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Land Rover Discovery and Discovery II



  • buroskyburosky Posts: 90
    Service was a concern as well for me when I was looking for my Disco. I negotiated to get that included in the purchase price. The cost for the maintenance agreement wasn't so bad. It was only slightly higher than a similar agreement I had for my mini-van. I am still under factory warranty. I haven't considered getting an extended one yet. Search this board for Nanuq's view regarding warranties. He makes a pretty good argument for not really going bananas thinking about it. About the handling on curves, I can't speak for those who don't have ACE but I think it handles surprisingly good for a tall car. Even going at a fair amount of speed on the freeway ramps feel steady. Of course you have to put everything in perspective. Remember that you are not driving a sports car. Good luck on your search!
  • swillyswilly Posts: 2

    I searched the boards for Nanuq's view on Extended Warranties but couldn't come up with much. Can you give me a posting #, or paraphrase his arguments?

    I have recently been researching extended warranties for my 2000 D2 that is about to have it's factory warranty run out. All the quotes I have recieved have been $3300-3800 for a 5yr/100K exclusionary contract. Seems extremely expensive.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    I think this is the one:

    nanuq Jul 29, 2003 4:14pm

    Steve, Host
  • alattalatt Posts: 11
    I just recently bought 2000 Disco II certified pre owned from LR dealer here in NY. In my opinion, any luxury vehicle service costs a fortune after warranty expires. I bought 2 years extended warranty for $1100, on top of whatever left with factory warranty. Buying certified Pre Owned also gave me extra six months of warranty. About five months after owning the Disco, my front windshield wiper motor broke. LR dealer (not where I bought the disco) repaired it at no cost.

    For your other question about turns on highways, I didn't notice much swaying or leaning to one side with mine, if any at all. I don't have ACE installed. I read somewhere that 2003 Disco handling is even better on turns than pervious year models.
  • setssets Posts: 1
    I'm new to Land Rover and i was wondering if the VIN db that Tincup has access to is global? I live in Finland and I'm currently looking at '99 Disco II with 45000 miles and i would really like to know the history of the vehicle. It's currently sitting in "other marque" dealer, so the salesmen don't really know that much about it.
  • At my weekend place, I am often forced to start the truck to make very short trips. Short as in five minutes or less. No choice, unfortunately, but I won't bore you with the details.

    When it's cold, I use the block heater to speed up warmup. Any other hints as to how I can minimize the hurt for the engine in this kind of use?

    Thanks, experts.

  • 2003 HSE with GPS Nav-Harman/Kardon

    I have two different AT&T GSM phones (Sony Ericsson T616 and Siemens C56) that are causing extreme radio interference (loud buzz saw) when in use in the front seats of the Disco, particularly the nearer to the radio such as in the cup holders. Also, when the phone is not making/receiving a call, the periodic electronic check-ins the phones make to the mobile system every few minutes makes a rapid pulsing buzz sound as well. This has been present since initial vehicle delivery.

    Happens when:

    Engine is on or off.
    Using FM or AM bands.
    Listening to any radio station (frequency).

    Does NOT happen when:

    Radio is off.
    Tried on two other Harman/Kardon equipped Discos (One ’03 HSE, one ’03 SE)
    Any other mobile phone service provider phone is tried (Nextel, Sprint, Cingular, etc.)

    The dealer is stumped and is requesting a troubleshooter from Rover fly-in to take a look.

    Anybody have this problem or have any ideas. My Disco has been in the shop for a month now!!

    Thanks in advance.
  • stopgo1stopgo1 Posts: 20
    I have a friend with a 2000 Disco that has a pretty basic AM/FM Cassette style radio (stock LR part) that experiences this same problem.

    I have an 03 HSE with the Harmon Kardon and have the problem only with certain types of phones, radio phones like Nextel and such. It seems that phones that rely heavily on frequencies to transmit and send info cause the problem.

    Not sure there is much you will be able to do about this, but if you find something that prevents it please post it out here.

  • romacoromaco Posts: 1
    Sick of my Jeep Cherokee...looking at an 00 Discovery II.
    VIN # SALTY12421A295683

    Do you see any problems?

    Thanks to all of your posts that take the fear out of those of us who see a JD Power ranking and just about bail. I get more excited about getting a Rover everyday...

  • mnrovermnrover Posts: 52
    I think the block heater is great. I am looking to get one for the cold Minnesota winters. I posted a few weeks ago about oil additives reducing friction on cold start ups and I didn't get any responses. So I am hesitant to add anything in the crank. But I did hear that an additive called Z-Max actually soaks in the motor. Allowing for easier cold starts and better gas mileage. What I would worry about is not letting the Rover get warm enough where the water vapor created by heat in the muffler will not evaporate and cause premature rust and corrosion in the exhaust system.

                       JOHN ESSER
  • I have read a ton of posts here and the info is great! I am thinking of pulling the trigger on an 01 Disco. Anyone (tincup) have any info on SALTL12431A297960 I would very much appreciate it. When I do buy, I hope I can be of some help to people on this board down the road.
    Thanks in Advance!!!!!
  • mrtoad3mrtoad3 Posts: 68
    I recommend new Mobil-1 0W40 synthetic oil. It is fabulous for cold starts as I have here in the Sierra's. I wouldn't use additives as LRNA does not recommend any additives. Hope this helps.
  • mnrovermnrover Posts: 52
    Aren't synthetics great!!! I currently use 100% synthetic Amsoil 5w/30. Thanks for the response.

  • I've always been surprised why there isn't much interest in this board on the new models coming on stream. The 2005 Disco available this fall seemingly is going to have some serious Jaguar supplied horsepower. The Range Stormer in 2005 for MY2006 is going to take a big bite out of the X5, Porche Cayenne apple. Lots of picutures and a Range Stormer brochure in the current issue of Autoweek. Check out for more info.
  • A week ago, my Discovery II started running hot (quickly). After checking all the common items (thermostat, cap, etc.), I suspected a blown head gasket or cracked head. I pulled the plugs and did a compression check. Cylinder 5 showed low at about 120 lbs dry while the others were 145 or better. I also was able to fill the engine with water and witness bubbling in the top water connection - only when the compression gauge was in cylinder 5. It obviously has a problem only in this cylinder. After pulling the head, I couldn't see how a blown head gasket would leak pressure into the water jacket since the water ports are at either end of the head - unless the head is cracked. I didn't see any visible crack in the head. After doing several tests on the head and the block I finally found out what the problem was! Compression is leaking into the water jacket between the steel sleeve and the aluminum block of cylinder 5. This is obviously a manufacturers defect in the engine. This engine only has 70,000 miles on it.

    Has anyone else experienced this or even heard of a Disco having this problem? Anyone know of any trees I can bark up to get LR to replace the engine outside of warranty? I've heard from a few people that LR has openly admitted a compression issue existed with the 4.0 engine. Any help would definitely be appreciated.
  • I had a '96 Disco (under warranty) with just under 30K on it when I took it into the dealer for routine service and a “Check Engine” light. The dealer informed me that the check engine light was due to exhaust buildup on the valves resulting in an emissions warning trigger from the gas blow-by. Apparently a less than adequate valve design resulted in improper seating during compression/ignition and was known to foul them up. The valves had been redesigned and there was a recall in place to swap out the valves. I gave them the green light to do the swap.

    When they pulled the head, the technician was wiping out the cylinder walls and noted that his rag was catching on something in one of the cylinders. Upon closer inspection, they found a three to four inch vertical crack in the steel cylinder liner. It was tiny in width but definitely visible when you got down there for a look. Ouch!! They asked me if the engine had been running hot or exhibiting any unusual conditions but I had not noticed anything. They informed me that no one from Rover had ever seen this before.

    Fortunately the vehicle was still under warranty and they replaced the “short block.”

    The “compression issue” you noted from other sources may be related to this valve recall.

    Not sure if you have a crack as well but it sounded plausible. Good luck!
  • If this were a bad liner, wouldn't the oil pan have filled with water? While it is most likely a liner problem, because your head is off, you should have it magnafluxed for cracks and/or pressure tested. Since most shops may not have all the block off plates for a 215 Buick to use in pressure testing, magnafluxing is the best and cheapest bet.
  • I have leased MY 03Disco SE since 11/27/02.
    On my recent visit to nearby dealer for 15K scheduled maintenance service,they recommend to replace rear break pads and rotors as well.
    They reported on 16541 miles
    Front brake pads have 58% remaining
    Rear brake pads 33% and rotors at minimum thickness.

    I think that it could have been a defective rotors or pads from a manufacturer.
    Because, both front and rear brake pads are original ones and never replaced.
    Rotor life should be much longer than brake pads.
    If rotor and pad should be replaced at the same time, either rotor is too soft or pad is too hard.
    However,the dealership said it is normal wear and not covered by warranty.
    As per the procedure for a problem resolution on LR Passport to Service, I called LRNA customer care center and talked to the rep. Rep repeat the same "It is a heavy vehicle. Brakes can be replaced even at 5000 miles depending on driving habit. It is wear item which is not covered by the warranty"

    I read the messages on this board about the similar problems. I do not think every rotor has same hardness. But isn't there any industrial/manufacturing guide line for the hardness of rotors? I would like to have input from the experienced people on this board if the life of rotor could be same as single pad life.
  • mnrovermnrover Posts: 52
    Sorry to hear about that. I've heard LR charges big for brake jobs. I posted a month ago about brakes and I was graciously given a website to DIY. Looks straight forward enough for the weekend mechanic.

    I have over 43k miles on my orig pads and rotors and plan on replacing both this Spring.

    Question: Anyone had any luck with drilled or slotted rotors and also the EBC Brake pads?
  • buroskyburosky Posts: 90
    Check my previous postings regarding this. I went through this with my disco. The dealer charges around $1200 for rotor and pad replacement for all four wheels. I had this done elsewhere for around $300 cheaper. I could have saved more if I didn't make the mistakes I did. Bottom line, by the parts you need and make sure they are either OEM parts or specifically for your disco II then just pay labor for putting it in. If you want everything the same as before, go with OEM. As far as slotted rotors are concerned, the sales guy at Atlantic British told me that if you want to go with slotted rotors, it's best to use kevlar pads. A-B has a few rotors/pads bundles for the disco II. That's what I'm getting the next time I need the rotors and pads replaced on my disco.
  • tcypjung, I think you are on to something. No one has ever heard of the rears wearing first. Whle I'm not sure that this will answer the question, the Rockwell C Scale is used to measure hardness in industrial products (like crankshafts). Maybe, you could save one of the condemned rotors and take it to a competent crankshaft grinder and he could test for hardness? Then ask LR what the OEM standard is? Given how the manufactuers are squeezing the suppliers, it wouldn't surprise me if there was a decrease in QC. ("OK, you'll get the price you want but its gonna halfta come out of one of the other two of the big three: on time availability and quality.")
  • Land Rover is a gold mine but Ford needs to manufacture it in US or Japan at Mazda. then they will be very successful or else LR will continue to stink.
  • Traded in my green '01 SE yesterday for a blue '04 SE (with running boards). Got a great deal due to repeat owner, etc... Plus, there are three dealers in my area (Philly), so you have some leverage. The '01 had about 40k TROUBLE FREE miles. The service is paid for on the '04 through 50k or so. The '04 is better in so many ways, but I loved every minute of driving the '01. I am not sure why Cindy is hating on the Disco, but you can't go 5 feet around here (I live on the "Main Line" - which are the western suburbs of Philly) without seeing a Rover, and all the owners seem pretty happy. Sometime at a traffic light there will be 3 Discos and a Range Rover at the same intersection!
  • Cindyroderick, I never realized that Mazda was a pardigm of engineerig or assembly excellence.

    Dominick, what exactly do you like better ("..better is so many ways") about your 2004? Is the handling crisper?

    Incidentally, I'm not sure that seeing four LR vehicles at the same upscale (thanks indeed for pointing this out to us) suburban intersection is my idea of fun. Now, maybe if it was the same onramp onto the Maine Turnpike in a Nor'easter or the only vehicles to make it back to Kabul before nightfall, that would be different.
  • Agreed on Mazda!

    By the way, I never said the Main Line was upscale. I just said there are 3 Rover dealers around here, so people end up buying them. Years ago there was a Lotus dealer in Collegeville (about 20 miles from here) and there were a couple Esprits in the neighborhood. It had nothing to do with being upscale (which Collegeville probably isn't), it was just that having the dealer there meant people saw the cars, drove them, and ended up buying them!

    Reverse snobbery / elitism on Landrover ownership gets old, too (Rovers should only should be owned by people who drive them off road, etc.).

    I grew up on The Main Line, and I'll tell you that there is a lot more diversity of backround and income here than in any post WW II suburban tract house edge city. The Main Line has plenty of apartments, small businesses, and locally owned shops along with multi million dollar houses.

    As for what I like better about '04:
     - Engine feels more responsive
     - Handling is improved
     - They got rid of the "auto lock you in" feature when you start driving
     - Scheduled maintenance paid for this time around
     - Prefer the new wheels
  • A careful second reading of my earlier comments will make it clear. Land Rover will certainly be much better in build quality if its made by Mazda. As far as the recent chestbeating about Halewood being the best ford factory globally, thats propoganda. I am not going to engage in this discussion anymore since I said what I had to say and the wise will better understand it.
  • Landrovers have been designed, assembles and tested at the Solihull factory near Birmingham in England since they started in 1950 (or thereabouts). All current Landrovers are still built there although there are plans to move the assembly of the Freelander to Halewood, a Ford plant near Liverpool. Ford do have serious labour relation problems at the Solihull plant at present as the pay rates at the nearby Jaguar plant (also Ford owned) are higher. Indeed the Landrover workforce went out on strike last week. Feels just like back in the bad old days. If you guys think Friday afternoon manufactured vehicles are more prone to error, I wonder what the one built just before or just after a strike is like .....
  • I thought may be you can help me. I've sunk $800 on a set of Nokian Tires WR (255/65/16) and have buyers remorse. I have a Disco2 2001 - no mods.

    I though the WRs would be great in the snow given Nanuq's rave about the Hakka's but disappointed given the snow we just had here in NJ - it wasn't sure footed as I expected at all, felt light and drove like a minivan. I don't do offroading but hope to this year and I definitely want a good snow tire given that we go skiing every weekend. I probably have one chance to take back the the Nokian WR (cross my fingers) to STS Tires, the question now is what should I go with. Much resistance from dealers here if you change speed rating and/or stock size. Is suppose I can go to a larger tire 245/75/16 like a Hakka LT10 Nanuq runs on but its a N rated tire (max 87 mph) and I'd be on my own. Same w/ BFG AT, have to change tire size and speed rating.

    Any thoughts?
  • mnrovermnrover Posts: 52
    Anyone with SLS have problems with the rear end sagging when parked? I went out to the Rover today at lunch, mind you it is -22 degrees F (-50 with the windchill factor), and the rear was lowered about 2 inches. As soon as I fired her up, the SLS kicked in and the rear end raised to normal height. I have a feeling this will be an expensive fix!!! HELP!!!! Any ideas!! Or, can I count on the cold weather as a factor because I have not had any problems until it became this dangerously cold. Thank you in advance.

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