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Acura Integra Engine Questions



  • amy732amy732 Posts: 1
    my car was over heating a month ago, and it sat in my drive way like that up until 2 nights ago, we replaced the coolant line, put oil in it, anti freeze, transmission stop slip, radiator stop leak, and it sounded good in my drive way, idiling was low, not as much smoke in the back. we then took it for a test drive and sure enough it was over heating again. what else could it be. my water pump is fine
  • my car would not start or turn over so I checked the fuse#18 starter signal fuse it is hot but the wire to the starter was not so I ran a wire from fuse#18 to the starter and now it will turn over but no fuel to the injecters. so I checked the main fuel relay to see if the yellow/black wire had continuity and power to the pump it does untill you turn on the key thin it has no power or continuity to the pump. I can run a wire from the battery to the pump and here the pump working but no fuel to the engine. I know there is a fuel press. regulator control solenoid could that stop the fuel from reaching the injecters? I can spray starting fluid in the intake and it will start till the starter fluid runs out thin it stops. Thanks for any sugestions, Craig904
  • brettlbrettl Posts: 9
    How do you know that your water pump is fine? You don't mention as to whether or not you checked and/or replaced the engine coolant thermostat, or the engine coolant temperature sensor, which turns your cooling fan on and off, as needed. Did you hear your cooling fan running at all? Also, there are fuses and/or relays involved in the cooling fan circuit, as well as an 'after-run' timer I believe. Get yourself a service manual - they're only $25.00 and have all the info you'll need to solve this - Haynes part number 12021.
  • brettlbrettl Posts: 9
    Sounds to me as if the ECM or if equipped, your alarm, system might have set a DTC or disabled the starter and fuel circuits, respectively. If not, check your starter solenoid and/or relay, and ignition switch for getting current through to the solenoid. Just finished replacing the electrical part of the switch in a '92 Accord, as it was bad order just enough to disable the ignition system immediately on the return of the key to 'run' position after it started, of course causing it to quit.
    Just because you can hear the fuel pump MOTOR running, does not necessarily mean that the PUMP is working. Get yourself a service manual - it will have all the info that you'll need to solve this problem - they're only $25.00 - Haynes part # 12021. I've been troubleshooting my nephew's '90 hatchback for the past four years, but not familiar with the '93 particularly, but I've forty years experience as a back-alley mechanic, and find these manuals very helpful, if not a downright necessity. It'll tell you how to check fuel pressures and all sorts of other things 'on the cheap', and how to clear the DTC off the ECM after you pull any off, etc. All you have to do is be able to read and understand - teach yourself.
  • eroc1eroc1 Posts: 4
    I replaced the fuel pump 3 weeks ago, and the car failed yesterday. Turning over fine--no fuel from the filter being pumped--followed notes on checking relay--seems okay--clicking as described--check engin goes off and second click occurs as described. I have voltage, as described on the 1 and 2 ports on the relay with switch off--and voltage at 1, 2, and 5 with switch on. also have voltage at sending unit under rear seat. Must remove tank to check pump--but I feel it's getting power, but no "whizzing" of pump when switch is turned of, and definetly no fuel out of filter going to injectors. Can this pump REALLY have failed already? HELP????
  • hey i own a 97 acura integra rs and ive been having an odd problem lately. usually im pretty good with mechanics but not this time around. the cars a 5 spd. and wen im in a lower rpm in a higher gear and i really get on it it sputters. the only way it doesnt do this is if i drive it like a grandpa. its only when i get on it that it sputters and shakes a little and has trouble gettin up to speed. everyone tells me its a fuel problem but i need expert help
  • i have a 94 integra ls 5 speed an just recently it has started hesitating and jerking and its getting progressively worse. I think it might be an engine problem but im not sure.
  • lodewickuslodewickus Posts: 2
    '90 B18A1

    Last year I ran the car out of fuel by mistake since my fuel gauge needle was broken and not giving the correct indication to the fuel level.

    Since then I've had other issues such as a cracked heat gasket where I had the block swapped out for a 'new' one. I figured the problems with the car would be resolved with this, which it was, until I got the fuel tank to half, at which point the car would nearly die when coming to a stop and idling. Starting is fine, driving is fine, idling itself is somewhat OK (it bounces between 600-750), but the problem comes up with coming to a complete stop. It's almost as if the fuel injection is forced to kick in to get fuel in to the engine.

    The other issue since this occurrance is that the engine light would pop up and I'm getting a 43 on the ECU. At first I figured it'd be an issue with the new resonator and extractors I had put on, but then remembered I had this issue last year already before the new resonator and extractors. If I pull over, turn off the engine then back on, the light goes away but comes back on after cruising for a while again.

    The engine light will pop up when cruising at a set RPM (3k about, no matter the gear), but driving randomly (city driving) it doesn't come on at all. The idling to near death coming to halt doesn't happen unless the fuel tank is half full.

    I have a strong feeling that I have the original O2 sensor (car has less than 100k miles, new engine is 30k), so that'd probably need to be replaced, but I am sure that this is not causing the idling issue.

    Any ideas would be most appreciated!
  • lodewickuslodewickus Posts: 2
    I had the same issue before changing my block since I left the problem for too long.

    My issue was I had a crack in the heat gasket between the block and head, which caused coolant to flow in to the engine. The more coolant that got in there, the worse it got.

    You can check this by looking at the spark-plugs. If the dirt on them looks like foam/white fluid, this is it.

    It can also be the fuel pump on its way out, you'd need to check the fuel pressure and see if what the values are against what you'd expect the values to be.
  • brettlbrettl Posts: 9
    Sounds like you've got a fuel delivery problem, alright. First, check your fuel lines from tank to underhood to be sure there are no kinks/squashes in it, and consider changing out the fuel filter unless its already been done recently, for all they're worth. If you don't already have a service manual, I strongly suggest you get one - Haynes #12021 for about $25.00 - it'll be a hell of a help, and it'll pay for itself the very first time you use it, by preventing your making silly mistakes by not having the knowledge you need beforehand. After you get the manual for the applicable info, check your fuel pressure, pressure regulator and O2 sensor, all of which you'll be able to do yourself with the proper info.
    And it sounds to me like your IAC and FITV need some attention to fix your idling/near-stalling situation; I'd suggest that you do this right after checking your fuel lines and changing the filter, then check out the other stuff, because if the lines are okay, this might be the primary cause of it not running properly thru all rpm ranges; I don't think that getting down to or below a half-tank of fuel has much to do with it. For info on this that you can probably do yourself, go to

    Good luck. Give'er a try.

  • skriballaskriballa Posts: 1
    :sick: Im looking for a replacement engine for my 2000 Acura Intega; 1.8L 4-cyl. engine; automatic transmission. It started overheating; and i had it checked out here in orlandothey said the head gasket was blown so much that it now needs another engine. They said they can replace the engine with a new one for $2400 Should I look at replacing the engine? whats the cheapest alternative here?
  • I've owned my 1991 Acura Integra for about a year now. One previous owner, only 132k miles to date.

    I'm trying to brainstorm my solution without having to just hand the car over to a mechanic's mercy. Here are two issues. Please reply if you have any suggestions or, more specifically, you know of an experience related to these symptoms. Long read ahead.

    I'm having an issue with the idling, almost like it idles too low. Less than 1000rpm. The only time this issue has raised concern is when I occasionally have a backfire from starting the engine and the rpms don't stay high enough and the engine dies and I have to turn the ignition again after about 30-60sec.

    Thats my minor issue.

    The larger one I'm having is my radiator using up coolant at a much faster rate. I've only had one overheat with this vehicle, and in that case the radiator was almost empty, but not bone dry. I'm not sure when/if the thermostat has been replaced or if the thermostat was compromised in the process. Also, the fans in the front seem to only turn on after the point of exceeded the half mark on the gauge in the dashboard, which it rarely does exceed the half mark. I discovered the reservoir does have a small leak in it.

    I wanted to assume either the thermostat needs replacing, as well as the reservoir, at the least. I also considered perhaps the fans aren't working properly as far as when to kick in.

    Although the gauge hasn't exceeded the half mark again, I sometimes smell coolant just around the outside of the car after it's been used (30min+ driving). And randomly I see light white smoke/steam, also smelling like coolant, exiting the exhaust. But this happens only on start up after being parked 6-8 hours at work/home.
  • hello:

    I am on my 3rd 1990-92 Integra. Mine idles at a consent 750, never any issues with backfire.

    As far as the coolant, sounds like a head gasket to me. We did have a GSR that belched alot of white smoke, had a rip off CT Acura dealer take the engine apart, they stated it was the pistons(it was not, they were not fouled or damaged in any way) sealed it back up at a cost of 3000 and then there was head gasket issues, another 1000.

    The alternate cooling fan some times turns on my car in the winter, was told there is a sensor for that fan that if it senses a certain temp will run till its cooled past the sensor trip, otherwise unless its really hot rarely get the fan running.

    I have found that the computer located under the passengers foot panel, can be the cause of many hit and miss problems. Also check your grounds, which can cause issues if they are no longer attached or corroded over. Can be purchased off ebay, pretty cheap too, just make sure to look at the model number of the one you currently own.

    There are CD manuals avail on ebay, cheap too. If you cannot find one send me a email and I will copy mine and send to you.

    If you ever get the check engine light turning on and not extinguishing and not allowing you to start the car, that is a definite sign of a bad computer, do not chip it or have some Acura repair shop tell you that they can increase your performance, just get the OEM and you will be good to go.

    There are Acura clubs you can contact too that have good info. On my other computer, so contact me back if you need more info.

    good luck. I am going to start looking for another, mine has 94k on it, getting harder and harder to find ones in good shape.
  • i have a 2001 integra standard and when i shift from 2nd to 3rd and in 3rd it starts to shake, but does not happen in otha gears so it cant b the tire alignment. can someone plz help!
  • Thats a new one. I assume you mean the body of the car vibrates. I have had 3 1990-91 teg's and have never had that issue. Did you get the wheels balanced and have you made sure the balance "leads" have not dropped off?

    Is it always at a certain speed? Only when shifting or does it happen when applying brakes? If when hitting brakes make be one of the rods are bent.

    good luck. jeffreyc42
  • Hello All,

    I have the following error codes showing up on my 1999 Acura Integra:

    PO301B, PO302B, PO300B, PO304 = Cylinder misfires.

    and MFR P1399 = what is this???

    Does anyone know what could be causing this?

    Any help is appreciated!!!
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