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Land Rover Discovery and Discovery II



  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    I haven't heard about this one! Whassup?
  • duder1duder1 Posts: 2
    I had talked to the LR dealer- said the 4L had more valving problems than 3.9L in the older models. Whats the GEMS System?? Thanks for the input- any electrical gremlins that you guys have run into beyond the batteries?? As far as the Borla exhaust- Primo stuff. I don't know if Flowmaster has anything for LR but their sound and HP gain are usually the highest gains for the buck. Used to run on my drag car.
  • discomandiscoman Posts: 110

    I got a letter in the mail fro LR. They told me that there is a recall out on all Discoveries with plastic gas tanks. (Yeah, Yours too) Apparently they get cracks in them over time under extreme weather and off road contitions. Some might smell of fuel and even leak, depending on the extent of the cracks, so they are recalling all of them and replacing the gas tanks with steel. I go on Friday to take mine. Gonna get the belt changed and throttle body cleaned while I'm at it. After all I am over 107K.
  • From the messages I have read on the oil forum, it seems that viscosity modifiers can gunk up an engine. So, do I have to use 10W30, etc., or can I use straight 30 weight in the summer. I live in Tennessee where the summer daytime temp. ranges from 60-70 degrees in the morning to 90+ at noon.

    The owner's manual recommends 10W40, so it makes sense to me that a single grade oil would work. Can I use it? What is 30-weight oil used for?
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    Discoman, buy the serpentine belt tool and DIY ... it pays for itself many times over and it is EAAAAAAASY. Piece of cake. The throttle body is a little trickier, especially the small hoses up around there.

    Duder: Yeah the GEMS appeared with the 4.0L engine. That's a global (?) engine management system and it was great but the combination of engine timing and valve stem design led to carbon deposits on the exhaust stems... which is why top end cleaner doesn't help. The carbon cutting valve design sorted it.

    Vandy: straight-weight oil is often used in older engines where the bearing journals are quite worn and it's hard to maintain oil pressure in critical areas. A modern engine will often work better with a multi-grade so the oil is thin when it's cold and it flows into tight journals easier so you have less wear on startup. Then it thickens up as the temps rise so you have good oil film under high heat.

    Don't go over a 30-point spread from low to high on the numbers unless it's synthetic oil. Big viscosity spreads are achieved via polymers... and polymers don't lubricate. Try a 10-30w oil. I use 0-30w in winter.
  • Hey all,

    Purchasing an 01 Disco. I've got the option of taking a 6yr 100K warranty through LR, or a 4yr unlimited mile warr. through a highly rated 3rd party. LR warranty is about 900 dollars cheaper, but I'm curious as to what people's thoughts are. Anyone have bad experiences ie. denied claims through the LR extended warranty program.

    Also, anyone know of a licensed independent repair facility in the Denver metro area? I'm assuming maintenance costs will be less than through the dealership.

    Thanks in advance
  • I bought the 80K extended warranty and have not had to use it yet but I think it was pretty much the same as the 3rd party ones.

    I have an 01 also and love it, but it does require a lot of maintenance. Also.. a word of advice. Make sure your auto insurance has a low deductible for windshields. The windshield on the Disco is tres expensive! I learned the hard way.

  • Thanks Kevin,

    They're charging about 1500 for the 72month 100K warranty, but seems like one out of warranty, major repair could eat that up.

    I'd already made a mental note to double check the windshield insurance, after seeing the heating grid in the front windshield.

  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    Niiiiiiiiiiiiiiice! I'd snap them up in a minute if it wasn't $121 EACH to get them here!

    *sigh* It's calculating Alaska as a foreign country. As usual! :)
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    ... no buying and selling on the boards!

    tidester, host
  • gppgpp Posts: 13
    I just got back from the former LR flagship driving school in West Virginia: in a word, incredible. I made sure to get the same model Disco I own and it was well worth it. The instructor spent as much time working with me on exploiting the features of the car (some of which I didn't even know about) as specific driving techniques. All I can say is that these cars are beasts; I drove a stocker and had no problems with serious rock crawling, nasty, slippery ascents, and some crazy application of Hill Descent Control: my new, hands down favorite features of the Disco.

    Highly recommend the experience to Disco owners to get a chance to really understand how and why their car was built.
  • mnrovermnrover Posts: 52
    Anyone change out a radiator on Disco II? Is it a difficult job? Any tips? LR wants to charge me $700+ for the job. Figured I would try to save some money and do it myself. Any insight would be well appreciated. Or, can it be fixed? Epoxy perhaps?? The leak is on the bottome seam. Thanks!
  • I have a 2001 Disco LE and had to have all the valves replaced at 45,000 due to carbon build-up. It registered missfires in 2 cylenders and triggered the check engine light. Glad it was under warrenty
  • jtad1991jtad1991 Posts: 6
    I have a 2000 Disco II SE and every time I start the ignition, the horn beeps once. It also does it if I just turn the key to Position II (without starting it). There aren't any failure codes or any indication that something is failing initial diagnostics.
    What could be the cause of this?
  • jtad1991jtad1991 Posts: 6
    Any recommendation on extended warrrany companies?

  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    You might be interested in this discussion: Extended Warranties

    tidester, host
  • I have been running my 2004 Disco on mid-grade, 89 octane, unleaded. It runs great, so I don't know if the computer has ever retarded the timing for the lower octane.

    I need to tow a horse trailer this summer. If I start filling up with premium, 93 octane, will the computer advance the timing automatically to give me more power or will I need to go to the dealer and have the computer reset? I assume that the 4.6 liter engine will advance the timing until it notices a knock and then adjust to the quality of fuel it is burning, but I may be wrong.

    Tom H.
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    Any radiator shop should be able to fix it. You remove it, drain it, clean it, solder it, and put it back in. Piece of cake. I did it on a Honda Accord, having NO IDEA what I was doing, in my driveway, with a propane torch and stick of solder.

    $700? Forget that!
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    Boy I dunno. For the Disco series I it would set back and then stay there. The new ones might not do that. Sorry! I can't answer this one. Can you make it "ping" under heavy load and cheap gas? Does it go away with good gas, then come back again with cheap gas? That might tell you that it adapts the timing forward AND backward. Again, I'm just guessing. I know the Series I took some time for the adaptive ECU changes to take place. It takes awhile to "learn" what you're doing. Maybe the short-term fuel changes won't give it time to learn and then relearn?

  • mnrovermnrover Posts: 52
    Thank you for the info - I will see what I can do. While I am at it, would anyone recommend changing the water pump as well? Tough job for the weekend mechanic?? Thought I might do the pump as well, the odometer just changed over to 60k. Thanks again everyone!
  • I filled up with Amoco Ultimate, 93 octane, on Friday morning and pulled a horse trailer to Columbia, TN on Saturday for Mule Day.

    The Disco ran great. I left the tranny in sport mode and it really romped. I was pulling an aluminum trailer with a 2-year-old mule on board, so the load wasn't too bad. The story might be different when the mule, Dan, fills out.

    About the pinging. I never noticed any knocking or pinging around town when I was burning 89 octane. The engine is very torquey and strong with either mid-grade or premium. But, I wouldn't try to tow a trailer with mid-grade.
  • matthewdmatthewd Posts: 2
    Hello all,

    Here's the quick question: Do any of you tow with your Discoveries, and if so, how well does it handle the towing?

    Here's the long version:

    I've been browsing these boards for some info on towing, but can't seem to find what I need. I currently own a 2003 Dodge Durango that I bought used to tow my 19' ski boat (MasterCraft X-7). The Durango is not exactly what I'd call "built well," and i'm looking to upgrade the truck. I live in downtown Chicago, so I need a vehicle that can play nicely downtown, as well as by the lake. I like the Land Rover a lot, and can find some decent 2003-2004 HSE's in the area.

    My concern is the towing. The Disco has a shorter wheel-base than my Durango. Can the V-8 handle the boat (boat + trailer = 3800lbs). Will it be able to haul that sucker out of the water, and up and down the rolling hills of Wisconsin? I know the Rover reputation for off-road prowess, but need to know if it will handle my hauling needs. I'd hate to buy a nice truck that will look and perform well in the city, only to find that my boat has to sit on dry land because the truck won't pull it correctly.

    Thanks a lot. I'm going to look seriously at Discos this week, so I'd like to know if I should even be wasting my time.


    p.s. We're not even going to discuss the lack of fuel efficiency with a boat and an all-time 4WD truck.
  • mnrovermnrover Posts: 52
    Anyone receive notice for a recall of the ECU?
  • mnrovermnrover Posts: 52
    According to the LR dealer that I have been with, there is a short in your steering column. LR changed mine out due to the "Elecritcal Gremlins" lurking around my Disco II. It is an expensive job to replace the column.. Good thing I was still under warranty. Good Luck! :)
  • jtad1991jtad1991 Posts: 6
    Thank you! I'll have the dealer check it out.
  • vdumasvdumas Posts: 14
    Greetings! I am looking at Disco's in the '99 - '00 range. Initially I was looking at Disco2's, but have seen some nice '99 disco1's at good prices, and that got me thinking that it may be a lot better to get the final production run of a series, as opposed to to the initial run. Also a slightly simpler vehicle might suit me more. Does anyone have any comments on this?
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    Good question!

    The SI is better IMHO offroad due to its better departure angle. But some parts of the SII drivetrain were simpler/stronger. The SI uses swivel balls that give you indefinite CV life, but the swivel seals are quirky and easy to bash on snow berms, plus the trunion bearings at the swivel must be adjusted *just* right. My SI has a locking center differential... does the '99?

    Look under the hood... do you see Bosch or Lucas electrics? Bosch is good stuff, and Lucas "can" be good. Mine have been just fine.

    The trailing arms that locate the rear axle on an SII are tough... on an SI they're easier to bend on rocks. Some SIs had a Rotoflex driveshaft coupler at the rear diff that was problematic at times.

    You're right, the '99 was the end of the run and it was arguably the best SI Disco. The early SIIs had some troubles. Do the SIIs you're looking at have ACE? That was often a problem till they got it sorted out later in the model run.

    Check the base of the rear door openings on the SIs... is there rust showing?

    Basically you're looking at the same truck, with some upgraded electrics and a few drivetrain components... and a longer tail end on the SII. But the biggest question will be teething pains on the SII.

    How much of a price difference is there? Will you offroad it? Do you need a locking center diff?

    If it was up to me and I could have a solid '99 SI vs. a solid '00 SII then I would pick the SI just for its offroadability. If you're running around town and they're comparably solid (check their history by VIN) then go for the SII and enjoy the bigger cargo hold.

    Enjoy, and good luck!
  • vdumasvdumas Posts: 14
    Thanks very much for that thorough response. I will check to see if it has Bosch or Lucas, though I don't think that will be a deal breaker. I am avoiding ACE and SLS on DII's as I am looking at keeping it simple. Price for a 99 DI is about a couple of grand less than the 99 DII, probably because the demand for the D1 would be less simply with the D2 out there..... I believe it does have the center locking diff. I will be offroading, but not the hardcore kind of offroading that one sees in the fanatics webpages. I will go out into the wilderness camping etc, but I don't expect to be doing the Roof of Africa anytime soon.

    One question about the VIN history - when I pull carfaxes for various Disco's, some have numerous services, oil changes, suspension services etc listed, some have absolutely none, just vehicle registration info. Would all dealer services be listed on a carfax? Oil changes and lubes are listed on some. My dilemma is deciding whether a truck that has no carfax service records ran so well that the owner never needed to take it in for repair, or was the owner totally negligent? On the flip side, the truck that was in the shop continually, was that an ultra caring owner, or a problem vehicle? I am looking at one 2000 DiscoII, one owner, 80,000 miles, and only one service record at 56,000 for a "Service Contract Claim". The owner says it was dealer serviced per Land Rover recommendations, and there is obviously no way it was only serviced once in 80,000 miles. He must have liked the truck to keep it for 5 years... Would Land Rover dealerships have the service information, and would they give it to me if I called and asked? I am finding myself gravitating more and more to buying a vehicle from a land rover dealer (more expensive) to get some sort of warranty to take some of the unknowns out of this process.
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    Excellent questions! The DII with 80k on the clock sounds like a keeper. It was reliable enough to be a daily driver, and the owner used it as such.

    I dunno about Carfax... no experience there I'm afraid! Sorry......

    For real answers go the the Rover dealer and ask him to pull up the history of the vehicle by VIN. If it was worked on at a Rover dealer, that work will be in there. You're right, an ultra-cautious owner could have pages of work done as opposed to a negligent owner with nothing showing. BUT... if the truck had chronic "issues" then even a negligent owner would take advantage of the warranty and have it in for repairs. Look at what was done when it was in the shop.

    One thing to look for: a negligent owner will tend to let oil changes slide by... and it will result in "tappety" lifters. Let it warm up and then listen to it idle at both sides. Noisy lifters mean it's been a long time between oil changes.

    By all means avoid ACE and SLS. If I could have manual windows, I'd have them!

    If you're going offroad I'd recommend the SI Disco. It simply rocks offroad. The SII is a great truck too and it has traction control so you can get further before you bury it by using its ABS and moving the torque around to the wheels with traction. That system works for mild offroading and getting mildly stuck. But when you're into some big-time burying of your truck, the ABS oriented traction control is just a nickle short and a moment too late... it won't respond fast enough to get you through. In those cases you'll need real lockers... which the SI doesn't come with in any case. Plan on about $800/axle to have lockers put in. THEN you'll be unstoppable. Detroit in the rear and Tru-Trac in the front.

  • The other day I was driving home and my battery light came on...kept going, gauges died, car died, had it checked out by a few "car guys" who said it was the alternator. Ran diagnostics on it with my battery charger and it said the alternator was bad. Ok, so I ordered a used alternator, charged up the car battery and was about to drive it in to get fixed and the M and S lights were flashing and the car was stuck in low. Is this a "side effect" of the bad alternator or is there another bigger issue at hand? It's a 2001 Disco with 109,000 miles, just had the ignition wires and spark plugs replaced, had all my maintanence done for it. Anyone have any ideas or suggestions before I take it in and get raped?
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