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Land Rover Discovery and Discovery II



  • vdumasvdumas Posts: 14
    DogC, A 95 may not be a bad thing. From what I have read, 94 and 95 were considered good years. I just bought a 94, and I really like the fact that if the check engine light comes on, you don't need a reader or the dealer to tell you what's up, just look under the passenger seat from the rear and you will see the code. Easy to clear, and check out the next one if it exists. Mine kept popping on, and it turned out to be the gas. I put in 91 instead of 89. I get an extra 30-40 miles out of a tank using 89 instead of 91, and get no codes, so I figure 3.9's need 89.... Open the oil filler cap, look for black gunk build up. This is bad. Get a flashlight and peer into the engine and your looking for golden/dark brown, not black. Too few oil changes..... As nanuq says somewhere in these forums, if you buy it, change every fluid asap. It's easy to do, and as you get better at it, the mess is less... I have had my disco for just over a month and I love it, have changed all the fluids, oil twice to flush it somewhat. I am developing a relationship with this truck, something I never developed with my other vehicles. If you get a good disco, and take care of it, you will be a happy camper. Good luck!
  • joe233joe233 Posts: 43
    I'm considering purchasing a Disco but don't know too much about the various models & trim levels(series 1vs2, trail model, etc). Is there a FAQ somewhere that explains the various badging/labels and the standard features that are associated with them? I'd like to stick to something a little more recent 2002-2004 if possible so I'd like to find out more about the features/options of these years as well as any problem things to look out for.
  • More Great info, thanks everyone.

    I'm all geeked about buying it, the only prob is i have to sell the vehicle i have now. i thought i had it sold today, then the guy backed out. The race is on to see if i can sell mine before the disco sells. i have to admit, at this point i will be a little upset if the disco sells before i can get it.

  • gregp1gregp1 Posts: 2
    My 2002 Discovery II's radio/navigation system has worked great up until my last trip. I was using the navigation system and listening to a cd and then all of the sudden the system turned itself off then back on automatically. The navigation would work fine for a while then the same problem would happen. As time went on the frequency of the problem increased. Even when the navigation is not being used and I am just listening to the radio the system will automatically turn itself off then back on.

    I reset the system by pressing # 1 & # 3 on the radio presets and the "tp" button at the same time. This seems to solve the problem for a while then the same problem starting occuring again.

    I just went over my 50,000 mile warranty period and was hoping this is a easy fix.

    Any ideas?


  • gppgpp Posts: 13

    Your statement about "If you are serious about it, consider a trip to a Quicky Lube place and have the transfer case and auto trans fluids replaced. Diffs too. That will tell you a lot about their condition. Look for "milky" hypoid lube from the diffs... that means it's been waded with leaky axle seals."

    made me think to ask a few questions. My disco spent north of an hour under a couple feet of water (tailpipe included), running the whole time. Though I often wind up with much shorter wading at this depth, this time I got stuck and had a heck of a time getter her out.

    I checked the oil, looks good, and to be honest she's running better than ever. Since I have a 15K service coming up, I'm taking her in in a week, to the dealer. Anything I should do/worry about in the interim?

  • gppgpp Posts: 13
    quick idea: call your dealer. If your just a hair over warranty, they've been known to help you out in a pinch.
  • gregp1gregp1 Posts: 2
    Spoke to dealer. They told me it's probably a bad unit and a new one is over 2K. He suggested that I go and purchase another through a third party (Not LR) because I could probably get another model cheaper.
  • I put a deposit down on the disco. I'm taking to the "family mechanic" tommorrow to check the things you suggested. One more thing i noticed is that the rear passenger window does not operate nor does the driver automated side mirror. Is this a quick (inexpensive/DIY) fix?

  • You said that a common problem was with the rear windows and a solder joint, so you think it is just a connection on the above mentioned problem?
  • jaycojayco Posts: 1
    I just bought a 98 Disco LE 116,000 miles on it :shades: . I have a couple of questions:

    The electric seats don't work, nor does the front moonroof :cry: . I did not buy the Disco from a LR dealer (Hope it's not a :lemon: . The dealer I purchased the Disco from said they would have the seats fixed :D . Is this a typical problem with Disco's (electrical problems? :confuse: ) In the future do you have any suggestion on how to maintain the electrical system to help prevent future electric issues? Also is this an easy fix? Is it expensive?

    The engine seems real strong. Sounds good. Are the 4.0L engines reliable? What's the typical life span?

    Thank you in advance for all your help advice and insight :o)

  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    Wow, sounds like fun!! A couple things to do now... drive the living hell out of it and use the brakes HARD. I mean really REALLY hard. Hard enough that if there was any water in the lines or calipers, that it would vaporize to steam. Then see if the pedal gets spongy. If it does then consider bleeding the brakes thoroughly. Water can leak into the slave cylinders at the wheels... though I really doubt it happened.

    Next: you have a DiscoII so you don't have swivel balls. The older Series I Discos have big gorgeous balls at the outboard ends of the front axle and the CV joints live in there in a lube bath. A warm ball and a cold river means water gets sucked inside. But you have twin yokes and no swivels so you're okay. But you do want to check the diff lube. It's easy... use your socket wrench and pull the diff plugs. See if the lube that comes out is "milky" with streaks. If so, water leaked in thru your axle seals. If not, heck,,,, it must have been time to change it anyway, right?! Refill until it just overflows... I like 90w. Synthetic is not that important cause you'll be changing it again soon (right?)

  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    Good luck! I think you're onto something good with this '95.

    There is a common fix for the failed rear windows... they tend to fail a solder joint on the circuit board that runs them. The description is posted online at another forum but I can't post the link here. It's against forum rules and I'll get spanked (again) by my ole buddy Steve.

    If you write me at I'll send you the link. There's a ton of good stuff over there.

    About the ill driver side mirror... no idea! I've never heard of one failing. It could be something simple or it could have suffered a mighty blow. It's easy to reach with the window rolled down... hint hint.

    Best luck!
  • ldureskylduresky Posts: 1
    Hi everyone,

    I have a 2001 Disco and it is almost impossible to put our kayaks on top of it. Has anyone found an easy way to get to the top of the Disco roof to balance and load things. Are there collapsible ladders or something that might connect to the rails that would make it easier?

  • gppgpp Posts: 13
    Here's what I do for both my kayak and canoe: set the back load bar (I use thule with the super big foot gutter mounts) as far back as you can: right before the bend in the gutter. You can then put the yak on that bar (or a felt kayak running mount, which is better) and slowly slide it up and toward the car; lower as it toward the front bar once you have enough of the yak up over the car such that it will touch the front bar rather than the sunroof.

    If it looks like hte yak will hit the back of the car before the back load bar, put a foam block there or use one of those rollers that will protect the car; for a cheapy fix: use a towel.

    For front tie down: stand of the rear wheel for the front load bar (step in teh rear doorwell or on the running board if you have one to get up).

    For back tie down, stand on the back bumper.

  • blckislandguyblckislandguy Posts: 1,150
    You know, everytime I read this forum Nanuq seduces me and I get interested in picking up a used Disco for use on Block Island. I figure that at least I'd get to the dock on time in the winter. Then I read some little bit of LR maintenance hassle and reality sets in. I already knew that the Disco auto tranny didn't have a dip stick and to change the ATF you had to literally use a porta-power to pry apart the frame rails. I knew that the Rover V8 is almost identical to the one my mother had forty years ago in her Buick (wow, for GM to abandon engine tells me a lot), etc.

    Now, in the post above I read that to change the fuel filter you have to remove a rear wheel!!! If my old man and the rest of the WWII generation ever were to read this they would fall down laughing.

    Gentlemen, this is nutty. This kind of pain and torture should be saved for something truly unique (maybe a Bentley Arnage), significant (maybe a 1956 300SL), or a pavement ripper (say, a turbo Porsche).
  • typ901typ901 Posts: 3
    '99 Update to Series II- Wider and cosmetic changes, I'd have to research mechanical differences. '03 gained 4.6, (from 4.0) so HP jump from 190 to 217 and more torque. Not sure but I thought '04 brought back locking center dif. absent from the '03.
  • typ901typ901 Posts: 3
    (wow, for GM to abandon engine tells me a lot), etc.

    Don't forget that GM abandoned their now venerable 3.8 V6, selling the rights and tooling etc... to AMC, only to buy it back after our late 1970's OPEC gas crunch. So- GM found it cheaper to build iron block's when gas was less than 25 cents per gallon, after the steel industry had lobbied them. Rover bought the rights and changed some steps in the casting process. Not a bad engine design, just faulty process. Buick v8 is solid and takes a beating

    As far as unique, I do not see a lot of older Rover's= series vehicles on the road either. Maintenance on Porsche's and the like is even more costly and odd...Part of owning a Rover is laughing and the bad designs and trying to figure out how to fix things- It helps build character.
  • typ901typ901 Posts: 3
    Watch out for the HD- OME's they make the ride a lot stiffer and jarring- Ok when loaded, but much more rough empty.
  • Hey Kevin,

    I have an 01 as well and just got a cracked much $ are you talking?

  • mnrovermnrover Posts: 52
    My CEL light just came on on my 99 Disco II. I am assuming that I have a failed O2 sensor(s). I will get it checked out for sure.. Looks like a potential pretty easy to fix. How long should I go with the CEl light on? Will it damage anything long-term? Just found out that I need to buy 4 separate O2 sensors? Wow
  • phill27phill27 Posts: 31
    I have '00 DII with heated windscreen. Just had it replaced two days ago by a national glass installation company. I was afraid of getting the the wrong one installed, so I had them run it by price (as a cash deal) instead of through insurance. The non- heated version ran $259.... the heated version $759!! After several choice words, I ran it through the insurance and only paid my deductible.
    I did have a chip repaired for $65 a year ago. I was told heated windscreens were not a problem to repair when possible. If your crack is smaller than a dollar and not directly in front of the driver, it may be possible.
    Hope that helps.
  • phill27phill27 Posts: 31
    I have a "00 DII with 60,000 miles. I have tried to drain and fill the transmission at an independent garage. My mechanic wouldn't touch it without having new pressure washers for the drain and fill holes. Have you replaced these each time? I have noticed a whine in 1st and 2nd gears and hope new fluid will help prevent any future problems. My mechanic is convinced that a simple drain and fill is a waste due to the large capacity of fluid (10quarts). He also says it would be hard to hurt the tranny because of this.

    I have a similar question about brake replacement. I am about to replace the front brake pads and the new set didn't come with caliper bolts. Again, is it important to replace these each time? I had Lucas pads in the past and they came with the bolts. I thought I would try a set of Wagners this time as the amount of dust from the Lucas' is rediculous!
    Any help would be greatly appreciated
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    I have never replaced a washer on my transmission or oil pan drain bolts on my Rover. The diffs don't use washers so that's moot. Mine don't leak... they weep slightly but not enough to drip. Someone asked recently about this and I replied that the oil drain doesn't even USE a washer... which shows how much attention I've paid to that. No drips.

    Your transmission, however, may be a horse of a different color. You don't have a dipstick so yours is a sealed unit. I suspect you'll have lots higher pressures in there than mine. Plus if it does leak, how does Joe Driveway Mechanic check it? I think in this case your mechanic is right... just to be safe.

    I suspect the whine you hear in 1 and 2 comes from the transfer case. It should be whining right beneath the passenger seat. This is NORMAL. You have a gear driven transfer case (massively strong) and the gears whine. At 98,000 miles mine has finally got over it, but I do sort of miss it.

    Your transmission holds a LOT of oil. To get a good change you need to swap it 3x because you can't drain your torque converter. Yeah... that's a lot of trips to the recycler. Change it, wait a week, repeat. This eventually gets the majority of the old oil changed out.

    Your transmission is one of the toughest available anywhere. It's sourced from ZF and it's the same one that goes on the high end Mercedes and others like that. My buddy here is the mechanic at the Rover center and he has seen ONE transmission failure on a Disco... it was shipped from the factory with no oil in it. Just remember "oil is cheaper than metal" and spend wisely.

    On my truck you don't pull the calipers to change the brake pads. You just pull two cotter pins, then pull two pad keeper pins, and pop out the old pads. Make sure to put in new cotter pins when you reassemble.

    One word of advice: use the softest pads you can find. They do wear quickly but they preserve your rotors.

    Congratulations on working on your own truck! It's sure rewarding, isn't it?
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    Perfect!!!!! I wonder if I can get a bulk discount?
  • kamau331kamau331 Posts: 1
    Was your problem ever resolved regarding the "sticky valves"?

    Recently, my 2000 disco (w/75k miles) engine light comes on and goes off. I had the regular service performed and even had the mass air filter replaced only to have the light come on again last week :mad: .

    In addition to having the mass air filter changed, the dealer found that the catalytic converter had been damaged by the 'miss fires' caused by the sticky values. Luckily, it was covered by the warranty. Like you, the dealer gave me a quote of $3k - can anyone verify what actually causes this (especially when special care if given to changing the oil on a regular consistent basis).

    Other than that, I LOVE :) my disco ... especially during the last NY winter season - just let 'Destiny' warm up and gracefully handle the snow with ease (looking forward to off-roading in the near future). Each time that I see other owners drive their Rovers - I honk or blink my lights and acknowledge them with a wave.

    Oh, by the way, thank you for the many postings to reassure that my investment was not a waste as other would have me believe. Keep passing on the experience ...
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    Yep I had my valves redone under warranty. Kent showed me the old ones and how they develop this coating of black gunk up along the stems... then showed me the new valve/guide design with the "carbon cutting" edge. Very cool.

    You might check and see if Rover has an extended coverage plan in place for this specific problem. If enough people had the trouble... maybe they offer to fix it at a discount?

    Oil changes and injector cleaners don't help. It has to do with the cylinder head design, valve/cam timing, injection mapping, all managed by the GEMS that came with the 4.0 engine. Basically you wind up with unburnt fuel and/or fuel combustion byproducts accumulating on the exhaust valve stems. When you get enough buildup they begin to stick in the valve guides.

    I wrote here a lot about this years ago... give a search back thru the archives and see if I had specifics back then that I've forgotten by now?

    Good luck!
  • d_rund_run Posts: 3
    My 96' Disco has been very good to me until it over-heated on the highway. I noticed the water temp needle was in the red and pulled off the road as fast as I could. When I stopped, steam was rolling out of the grill. I opened the hood and was shocked to see the radiator plug broken off and fluid spurting out. I had it towed home where I replaced the plug and fluid. When I fired it up it was making a pinging noise from exhaust leaking where the manifold meets the engine. Yep, warped heads. Now with that all fixed including thermostat replacement, she is still running too hot. If I'm driving with the AC cranked, the temp meter will hit the red. I can kill the AC and crank the heat which will reduce the water temp to normal. I've asked locally and was told it could be the radiator. Anyone else agree? All cooling fans are operating properly. If it is a poor radiator, I can replace it myself, but I'm not sure about how to bleed the transmission line that needs to be disconnected. Does anyone have a list of steps to replace the radiator?

  • d_rund_run Posts: 3
    I've read several messages that mention looking up a Disco by VIN to see if it has had services done. Is there a link for this, or do I just call the local LR dealer? Also, is there an online list of recalls? I'm trying to look up a 96' disco.

  • vdumasvdumas Posts: 14
    You can go to carfax and run the VIN, cost 25 bucks for a month I think and gives decent info... For service records, I believe the dealer can look them up.
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