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Ford Explorer Door and Body Questions



  • I have a 2002 Ford Explorer XLT 4WD with 120K miles. I'm hearing air in the front of my vehicle when I hit 45 miles and up. It sounds like the window is partially down. I put in a new windshield and I still hear the air. Seals around the doors look good. But it appears to be coming from the driver side. Any suggestions?
  • I have a 2002 Ford Explorer XLT 4 WD. When I reach 65-70 MPH there is a slight humming sound and vibration when I coast or accellerate. I have rotated tires and even bought new front tires. It appears to be coming from the front right side of the vehicle. It vibrates the whole truck. Not that bad but it is noticeable. I don't know if its the wheel bearing, rotors needing to be turned or what? If someone has experienced this pls tell me the resolution! It doesn't need an alignment.
  • I have a 2002 early model explorer. V8, 4x4;
    My drivers door, door lock switch, will not activate the locks only if then key isn't in and turned on. When the key is turned the door lock works in the drivers door. The passenger and lift gate swith works all the time. The key pad doesn't work when I press 7/8, 9/0 to lock the doors. When I use the remote everything works. When I press the lock twice the horn sounds twice. At different times the alarm will sound after unlocking with the remote or the keypad and opening the door.
  • I have a problem with my fan It will go into high mode when I am driving but the auto switch is not engaged. I have noticed when I hit bumps in the road it sometimes goes on to high setting, also if I close the passenger door it will also go to high.
    The message center sometimes flashes on and off, the direction now is showing SW most of the time.
    I have recently had a new alternator and battery changed, at that time my remote key door opener stopped working and the door open switch to the driver side does not work.( I had it put on the passenger side to check the swith and it does work on that side.)
    I also get a lot of static on my radio more times than not.
    Can anyone offer any suggestions?
  • I have a 98 Explorer and the drivers door latch broke last night and the lock is stuck in the open position. I can't get the latch unstuck and the door won't shut. Please help.
  • I had the same problem. new rotor come with racer already installed, push out the racer and install the the racer that came with the new bearing.... and dont forget to torque the center nut that hold the rotor onto the spindle.
  • can someone send me how to enter new numbers in my key pad
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    Your manual should tell you how to change the keypad numbers. If you don't have a manual, you can download one from Ford.

    Ford Owner Manuals

    The factory code is on a card in your owner's manual. If you don't know your factory code (needed to enter a new code), sometimes you can find the code on a sticker on the computer module somewhere under the dash or behind the radio/cd. The dealer can find the code with their scan tool, but that'll cost you.
  • thanks guys yea i dont have a manual
  • fordo4fordo4 Posts: 1
    Hi- I am having the same exact problem with my '02 XLT- did anyone ever solve the problem. I just had it in to the dealer and they think it is a wiring short, but I don't think that is the case, especially when I read someone with the exact same problem as mine.
  • Can you tell me where the door sensors located?
    Our Explorer is getting a "door ajar" light on . It is sporadic. Of course no door is actually open.

    Thanks for your help!!M
  • Good luck getting this fixed. I have read some forums that say to spray WD-40 on the door latch and close the door about 20 times. Some say bad door sensor (located inside the door). Some people say they have spent over $300 at the dealership trying to get this fixed. I mentioned it to my ford dealership and they acted like they never heard of it before. I met a guy in the waiting room who had the same problem on his 1993 ford truck.

    I had the same problem. Well, it started out the same. Then it got worse. When I am driving the locks will intermittently cycle and the door ajar buzzer will beep like 50 times in a row. Now the car won't lock because it thinks a door is open, so if I lock it the alarm will go off about 15 seconds later (even though the car was never alarmed).

    It seems like a lot of fords have this problem. I will never buy another ford.
  • Yes i was able to fix the problem. I removed the door panel on the drivers door. When testing ground and hot, I noticed my ground was hot (12v). I found a broken 12v wire in the wires that go to the door lock cluster. It was a larger black wire. I removed the door,(have help doing this please), and sttretched out the complete wiring harness. If one was broke, there was a good chance more was. There was only one, I spliced, soldered, and covered the splice. All the problem was fixed. I wish you the best, remember to recheck your door alignment the next day, you might have to realign it.
  • NOT what I wanted to hear!

    We have someone looking into it. We are experiencing exactly what you stated.

    We have someone looking into it, if it gets resolved, even temporarily, I'll update the thread.

    Thanks for the reply! M
  • I did the WD-40 solution, and it seems to have worked for now. Sensors are located in the latches in the door.
    Good luck!
  • We did the same thing, WD-40, so far so good as well!
  • We experienced the same door ajar problem. HOWEVER, it has now escalated to being on all the time AND now the alarm will come on for no reason. I have been searching the web and found lots of other people with the same prob, but no solution yet. If anyone can tell me how to disconnect the door and anti-theft alarms i would really appreciate it.
  • I fixed the problem by simply disconnecting the door sensors. To do this:
    1. remove door panel
    Remove the screws holding door panel.
    Front panel has 2 screws at bottom, Rear door panel only 1.
    Then genttly pry off the door handle panel. start at the front-bottom and pull toward the front.
    Then remove the elec window button panel.
    Then unsrew the 1 small screw you can see after these panels are removed.
    Note: these screws are hex heads 1/4 ".
    Unplug the power window socket.
    Now pull up and the door panel will simply lift out.

    2.disconnect the door sensors
    There are 2 sensors, 1 is your power door locks and the other is the door sensor.
    The door sensor is on the outside and is the smaller two wires.
    Cut these two wires,peel back the insulation and twist them togather.

    3. Tape and reassemble.

    Good Luck. Tell me how you did. If need any more help email me .
  • leon706leon706 Posts: 1
    The passenger doors will not open from the inside. The child locks are off and I have replaced the inside door handle. For some reason only the inside bar is not raising the door mechanisms to open the door. Anybody got a fix for this or can tell me how much it cost to have repaired? The problem is not with the handle itself.
  • 2birdz2birdz Posts: 1
    I bought a 2006 Explorer from Carmax a few days ago. The car came from up north. I took it to my mechanic today to check it out. He came back shaking his head. He said that the car ran fine but it had a LOT of rust all over the bottom where ever there was exposed metal, especially on the drive shaft. He said the drive shaft rust wasn't just small starter rust, there were big flakes. He said he always avoids cars from the north. He said "I can't tell you what to do, I'm just telling you I don't buy cars from the north." All the bolts around tires wells, frame cage, etc have rust. What do I do? My mechanic was unhappy, he said if the car was 5 or 6 he wouldn't worry but this is only a 2 year old car.
    Carmax says that there is no problem with the car having the rust. It passed their inspections so it would be ok. WILL IT? Can anyone tell me what kind of problems this can cause?
    Thank you in advance for your help.
  • traviswtravisw Posts: 1
    Your interior handles are broken. you have to replace them. the overall problem is that you need to squirt WD 40 in all of your locking mechnisms or it will happen again and again. it is all rusting up in there. i have replace it 5 times before i figured it out
  • bbelascobbelasco Posts: 12
    98 exp xlt door lock switch will not lock, just open both pass and driver side. Switch in hatch locks and opens

    When I bought the car used, the remote would open but not lock the doors. The alarm system thinks it is locked because you could arm it just by pressing the lock button. I would lock the doors by pressing the switch on either door. Recently, both switches will now only open, they will not lock, but the switch in the hatch still locks and opens the doors. The touch pad on the drives door also will open just the drivers door as it should, and all the doors when 3/4 is pressed. It cannot be used to lock the car, but will activate the alarm if you enter the code and it thinks you are locking it. I changed all 4 relays in the back, no help. All fuses are ok.
  • onslautonslaut Posts: 1
    I have a1999 Mercury Mountaineer and both front doors will not open. The driver door outside handle broke off months ago but I was still able to open it from inside. Now the inside handle does not feel like it is hooked up to any linkage. The passenger door feels like the door lock is jammed. Is there any way of opening either door and any idea what the parts would cost. I am a heavy equipment/diesel technician so I can do the work myself. Please help before I have to get my torch or my big hammer out!
  • did u ever find out what caused this problem ? im having the EXACT same problem !!
  • bbelascobbelasco Posts: 12
    No, and it is still driving me nuts. Here is what I have done..

    Changed all the lock relays-4- (they are in the back storage area, driver side)

    Checked the wiring between the door and the fuse box. looking for a frayed and/or broken wire. Did not see any - this seemed to be a common problem that would fix the situation.

    Check the connections to the door control panel, all were ok. Sorry, please let me know if you find the fix. Thanks...bob
This discussion has been closed.