battery died. When I tried to start the car the airbag and Advance Trac warning lights came on. Once I got a boost and was able to replace the battery the Advance Trac Warning Light continues to stays on. This warning light was not on prior to the bad battery. According to the manual it says when this warning light comes on get it serviced immediately. Could this problem be caused by changing the battery? Can this warning light be reset without servicing? I turned off the Advance Trac button inside the SUV but the warning light still stays on. Don't want to get scammed in spending a lot of money to service this "problem".
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 12,680
    If you have the owner's manual, try to figure out what fuse is connected to Advance Trac, then check the fuse for continuity.
    All that means is that if the fuse is ok, your tester will make a tone.
    If you don't have a tester, you can get one at radio shack for about $20.
    2017 Ford Fusion SE 2017 Ford F-150 Limited
  • Thanks for the information. I will give it a try. Hopefully it is just a bad fuse.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    I'm thinking you have a fault caused by a power surge when the new battery was hooked up. I would disconnect the negative terminal again, wait 10 seconds, make sure all accessories in the car are OFF, and reconnect. All of your lights should now stay off when the car is started, and you're fixed. However, if not, you're going to need service, assuming the fuses are indeed all good.
  • Can anybody tell me where can I buy the door armrest cover ( front & rear) for ford explorer 2006. Thanks!
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Your dealer can order them, usually overnight.
  • riprripr Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 explorer 4x4, when driving under normal conditions it seems when the transmission gets warmed up it starts to knock and loose power. if I take it out of D and put in P or N the noise goes away, I put in gear the knock comes back and an a burning odor like a cluch plate burning. if left alone it the truck will die and will not start. I go back a couple of hours later the truck will start and I was able to drive the short distance home.

    Any Ideas of where to start, the fluid is not low nor does it really look burnt. When the tranny is cold it seems to shift just fine and operate just fine. I would say warm up time is about 20 min of driving.

    Thank you in advance for any guidance
  • This morning my engine began making a noise so I immediately took it to my mechanic. I drove 2-3 miles total and did not go over 30mph. He said that somehow I had run out of oil (possibly very low) so he did an oil change. He said it was still making the noise because the lifters (?) did not have oil. He said it would not harm the engine to run it but the noise would be disturbing, and that it may resolve itself in a day or two. If not the lifters would need to be replaced. My dad doesn't believe that's the case and also wants me to add some kind of STP honey? to the oil for extra lubrication. Do I trust my mechanic? Other than driving it home a mile it hasn't been driven.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Problem isn't the transmission, it's the engine. Sounds like it's overheating to me. Check the coolant, watch the temp guage, and go from there.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Sounds like you ruined the top end of the engine with the low oil pressure. The lifter noise may go away in a few days like the mechanic says, but that doesn't mean it's ok. They noise will come back, and the engine will not run right anymore. STP is fine as a stopgap, but you have ruined the engine, get rid of the car fast, you will need a new engine very soon if you don't.
  • mcwellmcwell Posts: 6
    Trust your mechanic on this one. It is possible that all is toast. With fresh oil the lifters should pump up fairly quickly. If they are damaged as may be the case, then they will continue to knock. I know it sounds horrible but please just start the engine, after checking the oil level agian, and let it run at idle. the STP is a nice idea. This thickens the oil and keeps lubricant on and in parts after the vehicle is turned off. The lifters are small hydraulic pumps that dampen the physical contact between the camshaft and the valves. I would be greatly concerned why all the oil ran out or was consumed. The vehicle is not old enough to be worn out. I would keep a quart of oil-say 10w40 in the car, and check the oil level every day for a while to see what is happening to your oil. While youare at it, check the coolant level too by actually removing the filler cap, COLD ENGINE ONLY, and looking in the radiator. I have a 99 explorer and it is losing coolant and the coolant recovery tank does not reflect a low level.
    Good luck! Let us know if it clears up.
  • I wondered the same thing. My husband changes the oil and he can't remember when he changed it. It was important because if it ran out of oil in the time since he changed it there is another problem. I think what happened was our dash system was telling us it was time to change the oil and normally he resets it when he changes it but I think he may have turned it off to stop the warning, intending to change it and forgot. I'm not entirely sure. Someone said since he uses synthetic it may have helped prevent damage, it was never smoking and I only went up the street to the mechanic. The noise seems to have lessened since we put the STP in yesterday but hasn't gone away yet. The mechanic quoted us around $550 to replace the lifters if necessary. I mainly wanted to make sure that the mechanic was right about not causing more damage by driving it with the noise. I will be adding oil changes to my responsibilities! Thanks for your help.
  • And I will take your advice and check the levels too, thanks again!
  • I just ran into the same situation this week and still have not figured out why after 2 or 3 minutes after you start the vehicle that the check the charging system display lights up * I just replaced the belt today to see if it helped * it worked for about 10-15 minutes before that crazy display came on again * I replaced the alternator that was faulty , recharged battery for 12-13 hours and thought it was an easy repair until this display issue keeps coming back * Any help would be greatly appreciated :) ** THX
  • I have a 2001 Ford explorer XLT. It started making the incredibly loud humming noise after i hit around 30 mph. I noticed my ball joint was bad so i changed it and rotatedm y tires thinking that would have been the issue. The sound got softer for around a week and now it is right back to be extremely loud. What else could this be. I heard maybe the wheel bearing but im not for sure and i really cant afford to put the money into it just to figure out that its not the wheel bearing. The only other thing i could think maybe had something to do with it is the fact i took the 4-wheel drive shaft off to redo the joints on it and the upper joint fell out and i have yet to replace it so its been out for over a month now. Does anyone have any suggestions or can anyone help me out in any way. It would be great.
  • Start with this. Check the voltage at the battery with engine off. Write it down. Start the engine check it again and write it down. wait for batt light to come on and check it again to compare. You want to rule out 2 things, the battery is defective, not charging=12.25-12.75 volts. Motor running= 13-14 volts, and that the new alternator is actually working. I am thinking you have a bad connection coming off of the alternator. Caution- WATCH YOUR HANDS AROUND THE ALTERNATOR WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING.
    After charging the battery for several hours it may retain enough voltage to not que the batt.light for a few minutes. Of course this means the altemator is not working or the connection to it is faulty.
  • Where would be the best place to take my Ford Explorer 2001 that has an engine coolant leak problem for a diagnostic appraisal ? The Ford dealer ? or a regular mechanic. I have a deep distrust of most mechanics around my area and dont know of anyone near by. Please help.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    This post may be deleted - but if not, you may want to check the recommended mechanics list at They are posted there by customers from all over the country. Not knowing where you are, I don't know how to get you to someone you can trust.

    You should be able to trust the Ford dealer - should be. But sorry to say, you can't depend on anything for sure.
  • Thank You Steve, I'm located in the Miami area near Sweetwater Zip 33174.
    The mechanics around here are notoriously unreliable and expensive. Thank you for your reply. I checked the mechanics at cartalk as you recommended and found a few around my area and I will check them out. But if you have someone please let me know.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    I had a guy I liked and trusted in Gainesville, but that won't help you. Good luck, hoping you find a friend in Miami! :blush:
  • Okay, here's my problem. One morning, the power windows just stopped working. All 4 stopped at the same time. Checked the fuse, seems manual says audio on the same fuse and audio works. Removed the apparatus from the driver door and installed brand new to check, and still nothing. Battery is new so can't be that. Took look at the wires in the floor on driver side going to door and all seemed okay. Pulling my hair out....any ideas?

  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    edited January 2012
    Yep, afraid I do have an idea, and you're not going to like it. Could be the body Control Module, the computer that manages most of the electrical accessorys in the cabin. Very expensive. Try rebooting the car with a battery disconnect for a few minutes. Turn something on to drain all residual power out of the car, then re-hook up. If I'm right, they'll work again, and you may not have a problem again. But, if it keeps happening, the module may need replacing, OR, you may have a short or ground loose somewhere else. Pray you do! Good luck.
  • I could add to that class action suit as at 72,000 miles my transmission was replaced due to unpredictable, dangerous stalling while driving 75 miles per hour on a freeway, a ford dealer told me to replace the transmission as the transmission head had completely cracked?
    I have since read on this blog of a similar problem that some one else had and they only replaced the V2V valve, now am wondering if I got taken by ford yet again, anyway I have also had to replace the ball joints in front at 72000 miles, so I would be interested in a suit
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    You weren't taken by
    Ford, you may have been taken by a dealer, and that is not Ford. Probably the valve replacement would have done it - independent shops are often better for this repair out of warranty.
  • leelee89leelee89 Posts: 1
    edited January 2012
    hi i just bought a 2000 ford explorer xlt 4wd and i put lots of work in to i put a new heater core and new axle along with upper and lower balljoints and tirod ends. i still need to put both o2 sencers in and shocks but i cant seem to figure out why i keep runing out of antifrezz i can not see not leek i have check my oil and that look great my belt also make a squealing noise like the belts going bad im not sure whats going on i was thinking it might be my water pump going bad or they didnt put my heater core in right anyone out there having the same problems with this please help im runing out of money on this truck and time its driving me crazy
  • I've got a 98 ford explorer, 4.0 SOHC with 190,000 miles. It started and ran about 20 feet the other day, and then wouldn't start. I checked the fuel pressure, it was low, so I put in a new fuel pump, in the tank. (I've got a bad back and took me 1 1/2 days). still wouldn't start, checked the spark at the plug, it was very weak and intermittent, so I put a coil on. Now it's got good spark, and when I turn the key, I hear the pump come on and off, turn it to start and it ALMOST starts, then just cranks!!! I get no codes when I run diagnostics, so I need help to figure out what to do next. Thanks
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Could be the crank sensor.....
  • Actually, I do not have any problem with my transmission. My car is running 55,000 miles already.I just want to ask, does Explorer 2006 needs transmission fluid change? I think since it was designed with no dip stick at all, there is no need for fluid change. Will it create any problem in the future if I do not make any fluid change? Advice PLEASE!
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    These transmissions are "sealed for life" and a transmission service is not "required" on them. They expect "life" to be 100,000 miles. But I would have it serviced anyway. It won't hurt, and may extend the life considerably.
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