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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair




    Can someone help me? :cry:
  • the rattle was harmonic balancer the weight seperated inside of it
  • on my 2004 mountaineer brake pulsates 2 or 3 times just before coming to a complete stop if you brake easy it doesnt occur abs light on intermittently wether using brakes or not
  • I've had nothing but issues with this vehicle since I bought it, I don't blame the vehicle though...the previous owner perhaps and the dealer that sold me the Sohc engine... are more at fault. I love the vehicle because the 4 wheel drive aspect of it is wonderful. What I'm writing for is to tell what i've fixed, what it's doing now and hopefully someone that has had this generation can give me advice on what I have to look forward to. I need to know what needs to be fixed now that could save me a great deal of money down the line.
    Whats been fixed is shocks, struts for front and back, there was a tensioner fixed on one of the front timing belts, the tow package was fixed and a seal put on replaced on the radiator because it was leaking antifreeze.

    My problem is that sometimes the truck smells like it's leaking oil. There has been no discovery of this just the antifreeze leak. and even after the seal was put on the radiator I still smell an antifreeze leak but the source of it, has been unfindable to date.
    I am going to have to have the Sohc engine pulled out in the next few weeks to have a belt replaced (on this model there are four timing belts) I think at that time I should have all four timing belts fixed and the tensioner so that the wear on them is even. Any thoughts on this?

    The truck runs like is sounds weaker like it could die at any moment, there is a high pitched noise (which I'm told may be the belt issue which makes sense), and there is a grinding sometimes on the passengers side when I'm driving it (which I think is the ball joints because I had the same issue with a ford taurus I had a while's the same noise...poping, grinding)....
    What I want to know is
    1. When they have the cruddy engine pulled is there anything else besides the belts and tensioners that they could do to it to make the engine better? Is there a way to overhaul this engine to make it not have all the issues this engine is known to have?
    It's a V6 by the way so the mileage is better.

    2. Is there anything else that could be attributed to those noises that I haven't mentioned that should be checked?
    Would a tune up help with any of this?

    My vehicle is the 2000 ford explorer XLT with the Sohc engine
    just under 94000 miles
    I'm not blaming the vehicle, it's not her fault she wasn't taken care of but now that I have the Explorer I don't plan on giving up on it because I'm sure there is something that can be done now to help and lessen the damage of issues later on or perhaps eliminate that altogether. I want to have this vehicle for the next ten years at least so any advice would be much appreciated.
    I feel the dealer should have let me know of all these issues but , alas lessons learned....always have my mechanic check crap out before I buy it. :)
  • redhawk3redhawk3 Posts: 1
    i hav a 2000 ford exp. limited. dashbaord red low voltage and batt. was lit up.replaced batt.,alternator,tension pully,and belt. checked all grounds (cleaned to ensure proper grounding). tested batt. (was good) ,tested alt. (was good). hooked up voltage tester to batt while running. (test was good). put tester on alt. (tested not good) was no current going thru hot wire to alt. hooked jumper cable from bolted hot wire on alt. to poss. batt. terminal and was charging batt. looked on my chevy truck and alt. wire goes directly to hot on batt. did same test on truck and tested perfect. so took heavy gauge wire from alt. to poss. batt. and is now running and charging. this dosn,t mean that its a permanent fix but shud keep u going til u can find the scource of orig. prob. cud also drop the starter and make sure all conections are clean and secure. hope that helps. (double chek all fuses)
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    I'm concerned about your mechanic - because IIRC, the 2000 4.0L six is a Cologne engine, and has a timing chain, not belts..... so I'm wondering why he's going to pull that engine out to replace the "belts".......4 of 'em.....

    Make sure he oils your Muffler bearings while he's in there, ok?

    The only problems this engine is known to have, is a neoprene cog that the "chain" will wear out, and intake manifold leaks. The engine is a workhorse that has been around since 1975 at least, and is one of the toughest, strongest and most reliable engines in the industry. Please get a second opinion! With 94,000 miles, this engine should just be broken in, not broken down even with some moderate neglect.....
  • Oils a muffler? lol funny.
    This model is a V8 and mine is not. It's also typically all wheel drive whereas mine is 4 wheel drive. It's not that I'm car ignorant it's that I'm ford ignorant. I'm not used to them. I prefer a Buick...I had to buy something though when my 87 Buick Century was totaled. :( Ford is a completely different beast.
    I would get a second opinion if there was anywhere else to go around here. I might take it to Rick Ball in Sedalia, mo I've heard good things about them. Our dealer well here everytime I take it on there and get it back it makes some loud awful noise. Fact is it didn't make that noise before I took it to the local ford dealer and well I don't think they put the engine back together right last time they worked on it so I need to take it somewhere.

    Well the guy I got it from was a former Ford mechanic and it was towed behind a trailer so most of the mileage is just tow mileage. I'm not blaming the vehicle and the mechanic won't pull the engine unless he can find something to give him a reason to. It's not at that point yet. there is this constant or nearly constant high pitched's not loud or anything it's just annoying and constant and I want to fix it if we can ever figure out what 'it ' is .
    The MAf Sensor seems to be working fine so that's not it. I'm not sure what else it could be.
    Anyway thanks for the heads up :) It's why I ask this stuff. I'm learning about Fords.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    The high pitched whine is usually an idler pully that's wearing out and needs replacement - pretty common, no big deal, cheap to replace and easy. Could be an alternator too, but most likely the pully.

    There are no inherent weaknesses in the 2000 Explorers. Some years there are, but that one is very strong, tough, and dependable. The shift motor for the 4WD can go bad after several years - and if it quits or has trouble going into or out of 4WD, that's what it is, and it's a $400 or so repair. Other than that, they will run forever. I've had 8 Explorers starting with 94, up to 2012. We love them. Their design is always superior and ahead of the curve, even though a 4-Runner may run longer without issues. Ford invents the feature, others eventually adopt it (like folding 3rd row seats - I know yours doesn't have them), except for GM, who never seems to get it. You should end up loving this truck. You can drive it over curbs, and it won't bend. Good luck!
  • thanks a bunch for the heads up :)
    I love it so far I think the tires are pricey but should last a while. It's way better thus far than my Taurus was. The Taurus cost me $300 a month in repairs but then again the person that had it before me ran the crap outta that Taurus. I only paid $1,300 for that car and it got me around for a year and I have a lot of miles I drive.
    This Explorer cost a little money off the bat and I was worried but it was minor stuff mostly. I took on a payment for it but I had to at some point because it's like they say you get what you pay for.
    Sounds like I made a good deal on it. I will check to idler pulley myself. Thanks for the advice because when I tell anyone else they're thinking worst possible when I'd like to fix the little issues first to see if that works because if someone pulls an engine a lot can go wrong and I don't think it's necessary.
    I'm glad to hear you'd had such good luck it gives me some relief. I've heard that which is why when I snagged this for $6,600 I couldn't resist because it has some extras..a tow package. I know around here vehicles like this sell for around $8,000. I'm hoping to have this one still when I get my Masters degree. I like that it drives like a truck.
    Which is nice to have. The 4 Wheel drive works nicely and in snow I don't slide around.
    How do they do on ice?
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Honestly, I have a cabin in the mountains, and my Explorers have done about the best of any of my 4WD vehicles. I've had 2 Escalades, and both of them tended to stick me on the hills on ice, while the Explorers have pulled me up the same hills. I have found them to be very steady and dependable in any road conditions, even mud. I think you'll be happy.
  • idokteridokter Posts: 1
    Knock on wood. This has been a trouble free SUV. Change oil ever 3-5k miles. Never had a true tune up. What service should be done? Plugs? Filters? It has new battery and tires and still get std miles of about 300+ miles per tank. :shades:
  • prettybirdprettybird Posts: 1
    Hello, I am new to this, and to my dimay, I have not heard very good things about the 1991 transmission, I have been basically given a Ford Explorer, manual, five speed, and it runs, but it sounds terrible when I try to put into gear, like it is grinding, what could this be?
  • mcwellmcwell Posts: 6
    There is an adjustment on the clutch linkage that might give you better clutch pedal travel. Probably the clutch has been replaced and the cabling has been maladjusted somewhere in the past. If the clutch point is at the top of the pedal(pedal all the way up), the clutch is worn out, but you would not get the grinding that you have described. By grinding it means the clutch is not disengaging completely and the gears are trying to turn before they are engaged-thus grinding against each other. The repair manual should indicate how to adjust this out. The cable itself could actually be the problem by serious stretching or even cutting through the cable housing thus making the cable have more length and not disengaging the clutch completely. If you are going to look at this yourself- wear goggles first-not after oily crap falls in you eyes.
    Hope this helps!
  • eaglejim7eaglejim7 Posts: 1
    My explorer cranks but will not start. The anti-theft light on the dash blinks very fast. It's been in the repair shop for 1 week now. They could not get it to repeat the no start. Finally they called today and said the anti-theft transceiver P/N F8SB15607AC IS THE PROBLEM. tHEY ALSO SAID THIS PART IS ON NATIONAL BACKORDER UNTIL JUNE 1ST. Does anyone know if there is another part number that will work? I can't find this part anywhere. Thank you.
  • I don't understand, I have a 2003 Explorer, all of a sudden, I cannot turn to defrost mode, it stays stuck on the split window/floor mode, the windows quit working, I cannot get the truck into low 4wd, I think high works but I don't hear it engage, I just see the light on, and now when I drive, there is a loud "clicking" sound that is coming from the left rear wheel area, but it goes away if I take a sharp enough right turn, otherwise, the faster I go, the louder it gets, so loud inside that I have to crank the stereo to drown it out. Where do I start???? Please help!!!! :mad:
  • nvfordnvford Posts: 1
    I recently swamped my 2000 4.0L SHOC explorer. I have removed all the water, dried all the electrical components, and replaced the spark plug wires. But it still dose not want to start, and if it dose start it has no power to move when in gear. Anyone know what else might be wrong?
  • b7v7rm71rb7v7rm71r Posts: 1
    edited June 2012
    If you recently changed the tires they could be the wronge size. I had that problem with my 2003 for explorer put the proper size tire and it was good as knew.
  • i've had similiar problems with ALL 4 WINDOWS, but in my case i can hear the power window motors running, the glass just does not move. can get stuck either up or down. obviously a design flaw. ANYBODY HAVE ANY MODIFICATIONS I CAN DO TO REPAIR , I'M SURE I'LL FIGURE OUT SOMETHING eventually, but a push in the right direction would sure be appreciated. :-) ziggypiggy
  • jim5072jim5072 Posts: 1
    edited November 2012
    I had this alarm problem. It turned out to be the connectors at the top of the rear hatch. Open the rear hatch, pull the trim panel down at the top area to expose two connectors. These connectors twist each time the hatch is opened. If contact is lost due to temperature changes, wind, etc, the alarm sounds. They can be tightened by gently squeezing the female side of the connector with pliers. CAREFUL NOT TO OVER DO IT. Lube the connectors with electrical grease and reinstall. Mine drove me bonkers before I figured it out. Good luck
  • Hi, I was wondering if you knew how I could go about fixing a leak from the rear left side window? The seal looks tight, but rain is getting in like crazy. Thanks.
  • I have a Ford Explorer 2006, the light on the shift indicator is not working, this is where you see the P R N D 1 2 3. Can anyone tell me please, on which fuse the light is connected to. I tried to check the light bulb and it seems okay, so I guess it might be a busted fuse. Thanks!
  • Did you ever figure out the problem...we are having the very same problem...would love some help...
  • the fuse box for that is under the dashboard (steering Wheel) if u check the manual u will be able to identify the fuse.They all have a specific number and spot. Good Luck
  • I have a Ford Explorer 2006,everything has been fine until recently, when I started having trouble filling up the gas tank. The gas pump keeps stopping – every 30 seconds or so – while I’m trying to fill it. I thought it was the nozzle that had a problem, but after trying with other gas stations, it was still the same.
    Any ideas/help please...why does the gas pump nozzle keep turning off??
  • Couple of things- be sure that the tanks is not actually full. Just be sure the gauge is not faulty.
    That said, there is a check valve in the filler neck that must open to let fuel be added. There is a bypass hole so some gas will go down the filler tube but slowly. Remember your chemistry here and do not poke a screw driver down the neck to open the valve. Sparks are not your friend here. However, you may use a section of stiff hose or other rubber product to loosen the check valve or determine if something is blocking the tube.
    If your are not familiar with working around gasoline fumes, then please use a garage to replace the check valve.
    Let me know what you find!
  • I have a 97 explorer sport I had major coolant leak looks like back of engine I have torn down to lower intake manifold. That is were all is pooling and most on left side. Any suggestions of the source????
  • tooketooke Posts: 1
    I was driving my explorer down to work, and then my radio started turning on and off. Then I started losing acceleration, and when i went to press the break my abs lights went on. Every time i pressed the breaks there would be a dinging noise. This is most likely my alternator having issues right?
  • mcwell1mcwell1 Posts: 1
    Most likely. However, test the battery after charging with an external charger. It could be sucking the life out of the charging sytem. Also do not forget to check the batt cables for corrosion and to make sure they are actually still connected.
    Remember that anytime the battery is disconnected or discharged to the level you are describing, that the ECU will need to cycle for a while before your vehicle runs correctly again. The engine may speed up and down and idle rough before the computer gets enough info from the sensors to smooth everything out.
    A word on batterys, the more expensive ones are just adding the price of the warranty on. Concentrate on the cold cranking amps, get all you can afford, that is suggested for your vehicle. If you live in a warmer climate, dont worry to much about COLD cranking amps either. The salesman will tell you differnt but he's just trying to boost sells.
    I managed a major parts store for some time.
    Let me know!
  • snailmlsnailml Posts: 1
    I have a problem with my 03 explorer and the infamous flashing “O.D.Off “ light.
    The truck has 58K miles and showed no signs of transmission issues.
    My wife was driving home and the O.D Off light started blinking. A few miles down the highway later smoke started coming from under the hood.
    She managed to drive home (only a couple of miles) with white smoke pouring out
    The white smoke was caused by a cracked thermostat housing, but the entire engine compartment was covered with dripping Antifreeze fluid.
    My theory is that the OD light is related to the engine compartment getting soaked with anti freeze since they happened minutes apart.
    Does anyone know what might be causing the OD off light?
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    1) Assume it's still doing it?

    2) Assume no transmission irregularities at all?

    The OD light flashing is a warning that your Transmission is
    going out. Taking it out of OD and keeping it out will usually let you continue to use it indefinitely in that situation. It's possible I guess that something got wet from the coolant eruption and shorted out that circuit causing the light to turn on. Eventually, however, it should go back to normal. If it doesn't, your transmission may yet fail.
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