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Land Rover Discovery and Discovery II



  • kemmonskemmons Posts: 29

    I'm looking at an RV that weighs 4,000 lbs. empty and understand my 97 SE to be able to pull 5,500 lbs, and was wondering how she's going to do on hilly terrain or if an RV close to her tow limit like that is going to stress the trans. I'd appreciate any advice from anybody.

    I also wanted to report my first Freelander sighting, and the steering wheel was on the right side, not the left. It had MI plates on it even. I didn't think they were on the road yet?!?!

    Thanks for any help offered.
  • tincup47tincup47 Posts: 1,508
    There are a number of RHD Freelanders that Ford has brought in to evaluate in the Michigan area. There are also a very few that have been brought in Grey market that individuals have somehow gotten certified for the US.
  • Hey Folks, I ordered an SE-7 and it's going to be in in a week. I originally test drove one in MO when my 2001 Jeep XJ transmission took its 3rd (and FINAL) dive and I gave up and left it behind to lemon-law it. I rented a 2001 LR SD in MO and was so impressed I ordered one from home (Colorado Springs). The one I test drove here was noticeably slower because of the altitude (6,000) and I was wondering if there are any mods like chips, exhaust and K&N bolt-ons that might help it a bit. Also, anyone have any tips/tricks for the first-time LR owner?!

    P.S> What is this "x-plan"? I was quoted $43,013.50 + taxes/tags for the car w/ cold climate, ACE, rear A/C, and lightstone. Also, front brush bar and Hella 5000's. Is this a good price or no?
  • hatton3hatton3 Posts: 13
    The manual transmission fitted to Discoveries since about 1995 is a 5 speed unit called R380. In the early days this tramsmission got a poor reputation because the end of the main shaft did not receive enough oil and failure was quite common. Even after modification problems were quite common on 75,000 plus mileage vehicles. After 1997 the R380 appears to be far more robust and the Disco Series 2 version had a number of minor tweaks to iron out some residual problems.
  • tincup47tincup47 Posts: 1,508
    Is a vehicle purchase plan for suppliers and partner organizations of Ford. It is a very good way to purchase Ford Products including Land Rovers. One organization that provides X-plan pricing to it's members is EAA (Experimental Aircraft Association). There are quite a few companies that do business with Ford that offer X-plan to their Employees, you may want to check with yours.
  • tincup47tincup47 Posts: 1,508
    All Discoverey Series II in the U.S. are automatics.
  • donelonpcdonelonpc Posts: 8
    I bought my first 2000 Disco II last year. You will love the truck. I would check the Edmunds cite for Disco II SE-7 models to see if the price you got was accurate under their TMV price. SE's TMV is about $35,000. So, your 6000 in options (third row seats and ACE) would put it about $41,000. At any rate, you'll love it. I have what would now be labeled an SE. If I had to do it over I would have gotten the ACE system. But, it handles just fine.
  • To give you an idea, I just bought a Disco II SE ACE, black, with ext. roof rails and rubber mats for $38,852. The brush guard would have been an extra $553, and I'm not sure the price of the Hella lamps.

    X-plan gets you 4% MSRP over invoice, plus 15% off on any accessories you buy. Great way to save.
  • Hi,

    I'm an avid cyclist - basically, I live my life around cycling. So, I need a rack system for my Disco II that is convenient to use and will look nice as well. As I am only 5'9, I am considering a Thule Swing Away hitch rack, but I think these types of racks are ughy. Anyone have any thoughts on going with a hitch rack verses roof top mounts?
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    Since I bought my Disco I've put 13,000+ miles on my mtn bike. I use a swing-away rear hitch mount or if it's just a couple of us going, and it's not too nasty out, I pop off the seat and front wheel and the bikes fit nicely (and securely) inside the back. It's easy to get 2 mtn bikes, helmets, water bottles, day packs, shoes, etc. etc. etc. in there. My road bike frame is longer, I'm not sure if it will fit inside. FWIW I'm 6'5" and ride an XL mtn bike frame, when the jump seats are folded up the inside fit is no problem.

    Regards, -Bob
  • c2soxc2sox Posts: 19
    I'm looking into purchasing my first Rover, but
    I really want is a Disco II TD5. Does anyone know if Land Rover ever plans on selling these models
    here in the US. Also does anyone know anybody who has imported a TD5 from UK?
  • tincup47tincup47 Posts: 1,508
    I can't say never, but Land Rover has no plans to import diesel engined vehicles in the forseeable future.
  • ffitzffitz Posts: 13
    Hello all! I have been lurking here for about 2 years. I was going to get a 99 DII in 99, but medical problems precluded my being able to purchase. Everything has worked out, and I am looking at a purchase (Blenheim Silver???)within the next 60 days. I have read of all the nuances with the DII, but have found no better vehicle to invest in. It is a solid vehicle (literally) driving a tank. I really do want to learn the full capabilities of this vehicle, as I am not an off-roader (yet). I am in Anchorage, Alaska. The dealership here is great and have answered 2years worth of questions for me. I am eagerly anticipating joining the Discovery family. I would like to thank everyone for their input (pos/neg)as all have been most helpful in my decision. This is a great board, and I hope that in the near future I will be able to contribute. Again, Thanks!
  • tincup47tincup47 Posts: 1,508
  • shap1shap1 Posts: 77
    Is there a switch or some sort of mechanism in the 2001 Discovery to disengage the passenger side airbag to allow a child to sit up front?

    I ask because this will affect whether I go with the SE or SE7. I will occasionally have four kids (ages 7 & 5) in the car. Don't relish the idea of putting them in the jump seats since they still need booster seats.
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    Yep you're in good hands with the boys at L-R Anchorage. I've taken my silver DI to Kent for warranty work from day one. Wallace gets a little cranky but he's a great guy, and very patient; he went The Extra Mile for me many many times. Yikes, this means there'll be THREE silver Discos in town?! What's the world coming to?!!!! Ah wait, only two silver DIs. Whew!

    If you really want to do some major offroading go see the guys at Northern 4X4, they know ALL the trails.

    Una inuq aaniqtuq, -Bob
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    "major offroading" -- you must be talking about the intersection at 15th and Cordova :-).

    Please keep us posted on the impending arrival, ffitz.

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  • tincup47tincup47 Posts: 1,508
    There is no switch available to disable the passenger airbag.
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    Boy ain't that the truth when the roads are polished ice in February! You're likely to go offroading backwards into that poor guy's yard. I wonder how many times he's replaced that fence?

    The guys at Northern 4X4 convoy up around Hatcher Pass and further, they've found some GNARLY rocky spots. You should see the "trophies" on the front counter... broken axles, hubs, U-joints... parts twisted in half... it hurts just to look at the wreckage.

    FWIW, they're getting interested in Pinzgauer and Series Rovers too... there's a great photo in there and they just ordered some elliptical springs for a guy's Series here in town. But for the most part they're hardcore Jeepers.
  • buroskyburosky Posts: 90
    Just wondering if this is normal or not. Everytime the earphones for the jump seats are used, it lessens the quality of the sound coming out of the speakers. It sounds like the bass goes away a little bit and the volume goes lower. As soon as the earphones are taken out, the sound quality goes back to normal. The sound is fuller, richer with the deep bass and treble. Too bad cause it's a great feature of the system that allows us to listen to the radio while my daughter listens to the CD. Now, I've asked my daughter not to use the earphones at all. If this is normal, is there something that can be done to eliminate the problem?
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Actually I was in town visiting last week and walked through that intersection heading over to pick up the '84 Volvo w/ 55k original miles on it that we borrowed to tool around in.

    Typical weather up there; winter is over and now it's time for the other season (construction ). If the pavement get any worse around town, Paisan's roads may have some serious competition.

    Looked like the LR dealer had more used stock on the lot than usual too.

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  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    You're the guy who was walking across the intersection? I came down Cordova street on my mtn bike, accelerating all the way from 9th avenue, and LAUNCHED off the sidewalk over that precipice... my tires narrowly missing some poor soul's ears. All he saw/heard was a crazed man on a red mtn bike going YAAAHHHOOOOOOooooooo..... as he (I) flew over and down.

    Not really... I didn't get THAT far off the ground. But I have given a few people cause for concern on that hill.

    Yep, the roads are a mite rough. When you see people hitting low range to cross an intersection then you've got to think about upping the maintenance budget.

    Too bad you're not here today, it's gorgeous!


    (hit refresh for updates)

  • ...and I ain't talkin' Doritos... Ok, this is getting critical. The top speed of my new '01 LR Disco westbound up the pass on I-70 toward Vail is 54 mph (in some spots) because of our altitude (11,237) and the inability to gain momentum because of valleys/hills/traffic. Hell, I was about to start throwing everything but the kids and the toupee` out the windows to lighten the drag.. Speed limit is 75 - my dying '88 Acura that I've had since 10th grade will still clear the summit at 95 in 4th... Please, if anyone has heard of altitude-compensation devices/chips WHATEVER it would be greatly appreciated, other than a 24"-tall Paxton R-635 supercharger sticking through the hood.. Dealer jokingly says other than a dual 3" exhaust with glasspacks and chromy tips (I don't think so) that I'm stuck with stock. I guess if I go that route the next thing will be a slammed suspension with a ground clearance of 2 inches, tires with an outside diameter of 6 inches (and width of 16 inches) and enough bass to make the leather fibrillate....

    Jeff in the trailer under the bridge in Vail, CO.
  • smokymansmokyman Posts: 12
    I live in the smoky mountains and just got my first used discovery. The repair log of the prev owner shows lots of brake pads and a few rotors. she must have lived close to me.
    My ? is would locking the diff help provide more resistance when downshifting for long hills? 2nd doesn't always slow me quite enough to keep from riding the brakes for 5 miles
    Also is it best to brake before exceeding 3500RPM r can you safely go higher?
  • mrtoad3mrtoad3 Posts: 68
    Burosky: The phenomenon you are inquiring about regarding the decreased bass response of the music when the headphones are plugged is actually the way it is designed. The owner's manual explains that the subwoofer disengages when the headphones are plugged in so the punch is gone. I guess this is so it doesn't interfere with the rear seat passengers who have the headphones on. Yet another unique feature we must contend with.
  • hatton3hatton3 Posts: 13
    I wouldn't engage diff lock on tarmac. You will scrub the tyres and could wind up the transmission. I suggest you engage low range gears and try a high gear - this will be lower than second high but higher than first high. Havinmg said that brake pads are a lot cheaper to replace than transmissions so dont be shy using the brakes to slow down where required.
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    First word of warning, these trucks EAT brake pads, so keep a close eye on them! I replaced my first front pair at 22k miles and I don't drive hills like those.

    I would definitely keep it below 4k rpm, I know the engine will begin to cut out from intrusion by the ECU when the RPMs get too high... but that's when under power. How will it prevent you from overreving on downhills? It can't. This is an engine you do NOT want to burn up!

    Locking the diff will have zero effect in slowing you down. It's a method to lock the front and back axles together offroad to prevent getting stuck by being cross-axled. Don't lock it onroad, even driving straight ahead; you can break expensive parts. Straight ahead: your front tires are inflated less than the rears, right? That gives lower ride height, smaller rolling diameter, faster rate of turn than the rears.

    One last warning: don't assume she'll ALWAYS downshift to slow you when you've got the RPMs way up. In the test procedures for after a trans rebuild one test is to select "2" at some ridiculous high speed, and the satisfactory result is to have her NOT engage 2nd (to protect from overrev). This is a smart transmission, she has some surprises.

    Best luck, -Bob
  • kemmonskemmons Posts: 29
    To anyone that might be able to help-

    We are looking into buying an RV and was wondering if anyone has experience towing and has a recommended weight limit. I know the limit stated in the manual, I'm looking for the voice of experience here. What is too much? Is 4,000 lbs. going to be a problem in hilly terrain?

    I appreciate the help.

  • smokymansmokyman Posts: 12
    Thanks for the responses
    Can I damage the tranny by riding down a long hill in a low gear if I don't over rev? Is this related to "spooling up" or "winding up" the transmition?
    Just riding the brakes isn't an option unless I want to replace rotors every week. They do heat up and warp from my wife's experience in 3 other vehicles.
    Also, any recomendations on repair manuals? (Chilton's the best?) I used to do a lot of work VW busses with a book titled " How to take your Volkswagen apart and put it together again for the complete Idiot".
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    I'd say if you take reasonable care of the trans (change the fluid every year and have the trans serviced NOW if it's never been done yet) you should never have any trouble with it, period. It's one tough transmission. I do the same with my swivels and diffs and the rest of the fluids too: oil's a lot cheaper than metal.

    As for manuals, I looked a long time and found the only manuals available for my '96 are the factory service manuals. They're spendy but well written. They can easily pay for themselves on your first service.

    Good on you, that you'll be doing your own work. Get to know your truck and you'll have few nasty surprises. You might start watching garage sales for BIG combination wrenches. Make sure they're not worn/spread, and watch for a good 1/2" drive socket wrench... you'll use that on your transfer case and diffs.

    Regards, -Bob
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